Pressure switch fault

Pressure switch fault.

Have just put in the new pump and controller and I’m getting the PS fault on the controller not sure how to reset that, any help would be much Appreciated, I’m slightly unconvinced by the in-line fuse holder supplied, The controller is reading the battery voltage correctly

Dragbag said:

Pressure switch fault.

Have just put in the new pump and controller and I’m getting the PS fault on the controller not sure how to reset that, any help would be much Appreciated, I’m slightly unconvinced by the in-line fuse holder supplied, The controller is reading the battery voltage correctly

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The pressure switch has activated because the pump is up to pressure.

Is that valve after your pump open?

Do you have a flow to the hose reel if you disconnect it?

Have you plugged my pole in to the other end of the hose reel properly to open the female stop connector?

Is the contol tap or Univalve open to allow water to the jets?

just click on the link and follow the instructions

http://springltd.co/home

go to WFP on the top bar and a drop down tab appears click on support to view a whole list of answers to yours and other things these controllers kick out.

in all honesty it will be that the dead end isn't set high enough or not at all and yes a decent fuse holder would save a few problems in the future, the problem is spring have to make everything so simple and idiot proof for people to install that they create problems with the connections in the future

Ime guessing the controller will need re calibrating if you have fitted a new pump this might sort it out 

Pjj said:

Ime guessing the controller will need re calibrating if you have fitted a new pump this might sort it out 

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The controller is flashing PS which means the pressure switch is activating, not dead ending as that would flash DE. As its a new pump I believe we would have to assume that the pressure switch is working correctly with the pressure switch set at 100psi. The other point made by @kevinc250 is that of a poor electrical connection between the pump and controller.

Again, because the pump and controller are new we would have to assume that all connections are firm and made properly.

Also check you ain't got air in the system. 

spruce said:

The controller is flashing PS which means the pressure switch is activating, not dead ending as that would flash DE. As its a new pump I believe we would have to assume that the pressure switch is working correctly with the pressure switch set at 100psi. The other point made by @kevinc250 is that of a poor electrical connection between the pump and controller.

Again, because the pump and controller are new we would have to assume that all connections are firm and made properly.

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I have had the same thing happen with mine now and again when calibrating with ambient temperature water it works fine , once the tank of water is very hot after lunch mine will flash ps if I re calibrate with hot water it will stop doing this , ???? Ime no electronics guru but I found this sorted the problem no idear why , I have found this happens only in extream low temprachures , any explanation  @spruce???? I understand about the viscosity of hot/ cold water being different and assumed that’s why I had no problems after re calibrating  

Pjj said:

I have had the same thing happen with mine now and again when calibrating with ambient temperature water it works fine , once the tank of water is very hot after lunch mine will flash ps if I re calibrate with hot water it will stop doing this , ???? Ime no electronics guru but I found this sorted the problem no idear why , I have found this happens only in extream low temprachures , any explanation  @spruce???? I understand about the viscosity of hot/ cold water being different and assumed that’s why I had no problems after re calibrating  

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Sorry, I don't know why that is. If PS is showing then the pressure switch has deactivated as the full pressure has been reached in the system. If there is another faulty connection on the pump side of the controller, either on the negative or positive side then the controller is going to 'see' that 'break' in connection as a pressure switch deactivation and flash up PS.

set the pressure switch to somewhere near 60-it should work then if all the conections are correct and then work from that, if i'm honest i'm not that bothered about dead ending etc if the switch burns out after a couple of years i'll change it or just pop a new pump on, but saying that, the pump you have is used on many an ice cream van-just think how many mr whippies they do in a day with no problems or dead ending or changing pumps

spruce said:

The controller is flashing PS which means the pressure switch is activating, not dead ending as that would flash DE. As its a new pump I believe we would have to assume that the pressure switch is working correctly with the pressure switch set at 100psi. The other point made by @kevinc250 is that of a poor electrical connection between the pump and controller.

Again, because the pump and controller are new we would have to assume that all connections are firm and made properly.

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Got it sorted, dead right right dodgy connection, **** crimp  connecters  they send out, Give it a bit crimping. But will change those if it starts to play up again 

Dragbag said:

Got it sorted, dead right right dodgy connection, **** crimp  connecters  they send out, Give it a bit crimping. But will change those if it starts to play up again 

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Excellent; and thank you for letting us know.

I couldn't help but think how your experience translates into the problems mechanics have in the motor trade when trying to identify a fault. In your case the fault indicated one thing but the solution was something different. Because it was a new setup I assumed the solution was to find a restriction on the water flow side.

Off topic a bit. Our neighbour has a 15 plate 2 cylinder Fiat 500. The engine management light came on and sent the car into limp home mode. She called out her regular mechanic and the code reader informed them that it was a fault with the ignition system. So he order and fitted 2 plugs and a coil pack which cost her £150. The car ran fine for a couple of days and the same thing happened. Again the codes indicated an ignition fault so they replaced the coil packs to no avail. This time the fault code indicated a faulty catalytic convertor.

