Clarke CBM240E booster pump fittings help please

[jason1965]

I have just bought one of these booster pumps today Clarke CBM240E 1" Multi Stage 230V Booster Pump, i really need some advice on fittings, it has 1" inlets and outlets, as i would like to connect this between my pre filters and the 4040 membrane, which have standard hose pipe and hoselock connecters and i think the hose pipe is 15mm, i was wondering how to reduce the size, and it says on the instructions if you reduce the inlet to much it will affect performance, and may defeat the objective, So please could anyone help, and if you have used one of these how did you set it up, and if you did reduce the size to standard hosepipe fittings has it worked okay. Many thanks.

 

[spruce]

2 x 1" to 1/2" reducing bush

Female to Male Reducing Bush - Screw Thread Fittings - Fittings, Barbs, Adapters, Etc - Hose Fittings & Adapters - Pump & Hose - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

2 x 1/2" push - fit to 1/2" male screw BSPT thread

John Guest 1/2" Push-Fit to 1/2" Male Screw BSPT Thread - 1/2" Fittings - John Guest Fittings - Hose Fittings & Adapters - Pump & Hose - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

2 x 1/2" stem to 1/2" barb

1/2" John Guest Stem to 1/2" Barb - 1/2" Fittings - John Guest Fittings - Hose Fittings & Adapters - Pump & Hose - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

1/2" reinforced hose as required with hose clamps.

 

[jason1965]

Hello Spruce did it affect performance at all reducing the inlet from 1" to 1/2 inch.

 

[jason1965]

And are these all metal fittings or plastic, Spruce just asking because of tds

 

[jason1965]

I have just looked at the inlet and outlet and it looks more like 1 1/2 " im confuesed

 

[spruce]

Hello Spruce did it affect performance at all reducing the inlet from 1" to 1/2 inch.

Providing you have a pretty good flow at the tap then I don't believe you will have much of a problem.

Working under perfect conditions the specs say a 4040 will produce 6 lpm of pure. If you have a 50 50 pure to waste ratio then you will use 12 lpm of water. Our garden tap produced 13 lpm at 40 psi. The water board has since raised the pressure by 10 psi so that flow will be up a bit from 13 lpm. I think I read somewhere that 15 lpm was the idea flow rate from the tap when connecting a booster pump to a 4040 r/o.

Those fittings are plastic and are the ones Alex advised another poster a couple of years ago.

You can change the reducer to 1" male to 1/2" female brass reducer and order a brass 1/2" male hose tail with 1/2" male hose barb.

This pump will deliver up to 101 lpm. If you want an output volume of around this then you can't use a 1" to 1/2" reducer, as you will never achieve a flow of that much water through a 1/2" pipe.

I found a spec on the booster that you ordered. It has a max pressure of 8 bar so you may need to consider some high pressure 1/2" hose from the pump to the r/o inlet. (8 bar is 112 psi.)

The tds of the tap water will make no difference to the plastic fittings. Its the pressure that's the deciding factor.

The specs say its 1". The parts manual says its 1" so I presume its 1". If you are measuring the diamt of the inlet and outlet then it is bigger than 1". The experts tell us that its 1.309".

-

 

[jason1965]

Thanks Spruce for all you time and research. very very helpful. i will go to pluming supplies tomorrow.

 

[camcap]

Thanks Spruce for all you time and research. very very helpful. i will go to pluming supplies tomorrow.

Did you get this up and running if so how's it going as looking like I need a booster pump

 

[jason1965]

Hello Cam yes it up and running and very very good, if you check hear over the weekend i will put up all the stats, and how i fitted it and hopefully a few pics.

 

[jason1965]

Good afternoon all, test result and set up of my booster pump, i hope this helps, i am not saying i have done this perfect, but its working and that all i wanted, to produce pure water quicker.

First of all i will talk about the set up, i have a friend who is an industrial pipe fitter, and i ask for his advice about setting this up.

The first thing he said was the pump will only work to its maximum if it is get enough water, and the second thing he said was any leakage from fittings will also affect performance and the third thing he said was try not to reduce the inlet pipe bye more than 1 size down so here is what i did after my friends advice.

