Jimroot
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Setting up my 'bracelad' today. Will try the hook and climb method, it's probably another area I've over thought out
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Its.....sixty quids....
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Smurf
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bracelad?
Jimroot
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My nickname for the brace I got smurf, like your ankalad but it's called a brace.
On a side note, I've read 44mm guttervvac poles are better than 51mm as there more suction and easier to get into places, I was thinking before the wider the better to get more pieces but I guess suction would drop over surface, or air, area
On a side note, I've read 44mm guttervvac poles are better than 51mm as there more suction and easier to get into places, I was thinking before the wider the better to get more pieces but I guess suction would drop over surface, or air, area
Smurf
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I've not tried the smaller 44mm gutervac poles myself so can't really comment.
However when having to use ladders on badly blocked roof valley corners etc I do sometimes attach a smaller size length of suction hose with a crevice nozzle that is lighter to take up my ladder set up to so to break up and suck the sludge out especially if the gap is tiny which a lot of properties around my way are due to tile overhang.
Some corners are easier to do that way (what I call combo method) especially clearing the gutter corners to clear blockages under lead flashing than trying to vac it out from the ground which is near impossible to do. Also it's possible to damage guttering/corner joints if too much force is used.
I've also found to bungee the hose to one of the top rungs of the ladder which makes the suction hose more manageable as the weight is taken off the length of hose going up to the roofline so the length I use is a lot lighter.
Whilst I'm up there I will also clear the roof valleys too by pole and progutter tool if they need doing.
Regarding large sods, broken mortar, tiles etc I bag up rather than using a bucket.
However when having to use ladders on badly blocked roof valley corners etc I do sometimes attach a smaller size length of suction hose with a crevice nozzle that is lighter to take up my ladder set up to so to break up and suck the sludge out especially if the gap is tiny which a lot of properties around my way are due to tile overhang.
Some corners are easier to do that way (what I call combo method) especially clearing the gutter corners to clear blockages under lead flashing than trying to vac it out from the ground which is near impossible to do. Also it's possible to damage guttering/corner joints if too much force is used.
I've also found to bungee the hose to one of the top rungs of the ladder which makes the suction hose more manageable as the weight is taken off the length of hose going up to the roofline so the length I use is a lot lighter.
Whilst I'm up there I will also clear the roof valleys too by pole and progutter tool if they need doing.
Regarding large sods, broken mortar, tiles etc I bag up rather than using a bucket.
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Jimroot
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Good tips smurf.
Sounds like it's worth getting a long hose for those types of job.
I've noticed so many vans around with guttering as part of their offerings, I wonder if there will be any pickings left for me.
Sounds like it's worth getting a long hose for those types of job.
I've noticed so many vans around with guttering as part of their offerings, I wonder if there will be any pickings left for me.
Smurf
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I don't worry about competition as there are loads offering gutter clearing around my area too but that doesn't stop me gaining work.
I'm not that cheap either so just goes to show not all ppl go with the cheapest as they want it done properly and more importantly safely too.
I could turn up at a house with just a ladder like so many do and charge £25 for a quickie that most of the ones I've seen have not been done properly. Therefore I much prefer to offer a professional service and charge what I call a reasonable rate for a dangerous job.
I'm not that cheap either so just goes to show not all ppl go with the cheapest as they want it done properly and more importantly safely too.
I could turn up at a house with just a ladder like so many do and charge £25 for a quickie that most of the ones I've seen have not been done properly. Therefore I much prefer to offer a professional service and charge what I call a reasonable rate for a dangerous job.
Jimroot
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Jimroot
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Jimroot
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i think where im trying to erect is too narrow for my trials. I couldn't use the three ladder sections either as the ladder would have scratched or tapped a window on the way up, or if u did it in 'free space' I may have lost control of it
Smurf
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Is that a slate roof? If so best if possible to avoid putting the microlite standoff on slate tiles anyway as most slate tiles are very weak.
If you want to extend the ladder above the roofline and you’re not going to step off onto the roof first stick the microlite so it's fitted on the top rung of the ladder when it's on the ground. Then position the ladder roughly where you want it to be an either extend it a bit more if need be. With the ladder held in the upright position facing the wall extend the top section as high as you can comfortably reach. Then extend the middle section high enough paying attention it clearing the gutters, overhead cables, sat dishes etc rest the ladder gently on the roof preferably right to the back of the second tile in. You now can adjust the ladder properly to get the right angle and check the standoff in the right position and last of all set up the brace legs.
