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Booster Pump for RO unit


The Spotless Group

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The Spotless Group

Hi guys,

I have an old Merlin 720p RO unit and I'm going to get a booster pump to increase pressure going into the unit. Can anyone recommend one that they think would work well? Thanks.

Josh

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1 hour ago, The Spotless Group said:

Hi guys,

I have an old Merlin 720p RO unit and I'm going to get a booster pump to increase pressure going into the unit. Can anyone recommend one that they think would work well? Thanks.

Josh

I'm very happy with the one I use from Streamline. I'm on my second motor in six years. I get six to twelve months out of a brass pump. Five minute job to change it. The brass pumps come at different output ratings depending on the RO system. I don't know whether that's good or bad longevity as I have no experience of different types.

Other guys on the forum have a lot more experience and I'm confident they 20200525_130749.thumb.jpg.fb344ea43a97fb2173dff81dcf39df26.jpgwill give you sound advice.

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The Spotless Group
1 hour ago, Davy G said:

I'm very happy with the one I use from Streamline. I'm on my second motor in six years. I get six to twelve months out of a brass pump. Five minute job to change it. The brass pumps come at different output ratings depending on the RO system. I don't know whether that's good or bad longevity as I have no experience of different types.

Other guys on the forum have a lot more experience and I'm confident they 20200525_130749.thumb.jpg.fb344ea43a97fb2173dff81dcf39df26.jpgwill give you sound advice.

Thanks Davy G. Out of interest, do you leave it plugged in and then just turn the water on? I'm guessing that as soon as water goes through it, the pump starts to work? Thanks

Josh

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42 minutes ago, The Spotless Group said:

Thanks Davy G. Out of interest, do you leave it plugged in and then just turn the water on? I'm guessing that as soon as water goes through it, the pump starts to work? Thanks

Josh

@doug atkinson has a booster pump that will work.

These are basic pumps that you have to manually switch on and off.

If you want to control it automatically you would need to add an electronic controller.

Here's an example.It switches off the booster pump motor when the water flow through it stops.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un/

Depending on your setup you could add a 230v solenoid normally off and a float switch.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/float-switch-230v-2m-cable/

This is what I have used for the past 12 years. When the tank is full the float switch cuts power to the solenoid valve which switches the inlet to the r/o off. When the water stops flowing your booster will stop as well.

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1 hour ago, The Spotless Group said:

Thanks Davy G. Out of interest, do you leave it plugged in and then just turn the water on? I'm guessing that as soon as water goes through it, the pump starts to work? Thanks

Josh

Hi Josh. I suppose the best way to describe the way I have it set up would be semi-automatic after a so far failed attempt to make it fully automatic. The processing is done in a purpose built lean-to shed which I built onto the side of the garage. This doubles as a utility shed for : drier, washing machine and freezer. I also use it as a kit store for my son and mine's kayaking gear. The wetsuits and stuff hanging on rails just below the roof. Other stuff sharing the worktop.

The water supply to the booster pump is tee'd off the supply to the washing machine. All the pipe work is John Guest. Starting at 1/2 inch then reduced to 3/8 for the booster pump, with an inline stop tap on the 3/8. I fitted two switched double electric sockets above the L shaped worktop, for the utilities and booster pump.  The booster pump is controlled by a float valve cable which goes from the pump into the IBC tank, through a slot I cut out of the collar that the lid screws on to. The IBC is in the far side of the garage so I had to cut the float cable and bridge some more in using two small junction boxes to make it long enough.

How the system works is : I turn the water on the online tap. Then I switch on the pump at the plug. When the water level reaches about 6 inches from the top of the IBC the float switch shuts off the pump motor. Water still flows through the pump but much slower as it's now only on mains pressure. We keep a weather eye on the level as it's right by the house. We turn off the water at the  inline stop tap when it reaches about the level of the inlet on the IBC.

Why I say semi-automatic is that I fitted a second, ballcock type float valve on the inlet to the IBC that is supposed to stop the water entirely just before the tank is full. This would have made the system fully automatic. This is only partially successful as even when this float is on the top of its travel water seeps through very slowly and will over-flow. I'm in the process of trying to get the fittings to fit a 3/8 overflow for a precaution. The inlet is 1/4 and the overflow should always be bigger than the inlet.

Water in the pump does not activate it. But make sure you don't run it without water In it.

I will be contacting the supplier of the inline float valve to ask them why it's not fit for purpose.

Sorry Josh, if it seems too much detail to get your head round but I thought you might as well have all the details and you can pick out what might be useful to you. 🙂

 

 

Edited by Davy G
Slight tweek, as I nearly always do. 🙂
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doug atkinson

Gardiners had one specific for a Merlin. I’d have to check the specs of the Merlin membranes to see ours is suitable 

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The Spotless Group
1 hour ago, spruce said:

@doug atkinson has a booster pump that will work.

These are basic pumps that you have to manually switch on and off.

If you want to control it automatically you would need to add an electronic controller.

Here's an example.It switches off the booster pump motor when the water flow through it stops.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un/

Depending on your setup you could add a 230v solenoid normally off and a float switch.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/float-switch-230v-2m-cable/

This is what I have used for the past 12 years. When the tank is full the float switch cuts power to the solenoid valve which switches the inlet to the r/o off. When the water stops flowing your booster will stop as well.

Ok this is very helpful. So just to be clear, you're suggesting I get a booster pump AND an electric controller like the one you suggested OR a 230v solenoid float switch? I'm guessing I dont need both. 

40 minutes ago, doug atkinson said:

Gardiners had one specific for a Merlin. I’d have to check the specs of the Merlin membranes to see ours is suitable 

My merlin is the old design,the one that stands upright. I believe the model has been discontinued now as they brought out the tripod version

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1 hour ago, The Spotless Group said:

Ok this is very helpful. So just to be clear, you're suggesting I get a booster pump AND an electric controller like the one you suggested OR a 230v solenoid float switch? I'm guessing I dont need both. 

My merlin is the old design,the one that stands upright. I believe the model has been discontinued now as they brought out the tripod version

Sorry. You said Merlin. You don't need a float switch as the unit will switch itself off if you fit a ball valve to the pure side.

My brain switched polarity last week and it hasn't switched back yet.

 

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