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Fitting new system questions???


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Hi guys, as title. I fitted a system a few years ago, but I'm going to do things differently this time. I've got a 400 litre wyedale upright tank, and a safety cage on order from pure freedom. I'm going to fit a 2 kw immersion heater. I think it's obvious that I put the tank in the cage, and then fit the immersion, before having the safety cage bolted in the van. I'm going to Protectacote the van floor with 2 coats first. Do I mount the tank straight to the floor or on top of the ply lined board? How close to the bottom do you fit immersion? Is it as far as you can reach in from the lid, or close to the bottom and manoeuvred into place and tightened up from the outside? And finally, what do you guys use to insulate your tanks. TIA 👍

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I wouldn't use Protectacote and definitely wouldn't have any ply on the van floor. The rest I'll leave to those that have done this type of thing themselves.

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As @Part Timer says no ply needed in the floor but protecta coat isn’t very good see if anyone in your area does  line x , or speedliner  it’s very good stuff will cost more to do but worth it in the long run .  Think @Den is the one to ask about immersion heater as he has fitted one in his van recently 

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Thanks guys. I don't have anything to compare Protectacote to, but I've had it in my van for the past five years, and everything is sound. Fab about the ply, as I'll start the day close to the payload. Using an immersion for the first time, as it seems the more experienced guys say it make life easier, which is my goal 👍

Ps, I would have explored the other options, but I've already purchased the Protectacote 😳

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On 31/05/2021 at 18:45, Jonny 67 said:

Hi guys, as title. I fitted a system a few years ago, but I'm going to do things differently this time. I've got a 400 litre wyedale upright tank, and a safety cage on order from pure freedom. I'm going to fit a 2 kw immersion heater. I think it's obvious that I put the tank in the cage, and then fit the immersion, before having the safety cage bolted in the van. I'm going to Protectacote the van floor with 2 coats first. Do I mount the tank straight to the floor or on top of the ply lined board? How close to the bottom do you fit immersion? Is it as far as you can reach in from the lid, or close to the bottom and manoeuvred into place and tightened up from the outside? And finally, what do you guys use to insulate your tanks. TIA 👍

Are you sure you can safely install the tank and immersion heater. You have one chance to cut a clean hole. Get a immersion heater spanner and gaffa tape a steel tube onto the handle so you tighten it correctly

I personally wouldn't waste money on painting your vans floor

With any van i get i simply ensure the floor is clean and with an oiled rag wipe over it them play line the floor and rubber mat it. Never seen a van floor rust out and the various Protective paints are pointless in my opinion

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Thanks Apw, but I'd definitely feel better with the extra protection on the floor. I can always check with an old timer who runs a plumbing merchants I use about immersion, was trying to save time as he no longer opens on Saturday, so I'll go and see him in the week 👍

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1 hour ago, Jonny 67 said:

Thanks Apw, but I'd definitely feel better with the extra protection on the floor. I can always check with an old timer who runs a plumbing merchants I use about immersion, was trying to save time as he no longer opens on Saturday, so I'll go and see him in the week 👍

A few millimetres of textured paint really doesn't offer any protection. The corrugated design of a van floor is simply designed to add lateral strength to a sheet of 2mm steel. Painting it then dragging equipment over it is something I can't quite understand

Thats my tuppence worth of option

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Are most vans floors not galvanised these days?

If they are then all that they need is protection from things scratching the floors.

OK so some don't like ply as it can hold water but it is good at protecting the paint and galvanisation provided that the screw holes for the ply are sealed to prevent rust!! I suppose ply slows down evaporation from any leaks and drips if it were to make it's way under the ply. 

Part of the reason steel is painted is to eliminate oxygen as that is required to rust! So as long as you protect the steel from scratching you should be fine.

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If it were me, I'd coat the floor with Waxoil or something similar on the fairly sure assumption that some water will get through to the floor at some time. Then I'd cover the floor with a one piece rubber mat coming up the side slightly to protect the floor from scratching. I'd put strong rubber mats in areas of severe traffic or wear. I'd leave spillways in the under mat at the doors.

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I agree that most new vans are galvanised these days. But there are still some old vans that aren't mainly in the south of the country.

 

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I saw on here that someone mentioned some sort of modern tank insulation, to wrap around the tank. I can't find it by searching. Any help would be appreciated 👍

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4 minutes ago, Jonny 67 said:

I saw on here that someone mentioned some sort of modern tank insulation, to wrap around the tank. I can't find it by searching. Any help would be appreciated 👍

There are many forms of tank insulation

 

Don't you have a screwfix and toolstation catalogue next to your toilet roll at home

Radiator thermo foil reflector roll

Bubble wrap

Loft header tank insulation kits

A king-size duvet cut in half and secured by pallet wrap

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Some people have used a sort of foil backed bubble wrap, they report it works well. I have looked into this type of insulation a few times for different projects but each time I fail to find any official insulation properties values like U value or R value so I am a little suspicious. The aluminium foil is a great conductor of heat, so if you overlap then you have destroyed any insulating properties it had. 

The most efficient insulation is the pu based hard foam stuff but it is not great to fit round a tank and frame, plus it's not cheap. Polystyrene sheets are quite good at insulating and cheap but again not an easy fit for a tank and frame. 

One other thing to consider is under the tank as that will be in direct contact with the steel of the van floor. Ideally you need to insulate the bottom, maybe thick rubber mat would help.

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45 minutes ago, ched999uk said:

Some people have used a sort of foil backed bubble wrap, they report it works well. I have looked into this type of insulation a few times for different projects but each time I fail to find any official insulation properties values like U value or R value so I am a little suspicious. The aluminium foil is a great conductor of heat, so if you overlap then you have destroyed any insulating properties it had. 

The most efficient insulation is the pu based hard foam stuff but it is not great to fit round a tank and frame, plus it's not cheap. Polystyrene sheets are quite good at insulating and cheap but again not an easy fit for a tank and frame. 

One other thing to consider is under the tank as that will be in direct contact with the steel of the van floor. Ideally you need to insulate the bottom, maybe thick rubber mat would help.

Thin wall insulation board like celotex is great and also budget tesco children's jigsaw flooring tile

One of my tanks is still wrapped in the thick bubble wrap from tanks.co.uk and covered with loft header tank wrap

Just to keep the summer heat from cooking my water in summer and to maintain a thermal balance in winter

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1 hour ago, Jonny 67 said:

I saw on here that someone mentioned some sort of modern tank insulation, to wrap around the tank. I can't find it by searching. Any help would be appreciated 👍

Just a polite heads up for you. It's easy to come on here and think straight away that there is trade specific pieces of kit however getting your head around the DIY & construction industry will save you money and broaden your horizons for common solutions

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