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Upgrading RO system


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Posted (edited)

As the title says really. I currently use the 450 GPD unit from Pure Freedom ( https://purefreedom.co.uk/450-gpd-compact-reverse-osmosis-system.html ) and, whilst it does a good job, without a booster pump it takes ages to fill up a 1000 ltr IBC tank. 

We're in the process of buying a new house and, rather than removing and reassembling this one, it makes sense to get a system that produces pure a bit faster. Once we're in the new place, the next step is employing somebody full-time, so this will require access to more water at a faster rate.

Can anyone suggest an upgrade? I know @doug atkinson is someone that would have a good idea.

Also, I wonder if just adding a booster pump to the line will improve the water production a great deal? It's currently taking around 36 hours to fill an IBC from scratch.

 

TIA

Edit to add *** It'll be assembled inside a single garage, so need to bear that in mind**

Edited by wezza13
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9 hours ago, wezza13 said:

This will cover all bases, but.

I would recommend a 4040 but I wouldn't jump in until I was sure I needed an r/o to this spec. I would try to find out what the actual water pressure is at the new house first. If you can only do this once you move in then try to find another source of pure water in the meantime; ie. Spotless Water.

Booster pumps are noisy.

My 4040 produces around 2lpm of pure using an Axeon HF5 at 50 psi w/p without booster. The membrane is 8 years old and still producing at a rejection rate of 97%. It was 98% when new.

My system is also on a float switch with normally off solenoid valve. When the IBC tank is full the r/o switches off automatically. I don't need to be around to do this manually. Adding a booster pump will make this a little more complex.

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43 minutes ago, spruce said:

This will cover all bases, but.

I would recommend a 4040 but I wouldn't jump in until I was sure I needed an r/o to this spec. I would try to find out what the actual water pressure is at the new house first. If you can only do this once you move in then try to find another source of pure water in the meantime; ie. Spotless Water.

Booster pumps are noisy.

My 4040 produces around 2lpm of pure using an Axeon HF5 at 50 psi w/p without booster. The membrane is 8 years old and still producing at a rejection rate of 97%. It was 98% when new.

My system is also on a float switch with normally off solenoid valve. When the IBC tank is full the r/o switches off automatically. I don't need to be around to do this manually. Adding a booster pump will make this a little more complex.

Thanks Spruce. No spotless nearby but my mate is moving into my current house, so I can use water if I need it. We’re actually going back for another viewing to measure up for various things, so will check the water pressure whilst there.

Also, with that system being 2400gpd, I agree, I probably won’t need a booster pump. It’s a big upgrade on the one I’ve already got anyway. 
 

I always wanted to fit a float valve to my ibc but never got round to it. It fills up so slowly though, that I was always able to turn it off when near the top, without any wastage. Are they easy to fit? 

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22 hours ago, wezza13 said:

As the title says really. I currently use the 450 GPD unit from Pure Freedom ( https://purefreedom.co.uk/450-gpd-compact-reverse-osmosis-system.html ) and, whilst it does a good job, without a booster pump it takes ages to fill up a 1000 ltr IBC tank. 

We're in the process of buying a new house and, rather than removing and reassembling this one, it makes sense to get a system that produces pure a bit faster. Once we're in the new place, the next step is employing somebody full-time, so this will require access to more water at a faster rate.

Can anyone suggest an upgrade? I know @doug atkinson is someone that would have a good idea.

Also, I wonder if just adding a booster pump to the line will improve the water production a great deal? It's currently taking around 36 hours to fill an IBC from scratch.

 

TIA

Edit to add *** It'll be assembled inside a single garage, so need to bear that in mind**

I'd just add a booster pump, they aren't that noisy if maybe mounted on a board, more so maybe if it's mounted on the wall of a brick built garage,

Well I say that at the last house I had mine in a wooden shed mounted on a board and it was noticeably noisy as in 10-15 meters away but one neighbour was hard of hearing and the other had tinnitus,  but at this house I have mine mounted to the side of an old wardrobe made out of chipboard that we use for storage and I can barely here it if at all when outside in the garden, but ours is in a detached garage so not ajoining another garage either, for a £100 or so I'd give the booster pump a go. 

  • Agree 2
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On 28/05/2021 at 06:46, Iron Giant said:

I'd just add a booster pump, they aren't that noisy if maybe mounted on a board, more so maybe if it's mounted on the wall of a brick built garage,

Well I say that at the last house I had mine in a wooden shed mounted on a board and it was noticeably noisy as in 10-15 meters away but one neighbour was hard of hearing and the other had tinnitus,  but at this house I have mine mounted to the side of an old wardrobe made out of chipboard that we use for storage and I can barely here it if at all when outside in the garden, but ours is in a detached garage so not ajoining another garage either, for a £100 or so I'd give the booster pump a go. 

Thanks, I remember you saying about your booster pump before. It makes sense to try that first, whilst I'm at this house and can then time it and see how long it takes to fill the IBC. Cheers!

