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Switching to WFP

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Halesy

Member
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21
Hi everyone. So after 20+ years cleaning windows traditionally, I'm now strongly considering moving over to WFP. Main reasons being now iv hit 40 and got a family at home u start realise the dangers of the job plus I'm so busy hoping b able get more done daily. Anyway I'm looking at a static system in the garage and hoping to get everything I need, poles brushes ect around the 2k mark if possible. I brought a tds reader and have extremely hard water the reading was around 370. What would people reccomend for a static set up please. Iv watched and read so many different things it's hard to decide. Sorry for the long questions. Any help will b greatly appreciated
 
Hi everyone. So after 20+ years cleaning windows traditionally, I'm now strongly considering moving over to WFP. Main reasons being now iv hit 40 and got a family at home u start realise the dangers of the job plus I'm so busy hoping b able get more done daily. Anyway I'm looking at a static system in the garage and hoping to get everything I need, poles brushes ect around the 2k mark if possible. I brought a tds reader and have extremely hard water the reading was around 370. What would people reccomend for a static set up please. Iv watched and read so many different things it's hard to decide. Sorry for the long questions. Any help will b greatly appreciated
Hello halesy,go on daqua website,they have good static sets ups for around 700 quid,thats the 4040 which is what most use an the fella who owns daqua is on here an a sound fella,slx poles are really good an lighweight,do you know what sruff you need to get started.
 
Hello halesy,go on daqua website,they have good static sets ups for around 700 quid,thats the 4040 which is what most use an the fella who owns daqua is on here an a sound fella,slx poles are really good an lighweight,do you know what sruff you need to get started.
Hi francie thanks for the reply. I will check that website out. I think I know mostly I have been doing alot research its not something Iv rushed in to. It feels big step. It's always been nice and easy doing tradional way. I'm sure there going b plenty little things i dont knoe about yet. Yea I was torn between the slx and the ova 8 pole. With my tds so High don't know if il need a water softener aswell
 
Hi. By 'static system' do you mean an RO (reverse osmosis unit)? If so, I don't know much about that, frankly the idea of setting one up freaks me out a bit, it seems so complicated (yeah I know you guys who've done are probably thinking "WHAT!?", lol)

If not, these are the things I'd recommend:

2 resin pots - one to filter the water and the second to polish and also act as a buffer so you don't get stuffed when the resin in the first pot starts to turn

At least 2 TDS meters - Check the first pot output regularly - I don't run my water past 005 ppm. You could maybe get away with more, but I wouldn't do it personally. Keep them on the van/car to be able to monitor water 'in the field' if need be.

Hose and fittings to connect your resin pots to an outside tap - also make sure you don't connect your resin pots the wrong way round, there is an input and an output.

Tank in vehicle, or 20-25l water barrels - make sure they are secure in the vehicle


I think that's it for the water side. Then for the use side:

Pole - so many on offer, I'm currently using Gardiner X-Treme 25 - it was pricey, but I have an ongoing rotator cuff injury, so any weight off is worth the cost to me, but you can use anything that works for you, just do some research.

Brush - again, very much personal preference. By default I use a Gardiners 45cm with 4 pencil jets, but I also carry other brushes too and swap them out as needed. For example, 45cm is too big for some windows.

Hose & fittings - to connect your hose to your water supply. I'd personally suggest some kind of flow control too, I use a twist-tap setup to stop the water when I'm not washing, but there are a good few other ways of doing it.


Then for the water supply side, either:

A back pack, which you carry/wheel with you and load in your vehicle (which will require water barrels)as,

or

A vehicle mounted system (which will require the tank mentioned above), consisting of a flow controller, filter and pump. I switched to this from a backpack last year and prefer it, but it depends what works for you. If you choose this though, you will probably want/need a 100m hose and reel to work out the back.


I think that's the major constituents of the system, though I've probably forgotten something blindingly obvious that someone else will mention! Lol.

