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Crystalalan

flipping hydrophobic glass!



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Crystalalan

Hi everyone.

 

Been waterfed poleing for 3 months now but still can`t quite get the hang of successfully cleaning hydrophobic glass. Still getting white spots. It`s driving me mad. I use a 35cm flocked gardiner brush with 4 x 1.4 ml pencil jets and a flow rate set at 25. I`m rinsing very thoroughly. Was thinking about getting some 50 degree fan jets do you reckon that would do the trick? I don`t want to resort to tradding them

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Part Timer

My flow rate is 35 with the same size and amount of jets. Don't get any problems

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Nudel

I prefer four 100 degree fan jets on hydrophobic windows.

I mostly rinse on, making a nice sheet and bring the water with me down.

 

Pencil jets can due to the nature of the spray push contaminants upwards if you don't start properly.

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Pjj

I dint think fan jets will make any difference, good scrub especially the frames and closers at the top then rinse the top frame then re clean glass then just rinse glass without causing any splashes on the frames or walls should be ok 👍

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Crystalalan
1 minute ago, Part Timer said:

My flow rate is 35 with the same size and amount of jets. Don't get any problems

Cheers part timer. Will give it a shot

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scottish cleaning service
3 minutes ago, Crystalalan said:

Hi everyone.

 

Been waterfed poleing for 3 months now but still can`t quite get the hang of successfully cleaning hydrophobic glass. Still getting white spots. It`s driving me mad. I use a 35cm flocked gardiner brush with 4 x 1.4 ml pencil jets and a flow rate set at 25. I`m rinsing very thoroughly. Was thinking about getting some 50 degree fan jets do you reckon that would do the trick? I don`t want to resort to tradding them

 

I have 4 50% fan jets and I think they are great for rinsing, much better than 1.4mm jets as I have both. You should be set at 1.8 lpm or less if it suits.

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Crystalalan

Cheers lads. Am gonna try upping my flow rate first

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Davy G

Just to throw some confusion into the issue. I swear by 100 degree fan jets.

 

Couple of swipes across the sill. Couple of swipes across the top frame

Agitate vertically on the side frames and glass with slightly overlapping strokes to loosen the dirt. Couple of fast sweeps across the top of the glass to build a head of water. Rinse on the glass. Bring it down quickly as a continuous curtain of water the full width of the glass.

 

Light and quick does it. No scrubbing unless there's obvious ingrained dirt ie bird or spider muck. No need to kill the brush. I get ages out of the brushes.

Rinse on. Finish with a couple of sweeps across the sill. 20 - 30 seconds on average size window.

Very rarely a problem. Same technique on every type of window and glass.

 

What I see with several other wcs near me : too much scrubbing and faffing about.

Edited by Davy G

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Marko067
2 hours ago, Davy G said:

Just to throw some confusion into the issue. I swear by 100 degree fan jets.

 

Couple of swipes across the sill. Couple of swipes across the top frame

Agitate vertically on the side frames and glass with slightly overlapping strokes to loosen the dirt. Couple of fast sweeps across the top of the glass to build a head of water. Rinse on the glass. Bring it down quickly as a continuous curtain of water the full width of the glass.

 

Light and quick does it. No scrubbing unless there's obvious ingrained dirt ie bird or spider muck. No need to kill the brush. I get ages out of the brushes.

Rinse on. Finish with a couple of sweeps across the sill. 20 - 30 seconds on average size window.

Very rarely a problem. Same technique on every type of window and glass.

 

What I see with several other wcs near me : too much scrubbing and faffing about.


This is my experience as well

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Iron Giant
13 hours ago, Crystalalan said:

Still getting white spots.


Are the frames not old and is the water not running white from the frames, sounds like old frames as only this would cause white spots 

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Stevieboy
13 hours ago, Crystalalan said:

Cheers lads. Am gonna try upping my flow rate first

Just beware of bounce back. Not always the answer upping the flow. I agree with Davy G. Don’t faff. Don’t start on sill first though this will just load the brush with rubbish. 

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Davy G
12 hours ago, Stevieboy said:

Just beware of bounce back. Not always the answer upping the flow. I agree with Davy G. Don’t faff. Don’t start on sill first though this will just load the brush with rubbish. 

Starting with a couple of swipes across the sill before doing the window is an important and successful part of my technique.

 

Reason : The sill is almost always the dirtiest part of the unit. The couple of initial swipes breaks through the crust and allows the water to start loosening the dirt. Then, on to the window as I've described. Finish on the sill, where some of the dirt will have been loosened by the first swipes and the water having had a few seconds to soak in.

Makes no difference if dirt is loaded onto the brush, it will soon wash out and is easily brought down. If the sill is left entirely till last it will likely be passed on to the next window anyway. 🙂

Edited by Davy G

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Crystalalan
12 hours ago, Iron Giant said:


Are the frames not old and is the water not running white from the frames, sounds like old frames as only this would cause white spots 

no the frames are in good order and are scrubbed in advance

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Bart90
44 minutes ago, Crystalalan said:

no the frames are in good order and are scrubbed in advance

Is the spotting random or is it in vertical lines from the top?

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Crystalalan
14 minutes ago, Bart90 said:

Is the spotting random or is it in vertical lines from the top?

well abit of both but mostly vertical lines from the top. It looks terrible in the sunlight

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scottish cleaning service

I offered to do the windows upstairs from me but the windy came back again. He uses a wfp and I have noticed marks on my windows from it. So I now realise that it does leave marks on glass below so my complainers do have a point. 😊

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Bart90
12 minutes ago, Crystalalan said:

well abit of both but mostly vertical lines from the top. It looks terrible in the sunlight

Avoid cleaning the top frame and use the brush to "cut in" just below the top seal. I have found almost without exception, on new or old windows, that any protruding seals will bleed spots in vertical lines.  It will happen on hydrophobic and hydrophillic but more problematic on the former.  If seals are recessed behind the frame or enough to be tucked away then you won't get issues.  

 

If they are compartment type windows (one above, one below) then you have two options.  Option 1 is to cut in and wait for the drips to stop dripping on the lower compartment then cut in again (doable on a hot day as it doesn't take too long).  Option 2 which is my go to is to wrap a microfibre around a super scraper and hold it on with a cheap clamp from poundland.  Then i can physically dry any top seals that bleed out before cleaning the glass below. A pain and takes a bit more time but gets a decent result for the customer.

Edited by Bart90

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Crystalalan

Well it only seems to happen on hrdrophobic glass. Cheers will give it a try but I thought it was always best to clean the whole frame first

 

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NoName
On 12/02/2020 at 20:38, scottish cleaning service said:

I offered to do the windows upstairs from me but the windy came back again. He uses a wfp and I have noticed marks on my windows from it. So I now realise that it does leave marks on glass below so my complainers do have a point. 😊

 

You should ask him to clean yours! Classic windie getting another windie to clean his own windows - do it!

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Crystalalan

Alright lads tried the upping my flow rate to 35 idea. Not sure what the results are like yet. Gonna try out the 50 degree fan jets next.

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