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That could be your problem, both should be changed at the same time as a new and old one will flex differently and affect the handling quite dramatically.
Ah gotcha, Im currently looking for another van so will probably leave it. Its the t200 ford connect but the t230 version has a better payload so will probably go for that
 
Im sure its ok, after last mot had to have new leaf spring, It always has felt like I have to be extra careful when full, which is the way it should be really, when empty I know I can corner and stop a lot easier than otherwise
šŸ¤žI belive we are in the hands of the gods when we put our motors in a garage some are hit and miss, I do prefer to stick with a trusted garage for everything.
 
šŸ¤žI belive we are in the hands of the gods when we put our motors in a garage some are hit and miss, I do prefer to stick with a trusted garage for everything.
Not wrong there, years ago I'd bought an old mazda 626, bloke recommended by a mate done some work, I put it through its paces down the a12, Later found he hadnt tightened the wheel nuts properly. could've been disaster. Yeh if you find a goodun stick with em.
 
@spruce is the boxer a good van?


The short answer is that is been OK.

Here is the long answer.

It's a Fiat rebadged by PSA as a Citroƫn and Peugeot and now Vauxhall. Mine is a 62 plate. PSA used Ford Puma 2.2 diesel engines in the vans, as it was a deal with Ford that the cars used PSA engines and the vans used Ford engines. The selling point was that the engine used a timing chain, not a cam belt, so didn't need changing. This isn't totally correct.
Ford also promoted the fact that the engine had more grunt, (torque) than the PSA engines, but that's open to interpretation. They didn't ever mention that the Puma engine isn't as economical to run as the PSA or Iveco engines.

Fiat then went on to use the Iveco 2.3 litre engines in the Ducato. The Iveco engine was a brilliant engine, but heavier than the Puma engine, which reflected on a reduced payload. My brother-in-law has a Fiat motor home using the Iveco engine. It's more economical on fuel than my van is, even with the extra weight of the van at 3500kgs.

I bought my van 6 years ago with 89k on the clock. It was the best example I'd seen in 3 years. An ex lease vehicle in pretty good nick and had a full Peugeot service history. It has 108k on the clock.

The first thing I did was to replace the oil pump. This was a precaution as numerous vehicles using the same engine, Landrover and Transit and other Ford Vehicles, had oil pump issues between 2011 and 2013. Ford and Landrover had a recall, but PSA opted to challenge each oil pump pressure failure. The oil pump I took out of the van was in very good condition, highlighting how important a good service history is. A fellow window cleaner in Redcar purchased a similar aged LWB Citroƫn with similar mileage, with a poor service history. Not long after he purchased it, his oil pressure warning light came on. He later traded the van in for a new Citroƫn Relay.

In typical Ford fashion, they opted for a rotary vane oil pump to reduce costs. The vanes are fixed, so rely on a film of oil to 'seal' the vane's blades and the oil pump's cylinder housing. Most other manufacturers used a geared oil pump, which has worked faithfully for years, but is more expensive to manufacture. There is a company in Australia that manufacturers a geared oil pump conversion, but it is very expensive to buy and import. The other stupid idea is that the oil pump is before the filter, so any grit in the oil can scratch and damage the vanes and cylinder as it works like grinding paste. This is why it's so important to look for a van with a full dealer service history, as they, hopefully, will be using the right oil, and drain the oil via the sump bolt, rather than sucking it out through the dip stick tube.

The oil pan holds just short of 7 litres of oil, so even doing a service myself means oil and oil filter is just on Ā£70.

Ford also advise using the 10-minute oil change rule. When draining the oil, a maximum time of 10 minutes is advised to remove and replace the oil filter, then refill with new oil and start the engine. This is so the 'oil seal' in the oil pump between the vanes and cylinder remains intact to draw fresh oil back into the engine on start up. Over the years, I have always let the oil drip overnight, so this new 10-minute rule goes against the grain.

As with all Fiat produced vans, the paintwork is poor. The paint on my 04 plate Citroƫn Relay began to flake and peel, and the paint on this van is starting to do the same. Looking around, white paint is better than red and blue.

Parts are not cheap from Peugeot, and neither is their workshop labour rate. Parts are also expensive from the local motor factors. We don't fair any better using a local Peugeot/Citroƫn none dealer workshop. They buy parts from the local motor factors where they can, but charge Peugeot prices for the parts, thus making a good profit.

