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Is the univalve fixable ?


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Has anyone managed to fix a univalve that doesn’t turn off ??

 

ive taken it apart and cleaned and greased it and had no luck in fixing it. Has anyone managed a fix or is it time for a new one ? 

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11 minutes ago, CHWS said:

Has anyone managed to fix a univalve that doesn’t turn off ??

 

ive taken it apart and cleaned and greased it and had no luck in fixing it. Has anyone managed a fix or is it time for a new one ? 

I fitted one and shoved the pu hose up to the top and it won't turn off. In the end I had to trim it so it didn't keep hitting the body of the univalve and it has worked fine ever since.

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7 minutes ago, CHWS said:

Has anyone managed to fix a univalve that doesn’t turn off ??

 

ive taken it apart and cleaned and greased it and had no luck in fixing it. Has anyone managed a fix or is it time for a new one ? 

There is a tiny O ring on the plunger that seals on the valve seat. Mine came off. I just fished it out and refitted it back on the plunger.  Whether they are available as a spare or not from an O Ring supplier I don't know.

What I do know is that I have tried to source the main O Ring and it's an odd size that no one carries as a stock item.

One of the cleaners had an issue with springs corroding. He found replacements but they weren't stiff enough.

Probably not worth the trouble to repair. TBH mine have lasted well so I would just buy another when the time comes. Someone has suggested that Gardiners appear to have the Peter Fogwill tap sorted so I might give that a go.

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24 minutes ago, spruce said:

There is a tiny O ring on the plunger that seals on the valve seat. Mine came off. I just fished it out and refitted it back on the plunger.  Whether they are available as a spare or not from an O Ring supplier I don't know.

What I do know is that I have tried to source the main O Ring and it's an odd size that no one carries as a stock item.

One of the cleaners had an issue with springs corroding. He found replacements but they weren't stiff enough.

Probably not worth the trouble to repair. TBH mine have lasted well so I would just buy another when the time comes. Someone has suggested that Gardiners appear to have the Peter Fogwill tap sorted so I might give that a go.

Tbf it’s one from when they where just brought out. Seems not long ago I replaced an original and literally bought one for a new pole the other day. I will have a look at the Peter fogwill tap 👍🏻 

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31 minutes ago, spruce said:

There is a tiny O ring on the plunger that seals on the valve seat. Mine came off. I just fished it out and refitted it back on the plunger.  Whether they are available as a spare or not from an O Ring supplier I don't know.

What I do know is that I have tried to source the main O Ring and it's an odd size that no one carries as a stock item.

One of the cleaners had an issue with springs corroding. He found replacements but they weren't stiff enough.

Probably not worth the trouble to repair. TBH mine have lasted well so I would just buy another when the time comes. Someone has suggested that Gardiners appear to have the Peter Fogwill tap sorted so I might give that a go.

Am I right in saying that the Peter fogwill tap doesn’t work with a swivel ? 

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1 hour ago, CHWS said:

Has anyone managed to fix a univalve that doesn’t turn off ??

 

ive taken it apart and cleaned and greased it and had no luck in fixing it. Has anyone managed a fix or is it time for a new one ? 

I have repaired 2 and they work. The only thing you can't fix it's the snapped off hose barbs. Saw a chap on YouTube who had waited 2 weeks for his to arrive and he went to install it and snapped it. Not one for the heavy handed 

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1 hour ago, Apw1210 said:

I have repaired 2 and they work. The only thing you can't fix it's the snapped off hose barbs. Saw a chap on YouTube who had waited 2 weeks for his to arrive and he went to install it and snapped it. Not one for the heavy handed 

Did you just grease them up ? 

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2 hours ago, CHWS said:

Has anyone managed to fix a univalve that doesn’t turn off ??

 

ive taken it apart and cleaned and greased it and had no luck in fixing it. Has anyone managed a fix or is it time for a new one ? 

Why bother trying to fix one they only cheap we allways order a couple just in case one packs up 

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12 hours ago, CHWS said:

Am I right in saying that the Peter fogwill tap doesn’t work with a swivel ? 

I haven't used the Gardner adaption of the Peter Fogwill valve. Someone on the forums says it will work with a swivel; you just need to adjust the valve to get the tension right.

