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Bilge pump wiring?

wonderer99

Member
Messages
31
Location
Rye
Hey all. So I have a bilge pump going in my van tank to fast fill a backpack. Now electrical aspects are definitely not my area of expertise so can anyone help with a simple working diagram? There will be no float switch, just a simple on off toggle switch. 

So simply negative from the pump to negative battery terminal. But what about positive from the pump? Where does the switch fit in if the positive goes to the battery? Also do I need a fuse in line and if so whereabouts? 

Please help an electrical idiot! 

 
You are correct about the negative.

As for positive, yes you need a fuse, ideally as close to the battery as possible. The fuse rating should be a bit higher than the pump needs. ie if it says it consumes 5 amps then a 7.5 amp would be good but a 10amp would also probably be fine. Fuses are purely to protect the cable from going up in flames should it short to the chassis of the van (in simple terms).

So battery +ve to fuse - out of fuse to switch - out of switch to bilge pump +ve wire. Simple as that.

Make sure that there are no strands of wire sticking out of connectors and you twist the strands together before you put them in connectors. 

Austin @Apw1210 did a couple of nice simple vids on connectors that might help?






 
3 hours ago, ched999uk said:

You are correct about the negative.

As for positive, yes you need a fuse, ideally as close to the battery as possible. The fuse rating should be a bit higher than the pump needs. ie if it says it consumes 5 amps then a 7.5 amp would be good but a 10amp would also probably be fine. Fuses are purely to protect the cable from going up in flames should it short to the chassis of the van (in simple terms).

So battery +ve to fuse - out of fuse to switch - out of switch to bilge pump +ve wire. Simple as that.

Make sure that there are no strands of wire sticking out of connectors and you twist the strands together before you put them in connectors. 

Austin @Apw1210 did a couple of nice simple vids on connectors that might help?


Thanks very much, appreciate the reply. One thing. At the risk of sounding completely brainless does the positive wire from the switch to the pump attach to the same connection as the fused wire or a separate one? The on off switches I have have three prongs? 

 
3 hours ago, ched999uk said:

You are correct about the negative.

As for positive, yes you need a fuse, ideally as close to the battery as possible. The fuse rating should be a bit higher than the pump needs. ie if it says it consumes 5 amps then a 7.5 amp would be good but a 10amp would also probably be fine. Fuses are purely to protect the cable from going up in flames should it short to the chassis of the van (in simple terms).

So battery +ve to fuse - out of fuse to switch - out of switch to bilge pump +ve wire. Simple as that.

Make sure that there are no strands of wire sticking out of connectors and you twist the strands together before you put them in connectors. 

Austin @Apw1210 did a couple of nice simple vids on connectors that might help?


Here you go mate. Especially made just for you.

Need any further help just ask away

kind regards Austin

wfp.jpg

 
@Apw1210 hey bud. I have wired up as your diagram shows but not sure where to connect the negative wire from the toggle switch? As wired the pump turns on when connected to 5he battery and stays on whichever way the switch is flicked? The black wire from the toggle is not connected to anything at the mo. 

IMG_20210529_113656.jpg

 
@Apw1210 hey bud. I have wired up as your diagram shows but not sure where to connect the negative wire from the toggle switch? As wired the pump turns on when connected to 5he battery and stays on whichever way the switch is flicked? The black wire from the toggle is not connected to anything at the mo. 

View attachment 24776
The switch should be effectively cutting the +ve wire that goes from fuse to pump. So from fuse to centre of switch, from either of other 2 pins on switch to the pump. Simple as that. The -ve from batter goes straight to the other connection on the pump, no other -ve wires are needed. 

Think of the switch the same as you touching the +ve wire from pump onto the +ver terminal of the battery. When you move the wire away from the battery there is an air gap between wire and battery so no electricity flows. A switch provides the same air gap when you flick it.

Hope that helps?

 
The switch should be effectively cutting the +ve wire that goes from fuse to pump. So from fuse to centre of switch, from either of other 2 pins on switch to the pump. Simple as that. The -ve from batter goes straight to the other connection on the pump, no other -ve wires are needed. 

Think of the switch the same as you touching the +ve wire from pump onto the +ver terminal of the battery. When you move the wire away from the battery there is an air gap between wire and battery so no electricity flows. A switch provides the same air gap when you flick it.

Hope that helps?
I'm sorry but the drawing @Apw1210 made for @wonderer99is very clear. If he is having difficulty in transposing the drawing model to the real thing then I suggest he get someone else to wire it up for him.

Sorry@wonderer99 Please don't take offence; it said for your own protection as electricity, especially 230v, (not applicable here) is very dangerous. It's said with the best of intentions.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm sorry but the drawing @Apw1210 made for @wonderer99is very clear. If he is having difficulty in transposing the drawing model to the real thing then I suggest he get someone else to wire it up for him.

Sorry@wonderer99 Please don't take offence; it said for your own protection as electricity, especially 230v, (not applicable here) is very dangerous. It's said with the best of intentions.
I did think Austin's drawing were perfect and I was a bit hesitant to try and clarify but who ever is doing it can solder and use heatshrink. So I was giving them the benefit of the doubt as they seem to be doing a good safe job connecting things just needed slight clarification. 

As you say mains 230vac is deadly and not to be messed with at all. Even 12v can cause fires as the current that can come from a battery is massive and will easily melt insulation and make wires glow red hot and will cause a fire. Hence me mentioning the fuse again.

 
@Apw1210 hey bud. I have wired up as your diagram shows but not sure where to connect the negative wire from the toggle switch? As wired the pump turns on when connected to 5he battery and stays on whichever way the switch is flicked? The black wire from the toggle is not connected to anything at the mo. 

View attachment 24776
The reason my schematic drawing is colour coded is to prevent mistakes as 12v low voltage wiring utilises switching between the lives (red +) the only similarly with HV wiring

To simplify simple for you

Battery positive  - to red wire - to fuse holder - to red wire - to switch pin - switch pin to red wire to pump positive

Negative black wire from pump to battery terminal Negative

 
I did think Austin's drawing were perfect and I was a bit hesitant to try and clarify but who ever is doing it can solder and use heatshrink. So I was giving them the benefit of the doubt as they seem to be doing a good safe job connecting things just needed slight clarification. 

As you say mains 230vac is deadly and not to be messed with at all. Even 12v can cause fires as the current that can come from a battery is massive and will easily melt insulation and make wires glow red hot and will cause a fire. Hence me mentioning the fuse again.
I could of drawn in CAD but kiss keep it simple stupid

 
These may a bit stupid questions but…I have just got a bilge pump for the same purpose and am wondering how others have installed theirs in their tank? Also, if I have it permanently connected to my leisure battery but say I’m not using the bilge pump for a time, will it still drain the battery?
 
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