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Any Metaclear (on render) experience knocking about?


NoName

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I've got a fair few render jobs lined up using metaclear gel, so looking for the 'dream' kit setup currently using a backpack/pole/flocked brush with fan jets but not sure that's optimal??? It 'dribbles' out and doesn't 'spray' in a nice fan shape as i was hoping...(too viscous)

Anyone use a powered paint roller to apply it? Think that would be low friction and even efficient application - anyone got any experience?

Rinsed it off using a garden hose/gun - but want a more pro set up - telescopic lance or even just a 'garden' hose fed up a pole with a high flow nozzle/gun might give a high enough flow rate to rinse quickly.

I'm looking for an as efficient (quick) as possible pro solution...Ideas/suggestions anyone?   

Edited by NoName
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Never used it but it does say it’s sprayable , I would phone the place that supplied it and ask there advice , just a question why do you want to use that rather than a hypo mix ?. That would do the same job and would be a lot cheaper . 

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19 hours ago, Pjj said:

Never used it but it does say it’s sprayable

Cheers Pjj , ever notice how products often make grandiose claims in the presell bumph 😉  

That said i've got the kit so might try a few test sprays/nozzle types etc to see if i can find a sweet spot 👍 was just hoping to 'stand on the shoulders of giants' from guys on here.

Good q vs hypo - hypo's great stuff but can cause some collateral damage to us/them - i picked up a local stately home recently as they were FURIOUS the ancient varieties of lavender/box hedging or historic variety of this or that had been decimated by a numpty cleaning the s-f's three stories up using hypo...nice clean s+f/shrivelled up 'sorched earth below' 😉  and 'bonus' randomly cleaned ancient flags  - i had to laugh - Yes we can mask/cover/protect - but the spray/run off still needs careful handling.

Meta being so thick stays where it's put  and you can control the dwelll time so can wind down the %hypo, I'm a little concerned that some of the resins used in recoloured render *can* be damaged by hypo penetrating below the surface (or so i've read) - meta keeps it on the surface and out of the 'structure'/substrate of the render. Sprayed hypo has a relatively small dwell time as gravity plays it plays - whereas meta just stay put - so you have a lot more control of the dwelltime and more even application.

Yes a little more pricey but does a great job. I'm doing a few so want to reassure the owners I'm taking all precautions to care for their properties. They know a thing or two about property so they appreciate a more considered approach. 'Painting' it on is also much more controllable than spraying where you will inevitably get a little overspray, on to windows/sill etc etc. I'm trying to avoid any accidents/ incidents which i kind feel on balance is more likely with hypo, which could put the program at risk.

I do spray hypo but in this scenario/job have opted for a more 'bespoke' approach. 

Right that's all my 'working's out' shared.

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Sounds like who ever did the job the first time didn’t know what they were doing there is no need what ever the height to kill plant life below , it’s about knowing how to use the product safely to get the desired results, all theses products including biocides can and will kill other organic and plant life if left on the surface , I just feel trying to roll something like that evenly on a surface to get a Evan clean all over could be difficult,and Ime guessing it still needs rinsing off so the potential for problems still exists , I would be interested to see how it goes can you get some before/after pics and give us a report on how it goes , sounds interesting , good luck 

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Yeah we do have our unfair share of flyby nights/wannabes with 'not much gear' and even less idea - when asked by the estate manager what chemical was it he was using he had to phone a 'friend' to find out what it was 😉 

It goes on smooth/ish with a wfp/flocked brush but it just needs a little encouragement to spread around evenly- keen to avoid risk of leaving any 'brushed' flat patination - hence the powered roller route which should 'just' apply like a roller does paint - quick and easy, little/no mess.

Yes will need rinsing but the concentration of gel is at a lower starting point and the run off is massively diluted with a good drench/soaking - I can get the run off on my work trousers and it doesn't take the colour out - now you can't really say that when spray hypo 😉  more like 'blast another good pair of trousers ruined' 

Aaarh yeah the before/after pics - always the best bit of any 'clean' - sure - but i'm sure you can imagine - 'tie dye' effect render / brand 'new' looking render couple of hours later 😉 

I'm keen to get the efficiency of the process ranked up a few notches - just n case anyone out there can advise an optimal kit/setup       

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2 minutes ago, NoName said:

Yeah we do have our unfair share of flyby nights/wannabes with 'not much gear' and even less idea - when asked by the estate manager what chemical was it he was using he had to phone a 'friend' to find out what it was 😉 

It goes on smooth/ish with a wfp/flocked brush but it just needs a little encouragement to spread around evenly- keen to avoid risk of leaving any 'brushed' flat patination - hence the powered roller route which should 'just' apply like a roller does paint - quick and easy, little/no mess.