A couple more thoughts too. Get your technique nailed at home and on friends and family's houses. If you know a windy nearby and are on good terms, I'd suggest getting him to liase with you on your technique, maybe even go out with him for a couple of days. It shouldn't take long, but you will be leaving the windows wet most of the time, so it may be difficult to know if they're clean, so knowing your technique is good will help you to have confidence in your work.

When you start, it'll take more time to work. Hoses will get tangled, your route-planning around houses might be inefficient, but be patient it'll happen.

Don't scrimp on water flow - in my experience, higher flows generally mean quicker, cleaner work (although not so high the water is bouncing off the glass!). You can scrimp on water to try and save, but you'll end up needing multiple rinse passes on a lot of windows, so you'll be working slower and probably using the same amount of water anyway!

DON'T NEGLECT YOUR BODY - drink enough water and ensure you stretch out enough. Don't work with your elbows above shoulder height as a matter of routine. Be careful not to hunch your shoulders, and develop a technique where your shoulder-blades sit comfortably, but not raised or tightened. This amount and type of work on your body can be pretty taxing to start with and you don't want to develop/worsen issues like rotator cuff injuries (shoulder) or neck strain.

Just my initial thoughts, I'm sure plenty of others will add theirs too. Happy for you to pm me too if you want to ask further. Hope it works out.
 
The reality is you are only going to get a full static setup plus poles etc for 2k if you go down the backpack and trolley route and that will eat up most of your budget, I'd look at stretching your budget to get a professionally fitted system 400ltrs plus in your van and if there is a Spotless water station near you fill up there until you get some funds built back up to buy a static R/O system with DI

I have one of these with the powered reel Facelift 425 ltr compact WCW charge £400 to fit the system but I had mine fitted at my local garage and got someone to do some fabricating for the supplied brackets, I paid £300 but this saved me driving 100's of miles to get it fitted, It's a great system and perfect for my needs but I wouldn't buy anything else I need from them for me it's Gardiner poles and for filtration Daqua
 
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Hi francie thanks for the reply. I will check that website out. I think I know mostly I have been doing alot research its not something Iv rushed in to. It feels big step. It's always been nice and easy doing tradional way. I'm sure there going b plenty little things i dont knoe about yet. Yea I was torn between the slx and the ova 8 pole. With my tds so High don't know if il need a water softener aswell
I have owned an ova 8 and currently own a slx. Both poles are excellant but to me the slx is the better pole. Great value for money. My advice to you would be to go out with a couple of window cleaners for the day. Its the best way of learning the trade.
 
Hi francie thanks for the reply. I will check that website out. I think I know mostly I have been doing alot research its not something Iv rushed in to. It feels big step. It's always been nice and easy doing tradional way. I'm sure there going b plenty little things i dont knoe about yet. Yea I was torn between the slx and the ova 8 pole. With my tds so High don't know if il need a water softener aswell
Plenty of sound lads on here to help you out halesly.
Water softner as in a di vessel?you will definatley need one to polish the water to 0ppm,if you get the 4040 it should bring it down to under 20ppm maybe 15ppm then the di will do the rest.
 
Hi. By 'static system' do you mean an RO (reverse osmosis unit)? If so, I don't know much about that, frankly the idea of setting one up freaks me out a bit, it seems so complicated (yeah I know you guys who've done are probably thinking "WHAT!?", lol)

If not, these are the things I'd recommend:

2 resin pots - one to filter the water and the second to polish and also act as a buffer so you don't get stuffed when the resin in the first pot starts to turn

At least 2 TDS meters - Check the first pot output regularly - I don't run my water past 005 ppm. You could maybe get away with more, but I wouldn't do it personally. Keep them on the van/car to be able to monitor water 'in the field' if need be.

Hose and fittings to connect your resin pots to an outside tap - also make sure you don't connect your resin pots the wrong way round, there is an input and an output.

Tank in vehicle, or 20-25l water barrels - make sure they are secure in the vehicle


I think that's it for the water side. Then for the use side:

Pole - so many on offer, I'm currently using Gardiner X-Treme 25 - it was pricey, but I have an ongoing rotator cuff injury, so any weight off is worth the cost to me, but you can use anything that works for you, just do some research.