The outlet and inlet on the pump is 1" female thread, i have positioned the pump between my 20" carbon filter and the 4040 ro, luckily for me, the fitting for the 20" housing is a 3/4 female thread, so i bought a 3/4" male x 3/4 hose tail, and that was connected to the 20" carbon filter outlet housing, the fitting to connect to the pump strainer is a 1" male thread x 3/4" hose tail, so now i had the fitting for the water feed, ptfe tape and jubilee clips x 2 3/4 ", the hose i have used is 3/4 " reinforced hose, i didnt really need the hose to be reinforced, but as i had to buy it in metre lengths, i got 3 metres 25 bar rating. The fitting from the outlet is again 1"male x 3/4 hose tail and now it changes i will explain later, i got a 1/2" female threaded T connector the feed from the pump is a 1/2" male x 3/4 hose tail, so i connected the 1/2" male thread to the bottom of the T connector, and again and this was IMPORTANT connected the 3/4" reinforced hose between the two again with jubilee clips and ptfe tape. The t piece of the fitting, i got a 1/2" x 1/4" male thread reducer, and this is for the pressure gauge The top of the t connector i use 1/2 male x 1/2 hose tail and the outlet from the ro is a STRIGHT 1/2" male x 1/2 hose tail, my friend advised me if possible try not to use angled connecters for the 1/2" fittings from the pump outlet to the ro, the less bends you have the better the flow from pump to ro. The hose i have used from the top of the t connector is 1/2 high pressure hose 15 bar rated, and it dose not go straight up to the ro it has a curve to help the flow, as you will see in the photos i will put up, i was strongly advised not to use 1/2 hose from the top of the pump outlet because i would of been reducing the size from a 1" outlet to a 1/2 " hose, so i did what i said above, it went from 1" outlet to 3/4" hose then reduced the hose size after the t connector.

I did try using a 3/4" x 1/2" reducer in the ro fitting and using 3/4 high pressure hose from the top of the pump outlet to the ro, but it kept on leaking, my friend said its because the inlet is only 1/2" and the water is being pumped through a 3/4" hose. so as i stated above, i used high pressure 1/2" hose.

Just a couple of quick tips and this is my experience not my opinion, try and use as many plastic/nylon fittings as possible, try not to cross match brass/zinc plated and plastic fittings together if possible, i only had to do this with the t connector because i could not find locally a female plastic/nylon fitting. and the second tip is use brand new fittings, the plastic/nylon fittings can loose there threads very easily and with that amount of pressure they WILL leak, well that was my experience. ha ha.

The best place i found to get nearly all the fittings was my local garden center, i was lucky, i have 2/3 places that do a lot of pond stuff, Jacuzzi and aquarium fittings, they will generally have everything you need.

I really hope this helps and saves someone some time.

Now for the performance test and results

my tap tds is 280

Normal tap pressure 40-45 psi after ro 15ppm, waste to pure production 3/1 1 litre of pure per minute

Booter pump 95-100psi after ro 8ppm, waste to pure production 1 1/2 /1 2 1/2 litres of pure per minute.

These are not exact figures but roughly what i am getting, i have tried to do this today, but stupid me, the misses is cleaning, and the kids are messing about playing in the garden with water, YES i have shouted twice at them already. And i am not to sure with it being Sunday and other people using taps baths washing machines etc etc whether that would make a difference, but its still over double production even on a Sunday. and i am quite sure it would be even better daytime in the week, when everyones at work. hear are some photos sorry about quality. one is the set up, and the other two are psi pressures without booster and with booster pump

View attachment 8246

View attachment 8247

View attachment 8248

 

[AGlassAct]

Great informative post Jason. A nice follow up to your original post and will answer quite a few questions for other members to consider. How do you get on with the built in flow control/cut off switch? I am going to fit the exact same one to my set up but was worried it will play up due to to constant high operating pressure. Does it cut power to the pump OK with no over-run or do you get a spike in pressure. I need to get rid of a few seeps in my system before I consider making it fully automated and your use of high pressure hose is certainly food for thought.

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[jason1965]

Great informative post Jason. A nice follow up to your original post and will answer quite a few questions for other members to consider. How do you get on with the built in flow control/cut off switch? I am going to fit the exact same one to my set up but was worried it will play up due to to constant high operating pressure. Does it cut power to the pump OK with no over-run or do you get a spike in pressure. I need to get rid of a few seeps in my system before I consider making it fully automated and your use of high pressure hose is certainly food for thought.