Yes will need rinsing but the concentration of gel is at a lower starting point and the run off is massively diluted with a good drench/soaking - I can get the run off on my work trousers and it doesn't take the colour out - now you can't really say that when spray hypo 😉  more like 'blast another good pair of trousers ruined' 

Aaarh yeah the before/after pics - always the best bit of any 'clean' - sure - but i'm sure you can imagine - 'tie dye' effect render / brand 'new' looking render couple of hours later 😉 

I'm keen to get the efficiency of the process ranked up a few notches - just n case anyone out there can advise an optimal kit/setup       

Got to post some pictures after you have done it 😂😂

A3A7B088-2A0A-4CAD-9639-A8744C6F1E63.jpeg

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C1EBCB46-B306-4C37-B9F3-3247242C61EB.jpeg

0FD011D4-296E-4343-AC1C-98256A92B2DF.jpeg

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5A4AC3F6-7910-4EA4-A3BD-7150E07AA259.jpeg

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Eeeweehh...looks like the final scenes from a bad slasher movie - nightmare on St Ives street #10???

Nothing better than a good before/after shocker set 😉 makes the point succinctly ...

Can seem a little gratuitous...but has the desired - sale closed 😉... 'move along folks nothing to see here'..

Edited by NoName
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  • 2 weeks later...

I used meta clear for the first time yesterday on some coping stones. I must say fantastic results and I didn’t make the place smell like a swimming pool 👍😃 I think I will start my render Cleaning with an initial DDAC treatment and then return a few weeks later and deal with stubborn areas with meta clear...

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10 hours ago, JBC said:

I think I will start my render Cleaning with an initial DDAC treatment and then return a few weeks later and deal with stubborn areas with meta clear...

JBC for what it's worth my two penn'orth...

Depending on the predominate staining :

Red/Green - DDAC then Meta/Hypo if needed (grey areas) OR  

Extensive Grey/Blackish - Meta/Hypo then DDAC if needed... 👍

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@NoName

Seeing as we are on the subject perhaps I could pick ur brains...

I have a softwash job end of the week, its painted cement render with green growth on it. I quoted with hypo in mind but seeing as they have leaded windows i am starting to swing towards Biocide 🤔

Customer wont mind having to wait for results as they are having it done before painting in the spring.

What do u reckon? 

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JBC - go easy i don't have much to spare... 😉 

Think I'll be suggesting what 😉 I think you already know...hypo/lead don't mix especially leaded lights 🤯- flashing is easier to treat post hypo encounter but you'll be there for hours treating all those leaded windows - imho never worth skimping on materials - you only mess up once to regret it - cue sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach as you watch the silver grey leads go an alarming shade of bronze. Also no risk any runoff is going to stain the patio where they have had metallic objects stood around etc... Just pass on any increase £ to custy -  tell 'em the truth you'd gone over the approach and think least risky approach is bio given windows, but will carry slight price increase - or if they are happy/prefer to risk it let them make the call....most will go with your preference/guidance (afterall your the Pro 😉) and appreciate your attention to detail protecting their main asset - get 'em to sign a waiver if they want hypo and pay for your time to remediate any overspray. 

That said many on here like a good dosing of hypo...cue posts...

 

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@NoName

Yes I have experienced that sinking feeling a few times 😂 fortunately it hasnt ended too badly but the more I do the more I see its worth doing right 👍

There is a chap near here who is a bleach bandit, just sprays hypo on everything and charges a couple of hundred for a 4 bed detached, some of who are my customers. I dont point out the brown/orange lead flashing etc but can see his handy work on a few of my windows customers houses. 🙈

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18 hours ago, NoName said:

JBC - go easy i don't have much to spare... 😉 

Think I'll be suggesting what 😉 I think you already know...hypo/lead don't mix especially leaded lights 🤯- flashing is easier to treat post hypo encounter but you'll be there for hours treating all those leaded windows - imho never worth skimping on materials - you only mess up once to regret it - cue sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach as you watch the silver grey leads go an alarming shade of bronze. Also no risk any runoff is going to stain the patio where they have had metallic objects stood around etc... Just pass on any increase £ to custy -  tell 'em the truth you'd gone over the approach and think least risky approach is bio given windows, but will carry slight price increase - or if they are happy/prefer to risk it let them make the call....most will go with your preference/guidance (afterall your the Pro 😉) and appreciate your attention to detail protecting their main asset - get 'em to sign a waiver if they want hypo and pay for your time to remediate any overspray. 

