RO TDS Temporarily High When Float Valve Releases

[Nudel]

I'm using a 12v timer for my tank filling setup. Works perfectly fine.

Also use 12v solenoids for shutting off my RO, but that's only on tap pressure.

For a timer, something like this should work. https://m.ebay.com/itm/12V-Timing-Delay-Relay-Module-Cycle-Timer-LED-Digital-Dual-Display-0-999-Minutes/142790749615?epid=525527230&hash=item213efdedaf%3Ag%3Av6MAAOSwgJla9Wmc&_nkw=Timer+12v&_from=R40&rt=nc

Unfortunately it doesn't have NC contacts, so either you use one NO and one NC valve, or add a daughter relay board. Most other 12v timers off ebay needs a trigger signal to activate, which you can do by rotating your storage float valve 180 degrees, but is kind of a hassle as you then can't use the float valve to also start the booster pump (and you loose a failsafe). But the one I linked should just activate the timer on power on.

And Arduino with a relay module is another good option.

 

[Brandon]

I'm using a 12v timer for my tank filling setup. Works perfectly fine.

Also use 12v solenoids for shutting off my RO, but that's only on tap pressure.

For a timer, something like this should work. https://m.ebay.com/itm/12V-Timing-Delay-Relay-Module-Cycle-Timer-LED-Digital-Dual-Display-0-999-Minutes/142790749615?epid=525527230&hash=item213efdedaf%3Ag%3Av6MAAOSwgJla9Wmc&_nkw=Timer+12v&_from=R40&rt=nc

Unfortunately it doesn't have NC contacts, so either you use one NO and one NC valve, or add a daughter relay board. Most other 12v timers off ebay needs a trigger signal to activate, which you can do by rotating your storage float valve 180 degrees, but is kind of a hassle as you then can't use the float valve to also start the booster pump (and you loose a failsafe). But the one I linked should just activate the timer on power on.

And Arduino with a relay module is another good option.

That sounds a bit beyond me if I'm honest, will probably just make do with a Y hose splitter for now. Will look into automating it in the future.

Props to you for understanding this stuff though ? 

 

[Brandon]

Am I being crazy here or is this a reasonable idea....

The DI vessel I use is a 25 litre one which means it takes nearly a full bag of resin every change. Since it's now crept up to around 2 TDS, surely it would be a massive waste to throw that away?

I'm thinking why not buy another vessel (maybe half the size) and run a double DI setup so the RO water (10 TDS) goes through the first vessel and comes out at 2 TDS and then is polished off again through the new vessel therefore prolonging the life of the new resin massively?

Would that make any worthwhile savings compared to using the one vessel and changing every time it hit 1 tds?

 

[Nudel]

That is a good idea @Brandon. People have been doing that for years. Saves up to 25% on resin cost if I remember correctly

 

[spruce]

I changed my output to John Guest fittings a few months back. Installed a splitter and put a shut off tap on either end. When the RO first starts up I close the valve to stop water going into the DI vessel and open the other one which goes out of the garage and dumps the water on the lawn. Once the TDS comes down enough I close open the valve leading to the DI vessel and close the other one. Not quite automated but easy enough to do.

View attachment 14506

While we're on the subject of RO and I know our resident expert @spruce will read this... A few days ago i moved my tank, I have put fed the output pipe from the DI across the ceiling and it drops down into the tank. It doesn't seem to have caused any production issues but is there anything you can think of that may go wrong with that set up? I was concerned that perhaps the back pressure created from having to pump the water to ceiling height may send some back into the membrane and cause damage? Or am I just over thinking it?

I have my r/o on one wall of my garage and the IBC tank on the other side. The pure goes through a hose which is attached to the rafters.

I've had no issue. My garage is a flat roof with a slight slope. The water drains out of the pipe naturally as the flow of water is with the slope of the roof.

 

[Brandon]

That is a good idea [mention=3047]Brandon[/mention]. People have been doing that for years. Saves up to 25% on resin cost if I remember correctly

That’s what I’ll do then!
Would you recommend another 25 litre vessel or does it not really matter?


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[Nudel]

That’s what I’ll do then!
Would you recommend another 25 litre vessel or does it not really matter?


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Most people seem to use two 11 litres. Can't see why it would make any difference having different sizes. After all when the first one is spent, you refill it with resin and switch the vessels, thus alternating them constantly.

 

[P4dstar]

Most people seem to use two 11 litres. Can't see why it would make any difference having different sizes. After all when the first one is spent, you refill it with resin and switch the vessels, thus alternating them constantly.

Well apparently the larger the canister the more you get.... I don't just mean the obvious bigger canister has more resin so purifies more water I mean if a 1 litre canister was spent after 1000 litres then a 10 litre canister would do more than 10k litres. I have read a lot that this is the case.... No one seems to be able to give figures on the difference but people seem confident this is how it works.

 

[Brandon]

@p4dstar

It’s strange how it works isn’t it?

I remember a while back a guy on here was asking for help because the resin in his 10” vessel on his RO was being used really quickly after only a few hundred litres.

It seems the smaller vessel you have the less pure you get from it gram for gram if that makes sense.

Has anyone used those long life DI vessels, and if so are they worth the extra dosh?


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