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Repairing WFP Pumps

Omega

Active member
Messages
183
Location
Wiltshire
I've got 3 pumps which are not operating.

2 are from a system I bought and never worked with power. no idea what happened to them but were surplus anyway.

1 was working until it was left running dry (not me).

My question is, is there anyone who is competent at repairing these for a charge?

Or is there any guides on how to test, check and repair them? I'm fairly competent with mechanics and electronics but I do not know how to start going about diagnosing or testing these.

I've searched and I haven't been able to find anything useful on the web.

They are all the ones that come with Ionics systems.

Like this: https://www.ionicsystems.com/uk/product/ionic-100psi-water-pump-12v/

It feels a shame to discard a part when it could be a simple fix.

Thanks in advance and any help or direction would be appreciated.

 
I've got 3 pumps which are not operating.

2 are from a system I bought and never worked with power. no idea what happened to them but were surplus anyway.

1 was working until it was left running dry (not me).

My question is, is there anyone who is competent at repairing these for a charge?

Or is there any guides on how to test, check and repair them? I'm fairly competent with mechanics and electronics but I do not know how to start going about diagnosing or testing these.

I've searched and I haven't been able to find anything useful on the web.

They are all the ones that come with Ionics systems.

Like this: https://www.ionicsystems.com/uk/product/ionic-100psi-water-pump-12v/

It feels a shame to discard a part when it could be a simple fix.

Thanks in advance and any help or direction would be appreciated.
Personally don’t think it’s worth messing about with pumps new ones from daqua or Grippatank same as the ones Gardiners used to sell only cost  around £75 a go they last 6-10 years , and far less likely tk have a problem with a new pump than a refurbished one , my pumps are 6 years old and done over 15,000 hours run time , and still working fine but when they do play up I will just replace them .

 
I've got 3 pumps which are not operating.

2 are from a system I bought and never worked with power. no idea what happened to them but were surplus anyway.

1 was working until it was left running dry (not me).

My question is, is there anyone who is competent at repairing these for a charge?

Or is there any guides on how to test, check and repair them? I'm fairly competent with mechanics and electronics but I do not know how to start going about diagnosing or testing these.

I've searched and I haven't been able to find anything useful on the web.

They are all the ones that come with Ionics systems.

Like this: https://www.ionicsystems.com/uk/product/ionic-100psi-water-pump-12v/

It feels a shame to discard a part when it could be a simple fix.

Thanks in advance and any help or direction would be appreciated.
The ionics pumps are identical to the Gardiners ones just a different label I have ionics pumps and Gardiners ones , Gardiners are half the price fir the same thing , Gardiners use John guest fittings in the pumps rather than the plastic elbows ionics use .

 
I've got 3 pumps which are not operating.

2 are from a system I bought and never worked with power. no idea what happened to them but were surplus anyway.

1 was working until it was left running dry (not me).

My question is, is there anyone who is competent at repairing these for a charge?

Or is there any guides on how to test, check and repair them? I'm fairly competent with mechanics and electronics but I do not know how to start going about diagnosing or testing these.

I've searched and I haven't been able to find anything useful on the web.

They are all the ones that come with Ionics systems.

Like this: https://www.ionicsystems.com/uk/product/ionic-100psi-water-pump-12v/

It feels a shame to discard a part when it could be a simple fix.

Thanks in advance and any help or direction would be appreciated.
Most pumps are serviceable and should be able to source new parts such as O rings Diaphragms pressure switches and stators etc from the supplier.

 
I use shurflo pumps , presure swithc can go a lot and i just put a new one in.. cost a few pound for a switch.

 
If you have a multimeter check the pressure switches and the resistance of the motor coils. You can test against the one you have that works.

If all ok open up and inspect diaphragms and the motor shaft rotates. 

 
If you have a multimeter check the pressure switches and the resistance of the motor coils. You can test against the one you have that works.

If all ok open up and inspect diaphragms and the motor shaft rotates. 
A bit more tricky with testing the motor coils. The external field coils are basically magnets in a Shurflo pump. The armature has coils but the commutator really needs to be cleaned up before testing each coil circuit. If any of the commutator segments are lifted or missing then the armature is scrap anyway. A new motor for a Shurflo pump is no longer available. When it was years ago it cost more than a complete pump.

If the o/p is asking this question then there is every possibility that this task is above his mechanical knowledge level (no disrespect to the o/p.)

If using a controller then the pressure switch isn't needed. A Shurflo sourced p/s is nearly £25.

My mentality is to repair before replace, but at the cost of individual parts when compared to a replacement pump, it makes more economic sense to replace the whole pump tbh. As @Pjjsays, Shurflo's last a long time. With use other items wear such as bearing for example. Carbon brushes aren't sold separately.

