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Liquidator 2.0

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When I first started using the I found that some window seals were harder to use it on than others, but now I've got a couple of months under my belt, I don't come across any windows I can't use it on.

The only tip I can offer is, what worked for me was

Slow down considerably, focus on being more precise round the edges.

And

Use paper clip inserts in the end clips to tighten the rubber up.

And the speed will come back in good time. Oh and you're cloths will stay almost dry lol

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Watch Bob Hatt (polzn bladz) on you tube as he has every problem covered in his vids as he helped design them

Use plenty of soap

Use paperclip inserts (see vid for details)

Slow down to speed up as Bob says as you take it slower but detail nothing so being quicker by not messing about

 
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I have been using the 18 inch for months, great on doors no detailing. Bought the 22 inch and it wash ****. Left a smear of soap not a line as I angled up to the left corner of the door, then when you go to the top of the door and come down the right side left around an inch of untouched soap along the right side, took it back to where I bought from, showed them and it was perfect. I had tried different angles and it was the same don't know why

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I have been using the 18 inch for months, great on doors no detailing. Bought the 22 inch and it wash ****. Left a smear of soap not a line as I angled up to the left corner of the door, then when you go to the top of the door and come down the right side left around an inch of untouched soap along the right side, took it back to where I bought from, showed them and it was perfect. I had tried different angles and it was the same don't know why
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I think I may have an answer for you mate, you've maybe already heard or read this somewhere.

But apparently, the end clips are designed with the exact same angles regardless of the length of the channel, so the longer the channel the less effective the standard clips are due to weight distribution across the channel.

Now if you warm you end clips up in hot/boiled water and bend them forward little increments at a time and testing till you get the desired effect.

Hope this helps

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I think I may have an answer for you mate, you've maybe already heard or read this somewhere.
But apparently, the end clips are designed with the exact same angles regardless of the length of the channel, so the longer the channel the less effective the standard clips are due to weight distribution across the channel.

Now if you warm you end clips up in hot/boiled water and bend them forward little increments at a time and testing till you get the desired effect.

Hope this helps

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They have been designed to work best as they are whatever size channel.. don't go altering them

When i use a 22 sometimes i need to use my other hand on the end of the channel just to put a little extra pressure on it as i go up into the first corner as it will tend to ride up the seal a touch otherwise..just a minor problem with big channels but unavoidable unless you push the squeegee so hard you ruin it

You can't have everything and that is a small price to pay for no detailing

 
I used mine last week for 6 hours on a school. By the end of the day I had got used to it. Does need some practice and you need to figure out which settings to use.

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Invariably I find when this happens to me that I've got 'lazy'. On a short or long pole I have no issues as long as I have the correct angle dialled in. The blade needs to be at the optimum angle to the glass at all times so any change in forearm, wrist, hand alignment will effect that angle, and of course is even more important the longer the blade. I personally can use up to 14" with precision on the Excelerator but 16, 18 and 22, for me, have to be on a fixed handle.

 
My favourite on excelerator set to swivel is still 10" with fliq on pole or without in hand

I also use a 14" on swivel but all my other channels are on fixed handles..mostly combinator handles as they are so light

 
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