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Hot hot hot ???

Pjj

Premium Member
Messages
13,421
Location
Cornwall
Well today was the first day using hot water for  a week after boiler blowing up , I hate cold water !,, today  the seagulls poo came off so much quicker and easier and I was back to my old speed , I did a load of house from 8:15 to 12:30 ,then decided to do a small industrial building clean the tank had roughly 600 ltr of water in it and one hose reel had been returning to the tank with hot water all morning , the water did seam quite hot but I thought nothing of it , about half way through the building clean I started getting tones of steam coming off the cladding and the pole was a job to hold as it was so hot looked like I was using a doff not wfp ??? ,I checked the temperature of the water at the jets with about 40 meters of hose out and it was reading 82:6 degrees, I thought this must be wrong so got out another TDS meter and that said 82:2 so I then took the temperature of the water in the tank and that was 68:7 degrees , it was so hot had to turn the boiler off , then the hose going to the jets on the brush on one jet broke , it had gone Brittle with the heat so had to replace it , it’s an old brush but the hose wasn’t that old as I had replaced it after a softwashing job . I don’t know why it was so hot unless the old boiler wasn’t getting as hot due to it being knackered , so I phoned the guy who did the boiler repair and told him he laughed and said I have been working on theses things for 30 years and know how to get the best out of them , he wouldn’t say what he had done but said it will get a lot hotter than before just turn it down on the heat exchangers , I was concerned that it would shorten the life of the new burner and housing and he assured me it won’t , he did say that mine was the worst damaged boiler he had ever seen , but said that it’s nice to see something that’s used as it’s intended to be used , he said the was no coking up at all just heat damage to the burner housing , the computer diagnostics thing showed over 12600 hours run time , he said he was surprised it had lasted as long as it had and that it was still running with the amount of damage done to the internal Chainbure the inlet hole should  be the size of your little finger and it was well over an inch wide , I have no idear why but the new casing  feels a lot cooler than the old one but the water is a lot hotter . Hears hoping fir another 6:5 years trouble free hot water . 

 
Well today was the first day using hot water for  a week after boiler blowing up , I hate cold water !,, today  the seagulls poo came off so much quicker and easier and I was back to my old speed , I did a load of house from 8:15 to 12:30 ,then decided to do a small industrial building clean the tank had roughly 600 ltr of water in it and one hose reel had been returning to the tank with hot water all morning , the water did seam quite hot but I thought nothing of it , about half way through the building clean I started getting tones of steam coming off the cladding and the pole was a job to hold as it was so hot looked like I was using a doff not wfp ??? ,I checked the temperature of the water at the jets with about 40 meters of hose out and it was reading 82:6 degrees, I thought this must be wrong so got out another TDS meter and that said 82:2 so I then took the temperature of the water in the tank and that was 68:7 degrees , it was so hot had to turn the boiler off , then the hose going to the jets on the brush on one jet broke , it had gone Brittle with the heat so had to replace it , it’s an old brush but the hose wasn’t that old as I had replaced it after a softwashing job . I don’t know why it was so hot unless the old boiler wasn’t getting as hot due to it being knackered , so I phoned the guy who did the boiler repair and told him he laughed and said I have been working on theses things for 30 years and know how to get the best out of them , he wouldn’t say what he had done but said it will get a lot hotter than before just turn it down on the heat exchangers , I was concerned that it would shorten the life of the new burner and housing and he assured me it won’t , he did say that mine was the worst damaged boiler he had ever seen , but said that it’s nice to see something that’s used as it’s intended to be used , he said the was no coking up at all just heat damage to the burner housing , the computer diagnostics thing showed over 12600 hours run time , he said he was surprised it had lasted as long as it had and that it was still running with the amount of damage done to the internal Chainbure the inlet hole should  be the size of your little finger and it was well over an inch wide , I have no idear why but the new casing  feels a lot cooler than the old one but the water is a lot hotter . Hears hoping fir another 6:5 years trouble free hot water . 
Do you know what they had to replace? I'm gathering that it's run on ordinary road diesel. If so then that could explain the longevity.

 
Well with specs. A similar water to water heat exchanger specs: Maximum design pressure of 30 bar and maximum operating temperature of 200°c
We have those sandwich heat exchangers in our Vokera boilers and blew them every two years because of our mains pressure about 10bar. We should have fitted an outside pressure vessel but we ended up buying a German boiler which had a cylindrical heat exchanger. Good to know the temp has no effect on them and there's little pressure to worry about.

 
Do you know what they had to replace? I'm gathering that it's run on ordinary road diesel. If so then that could explain the longevity.
The screen pin and the main boiler housing were all replaced along with the water pump , yes always run on white road diesel sometimes on shell v power don’t know if the boiler workers better on that but the engine in the van loves  the stuff ??