I could have repaired the alternator on my van that packed up 18 months ago. But I chose to replace it with a brand new one (not refurbished) for the same reason I would just replace a pump with a new one. Every component on a replacement part is brand new.

And yes, I have a used fully working spare pump on the shelf should I need one. The pressure switch failed back in 2005. The pump was in service until last year when I used a new one on the current van. It is a 3.8lpm pump which was replaced with a 5.2lpm pump, and that's the only reason why it was replaced.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
A bit more tricky with testing the motor coils. The external field coils are basically magnets in a Shurflo pump. The armature has coils but the commutator really needs to be cleaned up before testing each coil circuit. If any of the commutator segments are lifted or missing then the armature is scrap anyway. A new motor for a Shurflo pump is no longer available. When it was years ago it cost more than a complete pump.

If the o/p is asking this question then there is every possibility that this task is above his mechanical knowledge level (no disrespect to the o/p.)

If using a controller then the pressure switch isn't needed. A Shurflo sourced p/s is nearly £25.

My mentality is to repair before replace, but at the cost of individual parts when compared to a replacement pump, it makes more economic sense to replace the whole pump tbh. As @Pjjsays, Shurflo's last a long time. With use other items wear such as bearing for example. Carbon brushes aren't sold separately.

I could have repaired the alternator on my van that packed up 18 months ago. But I chose to replace it with a brand new one (not refurbished) for the same reason I would just replace a pump with a new one. Every component on a replacement part is brand new.

And yes, I have a used fully working spare pump on the shelf should I need one. The pressure switch failed back in 2005. The pump was in service until last year when I used a new one on the current van. It is a 3.8lpm pump which was replaced with a 5.2lpm pump, and that's the only reason why it was replaced.
All my shurflo pumps last me 2-3 years in average

The pressure switches go a lot... once every few months( each pump sucks 800ltrs if water per day ) i replace them and it takes 5-10 mins to test and fix each pump

Every van has a spare pump on board, if any van comes to me with a broken pump i replace the broken pump with a working pump 

i currently got about 6-8 pumps to repair from last year with 2 sat there working as backup?

If the pump fails after a new pressure switch has been placed then the pump is surplus to requirements.. and is used as spairs/repairs

A lot of people throw there shurflo pumps away thinking its not working when in fact its only the pressure switch

i have over 150 spare pressure switches sat there stocked up ?

9/10 times the failure of a shurflo pump will be the pressure switch

 
Last edited by a moderator:
All my shurflo pumps last me 2-3 years in average

The pressure switches go a lot... once every few months( each pump sucks 800ltrs if water per day ) i replace them and it takes 5-10 mins to test and fix each pump

Every van has a spare pump on board, if any van comes to me with a broken pump i replace the broken pump with a working pump 

i currently got about 6-8 pumps to repair from last year with 2 sat there working as backup?

If the pump fails after a new pressure switch has been placed then the pump is surplus to requirements.. and is used as spairs/repairs

A lot of people throw there shurflo pumps away thinking its not working when in fact its only the pressure switch

i have over 150 spare pressure switches sat there stocked up ?

9/10 times the failure of a shurflo pump will be the pressure switch
Sounds like you know a shurflo pump inside and out! ?

 
A bit more tricky with testing the motor coils. The external field coils are basically magnets in a Shurflo pump. The armature has coils but the commutator really needs to be cleaned up before testing each coil circuit. If any of the commutator segments are lifted or missing then the armature is scrap anyway. A new motor for a Shurflo pump is no longer available. When it was years ago it cost more than a complete pump.

If the o/p is asking this question then there is every possibility that this task is above his mechanical knowledge level (no disrespect to the o/p.)

If using a controller then the pressure switch isn't needed. A Shurflo sourced p/s is nearly £25.

My mentality is to repair before replace, but at the cost of individual parts when compared to a replacement pump, it makes more economic sense to replace the whole pump tbh. As @Pjjsays, Shurflo's last a long time. With use other items wear such as bearing for example. Carbon brushes aren't sold separately.

I could have repaired the alternator on my van that packed up 18 months ago. But I chose to replace it with a brand new one (not refurbished) for the same reason I would just replace a pump with a new one. Every component on a replacement part is brand new.

And yes, I have a used fully working spare pump on the shelf should I need one. The pressure switch failed back in 2005. The pump was in service until last year when I used a new one on the current van. It is a 3.8lpm pump which was replaced with a 5.2lpm pump, and that's the only reason why it was replaced.
Here here, tools out repair and fault find. My ethos exactly 

 
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