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Hi need some help I am starting off in window cleaning in Peterborough

Makeurmarkcleaing

New member
Messages
17
Location
Peterborough
Just purchased this to start me off I know it’s not the best I would like some advice on putting it together and  what Will I need extra has there’s no controls I would like to a stop and automatically would add some more filters to it ? 

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Good afternoon.

It's not a bad system if it holds and pumps water.

I'd personally strip the flush mount connector panel of It's fittings then bin it.

There's no need to hack anymore holes in a van.

Talking about vans, I hope you have one that can legally accommodate the system and it's weight along with yourself and all associated cleaning equipment.

I'm sure a local window cleaner would help you out for beer money

What is your water quality like near you?

Do you intend to produce water at home or purchase from spotless?

Have you a reputable TDS tester?

You'll most likely need new resin etc.

I recommend you read up on water fed pole van mounted system and familiarise yourself with all the component parts so you know what they are.

The Brodex website along with this forum would be good reading

 
Good afternoon.

It's not a bad system if it holds and pumps water.

I'd personally strip the flush mount connector panel of It's fittings then bin it.

There's no need to hack anymore holes in a van.

Talking about vans, I hope you have one that can legally accommodate the system and it's weight along with yourself and all associated cleaning equipment.

I'm sure a local window cleaner would help you out for beer money

What is your water quality like near you?

Do you intend to produce water at home or purchase from spotless?

Have you a reputable TDS tester?

You'll most likely need new resin etc.

I recommend you read up on water fed pole van mounted system and familiarise yourself with all the component parts so you know what they are.

The Brodex website along with this forum would be good reading


Good afternoon.

It's not a bad system if it holds and pumps water.

I'd personally strip the flush mount connector panel of It's fittings then bin it.

There's no need to hack anymore holes in a van.

Talking about vans, I hope you have one that can legally accommodate the system and it's weight along with yourself and all associated cleaning equipment.

I'm sure a local window cleaner would help you out for beer money

What is your water quality like near you?

Do you intend to produce water at home or purchase from spotless?

Have you a reputable TDS tester?

You'll most likely need new resin etc.

I recommend you read up on water fed pole van mounted system and familiarise yourself with all the component parts so you know what they are.

The Brodex website along with this forum would be good reading
Hi mate thanks for your help I have no problem with van 31/2 tons I would like to make my own from home 

 
Hi mate thanks for your help I have no problem with van 31/2 tons I would like to make my own from home 
The first step would be to test your home tds and also water pressure at the tap you'll intend to use for water production.

An HM digital TDS- 3 tester is the first tool you'll need to start your journey

https://www.daqua.co.uk/testmeters.htm

When you know your TDS total dissolved solids PPM parts per million reading that will determine your production setup

All other relevant information is all here on the forum

Austin

 
Hi what beast make of  TDS tester should I buy ? 
 
HM Digital TDS-3 Handheld Meter With Carrying Case

As per post above by Austin. Purchase from Daqua.

Then a water pressure gauge from Screwfix once you have ascertained tap water tds if you are going down r/o route.

 
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Hi Also I think of getting one of these first of all will I need  have a pump to push water through with the pressure I’ve got ? 

With thanks 

Mark 

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Membranes I have been asked to run water through so I have done reading 055 i think its good from 328 ? 1 litre in about 2 1/2 minutes  what’s your thoughts ? 
 

 
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Membranes I have been asked to run water through so I have done reading 055 i think its good from 328 ? 1 litre in about 2 1/2  what’s your thoughts ? 
 
055 is not good but @spruce is the man to explain your rejection rate in % terms at that level you will be using a lot of resin .

 
055 is not good but @spruce is the man to explain your rejection rate in % terms at that level you will be using a lot of resin .
You will always assume that anyone buying a used r/o will have to replace membranes and prefilters. These are expensive and is probably the reason why the original owner decided to sell it. (Experience.)

For a membrane to be working efficiently it needs the correct water pressure for the make and variant of the membrane. It also needs sufficient water flow at that pressure.

The membrane needs to have a pure to waste ratio of around 2 waste to 1 pure whilst producing water. It needs to be tuned to find it's sweet spot. You might be able to get the waste down to 1.5 to 1 pure. When making small adjustments to the waste gate/valve you need to wait a while before taking a reading. This allows enough time for the r/o to settle down.

An efficiently performing membrane will remove around 97 to 98% of the impurities in the water. When the efficiently gets to around 94% then you should consider replacing the membrane.

At 55ppm before resin your r/o is only 83% efficient. The pure leaving your r/o should be around 10ppm or lower.

It's important to know your water pressure. An Axeon HF4 needs a higher water pressure that an HF5. My HF5 is happy with 50psi. An hf4 needs around 80psi

Brodex only provide 1 prefilter. They fit a sediment into it. They don't fit a carbon block as they expect not using one will reduce membranes longevity and lead to increased sales.

You can take the sediment filter out and replace it with a Fiberdyne carbon block which can act as a sediment filter combo.

You also need to strip the di vessel down and check it very thoroughly. Brodex like to not fit a sealing o ring in the filter head where the pipe to the lower basket fits into the head. This gives the indication that the resin is depleted as all the resin in the Di vessel isn't being used.

 
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You will always assume that anyone selling a used r/o strength will have to replace membranes and prefilters. These are expensive and is probably the reason why the original owner decided to sell it. (Experience.)

For a membrane to be working efficiently it need the correct water pressure for the make and variant of the membrane. It also needs sufficient water flow at that pressure.

The membrane needs to have a pure to waste ratio of around 2 waste to 1 pure whilst producing water. It needs to be tuned to find it's sweet spot.

An efficiently performing membrane will remove around 97 to 98% of the impurities in the water. When the efficiently gets to around 94% then you should consider replacing the membrane.

At 55ppm before resin your r/o is only 83% efficient. The pure leaving your r/o should be around 10ppm or lower.

It's important to know your water pressure. An Axeon HF4 need a higher water pressure that an HF5. My HF5 is happy with 50psi. An hf4 needs around 80psi

Brodex only provide 1 prefilter. They fit a sediment into it. They don't fit a carbon block as they expect not using one will reduce membranes longevity and lead to increased sales.

You can take the sediment filter out and replace it with a Fiberdyne carbon block which can act as a sediment filter combo.

You also need to strip the di vessel down and check it very thoroughly. Brodex like to not fit a sealing o ring in the filter head where the pipe to the lower basket fits into the head. This gives the indication that the resin is depleted as all the resin in the Di vessel isn't being used.
Ok not good new in some way but leaning curve I thought would need 3 stage filter be for the membrane any way may be will have to replaced it has Well I really appreciate your time explaining this tho thanks 

 
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