Brush - again, very much personal preference. By default I use a Gardiners 45cm with 4 pencil jets, but I also carry other brushes too and swap them out as needed. For example, 45cm is too big for some windows.

Hose & fittings - to connect your hose to your water supply. I'd personally suggest some kind of flow control too, I use a twist-tap setup to stop the water when I'm not washing, but there are a good few other ways of doing it.


Then for the water supply side, either:

A back pack, which you carry/wheel with you and load in your vehicle (which will require water barrels)as,

or

A vehicle mounted system (which will require the tank mentioned above), consisting of a flow controller, filter and pump. I switched to this from a backpack last year and prefer it, but it depends what works for you. If you choose this though, you will probably want/need a 100m hose and reel to work out the back.


I think that's the major constituents of the system, though I've probably forgotten something blindingly obvious that someone else will mention! Lol.

A couple more thoughts too. Get your technique nailed at home and on friends and family's houses. If you know a windy nearby and are on good terms, I'd suggest getting him to liase with you on your technique, maybe even go out with him for a couple of days. It shouldn't take long, but you will be leaving the windows wet most of the time, so it may be difficult to know if they're clean, so knowing your technique is good will help you to have confidence in your work.

When you start, it'll take more time to work. Hoses will get tangled, your route-planning around houses might be inefficient, but be patient it'll happen.

Don't scrimp on water flow - in my experience, higher flows generally mean quicker, cleaner work (although not so high the water is bouncing off the glass!). You can scrimp on water to try and save, but you'll end up needing multiple rinse passes on a lot of windows, so you'll be working slower and probably using the same amount of water anyway!

DON'T NEGLECT YOUR BODY - drink enough water and ensure you stretch out enough. Don't work with your elbows above shoulder height as a matter of routine. Be careful not to hunch your shoulders, and develop a technique where your shoulder-blades sit comfortably, but not raised or tightened. This amount and type of work on your body can be pretty taxing to start with and you don't want to develop/worsen issues like rotator cuff injuries (shoulder) or neck strain.

Just my initial thoughts, I'm sure plenty of others will add theirs too. Happy for you to pm me too if you want to ask further. Hope it works out.
Hi thank you for the reply. By static I mean a ro 40 40
Hi. By 'static system' do you mean an RO (reverse osmosis unit)? If so, I don't know much about that, frankly the idea of setting one up freaks me out a bit, it seems so complicated (yeah I know you guys who've done are probably thinking "WHAT!?", lol)

If not, these are the things I'd recommend:

2 resin pots - one to filter the water and the second to polish and also act as a buffer so you don't get stuffed when the resin in the first pot starts to turn

At least 2 TDS meters - Check the first pot output regularly - I don't run my water past 005 ppm. You could maybe get away with more, but I wouldn't do it personally. Keep them on the van/car to be able to monitor water 'in the field' if need be.

Hose and fittings to connect your resin pots to an outside tap - also make sure you don't connect your resin pots the wrong way round, there is an input and an output.

Tank in vehicle, or 20-25l water barrels - make sure they are secure in the vehicle


I think that's it for the water side. Then for the use side:

Pole - so many on offer, I'm currently using Gardiner X-Treme 25 - it was pricey, but I have an ongoing rotator cuff injury, so any weight off is worth the cost to me, but you can use anything that works for you, just do some research.

Brush - again, very much personal preference. By default I use a Gardiners 45cm with 4 pencil jets, but I also carry other brushes too and swap them out as needed. For example, 45cm is too big for some windows.

Hose & fittings - to connect your hose to your water supply. I'd personally suggest some kind of flow control too, I use a twist-tap setup to stop the water when I'm not washing, but there are a good few other ways of doing it.


Then for the water supply side, either:

A back pack, which you carry/wheel with you and load in your vehicle (which will require water barrels)as,

or

A vehicle mounted system (which will require the tank mentioned above), consisting of a flow controller, filter and pump. I switched to this from a backpack last year and prefer it, but it depends what works for you. If you choose this though, you will probably want/need a 100m hose and reel to work out the back.