It will take a bit of getting use to but here is some example pic of a similar style property I get quite often as they always seem to get blocked by the window and start overflowing down the wall.
View attachment 3606
That job was done on lethal slippery decking too but the ankalad & microlite set up that way the ladder was rock solid.
Obviously the last pic the bottom of the top section used on the flat roof bit was against the wall
Hope this helps?
View attachment 3603
View attachment 3604
View attachment 3605
If you want to extend the ladder above the roofline and you’re not going to step off onto the roof first stick the microlite so it's fitted on the top rung of the ladder when it's on the ground. Then position the ladder roughly where you want it to be an either extend it a bit more if need be. With the ladder held in the upright position facing the wall extend the top section as high as you can comfortably reach. Then extend the middle section high enough paying attention it clearing the gutters, overhead cables, sat dishes etc rest the ladder gently on the roof preferably right to the back of the second tile in. You now can adjust the ladder properly to get the right angle and check the standoff in the right position and last of all set up the brace legs.
It will take a bit of getting use to but here is some example pic of a similar style property I get quite often as they always seem to get blocked by the window and start overflowing down the wall.
View attachment 3606
That job was done on lethal slippery decking too but the ankalad & microlite set up that way the ladder was rock solid.
Obviously the last pic the bottom of the top section used on the flat roof bit was against the wall
Hope this helps?
View attachment 3603
View attachment 3604
View attachment 3605
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Smurf
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Is that my twin brother on the ladder
Jimroot
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Yes the chain came with it, I think it's about 6ft as it says to extend out to 6ft, so it didn't actually touch the gound as the vertical angle was too acute to allow the brace to function. It only functioned when I brought the ladder down a bit to free standing, then it was good and solid. I don't think with the small wall and the house wall I can get the required ladder angle. I think it would be a good job for the vac, as although I couldn't get my head up to look, I put my hand in and there's an inch of sludge in that gutter.
I've got a blocked drain and a leaking joint too :-( just hope I can fix the bloody thing myself, ha ha ha ha ha ha :-(
Maybe it's this model but I feel it just won't work in these sub 6ft sq sites?
Smurf, thanks for the pics and description. I'm finding It hard around other duties to get out in daylight to experiment, but I couldn't see a way of safely erecting without the risks I mentioned, I need to hit you tube and watch some vids as I can't see how you transitioned from base state to erect without dinging the window or loosing control and swinging it. I can see it needs this length of ladder for this job and this is the lightest feasible ladder, it just currently seems impossible.
I haven't noticed if it's slate, will have a look
I've got a blocked drain and a leaking joint too :-( just hope I can fix the bloody thing myself, ha ha ha ha ha ha :-(
Maybe it's this model but I feel it just won't work in these sub 6ft sq sites?
Smurf, thanks for the pics and description. I'm finding It hard around other duties to get out in daylight to experiment, but I couldn't see a way of safely erecting without the risks I mentioned, I need to hit you tube and watch some vids as I can't see how you transitioned from base state to erect without dinging the window or loosing control and swinging it. I can see it needs this length of ladder for this job and this is the lightest feasible ladder, it just currently seems impossible.
I haven't noticed if it's slate, will have a look
Jimroot
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Ah, maybe that's why mines cheaper. Its one of those days
rshandyman
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Looks like ankalad
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Jimroot
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Jimroot
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Shouldn't have tried to save money and just bought the one you guys use, it may have limited use now.
Jimroot
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Do you think the 13kg 6.1 m would do for gutters? I feel it would be too short. The next one up has hardly any weight saving
http://www.laddersalesdirect.co.uk/titan-2-section-push-up-extension-ladder.html#grouped
http://www.laddersalesdirect.co.uk/titan-2-section-push-up-extension-ladder.html#grouped
It will be ok
If i put the cross brace on it would only go to 1 width
The legs have enough adjustment on to alter the angle
It just needs getting used to
I usually set the ladder roughly where i need it then put the legs out
Just needs fine tuning then
They say if the ladder is at the right angle then if you stand upright with toes touching the feet you should just be able to touch the ladder
Doesn't need lots of room set up as just pull the legs out once set
If i put the cross brace on it would only go to 1 width
The legs have enough adjustment on to alter the angle
It just needs getting used to
I usually set the ladder roughly where i need it then put the legs out
Just needs fine tuning then
They say if the ladder is at the right angle then if you stand upright with toes touching the feet you should just be able to touch the ladder
Doesn't need lots of room set up as just pull the legs out once set
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