They suggested her only option was to drive the car into a Fiat garage (not the main agents as they are beyond useless) 10 miles away for further investigation.

The first thing the mechanic/garage owner did was to check the oil. It was low and he added oil. (Her annual service was due in a couple of weeks and she never checks her oil with the dip stick.) He cleared the codes and sent her on her way. No issues since. And now she checks her oil level every week. ?

spruce said:

Excellent; and thank you for letting us know.

I couldn't help but think how your experience translates into the problems mechanics have in the motor trade when trying to identify a fault. In your case the fault indicated one thing but the solution was something different. Because it was a new setup I assumed the solution was to find a restriction on the water flow side.

Off topic a bit. Our neighbour has a 15 plate 2 cylinder Fiat 500. The engine management light came on and sent the car into limp home mode. She called out her regular mechanic and the code reader informed them that it was a fault with the ignition system. So he order and fitted 2 plugs and a coil pack which cost her £150. The car ran fine for a couple of days and the same thing happened. Again the codes indicated an ignition fault so they replaced the coil packs to no avail. This time the fault code indicated a faulty catalytic convertor.

They suggested her only option was to drive the car into a Fiat garage (not the main agents as they are beyond useless) 10 miles away for further investigation.

The first thing the mechanic/garage owner did was to check the oil. It was low and he added oil. (Her annual service was due in a couple of weeks and she never checks her oil with the dip stick.) He cleared the codes and sent her on her way. No issues since. And now she checks her oil level every week. ?

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On another sidetrack, part of my mot failure was the emissions. i took it to this place that deals with that, we saw that loads of black smoke came out at high revs. he just disconnected a little tube from, I think he called it the vacume? Then give it a thrash to clear it. And just leave this tube/ tiny bit of hose unconnected. passed now and seems fine so makes you wonder whats the purpose of that tube if it just makes the vehicle fail emissions test. Its an old transit connect. Amazing these little tricks these fellas know.

ks789 said:

On another sidetrack, part of my mot failure was the emissions. i took it to this place that deals with that, we saw that loads of black smoke came out at high revs. he just disconnected a little tube from, I think he called it the vacume? Then give it a thrash to clear it. And just leave this tube/ tiny bit of hose unconnected. passed now and seems fine so makes you wonder whats the purpose of that tube if it just makes the vehicle fail emissions test. Its an old transit connect. Amazing these little tricks these fellas know.

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It could well be the vacuum pipe to the EGR valve. So you are doing the same thing as blanking the EGR valve.

The EGR valve introduces some of the exhaust gas back into the air intake and its to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions. EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine’s exhaust stream back in to the engine, optimising the incoming flow of oxygen and providing inert (dead) gasses that absorb some of the heat generated by the combustion process.  They don't test for nitrogen oxide emissions but they do test for smoke. A faulty EGR valve will cause emissions failure with the current MOT test. So your MOT tester has chosen to quick fix one problem at the 'expense' of another. So whilst you have acceptable smoke emissions your nitrogeon oxide emissions would be way to high - sky high.

Its also illegal not to have a fully working EGR valve so my advise is to get the problem sorted. Yes, it could well be that it would cost more than the van is worth. Over time a non functioning EGR valve can cause engine damage.

spruce said:

It could well be the vacuum pipe to the EGR valve. So you are doing the same thing as blanking the EGR valve.

The EGR valve introduces some of the exhaust gas back into the air intake and its to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions. EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine’s exhaust stream back in to the engine, optimising the incoming flow of oxygen and providing inert (dead) gasses that absorb some of the heat generated by the combustion process.  They don't test for nitrogen oxide emissions but they do test for smoke. A faulty EGR valve will cause emissions failure with the current MOT test. So your MOT tester has chosen to quick fix one problem at the 'expense' of another. So whilst you have acceptable smoke emissions your nitrogeon oxide emissions would be way to high - sky high.

Its also illegal not to have a fully working EGR valve so my advise is to get the problem sorted. Yes, it could well be that it would cost more than the van is worth. Over time a non functioning EGR valve can cause engine damage.

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yes that name rings a bell. Its a 2004 transit connect and im not too keen on spending a great deal on it. this mot was £588, not too bad as was a lot of welding and a new exhaust. I recently got 4 brand new tyres so reckon im good to go for another year or so.

ks789 said:

yes that name rings a bell. Its a 2004 transit connect and im not too keen on spending a great deal on it. this mot was £588, not too bad as was a lot of welding and a new exhaust. I recently got 4 brand new tyres so reckon im good to go for another year or so.

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Yea, I can understand that.

My nano trolley is playing up , I’m not getting a good flow . It is taking 20 seconds to turn off . But 2 seconds to come on . Ps is showing . The pump is very noisy . Calibrated it on every number . It is calibrated now on 1 . Any higher and the pump stays on even longer . On my van mount the pressure switch is disconnected. Is it advisable to disconnect it on this type of nano pump . Any ideas