I think that's the major constituents of the system, though I've probably forgotten something blindingly obvious that someone else will mention! Lol.

A couple more thoughts too. Get your technique nailed at home and on friends and family's houses. If you know a windy nearby and are on good terms, I'd suggest getting him to liase with you on your technique, maybe even go out with him for a couple of days. It shouldn't take long, but you will be leaving the windows wet most of the time, so it may be difficult to know if they're clean, so knowing your technique is good will help you to have confidence in your work.

When you start, it'll take more time to work. Hoses will get tangled, your route-planning around houses might be inefficient, but be patient it'll happen.

Don't scrimp on water flow - in my experience, higher flows generally mean quicker, cleaner work (although not so high the water is bouncing off the glass!). You can scrimp on water to try and save, but you'll end up needing multiple rinse passes on a lot of windows, so you'll be working slower and probably using the same amount of water anyway!

DON'T NEGLECT YOUR BODY - drink enough water and ensure you stretch out enough. Don't work with your elbows above shoulder height as a matter of routine. Be careful not to hunch your shoulders, and develop a technique where your shoulder-blades sit comfortably, but not raised or tightened. This amount and type of work on your body can be pretty taxing to start with and you don't want to develop/worsen issues like rotator cuff injuries (shoulder) or neck strain.

Just my initial thoughts, I'm sure plenty of others will add theirs too. Happy for you to pm me too if you want to ask further. Hope it works out.

system in garage with a 1000l tank and water pump to a 350l tank in a van. Using a long hose and pole.
I did look at van systems with x line and brodex but seem alot more expensive then doing it at home in garage as I need to buy a van aswell. Always work from a car doing it tradional way.
I really appreciate all your other advice. It seems such a big step but will benefit me in the long run
 
The reality is you are only going to get a full static setup plus poles etc for 2k if you go down the backpack and trolley route and that will eat up most of your budget, I'd look at stretching your budget to get a professionally fitted system 400ltrs plus in your van and if there is a Spotless water station near you fill up there until you get some funds built back up to buy a static R/O system with DI

I have one of these with the powered reel Facelift 425 ltr compact WCW charge £400 to fit the system but I had mine fitted at my local garage and got someone to do some fabricating for the supplied brackets, I paid £300 but this saved me driving 100's of miles to get it fitted, It's a great system and perfect for my needs but I wouldn't buy anything else I need from them for me it's Gardiner poles and for filtration Daqua
Hi thanks for reply. Unfortunately have no spotless station near me the nearest is 45 mins away. I did consider a van system looked at x line and brodex but felt price compared to making pure water at home was 2 much. Basically I have around a 5k budget but that needs include a van as always worked from a car doing it tradional that's y was hoping for around 2k mark with a 1000l tank at home and a 350l tank in van using a water pump.
I might have a look at this face-lift system tho as have friends who own a garage. Thanks again
 
I have owned an ova 8 and currently own a slx. Both poles are excellant but to me the slx is the better pole. Great value for money. My advice to you would be to go out with a couple of window cleaners for the day. Its the best way of learning the trade.
Thanks mate have u experienced any spinning issues with the slx?
 
From what I have read switching from trad to wfp will actually slow you down for a while. Once you have your hand in so to speak you will speed up quite dramatically and dare I say be quicker than trad. You might find some jobs are quicker trad so don't throw your kit away :) Effectively all your cleans will be first cleans as you will be squirting water where you never had before, so lots of dirt will wash out plus your technique won't be refined so you will be slow. Don't worry about speed though as it will come.
Personally I have only used Gardiners poles and find them great - they will spin but just tighten the clamps and try and clean them regularly and you should be fine - I believe ova8 poles are heavier for same length.
If you are going to stick to your budget something must give - i.e. a van mounted system (even diy - you need to bolt the tank in with a frame for your safety), with a RO/Di system (you need ro & di for tds of 370) and a tank at home plus pole and a couple of brushes plus reel, pump, pump controller, leisure battery etc.
One big initial saving is if you have spotless water local to you, you can fill your tank (at a cost) the night before and be ready to go. You could work out of your car but with barrels of water and a backpack but you will be significantly slower than a van mounted system when you get up to speed.
 