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@Iron Giant I’ve received the booster pump - any idea where I would need to situate it? Where have you situated yours?

On the Pure Freedom website, it says to place it between the pre filters and the membranes but, on my system (see pics attached), there is an outlet from the pre filters but it is quickly split into two. Both sides leading to 2 of the 3 membranes. 
 

Not quite sure where I would place the booster pump? They did send me a length of RO tube in case that helped.

Any ideas?

Tia.

Wez

9FFB62BA-57DF-4DB2-9A3C-6970F089BE87.jpeg

AF08CB16-E34A-42EC-BEB9-4408CA56C6DF.jpeg

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You really need to undo the tee out of filters and insert the pump between the out of the filters and the tee so it feeds all the membranes.

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@wezza13 do as @ched999uk has said, on my R/O I just have one piece of pipe going from pre filters to the first membrane, PF used to say you can run these pumps continuous you can't as they do warm, the longest I've run mine is about 1hr 30 minutes maybe a bit longer I have when needed just used a mechanical timer. 

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Posted (edited)
On 27/05/2021 at 18:45, Martyn said:

@spruce Out of curiosity what is your tap TDS and do you have a softener on your system?

Sorry, I missed your question.

Tap water tds usually is around 120 to 130ppm. It has been as low as 80 and as high as 150. Before there was some major pipe work upgrades some 10 years ago our water was 250ppm.

So no, due to our relatively soft water we don't need a softener. Our issue is still the amount of sediment that we have in our water. By the time my Fiberdyne carbon block has reached its service life the sediment filter is well clogged. It's better than it has been. I have extra sediment filters on hand as there were times when I replaced the sediment filter twice before the service life of the carbon block was up.

At one time I would only filter water through the night. I would fill the bath with cold water to check the sediment situation first. It wasn't just me. A couple of other wfpers had the same problem.

Edited by spruce
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23 hours ago, ched999uk said:

You really need to undo the tee out of filters and insert the pump between the out of the filters and the tee so it feeds all the membranes.

Thanks Ched. Hmm, I can’t see how to remove that tee section? It’s like a ball on the other end attaching it through the frame. I wish there was a simple piece of tube as the out. 

8 hours ago, Iron Giant said:

@wezza13 do as @ched999uk has said, on my R/O I just have one piece of pipe going from pre filters to the first membrane, PF used to say you can run these pumps continuous you can't as they do warm, the longest I've run mine is about 1hr 30 minutes maybe a bit longer I have when needed just used a mechanical timer. 

After the 1 and a half hours run time, how long do you leave the pump before turning it on again? I was under the impression that I could leave it running the whole time the ibc took to fill?

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13 minutes ago, wezza13 said:

Thanks Ched. Hmm, I can’t see how to remove that tee section? It’s like a ball on the other end attaching it through the frame. I wish there was a simple piece of tube as the out. 

After the 1 and a half hours run time, how long do you leave the pump before turning it on again? I was under the impression that I could leave it running the whole time the ibc took to fill?

Looks like the tee unscrews from filter from image above. Alternatively you could leave the tee and buy 2 new Tees. Then the 2 pipes out if the filter tee connect to a new tee to join them back. Then the output of that tee into the pump. Then out of pump into second new tee to you 2 membranes. 

As for pump if its the little 24volt one they normally say 45mins on 15mins off. I use a smart plug so I can set 45 on and 15 off in a loop but not all smartplugs can do this. 

Also I have found I couldn't just use a float valve in the tank. As when it gets full the pressure builds in ro and all water forced out through waste pipe. 

Just had delivered (15mins ago) float switch and relay to switch pump and water solynoid off when tank full. 

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1 hour ago, ched999uk said:

Looks like the tee unscrews from filter from image above. Alternatively you could leave the tee and buy 2 new Tees. Then the 2 pipes out if the filter tee connect to a new tee to join them back. Then the output of that tee into the pump. Then out of pump into second new tee to you 2 membranes. 

As for pump if its the little 24volt one they normally say 45mins on 15mins off. I use a smart plug so I can set 45 on and 15 off in a loop but not all smartplugs can do this. 

Also I have found I couldn't just use a float valve in the tank. As when it gets full the pressure builds in ro and all water forced out through waste pipe. 

Just had delivered (15mins ago) float switch and relay to switch pump and water solynoid off when tank full. 

That’s a good idea to buy two tees and do it that way. Makes sense. Cheers

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12 minutes ago, wezza13 said:

That’s a good idea to buy two tees and do it that way. Makes sense. Cheers

It's a bit more joints but it might just be easier. Good Luck.

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16 hours ago, wezza13 said:

After the 1 and a half hours run time, how long do you leave the pump before turning it on again? I was under the impression that I could leave it running the whole time the ibc took to fill?

A 15 minute rest is enough providing it has cooled down, you can set a timer switch to do 1hr on 15 minutes off, you will have to gauge just how fast the ibc fills so as to avoid flooding your garage, 

I don't use my booster that much these days as I tend to fill my static tank overnight as this works out best for me. 

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