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Thanks for the comment, to be honest it seems to be okay with the flow/control cut off, my outside tap is about 25 meters from were my van is sat with the pump in it, when i turn the tap off, and walk to the van, the pump is still going, but i think that just because there is still water flowing through the hose into the van, then the pump will shut off, or i just unplug the pump and it stops. I think these pump are also designed to constantly connect to the water supply and left on, and i think you can even wire this up to the direct to a electric surrply without a plug and they will shut off when the water pressure stops, i believe there is a minimum amount of pressure required for the pump to work i think its something like 1.5 bar which is roughly 25 psi, so taken this into account it must be that when i turn off the water from my tap the pump will still pump water until the pressure entering the pump inlet drops below 1.5 bar. And because i have quiet a distance from my outside tap to the van there still must be enough pressure in the hose for the pump to keep going, if it is still going when i walk back because i have fitted a pressure gauge between the outlet on the pump and the ro you can see the pressure dropping on the gauge and the pump stopping. I think the regulator what you are talking about is really ment to protect the pump from running dry, i bought the pump with a filter and regulator but you can buy the same pump just on its own, but because i live in a flat, i didnt want to take the chance, that for any reason the water stopped flowing into the van it would burn the pump out.

Hope this helps Glass

 

[Dean Rogers]

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[mark 1964]

hi Jason, new to the site trying to install clarkes booster pump  like the one have   installed above, followed  instructions but can not seem to get it running. i have 2 pre filters 20" carbon and sediment and a di vessel  from the pump i have put the inlet to carbon filter  and from the top of the pump to 40/40 membrane  the membrane when uncoupled pours water out so should it be going into the top of the pump  confused  as theirs no water circulating 

 

[Iron Giant]

hi Jason, new to the site trying to install clarkes booster pump  like the one have   installed above, followed  instructions but can not seem to get it running. i have 2 pre filters 20" carbon and sediment and a di vessel  from the pump i have put the inlet to carbon filter  and from the top of the pump to 40/40 membrane  the membrane when uncoupled pours water out so should it be going into the top of the pump  confused  as theirs no water circulating 

@spruce maybe able to advise or another member 

 

[spruce]

hi Jason, new to the site trying to install clarkes booster pump  like the one have   installed above, followed  instructions but can not seem to get it running. i have 2 pre filters 20" carbon and sediment and a di vessel  from the pump i have put the inlet to carbon filter  and from the top of the pump to 40/40 membrane  the membrane when uncoupled pours water out so should it be going into the top of the pump  confused  as theirs no water circulating 

https://dccf75d8gej24.cloudfront.net/documents/051020800_28_08_14.pdf

I'm a bit confused when you said that there is no water circulating.

The electronic controller on the outlet of the pump activates the pump when it senses a flow of water. When that flow stops the controller will switch off the pump.

If this isn't happening then you need to investigate why.

Lets forget the 4040 for a moment.

If you have the tap coupled to the pump you should have water flowing through the pump and out of the hose that feeds the r/o. If you have then the only place the problem can be is the electrical side or the pump itself.

According to the manual there are lights on the side of the controller to inform you of a problem. Do any of them light up? If they do then the instruction manual will help you identify what to look for. Have you pressed the reset button?

If they don't you need to then look for a power supply issue. Is there power at the socket? Is there a good 13amp fuse in the 3 pin plug? Etc.

If all of these are in order then I would refer the matter back to my supplier if I were you.

 

[mark 1964]

hi spruce, thank you for your reply, think i have sorted it out it was me i had the system all set up wrong still learning the ropes thanks again probably have a few more enquiry's along the way .. 

 

[Mattymarske]

CBP900 = £227 cheaper and similar specs.

I know this is a resurrection of an old thread but booster pumps come up quite frequently.

I've used a CBM240E since January 2020 and it has been faultless in performance until a grinding noise last month and black swarf blocking my Solenoid valve on RO. On further inspection stripping it down I found a broken impeller 1 of the 4 it contains.

Rang Clarke for a spare one £28 delivered, and fitted it myself. Thought all was well but must've tightened shaft too much and now motor doesn't work- plug superheated and melted. Taken it to MachineMart for £24 assessment after putting new plug and loosened shaft nut but still humming noise and not working.

Long story short I needed pure water production quickly as tap pressure was 60psi but filling my tank in 14hrs....

Did some research and found the CBP900 with same auto control electric shut off in a smaller package. 16m smaller head and flow rate but minimal difference in performance of my RO.

