Welcome to the UK Window Cleaning Forums

Starting or own a window cleaning business? We're a network of window cleaners sharing advice, tips & experience. Rounds for sale & more. Join us today!

Going to go hot wfp ...some heater thoughts and questions

WCF

Help Support WCF:

trickydicky

Well-known member
Messages
62
I am away to purchase my first wfp system and have decided as i will be doing mainly conservatorys and fascias i feel hot water will benefit me.

Being in a very soft water area i will be using a DI vessel....I have a couple of questions.

As a lot of the initial cleaning can be done with non pure which i want hot is it easy enough to rig up so i can switch between hot normal and hot pure and also the option of running it cold.

I will be using a 250 baffled upright being fed usually by the customers tap and a heater (lpg) similar to smurfs new 8l one.

Will there be any issues with me having to use the DI before the heater or anything else that you guys think would crop up using this type of set up.

I was going to go down a trolley route and wondered if i can still do this just hook it up to the heater when wanting hot or am i better just installing everything in the van.

I will not be doing windows so will only have one or 2 set ups a day,

 
I use a water heater either using tap water or pure no probs.

I never tried it with a di before the pump though in the van as the water in the tank is already pure but should work the same. Might need to adjust the flow controller a wee bit more though if need be but would be no big deal I would have thaught

 
Thanks for the reply. Can i run the hose straight into the di vessel or heater or do i need to use the water tank ?

When you used the heater on a trolley was it a pain in the ass re weight. I like the idea of having the hot water unit outwith the van when its on.

 
I was advised to have the heater after the di vessel ...Is there a reason to have it before the di ?..The reason i ask is i have a thought that i can make up a wfp trolley which can then be left in van when i want hot water. This would mean that i would have to just hook up the di vessel exit hose to the heater for when i want hot and hook hose up to heater exit . This way i can use it as a trolley for when i require that.

Am i missing something or would this work ?

 
Myself I would have the di tank before the heater not after as I would prefer not to put hot water through the resin.

container/van tank

pump

di tank

heater

reel

 
I have the heater mounted on the back of my purefreedom trolley and the gas tank where the container would normally sit (strapped in) when using the trolley in the van sucking water from either of my van tanks. If I decide I want to just use tap water to save using pure on plastics etc and the customer has an outside tap I just swap the the water heater inlet hose over to use a garden hose instead.

 
But I would not fancy humping that lot about as using a trolley is bad enough let alone having the extra weight of a gas bottle & heater

 
Thanks for the replies. The more i think about it there doesnt seem much point spending time and money building a trolley system if im going down this hot water route. I think i will just van mount the wfp gear .

So is it possible to just connect the garden hose to the DI if i want pure and then bypass the DI if wanting normal by just using the garden hose or do i need a tank...?

 
The only issue i can see is having to leave the van doors open/unlocked as running hoses from back of van. I suppose with a trolley system for wfp and a heater trolley as long as you can use direct to customers garden hose will eliminate this and also have the gas etc in the fresh air,....decisions decisions !

 
you can if you want install van ports on the oustside of the van also vent the heater through the roof

 
Yeah i was just out for a walk to think this over and that was the logical thing re ports on side of van..

I wouldnt have an issue cutting a flue hole in the roof..Also am i supposed to vent the gas through the floor ?

 
Ideally the gas tank/s should be strapped into a fire proof metal box which is vented through the floor.

.

 
Yeah i was just out for a walk to think this over and that was the logical thing re ports on side of van..I wouldnt have an issue cutting a flue hole in the roof..Also am i supposed to vent the gas through the floor ?
Leaking gas would go to the floor, so a hole or two would be useful, although you should have some anyway to let out water in case of a water spillage

 
Leaking gas would go to the floor, so a hole or two would be useful, although you should have some anyway to let out water in case of a water spillage
If it was in a leak proof box then no water would be in there in the first place. /emoticons/wink.png

 
Yeah a few small holes drilled in box and floor sounds like a plan. Re flooding van ..My mates works daily with fibreglass and is going to fibreglass the metal floor for 60 quid so hopefully should be able to get any overspilll out easy enough.

On that note is there a ballcock type valve that can be utilised to auto cut off water coming from the hose ?

 
Regarding ballcock type vales most good wfp suppliers sell them or have a look on fleebay

 
You can use a standard plumbing ballcock. Just make sure it has a 3/4 inch BSP or even 1/2 inch BSP end so you can screw on a hozelock male fitting for attaching your hose to.

You can even get ballcocks that allow you to fit them on the top rather than the side of your tank. I fitted on on the lid of mine. I got it from ebay, off a water purifying specialist seller I think.

 
I wanna go heated but I don't want a gas bottle in my van or cut a hole in the roof for ventilation so I suppose I can't do it [emoji57]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Back
Top