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What is going on with my TDS?


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Posted (edited)

Hi guys. Hope everybody is good. I have a Pure Freedom van system and I've just changed my RO membrane for the first time after 2 years. I've put in a Axeon HF5. The TDS coming from the tap is around 350ppm with around 50/60psi. I've just flushed it for the first time for about an hour then switched to producing pure but it's only bringing it down to around 55ppm before it hits the resin! Surely it should be bringing it down to around 7ppm? Again it's a brand new membrane. Sediment filters are also brand new but I know that shouldn't make any difference to the RO output. 

Is there a settling in period or should it 'work' instantly? I know my PSI from the tap isn't the greatest but it should still be working better than that? I'm baffled.

Edited by Suhrly
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Just an update, for anyone who's interested and for future curiosity. I got my Calibration solution in the post so I tested my (decent) handheld TDS meter. It was off by at least 14ppm! So I re-calibr

Sediment first, c/b second. 50 psi w/p is enough for an HF5 membrane.

I wonder how they know the fluid is correct, do they calibrate the calibration fluid?

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5 minutes ago, Part Timer said:

I would flush the membrane longer and I don't know if an HF5 is suitable with water pressure around that figure. @spruce or @doug atkinson know far more than me.

The HF5 is the membrane suited to the lower pressure @Part Timer

I'll try and flush it some more but not sure how much longer?

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6 minutes ago, Suhrly said:

The HF5 is the membrane suited to the lower pressure @Part Timer

I'll try and flush it some more but not sure how much longer?

On this thread they reckon flushing for at least 2 hours

 

 

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31 minutes ago, Part Timer said:

On this thread they reckon flushing for at least 2 hours

 

 

Thanks mate 👍 quick question.....I don't think it does but just incase...does it matter which way around you have the pre-filter sediment filters? 

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2 minutes ago, Suhrly said:

Thanks mate 👍 quick question.....I don't think it does but just incase...does it matter which way around you have the pre-filter sediment filters? 

Sediment first, c/b second. 50 psi w/p is enough for an HF5 membrane.

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1 minute ago, spruce said:

Sediment first, c/b second. 50 psi w/p is enough for an HF5 membrane.

Thanks @spruce Yeah that's what mine is so all good there just checking. It's on flushing again so gonna give it another hour or so and see if that helps. I've just read it can take a couple of days for it to settle down 😕

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doug atkinson

When building systems it takes around 5/6 hours of flush to get the results we require. Have you put the membrane in the right way?

If you hold pure and waste hoses together which has more flow?

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8 minutes ago, Suhrly said:

Thanks mate 👍 quick question.....I don't think it does but just incase...does it matter which way around you have the pre-filter sediment filters? 

The pro's are involved now I'll take a back seat :2_thumbs_up_-_animated:

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Posted (edited)
42 minutes ago, Suhrly said:

Thanks @spruce Yeah that's what mine is so all good there just checking. It's on flushing again so gonna give it another hour or so and see if that helps. I've just read it can take a couple of days for it to settle down 😕

Instructions to replace membrane for Champ housing. Same principle for other housings.

Remove the end cap from the feed end (the end with only one port) – this is achieved by pulling on the white tab which will remove the white holding ring.  The end cap can now easily be removed.  Remove the membrane from its packaging.  Insert the membrane into the  housing with the black brine seal at the feed end (ie feed the membrane in with the brine seal end going in last).  Push the membrane firmly to ensure it is fully inserted.  Push in the end cap, again ensure it is fully inserted to reveal the holding ring groove.  Replace the holding ring.
 

Edited by spruce
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3 minutes ago, doug atkinson said:

When building systems it takes around 5/6 hours of flush to get the results we require. Have you put the membrane in the right way?

If you hold pure and waste hoses together which has more flow?

I'm pretty sure I have @doug atkinson. The previous filter was an Axeon HF4 and when I took it out I made sure which end was which and replaced new one the same. I have a Pure Freedom van system so I can't compare directly like that but I believe it's set up to be 50/50 

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2 minutes ago, spruce said:

Instructions to repalce membrane for Champ housing. Same principle for other housings.

Remove the end cap from the feed end (the end with only one port) – this is achieved by pulling on the white tab which will remove the white holding ring.  The end cap can now easily be removed.  Remove the membrane from its packaging.  Insert the membrane into the  housing with the black brine seal at the feed end (ie feed the membrane in with the brine seal end going in last).  Push the membrane firmly to ensure it is fully inserted.  Push in the end cap, again ensure it is fully inserted to reveal the holding ring groove.  Replace the holding ring.
 

Mine is a Pure Freedom van system @spruce so the RO housing is a stainless steel 40" one. Just a case of taking the lid off and pulling out the old, replace, insert new one and lid back on.

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doug atkinson
20 minutes ago, Suhrly said:

I'm pretty sure I have @doug atkinson. The previous filter was an Axeon HF4 and when I took it out I made sure which end was which and replaced new one the same. I have a Pure Freedom van system so I can't compare directly like that but I believe it's set up to be 50/50 

Hold both the pure and waste together as this can tell a lot of things. Or time how long it takes to fill a litre jug

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Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, doug atkinson said:

Hold both the pure and waste together as this can tell a lot of things. Or time how long it takes to fill a litre jug

I can't @doug atkinson cos the way my van system is setup the pure pipe is fixed down into my tank and the waste pipe is routed out of the back of the van.

Edited by Suhrly
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doug atkinson

As above measure from waste van port and inlet into DI Vessel. This is always key to measure it as if set incorrect will damage the membrane. It will also show if your membrane is not seated correctly.

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Right I think I might have come across something. On the Pure Freedom van system the waste tap is seated right underneath the RO housing. When I first got my van back from Pure Freedom a couple years ago, the guy said I only had to worry about one thing in regards to flushing and making pure water. He said to make pure water, make sure the tap is ALL THE WAY CLOSED TIGHT. Then it will start to produce pure. Fair enough. And he said to flush it, open it all the way. Again, easy enough. So tonight I've been experimenting a little bit and while it's been closed (producing pure) I've actually turned it open a little bit so it's not closed completely TIGHT. The pressure drops and it starts to produce more waste, obviously. I then noticed the TDS starting to drop down. Now, when I first changed my RO membrane today my tap TDS was 350ppm. Later on in the day it dropped to 70ppm coming from the tap (my TDS fluctuates WILDLY every day!). While it was at 70ppm the RO was bring it down to 4ppm. When I opened the tap a little more it went down to 3ppm. I also noticed there was a drip coming from the waste tap so the nut has worked its way loose. I've tightened that up.

@Part Timer I know you have a Pure Freedom van system what do you do in regards with the tap? Where do you have it 'set' when producing pure? As tight as it'll go or do you back it off a touch? 

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Posted (edited)

Closed fully to produce and open fully to flush, I'm on my 2nd system and have done this on both systems. The original Van's membrane is over 6 years old and is still producing, when required, efficiently.

Edited by Part Timer
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Posted (edited)
13 minutes ago, Part Timer said:

Closed fully to produce and open fully to flush, I'm on my 2nd system and have done this on both systems. The original Van's membrane is over 6 years old and is still producing, when required, efficiently.

Do you close it as tight as it'll go or just 'loosely' close it? What is your TDS coming out ya tap and what does the RO bring it down to just out of curiosity? 

Edited by Suhrly
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Tight, tap TDS tends to be between low 200's and low 300's, usually at the higher end. R/O, with pressure boosted to 100psi, brings it down to between 7 and 11

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