I was going to order one with my last pole order but they weren't in stock. I just swapped my old Univalve over onto the new pole. I do have a swivel attached to one of my brushes, but I hardly ever use that brush.

Edited by spruce
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I honestly thought the univalve was the best thing since sliced bread but I’m finding myself using the spring wfp link controller more and more often forgetting to use my univalve nowadays.

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I use Gardiners gooseneck (twist) valve.  It works very well for me, even combined with a swivel.  

I've been using them for over a year now with only one slight niggle, and that is the length of the small barb on the top.  It could do with being slightly (3-4mm) longer, as I have had to use a small cable tie to stop the hose keep coming off.  Other than this it's a perfect fit for me.  

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10 hours ago, Den said:

I honestly thought the univalve was the best thing since sliced bread but I’m finding myself using the spring wfp link controller more and more often forgetting to use my univalve nowadays.

If it works for you then that's the main thing. I have found that when I switch the controller off at the van and let the hose depressurize it takes time before the flow through the jets stops. This is even more so when we use hot water. Not having ever used the remote fob, I wouldn't know how easy or difficult I would manage it.

I switch my flow off between windows unless they are very close together. I doubt you would do this with a remote link.

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3 hours ago, spruce said:

If it works for you then that's the main thing. I have found that when I switch the controller off at the van and let the hose depressurize it takes time before the flow through the jets stops. This is even more so when we use hot water. Not having ever used the remote fob, I wouldn't know how easy or difficult I would manage it.

I switch my flow off between windows unless they are very close together. I doubt you would do this with a remote link.

Overall not really any difference, for the faction of a sevens it takes to lift the pole to tug on the univalve in comparison to to tap the fob button it’s about the same time with regarding the 1 second pause if that makes. I have Tendinosis of my shoulder and slightly raising the pole to tug the valve is aggravating my healing time, each to their own but I’m loving the WFP link 😃

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6 minutes ago, Den said:

I have Tendinosis of my shoulder

I have tendonitis of my knee, it's known as "runners knee" That's obviously not applicable to me 🤣

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4 hours ago, Part Timer said:

I have tendonitis of my knee, it's known as "runners knee" That's obviously not applicable to me 🤣

If it’s a case of running to the pub your have a severe case of it 😂😂

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I have managed to take apart, clean and re-grease univalve and it worked for a while but it is my experience that after a while it started to take ages (3 or 4 pulls) to turn off and I just bit the bullet and bought some new ones. I find that the new gardiner gooseneck helps the univalve work really well. With the old goosenecks the o ring at the top of the gooseneck used to gradually slip up the hose towards the brush t-piece, when pulling the univalve, making it more difficult to stop the flow. With the new gooseneck it can’t budge. 

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4 hours ago, Rickadoo said:

I have managed to take apart, clean and re-grease univalve and it worked for a while but it is my experience that after a while it started to take ages (3 or 4 pulls) to turn off and I just bit the bullet and bought some new ones. I find that the new gardiner gooseneck helps the univalve work really well. With the old goosenecks the o ring at the top of the gooseneck used to gradually slip up the hose towards the brush t-piece, when pulling the univalve, making it more difficult to stop the flow. With the new gooseneck it can’t budge. 

Same as you, one of mine has started to get difficult to turn off. I'm planning to take it apart and find out what is going off with it. I think it's most likely the spring is not strong enough any more to return it fully back in. It happens more when extended so the weight of the hose pulls on it and makes it harder to turn off. 

If I push the Hose up a bit after pulling it, it goes off. 

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23 minutes ago, Skxawng said:

Same as you, one of mine has started to get difficult to turn off. I'm planning to take it apart and find out what is going off with it. I think it's most likely the spring is not strong enough any more to return it fully back in. It happens more when extended so the weight of the hose pulls on it and makes it harder to turn off. 

If I push the Hose up a bit after pulling it, it goes off. 

Yeah. There is a degree of flexibility in the hose so the longer the pole is, the more give there is, and the harder you have to pull. I wondered if it’s also to do with the pressure of the water. When you turn it on it is assisted by the water pressure, when you turn it off you have to work against that pressure. 

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