Any exploratory work needing a code reader needs to be done at a PSA workshop, as our ordinary code readers for DIY use are useless on my model van.

I've also had to replace my windscreen wiper motor assembly and mechanism, and also had to replace my alternator that stopped charging. Replacing the alternator was rather challenging.

On my model van, I have no idea when the DPF filter is in a regeneration cycle. There are other vans where a light on the dash comes on when this is in progress. Even doing low mileage, the DPF has worked flawlessly.

The body is galvanized dipped, so there isn't much rust. Where there is a little rust is where the paint and galvanized coating have been blasted away from road grit.

I've had to replace both rear springs as they lost their shape. That was a nightmare job.
 
Last edited:
The short answer is that is been OK.

Here is the long answer.

It's a Fiat rebadged by PSA as a Citroƫn and Peugeot and now Vauxhall. Mine is a 62 plate. PSA used Ford Puma 2.2 diesel engines in the vans, as it was a deal with Ford that the cars used PSA engines and the vans used Ford engines. The selling point was that the engine used a timing chain, not a cam belt, so didn't need changing. This isn't totally correct.
Ford also promoted the fact that the engine had more grunt, (torque) than the PSA engines, but that's open to interpretation. They didn't ever mention that the Puma engine isn't as economical to run as the PSA or Iveco engines.

Fiat then went on to use the Iveco 2.3 litre engines in the Ducato. The Iveco engine was a brilliant engine, but heavier than the Puma engine, which reflected on a reduced payload. My brother-in-law has a Fiat motor home using the Iveco engine. It's more economical on fuel than my van is, even with the extra weight of the van at 3500kgs.

I bought my van 6 years ago with 89k on the clock. It was the best example I'd seen in 3 years. An ex lease vehicle in pretty good nick and had a full Peugeot service history. It has 108k on the clock.

The first thing I did was to replace the oil pump. This was a precaution as numerous vehicles using the same engine, Landrover and Transit and other Ford Vehicles, had oil pump issues between 2011 and 2013. Ford and Landrover had a recall, but PSA opted to challenge each oil pump pressure failure. The oil pump I took out of the van was in very good condition, highlighting how important a good service history is. A fellow window cleaner in Redcar purchased a similar aged LWB Citroƫn with similar mileage, with a poor service history. Not long after he purchased it, his oil pressure warning light came on. He later traded the van in for a new Citroƫn Relay.

In typical Ford fashion, they opted for a rotary vane oil pump to reduce costs. The vanes are fixed, so rely on a film of oil to 'seal' the vane's blades and the oil pump's cylinder housing. Most other manufacturers used a geared oil pump, which has worked faithfully for years, but is more expensive to manufacture. There is a company in Australia that manufacturers a geared oil pump conversion, but it is very expensive to buy and import. The other stupid idea is that the oil pump is before the filter, so any grit in the oil can scratch and damage the vanes and cylinder as it works like grinding paste. This is why it's so important to look for a van with a full dealer service history, as they, hopefully, will be using the right oil, and drain the oil via the sump bolt, rather than sucking it out through the dip stick tube.

The oil pan holds just short of 7 litres of oil, so even doing a service myself means oil and oil filter is just on Ā£70.

Ford also advise using the 10-minute oil change rule. When draining the oil, a maximum time of 10 minutes is advised to remove and replace the oil filter, then refill with new oil and start the engine. This is so the 'oil seal' in the oil pump between the vanes and cylinder remains intact to draw fresh oil back into the engine on start up. Over the years, I have always let the oil drip overnight, so this new 10-minute rule goes against the grain.

As with all Fiat produced vans, the paintwork is poor. The paint on my 04 plate Citroƫn Relay began to flake and peel, and the paint on this van is starting to do the same. Looking around, white paint is better than red and blue.

Parts are not cheap from Peugeot, and neither is their workshop labour rate. Parts are also expensive from the local motor factors. We don't fair any better using a local Peugeot/Citroƫn none dealer workshop. They buy parts from the local motor factors where they can, but charge Peugeot prices for the parts, thus making a good profit.

Any exploratory work needing a code reader needs to be done at a PSA workshop, as our ordinary code readers for DIY use are useless on my model van.

I've also had to replace my windscreen wiper motor assembly and mechanism, and also had to replace my alternator that stopped charging. Replacing the alternator was rather challenging.

