Double Di issues

[1-wfp.co.uk]

The controller you linked to I think is similar to what you are currently using as in it relies on the pumps built in pressure switch to stop the pump. What this means is that the pressure in your DI and hoses will be up around 100psi when you shutoff your flow to your brush. A Spring controller (most window cleaning suppliers have their own branded versions - look for V16) can be calibrated to detect when you close off the flow to the brush and not over pressurise the system. So when you open the flow you won't get a big burst of flow. The V16 type controllers are kinder to your pump and will use less battery power.

I'm not predicting that a V16 controller will solve your problem.
I assume after you bought the new heads and tubes you flushed out your hose as it might still have resin beads in? Do you still get the same issue if you just use a single DI? Swap both to check.

Thanks, I've just checked that and understand it's limitations, I've spent days just doing the same window on my house and have tried everything but if I connect to a tap and run it at the speed I want on my brush it works as expected but if stop the flow the tap is still on and even that low pressure will blast some resin out when I pull on my uni valve to restart.
I've checked out the V16 and I was looking at it's dead end detection, just not sure if I can program it on this one.
Thanks for the reply.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

The controller you linked to I think is similar to what you are currently using as in it relies on the pumps built in pressure switch to stop the pump. What this means is that the pressure in your DI and hoses will be up around 100psi when you shutoff your flow to your brush. A Spring controller (most window cleaning suppliers have their own branded versions - look for V16) can be calibrated to detect when you close off the flow to the brush and not over pressurise the system. So when you open the flow you won't get a big burst of flow. The V16 type controllers are kinder to your pump and will use less battery power.

I'm not predicting that a V16 controller will solve your problem.
I assume after you bought the new heads and tubes you flushed out your hose as it might still have resin beads in? Do you still get the same issue if you just use a single DI? Swap both to check.

Thanks for that, I checked out the one I linked and my own is set up like that. I got it a good looking box and a digital display for flow and battery life but can not calibrate it. If I connect it to a tap (with univalve open) at a rate where it gives me my brush flow speed I want it works as it should but when I close the univalve the Di's or single Di pressure up that when I start up pump or tap, it blasts out and then resin starts but will stop about 10 15 minutes open univalve completely.

I checked out Wintecs and they have a V16 but just trying to find if I can calibrate my dead end on it, it has dead end detection.
filling my van on a open water flow is my only way at the moment but I so want the freedom of DD in the van.

 

[ched999uk]

I checked out Wintecs and they have a V16 but just trying to find if I can calibrate my dead end on it, it has dead end detection.

The calibration is fairly easy, here is Springs video on how to do it on a V16:



Still find it weird the bead issue you have. You have the connections right and have changed resin, riser tube and head the only thing left is the vessel it's self but I can't see how that could allow resin past the mesh, maybe as a last resort you could add some extra very fine mesh at the bottom of the riser tube but it would have to be sealed quite well round the bottom of the riser.

 

[Iron Giant]

Thanks, I've just checked that and understand it's limitations, I've spent days just doing the same window on my house and have tried everything but if I connect to a tap and run it at the speed I want on my brush it works as expected but if stop the flow the tap is still on and even that low pressure will blast some resin out when I pull on my uni valve to restart.
I've checked out the V16 and I was looking at it's dead end detection, just not sure if I can program it on this one.
Thanks for the reply.

Pardon our interruption...

If you are considering a new controller I'd buy from Pentair Shurflo Pump and Digital Pump Controllers he even has the older Vll at a cheaper price and an analogue controller as under £100 just scroll down the page also @doug atkinson sends orders out next day delivery so you'd have it on Tuesday

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

The calibration is fairly easy, here is Springs video on how to do it on a V16:



Still find it weird the bead issue you have. You have the connections right and have changed resin, riser tube and head the only thing left is the vessel it's self but I can't see how that could allow resin past the mesh, maybe as a last resort you could add some extra very fine mesh at the bottom of the riser tube but it would have to be sealed quite well round the bottom of the riser.

Great vid thanks, I'm going for this controller before I give up, I understand and have felt the bead size, theses coming through are tottally smashed to pieces where a 1 micron filter will not stop them.

If you are considering a new controller I'd buy from Pentair Shurflo Pump and Digital Pump Controllers he even has the older Vll at a cheaper price and an analogue controller as under £100 just scroll down the page also @doug atkinson sends orders out next day delivery so you'd have it on Tuesday

I checked out the site and yes good equipment and prices. After a lot of looking into the v16 I bought one this morning and after watching some videos about pressure, hose sizes and calibration I'm hoping I can post resolved.

 

[THL4KEL]

Maybe you should buy an RO and just use that. You wont need to use resin with your tap TDS.

 

[Iron Giant]

Great vid thanks, I'm going for this controller before I give up, I understand and have felt the bead size, theses coming through are tottally smashed to pieces where a 1 micron filter will not stop them.

I checked out the site and yes good equipment and prices. After a lot of looking into the v16 I bought one this morning and after watching some videos about pressure, hose sizes and calibration I'm hoping I can post resolved.

I think @ched999uk hit the nail on the head with the high-pressure build-up.


Hopefully, you bought from Daqua as Doug always ensures proper next-day delivery unlike some others who dispatch when they get around to it 2-3 days later I have even phoned him up before 3pm in the afternoon and if the DPD guy hasn't been he'll quickly package up a small order and have sorted asap, it's his customer service that will win my business every time

 

[doug atkinson]

Don’t know if it would work but try putting some of your misses tights over the bottoms screen. It would stop the finer beads getting through but may restrict your flow.

