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Johnwindow1987

I placed a order for new filters for my 40/40 system and the have sent me these and iv never seen them. Has anyone? Thanks John IMG_0982.PNG

 

 

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Iron Giant

 

GAC Granulated Activated Coconut Carbon Filter

In the GAC filter, water flows through a filter full of activated coconut carbon granules which removes chlorine, organic contaminants, chemicals, and undesirable tastes and odours. This is based on providing maximum surface area of carbon granules exposed to your water. Has a higher filtration capacity than a GAC Filter that is made from mined carbon. 

No idea about the quality or how good or bad they could be or if they are even suitable for your set up @spruce maybe able to shed some light.

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Johnwindow1987

Thankyou for that. I hope someone can tell me if it’s ok to use or do I need to send back [emoji848]


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AGlassAct

It’s not a GAC iron giant it’s a CWC (carbon wrapped cartridge). The GAC - listed on the site, has a longer service life than the CWC but is more than adequate for what you need - although it has a pretty short service life. The carbon filter of choice by many is the pentek fibredyne filter (Gardiner pole systems sell them) although grippatank sell a CFBC version which has double the rated life (75k for a 10” filter and 150k for the 20”). I believe Gardiner’s are discontinuing the consumables range soon though.


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Iron Giant
It’s not a GAC iron giant it’s a CWC (carbon wrapped cartridge). The GAC - listed on the site, has a longer service life than the CWC but is more than adequate for what you need - although it has a pretty short service life. The carbon filter of choice by many is the pentek fibredyne filter (Gardiner pole systems sell them) although grippatank sell a CFBC version which has double the rated life (75k for a 10” filter and 150k for the 20”). I believe Gardiner’s are discontinuing the consumables range soon though.


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It was the only one I could find after looking on their site, Agreed better off buying pentek off a dedicated supplier of wfp equipment.

With respect if lads don't want they should be buying then it's pointless using a website with inadequate information for wfp use.

County Durham Lad

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P4dstar
It’s not a GAC iron giant it’s a CWC (carbon wrapped cartridge). The GAC - listed on the site, has a longer service life than the CWC but is more than adequate for what you need - although it has a pretty short service life. The carbon filter of choice by many is the pentek fibredyne filter (Gardiner pole systems sell them) although grippatank sell a CFBC version which has double the rated life (75k for a 10” filter and 150k for the 20”). I believe Gardiner’s are discontinuing the consumables range soon though.


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Hang on a sec.... am I to understand that my 20’’ carbon filter should last for 150k litres, not just 75k??


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AGlassAct

No - the Gardiner ones (pentek CFB) are 75k the grippa ones CFBC last for 152k for the 20”. I’ve been trying to source the Pentek CFBC 20” form other suppliers for around 2 years now but no one is interested in stocking them. Looks like the only option is grippa from now on.


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spruce
12 minutes ago, AGlassAct said:

No - the Gardiner ones (pentek CFB) are 75k the grippa ones CFBC last for 152k for the 20”. I’ve been trying to source the Pentek CFBC 20” form other suppliers for around 2 years now but no one is interested in stocking them. Looks like the only option is grippa from now on.


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What about GAPs water?

 

21 minutes ago, P4dstar said:


Hang on a sec.... am I to understand that my 20’’ carbon filter should last for 150k litres, not just 75k??


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I once bought a 150k carbon block filter. It was expensive. It was also a 1 micron as apposed to the 5 micron of the Fiberdyne filter I currently use.

 

The problem was that it wasn't long before the 1 micron filter was blocked up with fine sediment. It was useless after 30,000 liters.

 

I have always used a 5 micron sediment filter. Any particles less than 5 micron pass through the sediment filter and into the carbon filter. As the carbon filter is 5 micron, it passes through that as well and into the r/o membranes. So with the 1 micron carbon filter it was catching all particles between 4 and 1 micron so both sediment and carbon block filters became blocked.

I also found from the onset that the 1 micron restricted water flow through the prefilters. I have a pressure gauge each side of the prefilters and the gauge after the c/b filter was 5psi down on the input pressure.

 

These days if we get water with high sediment, I only have to change the sediment filter if the c/b isn't due for replacement.

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spruce
12 hours ago, Johnwindow1987 said:

 

I placed a order for new filters for my 40/40 system and the have sent me these and iv never seen them. Has anyone? Thanks John IMG_0982.PNG

 

 

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They report a service life of 37,000 liters of chlorine reduction on the 20" and half that on the 10". I always get concerned when the supplier has his own label printed on the component. My first question is why?

I appreciate the reason for rebadging could well be image related, but on something like this?

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Johnwindow1987

I think after that I’ll pop to window cleaning warehouse and get the one I should have had don’t want to mess my membrane up .


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Johnwindow1987

Can someone tell me what two filters should go in a 40/40 system is it one paper and one carbon block ? Thanks


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spruce
1 hour ago, Johnwindow1987 said:

Can someone tell me what two filters should go in a 40/40 system is it one paper and one carbon block ? Thanks


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It depends on what size prefilters the original suppliers supplied.

Some supply 10" and other 20".

 

Mine are 20" because that's what I wanted.

So if I go the Grippatank water I would order

 

1 sediment filter

 

I can't see a separate sediment filter listed on their site. So I would phone and ask them. They could be selling the Fiberdyne as a combo filter (sediment and carbon block) but we have to much sediment in our water to go to just a single filter.

