Double Di issues

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Hi all, I have recently gone to double Di with a tap reading of 079 TDS so I thought it would be perfect for me!!! it was working well filling my tank with tap water inline filter, Shureflo pump and 2 11L vessels. However I noticed fine particles of resin getting on the windows which when left it had to be scrapped off and when it dried on my brown upvc sill it dries yellowish and only comes off with solvent. As I was using older Di vessels I bought new but still have the same problem so I have tried the finest copper gauze at a filter just before the reel with no improvement.
I bought a good brand of virgin mixed bed resin which I expected to be beads but the particles coming through do not have the feeling of beads and are making their way through the baskets and up the risers which themselves have a copper gauze.
I was led to understand nothing should be coming through which is why I bought new vessels, heads and risers, I have also in testing tried each vessel on their own with no luck.
my next step is to reduce the pipe fittings from 12mm hozelock to 6 or 8 mm John guest fittings, I don't have any pressure problems but am just at a loss at what to do.
should I be looking at the equipment or is it possibly the resin? is there a resin available that has a constant size bead that would not flow through the basket/riser out to the glass? Should I expect issues with the vessels being fixed in the van?
Giving a thorough rinse with pencil jets ( time consuming ) reduces the particles on the glass but as any left can dry in the sun I feel over time these will just accumulate and will need scraping off.
Thank's for taking the time to read and I look forward to any advice to help resolve this issue.

 

[Iron Giant]

Sounds like you ain't got the riser tube and head seated correctly, do you know how to fill a resin vessel correctly just ignore the bit about filling with pure water as tap water is going to be going through it anyway

 

[Part Timer]

Are they connected correctly, there are arrows for the in and out pipes. Personally I would always DI the water into the van tank

 

[THL4KEL]

What brand of resin are you using?

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Sounds like you ain't got the riser tube and head seated correctly, do you know how to fill a resin vessel correctly just ignore the bit about filling with pure water as tap water is going to be going through it anyway

riser is seated to its maximum fit, nice tight fit on the ring. I scooped the resin straight into the vessels the shoulder, filled with water with allowed the easing in of the riser.

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

What brand of resin are you using?

Unger 115mb virgin mixed bed.

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Are they connected correctly, there are arrows for the in and out pipes. Personally I would always DI the water into the van tank

correctly connected and flowing the correct way, would replacing ½ hose connections with John Guest connections and 6mm hose help?

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Sounds like you ain't got the riser tube and head seated correctly, do you know how to fill a resin vessel correctly just ignore the bit about filling with pure water as tap water is going to be going through it anyway

I question his fill hight in this video as I have unanimously read and watched it should be to ytyhe vessel shoulder.

 

[doug atkinson]

Unger has some issues some time back with the resin beads being too fine mesh and was passing through the bottom strainer. The only thing that would stop it was Flowjet in line strainers after DI.

 

[Iron Giant]

I question his fill hight in this video as I have unanimously read and watched it should be to ytyhe vessel shoulder.

It is up to the shoulder in the video, you'll see that once he pours the water into the vessel the resin drops down,

In all honesty in years gone by I found processing water with a DI a complete ? ache it was far too much faff and aggro ultimately it's far more costly long-term with a tap tds of 079ppm which is similar to my tap tds even if someone gave me a lifetimes supply of resin and two vessels for free I wouldn't ever go DI again

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Good evening all,
I've been having a headache with double Di running tank, pump. 2 Di vessels then hose. Gave my tank a clean out and there was plenty of resin in there, is there a connector that can stop this? Thanks.

 

[Part Timer]

Good evening all,
I've been having a headache with double Di running tank, pump. 2 Di vessels then hose. Gave my tank a clean out and there was plenty of resin in there, is there a connector that can stop this? Thanks.

I know I asked this before but are you sure you have the in and out pipes connected correctly. The only way I know of resin getting into the tank is if they're plumbed up the wrong way.

 

[Iron Giant]

Just re-read your post, I think you need to double-check everything also I don't understand why you are double DI in the van from the off you only introduce the second DI when the tds starts rising with the production of the single DI

There is clearly an issue which needs resolving and until you have sussed it out I wouldn't be filling your van tank with tap water and crossing your fingers that resin won't be going into the tank, I'd remove both DI's from your van and test each DI on its own by producing just into a bucket or trug as just one DI may be at fault, one thing to note is if you have bought second hand/reconditioned DI'd of eBay they have been known to be faulty in the past

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

I know I asked this before but are you sure you have the in and out pipes connected correctly. The only way I know of resin getting into the tank is if they're plumbed up the wrong way.

Absolutely connected correctly, I have new vessels heads risers and resin. still the same issue but a more detailed reply to Iron Giants reply.