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Are you using a flow controller or just relying on the pumps pressure cut off? If you are using a flow controller then you might need to calibrate the dead end detection as it sounds like it's set way too high if you are getting an initial blast when restarting the flow. Not that high pressure should cause resin beads to escape the vessel and get on the glass but it might not be helping.

Top man Ched, you and Iron Man got it at the same time. My flow controller had no calibration as I have a self build van system I just thought £10 for a ebay basic flow control was ok and used it for nearly 4 years. On a delivery system only though.
I took Iron Mans recommendation for aV16 and it's now calibrated and issue sorted. Thanks.

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

I think @ched999uk hit the nail on the head with the high-pressure build-up.


Hopefully, you bought from Daqua as Doug always ensures proper next-day delivery unlike some others who dispatch when they get around to it 2-3 days later I have even phoned him up before 3pm in the afternoon and if the DPD guy hasn't been he'll quickly package up a small order and have sorted asap, it's his customer service that will win my business every time

Top man Iron Giant, thanks for a good diagnosis and resolve, fitted it this morning and it's working a treat and what a difference to my pump and water usage. I joined this forum to help with my issue and it has certainly done that.

 

[Iron Giant]

Top man Iron Giant, thanks for a good diagnosis and resolve, fitted it this morning and it's working a treat and what a difference to my pump and water usage. I joined this forum to help with my issue and it has certainly done that.

No worries at all that's why we are all here to help each other.

another top tip is to change your username as anyone searching for your website will find this and future posts on a Google search you don't really want your customers to see anything that you may at some point discuss on here which is why we all have usernames that don't reveal our identities

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Maybe you should buy an RO and just use that. You wont need to use resin with your tap TDS.

If only I had the room, had a 150 GPD but still not enough room.

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

No worries at all that's why we are all here to help each other.

another top tip is to change your username as anyone searching for your website will find this and future posts on a Google search you don't really want your customers to see anything that you may at some point discuss on here which is why we all have usernames that don't reveal our identities

Struggled to change my name, just doesn't appear as an option. Had a great day at work today though. Right till dusk! Hope you're day was good,

 

[Iron Giant]

Struggled to change my name, just doesn't appear as an option. Had a great day at work today though. Right till dusk! Hope you're day was good,

It should be straightforward click on your username in the top right hand corner then the account details tab and the option should be right next to your current username.


Good to hear your work day has been good with the issue resolved

 

[ched999uk]

It should be straightforward click on your username in the top right hand corner then the account details tab and the option should be right next to your current username.


Good to hear your work day has been good with the issue resolved

I think only Premium members can change their usernames.

 

[Iron Giant]

I think only Premium members can change their usernames.

Thanks for this, I am not entirely sure as @Gavin hasn't uploaded the rules since the site update but I think creating backlinks to one's own website isn't allowed under the rules which is what the author of this post has essentially done although I'm sure it was an innocent thing

 

[ched999uk]

Thanks for this, I am not entirely sure as @Gavin hasn't uploaded the rules since the site update but I think creating backlinks to one's own website isn't allowed under the rules which is what the author of this post has essentially done although I'm sure it was an innocent thing

The user name isn't a backlink in seo (search engine optimisation) terms, so he's not gaining anything really - other than if anyone searched for his website url this site might come up. That might not be great depending on what he posts!

 

[Iron Giant]

The user name isn't a backlink in seo (search engine optimisation) terms, so he's not gaining anything really - other than if anyone searched for his website url this site might come up. That might not be great depending on what he posts!

Exactly the point I was making earlier, people assume that only window cleaners are likely to view a wc forum but it's a public forum that people can view and read if they want, I am not signed in on here on my phone so I can read threads without being signed albeit limited access

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

Hit the issue again today but have now learned why (I believe) 4 years ago when deciding how to get pure water I looked at all angles did my research and decided to use spotless water being close by. When I researched Double Di at that time I NOW remember reading not to let your water get too low as going up a hill would take water away from the tank port and cause a back flush and then when when running the pump at the next job resin would be like going through a mincer.
I am now looking at non return valves to put between the pump and Di 1, choice is a double check valve (Brass) a swing check valve or a One Way Non-return Valve.
Anyone had this experience before?

 

[Iron Giant]

Hit the issue again today but have now learned why (I believe) 4 years ago when deciding how to get pure water I looked at all angles did my research and decided to use spotless water being close by. When I researched Double Di at that time I NOW remember reading not to let your water get too low as going up a hill would take water away from the tank port and cause a back flush and then when when running the pump at the next job resin would be like going through a mincer.
I am now looking at non return valves to put between the pump and Di 1, choice is a double check valve (Brass) a swing check valve or a One Way Non-return Valve.
Anyone had this experience before?

One of these if you have a wyedale tank should be fitted at your tank outlet Large Tank Outlet Fittings Kit - Pure Freedom

 

[1-wfp.co.uk]

One of these if you have a wyedale tank should be fitted at your tank outlet Large Tank Outlet Fittings Kit - Pure Freedom

Yes I have the tap fitted which requires a manual shut off using the tap, however I am fitting a push fit double check valve between the pump outlet and Di 1. The one I am fitting is suitable for the pressures and application, after I have yet again washed out my tank and lines.
When it happened yesterday my flow of water on the glass left it covered in a large amount of sand like substance which I can only imagine was the returning back flow coming through the pump and being minced resin. I was in a plumbers the other week and asked if there was such a valve to do this job but he directed me to a hozelock fitting which was just a normal fitting!!! I've done my research on these valves now and I believe this is what my system needs. Fingers crossed.