Richard Girking

Marko067 said:

If it's a Hozelock type connector, sometimes one or more of the teeth inside the end of the female connector that lock it into place can break, so it only partially holds on.  It then dislodges when the pressure changes as when you open the valve.  This has happened to me at least twice.  If this is what's happened then it needs replacing, as has been said.

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Rich g said:

Thought it may be hozelock fitting so changed it, after a week same thing happened,??

ive recalibrated, so see how that goes.

thanks 

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spruce said:

P5 is actually PS. This is telling you that the pressure switch is activated. This basically means that the controller isn't cutting off before the water pressure is activating your pump's pressure switch.

We have found that we could clean windows with a pressure of 55 psi with the flow we use. Our pump's pressure switch is set to cut off at 100psi when manufactured. We don't want to waste battery energy running the pump to 100psi when we only need 55psi.

Reducing the calibration setting down to around 60 psi means there is less stress on the hose components when we switch the Univalve/tap off at the pole. (The calibration setting on your Spring controller is a number - a portion of 99. It doesn't represent the actual cut off pressure. We got that figure of 55psi using a pressure gauge. We were also using minibore hose. Using microbore hose would mean that we would probably need a slightly higher calibration setting to achieve the same flow.)

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Rich g said:

Thanks for that ,, all sounds very technical. I’m working at 30 on the controller which has been fine up till now.. do I need anew controller  maybe?

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13 minutes ago, spruce said:

Your controller has 2 screens. The first one you see when you switch it on is the flow setting. As you increase the number the flow increases as the pump motor turns faster. That has nothing to do with your calibration setting. That is accessed via pushing a few buttons in the sequence they say for your particular controller.

If you do a search using the word calibration there are dozens of posts with video links on how to access the calibration settings.

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Rich g said:

Thanks for that,, I’ll have a look, I’m understanding a bit better now, only been using water fed 3 years, traditional 20 years before that..

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spruce said:

There is a wealth of information about controllers and how they work, water viscosity, temperature and battery maintenance on Spring's website;

https://springltd.co/blog/49/water-dynamics-within-water-fed-pole-systems

Here's a brief extract of how the calibration facility works.

So why calibrate the controller to a pump?

What we are doing is telling the control what the maximum pressure the system normally operates at. To get a good flow at the brush head the system is probably running between 40 - 70 PSI. So the control knows that the normal max level is 70 PSI. When a user stops the water flow the pump will attempt to push against the restriction increasing the pressure above 70 PSI the pump sees this sudden rise and stops the pump. This is what we refer to as DEAD END (DE).

During this DE (flow stopped period) the controller periodically retests the pressure at the pump. When the restriction is removed the pressure falls back below the 70PSI maximum and the controller restarts the pump at the preset flow. Hence the need to use auto calibration with the pole attached with some hose off the reel.

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Rich g said:

Cheers for your help,, calibrating properly seems to have sorted it.

 Thanks again 

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James Bond said:

I'm working in Brid every other week if you ever need a hand with it give me a shout ?

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