On my model van, I have no idea when the DPF filter is in a regeneration cycle. There are other vans where a light on the dash comes on when this is in progress. Even doing low mileage, the DPF has worked flawlessly.

The body is galvanized dipped, so there isn't much rust. Where there is a little rust is where the paint and galvanized coating have been blasted away from road grit.

I've had to replace both rear springs as they lost their shape. That was a nightmare job.
Thank you mate can always count on you for in depth knowledge.after reading that I think I will stay dispatch.
 
im sometimes seeing the newest Citroens broken down by roadside . That reminds me few yrs back i was bragging about my ageing Citroen van to a fellow windy -and im talking old old and he goes and buys a brand spanking new one ---but had no end of bother -The dealer fixed it every time but he had to leave it with them days each time -mostly it was the central locking playing up. I cant remember how it played out but he handed it back to the dealer it was only about a year old if that .He has never spoken to me since!
 
The short answer is that is been OK.

Here is the long answer.

It's a Fiat rebadged by PSA as a Citroƫn and Peugeot and now Vauxhall. Mine is a 62 plate. PSA used Ford Puma 2.2 diesel engines in the vans, as it was a deal with Ford that the cars used PSA engines and the vans used Ford engines. The selling point was that the engine used a timing chain, not a cam belt, so didn't need changing. This isn't totally correct.
Ford also promoted the fact that the engine had more grunt, (torque) than the PSA engines, but that's open to interpretation. They didn't ever mention that the Puma engine isn't as economical to run as the PSA or Iveco engines.

Fiat then went on to use the Iveco 2.3 litre engines in the Ducato. The Iveco engine was a brilliant engine, but heavier than the Puma engine, which reflected on a reduced payload. My brother-in-law has a Fiat motor home using the Iveco engine. It's more economical on fuel than my van is, even with the extra weight of the van at 3500kgs.

I bought my van 6 years ago with 89k on the clock. It was the best example I'd seen in 3 years. An ex lease vehicle in pretty good nick and had a full Peugeot service history. It has 108k on the clock.

The first thing I did was to replace the oil pump. This was a precaution as numerous vehicles using the same engine, Landrover and Transit and other Ford Vehicles, had oil pump issues between 2011 and 2013. Ford and Landrover had a recall, but PSA opted to challenge each oil pump pressure failure. The oil pump I took out of the van was in very good condition, highlighting how important a good service history is. A fellow window cleaner in Redcar purchased a similar aged LWB Citroƫn with similar mileage, with a poor service history. Not long after he purchased it, his oil pressure warning light came on. He later traded the van in for a new Citroƫn Relay.

In typical Ford fashion, they opted for a rotary vane oil pump to reduce costs. The vanes are fixed, so rely on a film of oil to 'seal' the vane's blades and the oil pump's cylinder housing. Most other manufacturers used a geared oil pump, which has worked faithfully for years, but is more expensive to manufacture. There is a company in Australia that manufacturers a geared oil pump conversion, but it is very expensive to buy and import. The other stupid idea is that the oil pump is before the filter, so any grit in the oil can scratch and damage the vanes and cylinder as it works like grinding paste. This is why it's so important to look for a van with a full dealer service history, as they, hopefully, will be using the right oil, and drain the oil via the sump bolt, rather than sucking it out through the dip stick tube.

The oil pan holds just short of 7 litres of oil, so even doing a service myself means oil and oil filter is just on Ā£70.

Ford also advise using the 10-minute oil change rule. When draining the oil, a maximum time of 10 minutes is advised to remove and replace the oil filter, then refill with new oil and start the engine. This is so the 'oil seal' in the oil pump between the vanes and cylinder remains intact to draw fresh oil back into the engine on start up. Over the years, I have always let the oil drip overnight, so this new 10-minute rule goes against the grain.

As with all Fiat produced vans, the paintwork is poor. The paint on my 04 plate Citroƫn Relay began to flake and peel, and the paint on this van is starting to do the same. Looking around, white paint is better than red and blue.

Parts are not cheap from Peugeot, and neither is their workshop labour rate. Parts are also expensive from the local motor factors. We don't fair any better using a local Peugeot/Citroƫn none dealer workshop. They buy parts from the local motor factors where they can, but charge Peugeot prices for the parts, thus making a good profit.

