Fitting submersible pump and hose

[spruce]

The footvalve is a great idea.

Like the idea of it being in a cubbard to protect the pump but just want to get it working first.

Do you have a shut off valve on the end of the pipe you fill your van  with?

No. The hose from the pump runs to the garage door where it ends with a female connector. It gets hooked up above the height of the ibc tank when not in use.

I then run a length of transfer pipe to the van to fill the tank. I can see when the van tank is getting full so switch the pump off. (I stand at the van watching it fill. If I don't and quickly do something else I will end up forgetting it and flooding my van out. Its happened more times than I can remember.?)

I unscrew the pipe at the door, hook the pipe up and walk back to the van raising the length of pipe to the van above my head to empty that water into the van's tank. (That pipe holds about 12 liters of water so I don't want to waste that every time I fill up.)

On my old van I could wedge the filler pipe to stop it coming out of the tank when filling. The orientation of my tank is different on this van so I welded a bracket to the frame with an upside down exhaust clamp. This holds the filler pipe inside my tank whilst I'm waiting for the tank to fill.

I also have s second length I can add to the first length. The gas board dug the road up to redo the gas pipes a few years ago. This extra length means I can fill my van up with water when it's parked in the street. 

It works fine. The only problem is coiling that length of hose back up.

The hose at the garage door terminates with a female screw connector. The hose that screws into that is male and has a female on the other end at the tank side. The second length has the same male connector at one end and female at the other end.

You need a footvalve. It was mentioned in the instructions so I had to order one separately. The pump I bought over 12 years ago was the SPE800 from Machine Mart. It has a plastic housing and non rust forming impeller. It says its self priming but it isn't. The body of the pump has to be filled with water to prime it to begin with. This is why they recommend a footvalve. Once its primed and running the footvalve guarantees you don't have to prime it again. The reason why I suggest brass it that its heavy and holds the transfer hose at the bottom of the IBC tank. (Another windie also uses a transfer pump but the pump body is cast iron. He has to flush the pump before filling to remove the rusty water.)

 

[Algie]

No. The hose from the pump runs to the garage door where it ends with a female connector. It gets hooked up above the height of the ibc tank when not in use.

I then run a length of transfer pipe to the van to fill the tank. I can see when the van tank is getting full so switch the pump off. (I stand at the van watching it fill. If I don't and quickly do something else I will end up forgetting it and flooding my van out. Its happened more times than I can remember.?)

I unscrew the pipe at the door, hook the pipe up and walk back to the van raising the length of pipe to the van above my head to empty that water into the van's tank. (That pipe holds about 12 liters of water so I don't want to waste that every time I fill up.)

On my old van I could wedge the filler pipe to stop it coming out of the tank when filling. The orientation of my tank is different on this van so I welded a bracket to the frame with an upside down exhaust clamp. This holds the filler pipe inside my tank whilst I'm waiting for the tank to fill.

I also have s second length I can add to the first length. The gas board dug the road up to redo the gas pipes a few years ago. This extra length means I can fill my van up with water when it's parked in the street. 

It works fine. The only problem is coiling that length of hose back up.

The hose at the garage door terminates with a female screw connector. The hose that screws into that is male and has a female on the other end at the tank side. The second length has the same male connector at one end and female at the other end.

You need a footvalve. It was mentioned in the instructions so I had to order one separately. The pump I bought over 12 years ago was the SPE800 from Machine Mart. It has a plastic housing and non rust forming impeller. It says its self priming but it isn't. The body of the pump has to be filled with water to prime it to begin with. This is why they recommend a footvalve. Once its primed and running the footvalve guarantees you don't have to prime it again. The reason why I suggest brass it that its heavy and holds the transfer hose at the bottom of the IBC tank. (Another windie also uses a transfer pump but the pump body is cast iron. He has to flush the pump before filling to remove the rusty water.)

Mine is also cast iron and is all rusty after just one day.

Dont think this system is for me.

Bit gutted as ive just spent £200 on a pump and hose when i had a submersible pump alreay in my garage.

 

[Davy G]

Mine is also cast iron and is all rusty after just one day.

Dont think this system is for me.

Bit gutted as ive just spent £200 on a pump and hose when i had a submersible pump alreay in my garage.

We sometimes get a TINY bit of rust in the water when we start the pump. Never caused us the slightest problem. I suggest that you fill the van tank and check the tds. Our tds is usually somewhere between 001 and 005.

We've been using our pump for 6 years. Neither my son nor myself can remember the last time we had a complaint.

I would not give advice on something I hadn't first proved to be successful for me. ?

 

[Algie]

We sometimes get a TINY bit of rust in the water when we start the pump. Never caused us the slightest problem. I suggest that you fill the van tank and check the tds. Our tds is usually somewhere between 001 and 005.

We've been using our pump for 6 years. Neither my son nor myself can remember the last time we had a complaint.

I would not give advice on something I hadn't first proved to be successful for me. ?

