Tank contaminated help?

[Vinny vin]

So can I remove them And like u say run the water straight from my Tap to the di vessels instead?

 

[Smurf]

Yes as most do it that way. Just adjust the tap pressure be it from the outside tap itself or an inline tap on the hose going into the first di to slow the water down to give the resin more time to work.

 

[Smurf]

To be honest like I've mentioned before with a tap water reading as low as yours you just might as well once you've sorted flushing the van tank out fill the tank with tap water. Then use the twin di's after the wfp pump so the di resin don't need to work so hard as you've in affect using twin di's pure on-demand system then.

 

[Smurf]

You can also fit an in-line tds meter to easily monitor both di vessels so you can see at a glance what reading you have coming out of both. Not only that if you get HM Digital TRM-1: Triple Inline TDS Monitor http://www.daqua.co.uk/inlinetdsmeters.htm You could also monitor what tds the water is coming out of your van tank too

 

[Smurf]

God I wish my tap water was as soft as yours as would be a dream instead of messing about with ro/di system

 

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

Vin what is your source tap water TDS?

 

[Smurf]

Vin has already mentioned in a previous post his tap water source ranges between 22- 34 ppm. I'm sure this could change though at any point if the water board are working on the mains, add extra chems and/or change the water source as they often do. I noticed that my tap water shot up another 100 ppm recently.

Vin what is your source tap water TDS?

 

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

Then I fully agree with you that a RO is completely needless! Vin you need to ditch the RO & just use your twin DI's on the van to purify on demand.

 

[Vinny vin]

Yes agree with u I I'm quite lucky how low my ppm it's almost purified before it goes in the tank.

Well last night I tried the Milton steriling liquid left it over night put fresh water on top of it and flushed it out completely. Even swilled it with my hose and after all that no joy water is still bad 81ppm in the tank . This evening I have now resorted in putting thick bleach in the tank so hoping by tomorrow this will be the end of it am leaving it in the tank over night will drain off tomorrow morning hope this works otherwise I'm stuck on what to do. (Nightmare)!

 

[Vinny vin]

Wanted to ask if I put my hose straight in to the tank with my tap water does it then after run through both di vessels or just the one?

 

[Smurf]

For an on-demad twin di van mount that you just fill the tank with tap water connect the first di inlet to the oulet of your pump. Connect the outlet of the first di to the inlet of the second di. Then connect the outlet of the second di to your hose reel. It's nothing more complecated than that.

Wanted to ask if I put my hose straight in to the tank with my tap water does it then after run through both di vessels or just the one?

 

[Smurf]

I still can get my head around why your van tank is still reading 81 ppm. Did you not do what I suggested and that was to open the outlet of the tank and run a hose to the drain and flush it out with tap water until the reading drops down to the same tds reading of the tap water?

That is a simple way of finding out without removing the tank out of the van if the tank water is contaminated or something else in the tank is causing the tds to rise.

Now you have put bleach in the tank it will need a good flush through anyway for quite a long time so do what I have suggested and then see if that works or not.

Oviously it goes without saying do not run the wfp pump or have the di's connected while bleach is still in the system.

 

[Vinny vin]

if I've already put bleach in I will need to use the pump to drain the water out or is there another way?

 

[Smurf]

You will bugger up the the wfp pump if you do for sure as it's not chemical resistant especially running bleach through it no matter how diluted it may be

 

[Smurf]

Your tank should have an oulet with a tap with a hose on it already that goes to your wfp pump. YES?

 

[Smurf]

Turn the tap off on the outlet of your tank and disconnect the hose from it that goes to your wfp pump. Then attach another length of garden hose to the outlet of you tank so it runs into the nearest drain or best place to drain away. Then turn on the tank outlet tap so starts to drain the tank. After doing so connect a garden feed hose from your tap directly into your tank inlet and start to flush the tank out for a good hours or so making sure if you dont have a tank float valve fitted you don't overfill the tank as it will probably fill quicker than drain away from the open tank outlet.

 

[Vinny vin]

Smurf id be lost without ya mate and also a buggered up system!

 

[Smurf]

No probs...let me know if you need anymore help

 

[Smurf]

Well doing what I suggested did it fix the problem today or not @Vinny vin ?

 

[Vinny vin]

Smurf, no joy yet mate I went to do a big commercial clean Sunday morning doing internal windows, after that my daughter was performing on stage so didn't get back till 6pm. I started flushin/ draining tank till half 11 . Then left it to drain out over night now this morning I've been flushing and draining the water out but did use quite a bit of bleach. Now the water draining out the bottom is only 15/25 ppm but the water sitting in the tank is at 81ppm so still think there's some bleach that needs to flush out 1st. I'm pulling my hair out should of started work by now

 

[Smurf]

When flushing the tank that way eventually there will be no high ppm in your tank left at the bottom as gets watered down by lower ppm going into your tank.

Sorry but Just out of curiosity you say you have tested the water coming out of the tank outlet whilst just filling the tank with normal tap water. YES?

Now the ppm is dropping down to 15/25 ppm. YES?

My questions are as follows:

How the hell does that work as is actually lower than the ppm of the tap water you are flushing it with?

How are you testing the bottom of the tank with the remaining water left in it?