450gpd vs 900gpd

[Henry Walters]

My tap pressure is 70psi and i have 200-260tds. So probably wont need a booster pump

Looking at pure freedom 450gpd and 900gpd HF5 but not sure which will best suit me. I am going to have a trolley setup with 6-8 25 litre containers to start with. Hope to expand quickly maybe to a 300 litre system and want to fill up in a reasonably fast time so will buying the 900gpd be a better investment.

Anyone have the 450 and can tell me how fast it produces and fills up your tanks.

Suggestions appreciated.

 

[spruce]

My tap pressure is 70psi and i have 200-260tds. So probably wont need a booster pump
Looking at pure freedom 450gpd and 900gpd HF5 but not sure which will best suit me. I am going to have a trolley setup with 6-8 25 litre containers to start with. Hope to expand quickly maybe to a 300 litre system and want to fill up in a reasonably fast time so will buying the 900gpd be a better investment.

Anyone have the 450 and can tell me how fast it produces and fills up your tanks.

Suggestions appreciated.

A 450 GPD will fill your 300 liter tank very slowly. The slower r/o's are fine, but you just need to process water into a holding tank like an IBC 1000 liter tank and pump it into your van as required.

Our water pressure was 40 psi and the 450GPD took 28 hours to fill our IBC tank in summer and about 34 hours in winter. 70psi will be a little quicker but not by a large margin. We had our 450gpd on a float switch and solenoid valve so the water to the r/o switched off when the tank was full.

Remember the GPD is 24 hours not 12 hours. The 150GPD membrane specs will be at optimum pressure and water temperature.

.

 

[Henry Walters]

I was pulling towards the 900gpd just so it saves me from upgrading for a while, at 70psi a HF5 membrane should be the one i should get am i right?

Is this likely to fill 300 liters reasonable quickly? and do i just need a ball stop valve (which ill connect to a water butt) to stop the ro unit once done.

 

[spruce]

I was pulling towards the 900gpd just so it saves me from upgrading for a while, at 70psi a HF5 membrane should be the one i should get am i right?
Is this likely to fill 300 liters reasonable quickly? and do i just need a ball stop valve (which ill connect to a water butt) to stop the ro unit once done.

Nobody is going to be able to give you an exact figure of how long it will take. You have good water pressure so I would guess that the 4021 will give you pretty much 1 liter of pure per minute. (My 4040 gives me 2lpm with 50psi water pressure with an HF5 membrane. The 4040 is twice the size of the 4021.)

I'm into the HF5 membrane and 70psi is within its spec. PureFreedom will tell you that at 70psi there probably won't be much difference between the HF4 and HF5. I can't answer that from experience. An HF5 membrane is more expensive than an HF4.

A standard ball valve isn't a suitable way of switching the r/o off when the butt is full. We use a float switch and a solenoid valve on the water inlet to the r/o system. With a normally off solenoid valve the power is cut when the butt is full stopping the flow of water from the house supply. A ball valve will stop the pure flowing into the butt, but will not stop water flowing through the r/o membrane.

Purefreedom and Gardiners sell these stop valve systems.

Here is an example

Liquid Logic™ System Autofill - System Controllers - Pump & System Controllers - Pump & Hose - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

 

[Den]

Spruce I have something like this on my 450gpd

Auto Shut Off Kit for Aquarium, RO Water Filter and , Window Cleaning | eBay

When it shuts down I get a slight leak from my Di vessel the bit that screws into the thread at the top I have put a tonne of ptfe tap around the thread but still leaks would be safe to maybe mastic the thread instead of the ptfe tap?

 

[spruce]

Spruce I have something like this on my 450gpd
Auto Shut Off Kit for Aquarium, RO Water Filter and , Window Cleaning | eBay

When it shuts down I get a slight leak from my Di vessel the bit that screws into the thread at the top I have put a tonne of ptfe tap around the thread but still leaks would be safe to maybe mastic the thread instead of the ptfe tap?

There should be a gasket to seal the head and the vessel. It could be in the form of an large 'rubber' o ring. Putting ptfe tape or any other sealer around the threads isn't the answer.

If the leak is on the ports then you might be better sealing them with a thread sealer. Sometimes those 'plastic' hozlock male threads aren't as good as the brass ones. Maybe try brass first and then seal with a thread sealer. I had a leak on one of the fittings on my prefilters. As it didn't need to be removed again, I mixed up some Araldite, dried the threads and then put the mixed (its a 2 part system) onto the threads. It hasn't leaked since.

 

[Den]

Maybe the gasket is damaged, will check again tomorrow and see if I can get something similar from wickes or b&q .

 

[Den]

It's the hose connectors thread inlet to the top section I mean.

 

[spruce]

If they are 3/4" like these then I would Araldite them in as you won't need to remove them

2pcs Water Hose Pipe Tube Fitting Brass Tap Connector Adapter 3/4" Male HS533

or

Hozelock Compatible 3/4" Accessory Tap Connector Male Thread Pipe Hose Joiner WL | eBay

 

[Den]

Yes they are like the bottom link made of plastic thanks Spruce.

 

[Den]

Spruce arldited now perfect thanks again.

 

[spruce]

Spruce arldited now perfect thanks again.

That stuff works pretty well tbh. Its also good to use to replace any pole clamps that have come loose. We don't seem to have that issue as much now as we used to.

I've also used it to stick any lead back onto the glass that we have accidentally lifted off with our brush head.

.