I hope your heat exchangers don't burn out as they will be running near 85 degrees!
85 degrees isn’t a problem for the heat exchangers they are designed for a lot higher temperatures . 

 
Are you going to get it serviced now or go for a new record (13,000 hrs) ?
No John said there is nothing to service if it’s running fine leave it alone , he could easily say it needs servicing every year and charge me fir doing si but he said it’s a waist of time , it’s 6;5 years old if I had it services each year I would probably have spent in the region of £1200 at least , I have been more than happy with it over that time and won’t be changing anything I do with it . He showed me the fuel filter in the pump it was as clean as a new pin . I assume the reason for that is it’s plumbed into the fuel return to the tank so it’s using filtered fuel . 

 
Hi @Pjj. Please may I ask you to ask your mechanic a question. Ionics add a control switch into their heaters as a summer and winter setting. 

I see on the specs that on some of those T90 boilers there are 3 heat modes. My understanding is that these different heat settings are controlled via the purple wire which other suppliers cut off.

One heat mode is the purple wire isn't connected to anything.

The second hear mode has the purple wire grounded which I think is what Ionics do this with that on off switch.

The third heat mode is to connect that purple wire to a positive power supply.

There is also a brown wire in the harness that concerns me as it could have a role to play here.

As you have a good relationship with your mechanic I hoped you could ask him to clarify this.

Thanks for any help. It would be much appreciated.

 
Hi @Pjj. Please may I ask you to ask your mechanic a question. Ionics add a control switch into their heaters as a summer and winter setting. 

I see on the specs that on some of those T90 boilers there are 3 heat modes. My understanding is that these different heat settings are controlled via the purple wire which other suppliers cut off.

One heat mode is the purple wire isn't connected to anything.

The second hear mode has the purple wire grounded which I think is what Ionics do this with that on off switch.

The third heat mode is to connect that purple wire to a positive power supply.

There is also a brown wire in the harness that concerns me as it could have a role to play here.

As you have a good relationship with your mechanic I hoped you could ask him to clarify this.

Thanks for any help. It would be much appreciated.
Hi @spruce leave it with me I will ask him , my van has a Grippatank boiler added , but I  also  have Thermopure In another van so will look at that later and see how that’s wired up if that helps as well 

 
glad you ve got it up and running again mate...how much did it cost you?£500-£600?so new screen,pin and boiler housing and new water pump?

82c seems way too hot to me...was that at brush end too?you ll be increasing the risk of breaking glass for sure at those temperatures even in the summer months i would of thought......have you managed to turn it down a bit?

mine gets up to 60c at brush end during warmer days (like last week)which is plenty hot enough......in winter it can be as low as 30c on a cold morning with 100m of hose out which is fine by me as i dont want to crack any glass.....

 
I've been using my 2k immersion heater, had 48c you do see difference in cleaning muck off. Worked with cold yesterday,nasty cold water. One day might get a proper heater installed.

 
Hi @Pjj. Please may I ask you to ask your mechanic a question. Ionics add a control switch into their heaters as a summer and winter setting. 

I see on the specs that on some of those T90 boilers there are 3 heat modes. My understanding is that these different heat settings are controlled via the purple wire which other suppliers cut off.

One heat mode is the purple wire isn't connected to anything.

The second hear mode has the purple wire grounded which I think is what Ionics do this with that on off switch.

The third heat mode is to connect that purple wire to a positive power supply.

There is also a brown wire in the harness that concerns me as it could have a role to play here.

As you have a good relationship with your mechanic I hoped you could ask him to clarify this.

Thanks for any help. It would be much appreciated.
Hi @spruce I haven’t spoken to mark or John yet but I have looked at my van it’s got a 1000 ltr ionics pro 5 with a Grippatank 9kw boiler on it , the purple wire goes into the boiler ecu and goes to the back of the van to the controllers it’s a live feed and acts as an on off feed to turn the boiler on and off .see the pictures it’s a bit difficult to see but hope it’s helpful , you can also see the new burner Chainbure on the right , to keep it separate I’ll post a separate picture of the thermopure 

7245A714-E528-4045-9F0A-DE9E1711852F.jpeg

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Hi @spruce the thermopure is typical ionics they have spliced the wiring loom from the wabasto to there own wiring and dine it with shrink wrap so you cannot trace  the wires yourself unless you are an electrician they use all red cabling see the pictures below , the ionics boiler is a wabasto thermo 90 s what ever that might be it’s an older model than mine , Ime no expert with theses things but they are quite simple according to my mates ??, hope this makes sense any questions not to complicated just ask ???just remember I don’t have your vast knowledge ???

