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Spring Controllers


Daftoldgit

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My Spring controller has a couple of niggles and I'm wondering if its normal or a fault.

A- When switching on or off, I have to hold the button down for a few seconds before it reacts. My varistream came on instantly.

B- Also, when switching on, sometimes it pretends there's a dead end and won't work for maybe half a minute, then it decides there isn't a dead end after all, and works normally.

Anyone else experienced these problems?

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1 hour ago, Daftoldgit said:

My Spring controller has a couple of niggles and I'm wondering if its normal or a fault.

A- When switching on or off, I have to hold the button down for a few seconds before it reacts. My varistream came on instantly.

B- Also, when switching on, sometimes it pretends there's a dead end and won't work for maybe half a minute, then it decides there isn't a dead end after all, and works normally.

Anyone else experienced these problems?

I'm not 100% certain but reference point B, I'm sure the controllers have last function & settings memory from when they were last used. So when turning on it thinks its running the last time it was used? 

Do you have a shut off or Univalve on your pole / hose? If so that's why as the pump will pulse and the system IE pump and hose reel is still charged under pressure.

 

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On 22/10/2020 at 22:55, Daftoldgit said:

My Spring controller has a couple of niggles and I'm wondering if its normal or a fault.

A- When switching on or off, I have to hold the button down for a few seconds before it reacts. My varistream came on instantly.

B- Also, when switching on, sometimes it pretends there's a dead end and won't work for maybe half a minute, then it decides there isn't a dead end after all, and works normally.

Anyone else experienced these problems?

Hi

 

The enter button on the V11 is used to power the controller on/off and for a number of other functions EG setting Cal Plus it is used to access the menu so you can look at battery voltage or flow.  Because we use the one button for a number of different operations the processor needs to know what function is being used. So to turn On or Off the buttons need to be held for a couple seconds. 

The second point on first switching on. The controller at first power up might initially show DE and not turn the pump on straight away. This may just be due to the flow setting used. If you run a low flow rate the pump may not draw current straight away, OR with a high flow rate the pump might see a sudden spike of current and this could cause the controller to DE for a few seconds. The Controller controller tests the DE condition every 3 seconds so it would recognise that the hose is open.

Most likely It could be that Cal is a little to low for the flow setting used OR

The delay could be down to the hose pressuring up.

My suggestion would be to set the controller to your preferred flow rate with the hose out from the trolley and the pole stood up if possible. Then run auto cal this wil make sure the controller calibration is more closely matched to you pump and flow rate this should see the DE time reduce to 2 -3 seconds or not at all

 

Cheers

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Thanks for the replies

My flow is on 24 at the moment, is that considered low?  I don't remember offhand what the cal is set on, just enough so I can switch it off by bending the hose tight.

I'll try the auto cal tomorrow and see what happens.

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8 hours ago, Daftoldgit said:

Thanks for the replies

My flow is on 24 at the moment, is that considered low?  I don't remember offhand what the cal is set on, just enough so I can switch it off by bending the hose tight.

I'll try the auto cal tomorrow and see what happens.

Miles to low. I would be looking at 50 as a minimum to get a good flow of water for rinsing 👍👨‍🦰

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8 hours ago, Daftoldgit said:

Thanks for the replies

My flow is on 24 at the moment, is that considered low?  I don't remember offhand what the cal is set on, just enough so I can switch it off by bending the hose tight.

I'll try the auto cal tomorrow and see what happens.

What jets are you using, if 2mm or even 1.4mm pencil jets is too low you will be rinsing for ever running 1.4mm pencil jets you may get away with around 30-35, 

I am using 100 degree fan jets with a flo of 39 using cold water and I have decent fast flow of water as we get colder and colder days you will need to up your Cal and Flo.

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12 hours ago, Daftoldgit said:

Thanks for the replies

My flow is on 24 at the moment, is that considered low?  I don't remember offhand what the cal is set on, just enough so I can switch it off by bending the hose tight.

I'll try the auto cal tomorrow and see what happens.

In terms of flow rate as you can from the above replies there is a range of flow rates that will be used. It is down to individual preference I came across a Chap in the US who was running a flow rate of 4 to 10 recently. The controller can be auto calibrated at any flow rate we just use 30  to give a common start point in the guides.  By setting the flow rate to your preferred rate the cal will be more accurate. 

Iron Giant is spot on that you will find that calibration will need to be increased a little in the winter compared to summer. The reason is the colder temps mean the hose is slower to expand and the hose wall will be stiffer an less supple. The cold also effects the water in that clod water moves slower than hot. A good example of that would be oil. When cold oil is thick and moves slowly heat the oil and it moves quicker. The same happens to water. The two effects of water moving slower rand stiff hose wall means the pump has to work a little harder to move the water and current draw increases. To match these changes Calibration may be higher in winter than in summer.

For a more long winded answer please see this blog link. http://springltd.co/blog/76/low-temperature-and-wfp-systems

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64! Is that in powerwash territory!  I only have it that high for conservatory roofs... I tend to judge it by the length of the water jetting from the brush- When my flow is on 24 the jet of water is about a foot long, how long a jet of water do others get?

Would it make a difference to the flow that I don't use a hose reel and plug the pole straight into the trolley?

 

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3 minutes ago, Daftoldgit said:

64! Is that in powerwash territory!  I only have it that high for conservatory roofs... I tend to judge it by the length of the water jetting from the brush- When my flow is on 24 the jet of water is about a foot long, how long a jet of water do others get?

Would it make a difference to the flow that I don't use a hose reel and plug the pole straight into the trolley?

 

That’s what we find works best for us anything less and it slowes  us up with the rinsing 

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2 hours ago, Daftoldgit said:

64! Is that in powerwash territory!  I only have it that high for conservatory roofs... I tend to judge it by the length of the water jetting from the brush- When my flow is on 24 the jet of water is about a foot long, how long a jet of water do others get?

Would it make a difference to the flow that I don't use a hose reel and plug the pole straight into the trolley?

 

That would be fine for me. If it works for you keep it on that setting. A lot of people think having the water pouring out is necessary. You could get all sorts of problems like splash back. 

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11 hours ago, Stevieboy said:

That would be fine for me. If it works for you keep it on that setting. A lot of people think having the water pouring out is necessary. You could get all sorts of problems like splash back. 

The higher the flow rate the quicker it takes to clean the windows usually....as for splashback....its not a problem if you rinse on the glass....

 

The problem is if your using a trolley your always mindful of saving water.....

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