 

[Algie]

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Sorry sent pic's but lost what i have written.

Went for the submersible pump in the end after getting advice from Lee Martin from blade Right.

Cutting a hole in my tank was dead easy.

Cut a square hole away from the lid took my time and had no problems. 

Appreciate all the advice Davy G but i suppose its down to preference.

Perhaps i bought the wrong pump but it was full of rusty water after just one day.

All i will say to anyone who is worried about cutting their tank is just do it.

I found it really easy to do and im not one bit worried,  will just tape it up .

 

[Davy G]

Sorry sent pic's but lost what i have written.

Went for the submersible pump in the end after getting advice from Lee Martin from blade Right.

Cutting a hole in my tank was dead easy.

Cut a square hole away from the lid took my time and had no problems. 

Appreciate all the advice Davy G but i suppose its down to preference.

Perhaps i bought the wrong pump but it was full of rusty water after just one day.

All i will say to anyone who is worried about cutting their tank is just do it.

I found it really easy to do and im not one bit worried,  will just tape it up .

Glad you got it sorted Algie. Sorry my advice didn't seem to work out for you. We filled up our 650 tank about a half hour ago, from almost empty. We checked the water coming from the delivery hose. Absolutely no visible rust. We checked the tds coming out of the delivery hose, it was 000. We also tested the water in the van tank as it was almost full, again 000. The last time I noticed any rust in the water was after moving all our processing equipment to my garage in March. It was a very tiny amount.

We do about a hundred houses a week, around six hundred houses in our round. Extremely rare to get a complaint, and we regularly test our tds. You should be able to offset the cost of your rejected pump on your tax bill. Cold comfort I know when there are other things the money could have been used for.

Sorry again my advice didn't work out for you. But glad you got it sorted.

 

[Pjj]

We sometimes get a TINY bit of rust in the water when we start the pump. Never caused us the slightest problem. I suggest that you fill the van tank and check the tds. Our tds is usually somewhere between 001 and 005.

We've been using our pump for 6 years. Neither my son nor myself can remember the last time we had a complaint.

I would not give advice on something I hadn't first proved to be successful for me. ?

You could always strain the water with a pair of old tights before the water goes into your tank this would catch any bits of rust and is very cheap way to strain the water 

 

[Davy G]

You could always strain the water with a pair of old tights before the water goes into your tank this would catch any bits of rust and is very cheap way to strain the water 

Thanks Paul, we've never had any actual rust come through. Only the tiniest bit, maybe half a cupful of discoloured water. And only really when we've disturbed the tank.

Thanks again for the advice. ?

 

[Algie]

Glad you got it sorted Algie. Sorry my advice didn't seem to work out for you. We filled up our 650 tank about a half hour ago, from almost empty. We checked the water coming from the delivery hose. Absolutely no visible rust. We checked the tds coming out of the delivery hose, it was 000. We also tested the water in the van tank as it was almost full, again 000. The last time I noticed any rust in the water was after moving all our processing equipment to my garage in March. It was a very tiny amount.

We do about a hundred houses a week, around six hundred houses in our round. Extremely rare to get a complaint, and we regularly test our tds. You should be able to offset the cost of your rejected pump on your tax bill. Cold comfort I know when there are other things the money could have been used for.

Sorry again my advice didn't work out for you. But glad you got it sorted.

No problem Davy G.

I was trying to be cleaver and bought the more powerful pump 240 liters per min, im sure you said yours was about 60 per min.

I was like a firemans hose lol, quite powerful.

I was a bit ****** off with it but ive washed my hands of it now.

Main thing is im up and running now so just put it down to experience. 

I do appreciate you answering my questions and taking the time to help, 

I have no dout you only wanted to help me out ?

 

[Davy G]

No problem Davy G.

I was trying to be cleaver and bought the more powerful pump 240 liters per min, im sure you said yours was about 60 per min.

I was like a firemans hose lol, quite powerful.

I was a bit ****** off with it but ive washed my hands of it now.

Main thing is im up and running now so just put it down to experience. 

I do appreciate you answering my questions and taking the time to help, 

I have no dout you only wanted to help me out ?

Absolutely mate. 240 litres per minute! ?Jeez mate! Yeah you're right. I think mine's rated about 40 litres per minute. I bet it was like a firehose. I was thinking a 1 1/2" hose sounded big. I think mine is 1 inch.

 

[Den]

I have a semi submersible pump with a petrol type nozzle fills my tank in a few minutes.

These are old photos that green hoses kept splitting so replace with reinforced but that as also split where the hose enters the tank. 

 

[moto]

Went for the submersible pump in the end after getting advice from Lee Martin from blade Right.

What pump did you buy Algie, thanks.

 

[Algie]

What pump did you buy Algie, thanks.

The submersible one was from lidl, think they are all pretty much the same TBH.

works really well.

the one im not using any more was clark pump 1 1/2 inch bore size