So I would order this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-20-5-micron-pp-sediment-water-filter-RO-reverse-osmosis-window-cleaning/152070891422?epid=1560888493&hash=item236821a79e:g:sfUAAOSwO~hXIc~I

 

 

1 Fiberdyne carbon block

https://www.grippatank.co.uk/fibredyne-cfb-plus-sediment-carbon-pre-filter-20-2013-09-18

 

If I have 10" filters then I would order those.

 

I see GAP water also do a Fiberdyne filter but sell a sediment filter in a set with a cheap carbon block.

 

Shame Gardiners aren't doing filters any more.

Edited by spruce

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Johnwindow1987

I have 20” filters 2.


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P4dstar
On 18/08/2018 at 09:59, spruce said:

What about GAPs water?

 

I once bought a 150k carbon block filter. It was expensive. It was also a 1 micron as apposed to the 5 micron of the Fiberdyne filter I currently use.

 

The problem was that it wasn't long before the 1 micron filter was blocked up with fine sediment. It was useless after 30,000 liters.

 

I have always used a 5 micron sediment filter. Any particles less than 5 micron pass through the sediment filter and into the carbon filter. As the carbon filter is 5 micron, it passes through that as well and into the r/o membranes. So with the 1 micron carbon filter it was catching all particles between 4 and 1 micron so both sediment and carbon block filters became blocked.

I also found from the onset that the 1 micron restricted water flow through the prefilters. I have a pressure gauge each side of the prefilters and the gauge after the c/b filter was 5psi down on the input pressure.

 

These days if we get water with high sediment, I only have to change the sediment filter if the c/b isn't due for replacement.

I got one of those flow meters you recommended, I have been changing the sediment filter at 25k and I intended to change the carbon at 75k but ended up changing it earlier. I thought there was an issue with the filter, it was only bringing 400TDS down to 29, I think its actually because of the lack of pressure going through the membrane (35-40ish PSI) I made the call that I was better changing the resin more often than investing in a booster pump. The water round here fluctuates between 200 and 400 TDS. I only have a one man system at the mo so I check the input TDS and just unplug it and go back later if its over 300. I think if and when I move on to a two man system I will just get a second IBC and connect the two, then I can purify a couple of thousand litres overnight when the water is good and just keep topping it up.

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spruce
3 hours ago, P4dstar said:

I got one of those flow meters you recommended, I have been changing the sediment filter at 25k and I intended to change the carbon at 75k but ended up changing it earlier. I thought there was an issue with the filter, it was only bringing 400TDS down to 29, I think its actually because of the lack of pressure going through the membrane (35-40ish PSI) I made the call that I was better changing the resin more often than investing in a booster pump. The water round here fluctuates between 200 and 400 TDS. I only have a one man system at the mo so I check the input TDS and just unplug it and go back later if its over 300. I think if and when I move on to a two man system I will just get a second IBC and connect the two, then I can purify a couple of thousand litres overnight when the water is good and just keep topping it up.

 

I find that when the sediment filter started to clog up with sediment the pressure drops as the flow is reduced. I have a pressure guage each side of the prefilters. When the filters are new both gauges read 50psi. But as the sediment filter clogs up the preesure after the c/b filter drops. The lowest I let it drop to is 40psi. Just changing the sediment filter will restore the second gauge to read the same as the first one. There are times when I change only the sediment filter once a month and both filters every 3 months.

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Robt100

Thought id tag on the end of this thread as I've got a few pre-filter queries..
Running a daqua 4021 with the two 10" pre-filters, currently 1 sediment and 1 carbon.
Now, from what I read most places say if you get the Fibredyne CFB-Plus filter then you do not also need a carbon filter, is this correct? Yet looking at the CFBC "high performance" version on the grippatank website, it suggests using a 10micron sediment filter too, yet in the description it calls it a 'sediment/carbon filter'. So is it or isn't it, it can't be both!
The water here is 400ppm and very limescaley (cant clean the car with the tap water as it just leaves white stains as it dries), so Im thinking I may need a sediment filter anyway no matter which I choose, if someone could englighten me that would be great, as I'm due to replace my RO membrane in a few weeks and want the correct filters to go with it.

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P4dstar
2 hours ago, Robt100 said:

Thought id tag on the end of this thread as I've got a few pre-filter queries..
Running a daqua 4021 with the two 10" pre-filters, currently 1 sediment and 1 carbon.
Now, from what I read most places say if you get the Fibredyne CFB-Plus filter then you do not also need a carbon filter, is this correct? Yet looking at the CFBC "high performance" version on the grippatank website, it suggests using a 10micron sediment filter too, yet in the description it calls it a 'sediment/carbon filter'. So is it or isn't it, it can't be both!
The water here is 400ppm and very limescaley (cant clean the car with the tap water as it just leaves white stains as it dries), so Im thinking I may need a sediment filter anyway no matter which I choose, if someone could englighten me that would be great, as I'm due to replace my RO membrane in a few weeks and want the correct filters to go with it.

You can get a calcium filter that you fit before the sediment and carbon filters mate, probably a good idea by the sound of it.

 

A sediment filter is a sediment filter and a carbon filter is a carbon sediment filter (this is my understanding). Regardless of the calcium filter you need a sediment and a carbon filter before the RO.

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