Questions to the experts

[LiamChecks]

Hi all, I launched my exterior cleaning business a few months ago and have had 4 jobs booked in. So far so good with results. (Mostly render cleaning)

This is a couple quick questions to the experts such as PJJ.

1. If you were to invest in any softwash kit to speed things up on render cleans and to avoid having to use a backpack - what would it be? Worried the backpack will just pack in one day.

2. If I am softwashing a front render where the garden below is very nice, and covered in well looked after grass which will end up being the run off - do you suggest rincing down the render at the end on to this grass and then absolutely soaking the grass or lying a tarp over the grass?

3. What other chemical is a must for softwashing render? I currently just use a hypo mix and generally around 2.5% mix for most render. Will soon get some Biocide to add more protection but do you often find some stains need other chemicals? Thinking about keeping Rust cleaner in my van just in-case and have noticed a lot of black staining running down from led flashing on some jobs booked in, will hypo be enough here?

Lastly, 4. When rincing off the hypo at the end, I am currently using a garden hose which often can't reach the very top of a house, is there anything you use that isn't a garden hose that is extendable like a WFP and is much faster than my current method? Sometimes I just connect the WFP to the hose itself.

Thanks a lot guys. Looking to scale with decent equipment very soon and appreciate your help!

 

[Pjj]

Lol I don view myself as an expert , ime still learning ??? but hopefully the points below might help
1.we use pure freedom nano trollys they aren’t chemical rated pumps but wash them out after and so far the pumps have lasted about 3 years no problems.they will apply a lot more product than a Gardiner’s back pack so are quicker and with the right nozzle drift is reduced Have a look on Rutland pumps web site at the roll tech softwashing pumps they are very good but will apply a lot more product but are very good for rinsing , if you are doing large commercial then look at the P40 not cheap though .


2. Always wet down any plants before during and after mix application, if particularly delicate cover with plastic sheets , always dilute run off with loads of water , the worst we have ever done was kill 4 inches of grass that went up to the wall as we couldn’t prevent run off I explained thus before hand ti the customer and they were fine within a few weeks it had grown back .


3. I know some on here won’t agree with this but from our extensive testing with biocides at best they are very slow to work months before the building starts to look anything like clean , it doesn’t offer any residue prevention of re growth , and will also kill plants etc .
Always remove other stains before applying hypo as it will “ set” the stains if you don’t . Stuff like lead , rust etc treat first hypo w I’ll make lead staining look much worse , I haven’t used anything that I would recommend ti remove lead stains it’s not something that we come accross that much , but rust again sometimes it comes out 100% others it doesn’t we use Bonnymans rust remover and find it works well but always must the area with water before applying it as it can bleach the substrate if you don’t . the only chemicals we use are , sodium hypochlorite , biocide , Virosol , for building cleaning , just remember that hypo is only good for growing things it won’t remove carbonatiouse contamination .
4. Rinsing we use a pumped supply or the garden hose with a small nozzle to increase tge range of the jet ,or connect your WFP to the garden hose and use that to reach higher with it .
Any questions just ask , @kevinc250 , and @Dave B are far more knowledgeable than me with chemistry.

 

[scottish cleaning service]

I think I would go on a course before I began cleaning. You need the basics but if you try and wing it then expect unexpected events like pets, postmen and vegetation to come into contact like what happened to me.

 

[LiamChecks]

Lol I don view myself as an expert , ime still learning ??? but hopefully the points below might help
1.we use pure freedom nano trollys they aren’t chemical rated pumps but wash them out after and so far the pumps have lasted about 3 years no problems.they will apply a lot more product than a Gardiner’s back pack so are quicker and with the right nozzle drift is reduced Have a look on Rutland pumps web site at the roll tech softwashing pumps they are very good but will apply a lot more product but are very good for rinsing , if you are doing large commercial then look at the P40 not cheap though .


2. Always wet down any plants before during and after mix application, if particularly delicate cover with plastic sheets , always dilute run off with loads of water , the worst we have ever done was kill 4 inches of grass that went up to the wall as we couldn’t prevent run off I explained thus before hand ti the customer and they were fine within a few weeks it had grown back .


3. I know some on here won’t agree with this but from our extensive testing with biocides at best they are very slow to work months before the building starts to look anything like clean , it doesn’t offer any residue prevention of re growth , and will also kill plants etc .
Always remove other stains before applying hypo as it will “ set” the stains if you don’t . Stuff like lead , rust etc treat first hypo w I’ll make lead staining look much worse , I haven’t used anything that I would recommend ti remove lead stains it’s not something that we come accross that much , but rust again sometimes it comes out 100% others it doesn’t we use Bonnymans rust remover and find it works well but always must the area with water before applying it as it can bleach the substrate if you don’t . the only chemicals we use are , sodium hypochlorite , biocide , Virosol , for building cleaning , just remember that hypo is only good for growing things it won’t remove carbonatiouse contamination .
4. Rinsing we use a pumped supply or the garden hose with a small nozzle to increase tge range of the jet ,or connect your WFP to the garden hose and use that to reach higher with it .
Any questions just ask , @kevinc250 , and @Dave B are far more knowledgeable than me with chemistry.

Fantastic advice Thanks alot.

With the lead staining, I mean not the lead flashing itself but running down the wall from it - will hypo still not remove this black staining? The reason I ask is that window sills on the front of a property I am working on this weekend have black run down but it seems so does the lead flashing above the windows.

Lastly, on the carbonatiouse contamination - this looks very similar to black algae - what will remove the carbon if hypo doesn't?

Thanks matey, you've been very helpful.

 

[Pjj]

Lead staining is the chemicals coming out of the lead usually it’s cheap quality lead good stuff doesn’t tend to do it , hypo will make the stain look worse , not sure what’s best to use to remove it as it’s rare that we get it .
Again we don’t get much carbonatiouse contamination down here so again not sure what’s best to use @kevinc250 and @Dave B are better to give advice on there things rather than me

 

[Dave B]

Use oxalic acid on lead staining
As for carbon it will probably need pressure washing which can damage the surface or preferably use a doff or similar

 

[Pjj]

Use oxalic acid on lead staining
As for carbon it will probably need pressure washing which can damage the surface or preferably use a doff or similar

I tried pressure washing some granite pillars that were badly covers in carbonatious stuff and it didn’t improve it at all was very disappointed gave up in the end tried everything I could think of I think sand blasting was the only thing that would remove it even the doff wouldn’t improve it

 

[Dave B]

I’ve not really tried to be honest as I softwash more than pressure wash

 

[LiamChecks]

Use oxalic acid on lead staining
As for carbon it will probably need pressure washing which can damage the surface or preferably use a doff or similar

Thanks Dave, can you link what you use and the ratio's etc? I'm keen to get rid of some rundown from lead flashing this weekend for a customer but concerned I am not going to be able too based on this convo!

 

[K in Kent]

Firstly, Paul is being too modest and you're quite right - he is 1 of our resident experts and a font of knowledge


I've never tried either of them but Benz do a couple of rust treatment products now and this article explains them better and might be of help to you.
Also I'm sure if you sent them some photos and asked their opinion they'd be happy to advise you. I contacted them myself some years back for advice and they were excellent - knowledgeable and helpful - bit like @Pjj actually