Any exploratory work needing a code reader needs to be done at a PSA workshop, as our ordinary code readers for DIY use are useless on my model van.

I've also had to replace my windscreen wiper motor assembly and mechanism, and also had to replace my alternator that stopped charging. Replacing the alternator was rather challenging.

On my model van, I have no idea when the DPF filter is in a regeneration cycle. There are other vans where a light on the dash comes on when this is in progress. Even doing low mileage, the DPF has worked flawlessly.

The body is galvanized dipped, so there isn't much rust. Where there is a little rust is where the paint and galvanized coating have been blasted away from road grit.

I've had to replace both rear springs as they lost their shape. That was a nightmare job.
Iā€™ve got another holiday coming up soon. Iā€™ll read this post then šŸ˜³
 
Not wrong there, years ago I'd bought an old mazda 626, bloke recommended by a mate done some work, I put it through its paces down the a12, Later found he hadnt tightened the wheel nuts properly. could've been disaster. Yeh if you find a goodun stick with em.
At one time it was drilled into a mechanic that he never left a vehicle with the wheel nuts not tightened and torqued even if the workshop was on fire. Only once that was done could he put the hub caps back on. That was a sign the car was alright to drive. If the hub caps weren't on, the wheel nuts hadn't been tightened.

Then alloy wheels became the fashion and that fell away.

Occasionally the workshop manager would take a repaired/serviced vehicle and check the wheel nuts had been torqued to spec.

If not then that was a written warning and the mechanic could end up losing his job if it happened too often: it was that serious.
 
Not wrong there, years ago I'd bought an old mazda 626, bloke recommended by a mate done some work, I put it through its paces down the a12, Later found he hadnt tightened the wheel nuts properly. could've been disaster. Yeh if you find a goodun stick with em.
That could have ended very badly!!

Unfortunately despite what I wrote previously, I am finding I'm going to have to change, earlier this year they put the wrong colour coolant in the reservoir and it turned brown, thankfully it didn't react and turned into a thick liquid so that had to be drained and refilled, I held off switching garages even after that,

But I have bitten the bullet and switched this week, after some conversations with the garage and a mate I've lost confidence in the garage, but I am putting my wifes' motor in first šŸ˜… the new garage does have a very good reputation though.
 
At one time it was drilled into a mechanic that he never left a vehicle with the wheel nuts not tightened and torqued even if the workshop was on fire. Only once that was done could he put the hub caps back on. That was a sign the car was alright to drive. If the hub caps weren't on, the wheel nuts hadn't been tightened.

Then alloy wheels became the fashion and that fell away.

Occasionally the workshop manager would take a repaired/serviced vehicle and check the wheel nuts had been torqued to spec.

If not then that was a written warning and the mechanic could end up losing his job if it happened too often: it was that serious.
Agree, thats the problem with a one man band in that theres no one to check up on them
 
That could have ended very badly!!

Unfortunately despite what I wrote previously, I am finding I'm going to have to change, earlier this year they put the wrong colour coolant in the reservoir and it turned brown, thankfully it didn't react and turned into a thick liquid so that had to be drained and refilled, I held off switching garages even after that,

But I have bitten the bullet and switched this week, after some conversations with the garage and a mate I've lost confidence in the garage, but I am putting my wifes' motor in first šŸ˜… the new garage does have a very good reputation though.
Thats a pain, you lose trust after these things.
 
Just looking at getting a bigger van. My Bipper is too small with 2 men and 350 litres.
Vauxhall combo at the right price has a payload of around 2
1000 kg.
Need to check now if this would do legally for 2 x 90kg blokes, new 500 litre tank and metal frame plus fuel etc.
Anybody use one or good at maths?šŸ¤£
Thanks.
 
Just looking at getting a bigger van. My Bipper is too small with 2 men and 350 litres.
Vauxhall combo at the right price has a payload of around 2
1000 kg.
Need to check now if this would do legally for 2 x 90kg blokes, new 500 litre tank and metal frame plus fuel etc.
Anybody use one or good at maths?šŸ¤£
Thanks.
I'd say you would be on the borderline with two of you at 90 kg each. You have the weight of leisure battery, fuel etc. you would probably go over. Wouldn't be able to have a roofrack or ladder or gutter vac etc. Maybe just fill the tank 70% full? crash diet?
 
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