Very similar specs and nearly £230 cheaper. Bought one and fitted it to RO 4040 system and now up and back to producing 3lpm pure. Very impressive. If it last 2-3 years it's served me well as couldn't stomach £396 again for a CNM240E.

Stats as below.

CBM240E
Flow rate up to 101 litres/min
Maximum head 48m
Electronic control unit provides auto start/stop and protects against dry running
Corrosion and rust proof construction
Longlife double insulated impeller
1000 watt, 230v motor


CBP900
Max Output: 97L/min
Maximum Head: 32m
Motor: 900W / 230V
Max Operating Pressure: 3.2bar
Auto-start when pressure falls below 1.5 bar
Dry running protection to maintain the pump's lift
Low noise - quiet operation

 

[Mattymarske]

CBP900 = £227 cheaper and similar specs.

I know this is a resurrection of an old thread but booster pumps come up quite frequently.

I've used a CBM240E since January 2020 and it has been faultless in performance until a grinding noise last month and black swarf blocking my Solenoid valve on RO. On further inspection stripping it down I found a broken impeller 1 of the 4 it contains.

Rang Clarke for a spare one £28 delivered, and fitted it myself. Thought all was well but must've tightened shaft too much and now motor doesn't work- plug superheated and melted. Taken it to MachineMart for £24 assessment after putting new plug and loosened shaft nut but still humming noise and not working.

Long story short I needed pure water production quickly as tap pressure was 60psi but filling my tank in 14hrs....

Did some research and found the CBP900 with same auto control electric shut off in a smaller package. 16m smaller head and flow rate but minimal difference in performance of my RO.

Very similar specs and nearly £230 cheaper. Bought one and fitted it to RO 4040 system and now up and back to producing 3lpm pure. Very impressive. If it last 2-3 years it's served me well as couldn't stomach £396 again for a CNM240E.

Stats as below.

CBM240E
Flow rate up to 101 litres/min
Maximum head 48m
Electronic control unit provides auto start/stop and protects against dry running
Corrosion and rust proof construction
Longlife double insulated impeller
1000 watt, 230v motor


CBP900
Max Output: 97L/min
Maximum Head: 32m
Motor: 900W / 230V
Max Operating Pressure: 3.2bar
Auto-start when pressure falls below 1.5 bar
Dry running protection to maintain the pump's lift
Low noise - quiet operation

Prices on Anglian Pumps Website (where I bought CBM240E from) but MachineMart (where I bought CBP900 from) has better aftercare IMHO.

Anglian Pumps told me it wasn't expensive enough to offer service on it.... luckily MachineMart took it in.

 

[ched999uk]

Looking at the spec you posted the old pump had a max head of 48m = 68psi the new one only 32m = 45psi and a max operating pressure of 3.2bar = 44.8psi. This seems a bit low.
You say your tap pressure is 60psi, which is decent. I wonder if your actual problem is flow not pressure? How is the hose you have going to your pre filters connected to your mains water? If it's one of those 'self cutting washing machine valves' then that might be causing you a big restriction.
It does depend on your membrane as there are some that will run at 60psi.

Do you know what your ro pressure is with the new pump?

 

[Mattymarske]

Looking at the spec you posted the old pump had a max head of 48m = 68psi the new one only 32m = 45psi and a max operating pressure of 3.2bar = 44.8psi. This seems a bit low.
You say your tap pressure is 60psi, which is decent. I wonder if your actual problem is flow not pressure? How is the hose you have going to your pre filters connected to your mains water? If it's one of those 'self cutting washing machine valves' then that might be causing you a big restriction.
It does depend on your membrane as there are some that will run at 60psi.

Do you know what your ro pressure is with the new pump?

I'll double check when I'm home. When the membrane is flushing it's 12lpm which is the whole of the mains supply for house. ? Never happened with the 240e as always managwd yo have reduced flow at taps as was. More like 10.9-11.2lpm but now 5 mins every hour the cold supply is diverted to membrane....kids not happy when brushing their teeth lol.

When membrane is producing it's around 8lpm flow (previously it was 6.7lpm whilst producing so happy with flow from new pump) so about 60/40 waste to pure but I've played about with the gate valve since moving system out of van and wall mounting in garage. Once I've fitted the inflow pressure gauge I'll play about with it further to see if can get 50/50.