Greener
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Thanks for your answer @spruce /emoticons/smile.png I was looking at upgrading to a 6/7 ltr di vessel but couldn't find any connecting fittings for the di vessel that would fit the ¼" tubbing that's used with the 450gpd ro system.Yes, I added 2 more so ended up with 3. /emoticons/wink.png
Deionization Units : Deionization (DI) Polishing Unit 1400ml
That worked as our tap water tds is so low. I used to replace the resin every 3 months when I replaced the prefilters.
My 450gpd r/o was screwed onto the garage wall so I fitted the extra 2 resin housings underneath it. In winter I used to put a towel over the system and put a 100 watt light bulb in my mechanics lead light underneath it to keep it from freezing up. It worked like that for 7 winters without issue. I reasoned that having a di vessel would necessitate me finding another way to keep the system from freezing up.
In hindsight, I should have bought a 6 liter di vessel rather than waste money on 2 more housings with resin canisters. The good thing about have a low rejection rate of 2 is that we can clean windows with that and get away with it. So ensuring the resin was changed at exactly the right time wasn't the highest priority. I did used to check the output and would always change resin the moment the water in the van's tank went to 1ppm. It was easier to test the water in the vans tank than the ibc tank.
The only time when I started to get into trouble was when the membranes were at the end of their life. The rejection rate was increasing and I ended up replacing resin each time I filled the IBC tank.
Rather than replacing the membranes I bought all the components to put a bespoke 4040 together in a purpose made, thermostatically controlled heated cabinet. That took a little more time than I first thought.