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Fuse board problems

Jamesmarshall

Active member
Messages
330
Location
Midlands
Seen a few videos on YouTube with guys having a kind of fuse board and then having one feed to the battery for 2 pumps electric reel etc

fed up of having multiple battery connections making things look messy and cables everywhere

how do I go about this ? Making everything go into one feed to the battery?

 
I have all mine going through a fuse board I got a friend to wire it up he’s a marine electrician, if anything goes wrong it’s easy to just replace a fuse or trace any problems, but so far have never had any issues as he wired it up . 

Yes that’s similar to mine they come in all shapes and sizes not expensive either 

 
The description on eBay link doesn’t really explain how to wire it if it’s how I stated above then I’ll order one now currently got a 4 way battery terminal and there a pain in the ash

 
The description on eBay link doesn’t really explain how to wire it if it’s how I stated above then I’ll order one now currently got a 4 way battery terminal and there a pain in the ash
You will need the appropriate fuse fir the item being connected to the fuse box , if you are unsure I would get an auto electrician to do it for you 

 
You will need the appropriate fuse fir the item being connected to the fuse box , if you are unsure I would get an auto electrician to do it for you 
I have a friend who is and if I come unstuck I will ask for help I just don’t want to come accross thick if it’s that easy ?

 
I have a friend who is and if I come unstuck I will ask for help I just don’t want to come accross thick if it’s that easy ?
I come from a motor trade background and could have wired up my own vans but decided to get it done by a qualified electrician as he does  it every day on super yachts so the vans are a piece of cake and it saves me time fiddling around ????

 
I come from a motor trade background and could have wired up my own vans but decided to get it done by a qualified electrician as he does  it every day on super yachts so the vans are a piece of cake and it saves me time fiddling around ????
Taking your advice mate not worth frying the battery’s or something worse 

just reminded me when I very first started 

on my first van my van battery had died so I tried to use my leisure battery only it wouldn’t fit the same way so turned it around and connected it neg-pos and vice versa. Caused a fire under the bonnet and fried the alternator 

prob best I leave it to the pros ??

 
Taking your advice mate not worth frying the battery’s or something worse 

just reminded me when I very first started 

on my first van my van battery had died so I tried to use my leisure battery only it wouldn’t fit the same way so turned it around and connected it neg-pos and vice versa. Caused a fire under the bonnet and fried the alternator 

prob best I leave it to the pros ??
Especially be careful of connecting the controller s  the wrong way round as unless it’s a v16 it will kill them and be a costly mistake ????

 
Remember if you use a fuse board then the cable going from battery to it must be big enough to carry all the current! Plus you must have a fuse right next to the battery terminal to protect the cable feeding the fuse board! 

If in doubt get some one who knows what they are doing to do it.

 
Seen a few videos on YouTube with guys having a kind of fuse board and then having one feed to the battery for 2 pumps electric reel etc

fed up of having multiple battery connections making things look messy and cables everywhere

how do I go about this ? Making everything go into one feed to the battery?
For starters stay away from any Chinese junk boat Amazon or eBay so called camper rv boat 4x4 off grid fuse board switch panels as the wiring is poor, the connections are low quality tinned copper and burn out.

This is my auxiliary 12v fuse distribution I've custom made for my new van

110aH battery with split charge system then the battery powers my fuse box with all the positive feed linked together using correct gauge wiring 

At the moment I have my Spring Europe Ltd V16 controller and an additional 12v accessory socket mounted in the rear of the van for work light, tyre inflator or beacons etc 

Clean safe & tidy 

20210914_234428.jpg

20210914_234414.jpg

 
For starters stay away from any Chinese junk boat Amazon or eBay so called camper rv boat 4x4 off grid fuse board switch panels as the wiring is poor, the connections are low quality tinned copper and burn out.

This is my auxiliary 12v fuse distribution I've custom made for my new van

110aH battery with split charge system then the battery powers my fuse box with all the positive feed linked together using correct gauge wiring 

At the moment I have my Spring Europe Ltd V16 controller and an additional 12v accessory socket mounted in the rear of the van for work light, tyre inflator or beacons etc 

Clean safe & tidy 

View attachment 25536

View attachment 25537
Impressively neat and tidy

doesn’t really look all that complicated 

I have lots of sealed fuse holders that I could use and varying fuse sizes 

@ched999ukwhat size cable would be needed for 2 pumps electric reel and split charge relay? Just combine all the amp ratings of everything and use a cable that’s over that?

 
Impressively neat and tidy

doesn’t really look all that complicated 

I have lots of sealed fuse holders that I could use and varying fuse sizes 

@ched999ukwhat size cable would be needed for 2 pumps electric reel and split charge relay? Just combine all the amp ratings of everything and use a cable that’s over that?
33 Amp cable. 44/0.30mm, 3 mm2, 33 amps. Outside diameter including insulation 3.2mm 

Available in figure 8 configuration with red and black conductors 

You'd need two runs of each per pump and controller circuit 

Split charge requires a minimum of 16mm2 for battery to charger and so on for both conductors 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
@ched999ukwhat size cable would be needed for 2 pumps electric reel and split charge relay? Just combine all the amp ratings of everything and use a cable that’s over that?
Yep, and fuse appropriately at battery end. Reason being, the van bodywork is all connected to the battery -ve, so if something metal shorts the +ve cable to the chassis and there is no fuse next to the battery then the full battery current flows through the cable and would cause a fire!!! 

 
33 Amp cable. 44/0.30mm, 3 mm2, 33 amps. Outside diameter including insulation 3.2mm 

Available in figure 8 configuration with red and black conductors 

You'd need two runs of each per pump and controller circuit 

Split charge requires a minimum of 16mm2 for battery to charger and so on for both conductors 
If your van is pre 2016 you can get away with a durite split charge system and newer euro 6 vans require a B2B or back to back charger such as a victron 12/12/30 

All split charge systems are live from the starter battery to VSR via a fuse then VSR to the secondary battery via a fuse when wired correctly 

20210915_001609.jpg

20210915_001622.jpg

 
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