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Just re-read your post, I think you need to double-check everything also I don't understand why you are double DI in the van from the off you only introduce the second DI when the tds starts rising with the production of the single DI

There is clearly an issue which needs resolving and until you have sussed it out I wouldn't be filling your van tank with tap water and crossing your fingers that resin won't be going into the tank, I'd remove both DI's from your van and test each DI on its own by producing just into a bucket or trug as just one DI may be at fault, one thing to note is if you have bought second hand/reconditioned DI'd of eBay they have been known to be faulty in the past

I've completed the tests you described, I have new vessels, heads and risers with new resin Indion. In the van the pump built up it's pressure and cut out as expected but when I start my water flow it has a lot of resin on the glass but does clear eventually if left running.
removed both vessels from van and connected to the tap at a flow rate to give my fan jets a expected flow. works well until I cut off the flow, when I restart the flow there is the initial blast of higher pressure which then eases to the normal flow but resin comes out for a couple off minutes but will eventually flow clear.
I am for now going to get it to this stage and fill my tank but I really do want to work double di from my van.

my conclusion so far is that when the vessels are at full pressure the resin will escape when starting the flow but once floweing for a few minutes it will work as expected.
I am also going to carry on testing and will be trying the pump after the di vessel today and a differen pump.

 

[doug atkinson]

Is it actually resin on the glass and not grit.

 

[ched999uk]

removed both vessels from van and connected to the tap at a flow rate to give my fan jets a expected flow. works well until I cut off the flow, when I restart the flow there is the initial blast of higher pressure which then eases to the normal flow but resin comes out for a couple off minutes but will eventually flow clear.

Are you using a flow controller or just relying on the pumps pressure cut off? If you are using a flow controller then you might need to calibrate the dead end detection as it sounds like it's set way too high if you are getting an initial blast when restarting the flow. Not that high pressure should cause resin beads to escape the vessel and get on the glass but it might not be helping.

 

[Iron Giant]

I've completed the tests you described, I have new vessels, heads and risers with new resin Indion. In the van the pump built up it's pressure and cut out as expected but when I start my water flow it has a lot of resin on the glass but does clear eventually if left running.
removed both vessels from van and connected to the tap at a flow rate to give my fan jets a expected flow. works well until I cut off the flow, when I restart the flow there is the initial blast of higher pressure which then eases to the normal flow but resin comes out for a couple off minutes but will eventually flow clear.
I am for now going to get it to this stage and fill my tank but I really do want to work double di from my van.

my conclusion so far is that when the vessels are at full pressure the resin will escape when starting the flow but once floweing for a few minutes it will work as expected.
I am also going to carry on testing and will be trying the pump after the di vessel today and a differen pump.

You shouldn't be getting that high pressure blast, your Cal setting could be too high but also the possibility of air in the system when running double DI and working with pressure build up you want to ensure that all hozelock style fittings are very good ones such as brass ones as the plastic ones will fail sooner than you think

Hopefully other members may be able to offer some more help

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Is it actually resin on the glass and not grit.

Definitely resin.

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Are you using a flow controller or just relying on the pumps pressure cut off? If you are using a flow controller then you might need to calibrate the dead end detection as it sounds like it's set way too high if you are getting an initial blast when restarting the flow. Not that high pressure should cause resin beads to escape the vessel and get on the glass but it might not be helping.

I have for four years just run it as a delivery system and spotless water fill ups, I am using just a flow regulator not a controller. it worked well as a delivery system but should I be getting a programable controller?
don't suppose this is any good

12V Water Fed Pole WFP/Window Cleaning REMOTE CONTROL/WIRELESS Flow Controller | eBay

Simply connect the negative and positive from your pump to the unit and the negative and positive from your battery and away you go! Adjustable digital flow from 0-100. (Remote, Battery & Instructions Included).

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[ched999uk]

I have for four years just run it as a delivery system and spotless water fill ups, I am using just a flow regulator not a controller. it worked well as a delivery system but should I be getting a programable controller?
don't suppose this is any good

12V Water Fed Pole WFP/Window Cleaning REMOTE CONTROL/WIRELESS Flow Controller | eBay

Simply connect the negative and positive from your pump to the unit and the negative and positive from your battery and away you go! Adjustable digital flow from 0-100. (Remote, Battery & Instructions Included).

www.ebay.co.uk

The controller you linked to I think is similar to what you are currently using as in it relies on the pumps built in pressure switch to stop the pump. What this means is that the pressure in your DI and hoses will be up around 100psi when you shutoff your flow to your brush. A Spring controller (most window cleaning suppliers have their own branded versions - look for V16) can be calibrated to detect when you close off the flow to the brush and not over pressurise the system. So when you open the flow you won't get a big burst of flow. The V16 type controllers are kinder to your pump and will use less battery power.

I'm not predicting that a V16 controller will solve your problem.
I assume after you bought the new heads and tubes you flushed out your hose as it might still have resin beads in? Do you still get the same issue if you just use a single DI? Swap both to check.