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E991BEBC-DF78-41CE-9F12-D522B5DB7FA9.jpeg

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glad you ve got it up and running again mate...how much did it cost you?£500-£600?so new screen,pin and boiler housing and new water pump?

82c seems way too hot to me...was that at brush end too?you ll be increasing the risk of breaking glass for sure at those temperatures even in the summer months i would of thought......have you managed to turn it down a bit?

mine gets up to 60c at brush end during warmer days (like last week)which is plenty hot enough......in winter it can be as low as 30c on a cold morning with 100m of hose out which is fine by me as i dont want to crack any glass.....
Haven’t got the bill yet ??? will let yah know once I get it , we do a lot of very large commercial building  cleans for  that the hotter the water the better , I did use it that temperature on the windows and didn’t get so much as a creek from any but wouldn’t usually use it that hot for  glass normally yes that temperature was at the brush head with 40 meters of hose out , I have never seen so much steam ??? turned it down today to about 50 as that was hot enough turned it off by lunch time and used the hot from the tank 

 
I've been using my 2k immersion heater, had 48c you do see difference in cleaning muck off. Worked with cold yesterday,nasty cold water. One day might get a proper heater installed.
Proper heater? ? Is there a difference with the heat quality depending on how it's produced? ?I didn't realise that, mind I did leave school at fourteen so I probably missed that science lesson?.

I've been using a 2kw immersion for two or three years now. It heats the water in the tank to about 65 degrees, the same temperature as a domestic hot water supply and loses no more than 5-10 degrees in a working day because the 650 Wyedale flat tank is very well insulated. The initial installation cost was less than £100 with the cable, plug and tank insulation. The electricity cost is less than £3 for each working day. I had to replace the immersion In January at a cost of £45.94 Inc postage. 30 minutes DIY.

By my reckoning an equipment cost of about £30 - £50 per annum. Running cost of less than £3 per day. No fumes, no flames, no need for third party servicing or repairs. If it's good enough for Squeeky Clean Dave It'll do for me. ?

 
Hi @spruce the thermopure is typical ionics they have spliced the wiring loom from the wabasto to there own wiring and dine it with shrink wrap so you cannot trace  the wires yourself unless you are an electrician they use all red cabling see the pictures below , the ionics boiler is a wabasto thermo 90 s what ever that might be it’s an older model than mine , Ime no expert with theses things but they are quite simple according to my mates ??, hope this makes sense any questions not to complicated just ask ???just remember I don’t have your vast knowledge ???

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? I guess it protecting their 'secretes'. Thank you so much for looking. Its much appreciated.

 
Proper heater? ? Is there a difference with the heat quality depending on how it's produced? ?I didn't realise that, mind I did leave school at fourteen so I probably missed that science lesson?.

I've been using a 2kw immersion for two or three years now. It heats the water in the tank to about 65 degrees, the same temperature as a domestic hot water supply and loses no more than 5-10 degrees in a working day because the 650 Wyedale flat tank is very well insulated. The initial installation cost was less than £100 with the cable, plug and tank insulation. The electricity cost is less than £3 for each working day. I had to replace the immersion In January at a cost of £45.94 Inc postage. 30 minutes DIY.

By my reckoning an equipment cost of about £30 - £50 per annum. Running cost of less than £3 per day. No fumes, no flames, no need for third party servicing or repairs. If it's good enough for Squeeky Clean Dave It'll do for me. ?
If I didn’t have the diesel, heaters I would have gone down the immersion route ,  we do  a lot of commercial building cleaning where we empty the tank in a morning of 1000 ltr and fill up on site so we couldn’t then heat the water using immersion heater , but for  someone who wants warm water on a budget I think it’s a good idear  , I am sceptical about how long the tank will retain  the heat the less water  in it the quicker it will cool , but with a couple of inches of kingspan  it should help keep  it hot where most heat is lost and it’s difficult to insulate is under the tank it will loose heat rapidly into the floor of the van and the cold water will all be at the bottom of the tank as hot water rises where do we take the water from on our tanks right at the bottom so we are using colder water than we think , this is ware the diesel heaters come into there own as the wager is heated just before it goes into the hose reel and as such is far hotter than using the water from the tank , any heat at all is good and makes cleaning quicker and a better clean as well from several years of experimenting I personally feel water between 50-60 degrees at the brush head is the optimum temperature to clean glass  fast , we get loads of baked in seagull poo last week when using cold it was a nightmare I was 10 houses down in just one day , now with the hot back ul and running Ime back to normal speed , I could never go back to cold water , I do   accept that a lot of our our work is costal  and covered in salt and bird poo and bee pollen , hot removes this so much quicker . 

 
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