Hi thanks for reply. Unfortunately have no spotless station near me the nearest is 45 mins away. I did consider a van system looked at x line and brodex but felt price compared to making pure water at home was 2 much. Basically I have around a 5k budget but that needs include a van as always worked from a car doing it tradional that's y was hoping for around 2k mark with a 1000l tank at home and a 350l tank in van using a water pump.
I might have a look at this face-lift system tho as have friends who own a garage. Thanks again
I wouldn't touch Brodex with someone else's barge pole never mind my own they are renowned for appalling customer service and X-line aren't great either going off what has been said in recent months,

Window Cleaning warehouse do fitting in Liverpool if you aren't too far from them, I'd definitely recommend there systems

Sometimes other window cleaners supply other lads with water if they are able to, some lads on Facebook do, so worth asking around either on here, Facebook or local to you.

A 350ltr system isn't quite enough on some days I had a 350ltr Purefreedom system in my old van but would need to carry x2 25ltr containers as well, better to go a bit bigger glad I did when I switched vans
 
I wouldn't touch Brodex with someone else's barge pole never mind my own they are renowned for appalling customer service and X-line aren't great either going off what has been said in recent months,

Window Cleaning warehouse do fitting in Liverpool if you aren't too far from them, I'd definitely recommend there systems

Sometimes other window cleaners supply other lads with water if they are able to, some lads on Facebook do, so worth asking around either on here, Facebook or local to you.

A 350ltr system isn't quite enough on some days I had a 350ltr Purefreedom system in my old van but would need to carry x2 25ltr containers as well, better to go a bit bigger glad I did when I switched vans
Yea I really didn't like brodex when spoke to them. Was literally on phone for about 3 mins then they sent me quote. Didn't explain anything. X line was fantastic spent good 45 mins going thru everything with them but very expensive. Few years back before kids and house extension it would have been no brainer to go down van fitted system. Still starting to feel like best option. It is a long term investment till retirement lol
 
As others have said, with that kind of TDS reading you will need an RO as well as DI resin. £2k would be very tight to get everything, even if most stuff was DIY'd and just paid for someone to bolt in the tank you would be hard pushed to get it to that price.
As for setup etc, where are you located @Halesy ? As there may be a fellow cleaner who is local who could help out/give pointers. Im guessing somewhere in EAst Anglia with that TDS reading :oops:
 
As others have said, with that kind of TDS reading you will need an RO as well as DI resin. £2k would be very tight to get everything, even if most stuff was DIY'd and just paid for someone to bolt in the tank you would be hard pushed to get it to that price.
As for setup etc, where are you located @Halesy ? As there may be a fellow cleaner who is local who could help out/give pointers. Im guessing somewhere in EAst Anglia with that TDS reading :oops:
You are spot on mate. I am in lowestoft
 
First of all @Halesy , my suggestion would be to change customers over in stages. If you don't then it will drive you crazy doing it all one time.

You purchased a tds meter, and yes, your water is hard. That's the first thing to buy. Secondly, you need to buy a water pressure gauge (Screwfix sell them) to see what your water pressure is from your tap and, thirdly, you need to measure how much water comes out of your tap in litres per minute.

Look at PF and copy their static system

You will need a transfer pump/submersible pump and transfer hose. I added a float switch and normally closed solenoid valve. When the tank is full the solenoid valve closes ad switch the water supply to the r/o off.

I purchased a used IBC tank for £50. It was local, so I collected it in my van.
 
you will encounter some resistance from the customers, if i was you id practice on your own windows first so when you start it on your round theres not going to be any mistakes, the customers who think it doesn’t work minds will be made up after one clean if its left A mess.

this might not be what you want to hear either but when i changed over i done them 3 times the first time, it took ages, done that 4 hours a day then worked off a ladder at the next bit for the rest of the day so money was still getting made,
 

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