That said many on here like a good dosing of hypo...cue posts...

 

When softwashing a house with leaded windows we mask up the glass and any  electrical items like alarm boxes door locks key safes etc tk prevent the hype affecting them , this should be standard practice by any competent firm offering softwashing what ever method is used , if you dint follow theses principals and there is a problem your insurance won’t pay out . 

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Pjj have you every had a problem where it wasn't apparent you needed to mask over something - I'm thinking where someone had some metallic item, e.g one of the 'deep fat fryer' style protective grills which fix over vent/flu's or a renegade screw/fixing or an old satellite dish, mount or hanging basket bracket etc etc or even nothing visible but metallic particles had leeched down the wall from years previous etc - only for it show up a nice rusty orange stain post hypo?

I know I've had that occur on a few patios I've done...the classic by the bbq where calor gas canister has stood all year but got relocated in readiness for a gleaming patio ? How do you manage/mitigate those scenarios ? Seriously would like to know what to you do to treat the aftermath - I've got my treatments but always keen to learn more...

Just re-hijacking my thread 😉 anyone else ever applied metaclear gel on render - looking for a better method than 'spraying' it on via a backpack...using flocked brush with fanjets....asper Algo's boys directions but only seems to dribble out and requires a fair amount of massaging around on the render to spread evenly...i'm thinking a powered roller would be more optimal...but keen to get any input from those who used a method in anger??? Anyone...tumble weed...anyone?

 

 

Edited by NoName
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2 hours ago, NoName said:

Pjj have you every had a problem where it wasn't apparent you needed to mask over something - I'm thinking where someone had some metallic item, e.g one of the 'deep fat fryer' style protective grills which fix over vent/flu's or a renegade screw/fixing or an old satellite dish, mount or hanging basket bracket etc etc or even nothing visible but metallic particles had leeched down the wall from years previous etc - only for it show up a nice rusty orange stain post hypo?

I know I've had that occur on a few patios I've done...the classic by the bbq where calor gas canister has stood all year but got relocated in readiness for a gleaming patio ? How do you manage/mitigate those scenarios ? Seriously would like to know what to you do to treat the aftermath - I've got my treatments but always keen to learn more...

Just rehijacking by thread 😉 anyone else ever applied metaclear gel on render - looking for a better method than 'spraying' it on via a backpack...using flocked brush with fanjets....asper Algo's boys directions but only seems to dribble out and requires a fair ammount of massaging around on the render to spend evenly...i'm thinking a powered roller would be more optimal...but keen to get any input from those used a method in anger??? Anyone...tumble weed...anyone?

 

 

Hypo will make lead staining runs down a wall look 10 x worse after cleaning than before 😬😬😬 we always treat , rust , lead staining before hypo application this will prevent this happening @kevinc250 is the expert on this I have learnt a lot from him and have been extremely grateful for the advice he has given me , Ime reluctant to say which chemicals we use as if not used correctly they can cause damage to the building , environment, and yourself , but take a look on bonnymans web site as they sell everything that’s needed , sometimes several applications are needed to remove rust staining but it can be removed with very good results, one thing to be wary of is hypo on slate hung buildings if there is iron ore in the slate it will turn it orange and it looks awful been there and done that one 😂😂

Not used the gel stuff but know some apply it with a Harris pole and paint roller but dint go to fast as it can fling off the roller .

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thanks for the tag @pjj, sorry its taken a while to reply as time for me at the moment is not in abundance.

looking through the topic @NoNamewants to use metaclear or whatever it is, i admit its something i've not used before as i don't seem a need for it.

i honestly think the op is overthinking the issue in regard to cleaning render, why oh why not just buy some benz lightning cleanz as it is approve by k-rend for cleaning purposes/follow the guides for applying it and the finished result will be as you would want it to be.

with regards to run off stains etc from metal brackets as i think it was mentioned in the thread somewhere, for metal run off stains ie rust  you use oxallic acid-available from bonnymans for less than a tenner, mix that into pure water into a paste and apply and agitate and leave it to work before any other work is carried out. its very important for any soft washing job you do that any visible stains be rectified before any chemicals are applied to walls etc.

regards the spraying of metaclear to walls, why not try benz lightning and snow foam ? saves all the roller faff-just a thought and its something i wouldn't use finn but its an idea.

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