Streamline flow controller

[Jonnyavfc]

Hi all !! My flow controller has been working fine up till today but now it doesn't seem to want to change flow rate on the arrow buttons and when I turn the flow off with the univale instead of it d/e it turns itself off ? Do you reckon the controller has had its day ? Probably had it about 3 years now

 

[AW Services]

Hi all !! My flow controller has been working fine up till today but now it doesn't seem to want to change flow rate on the arrow buttons and when I turn the flow off with the univale instead of it d/e it turns itself off ? Do you reckon the controller has had its day ? Probably had it about 3 years now

you should get a far greater service life from it. They are extremely well made and British built to high standards.

The best and trusted authority to help you is @Ian Sheppard

 

[ched999uk]

Double check all electrical connections and fuses as there could be a corroded joint.
As Austin (@AW Services ) suggested Ian an Spring is the man. I believe they offer a repair service of the control boards, I'm assuming it's a Spring controller (my Streamline system has Spring controllers).
If you email Spring I'm sure they will tell you the options.

 

[Cleanco]

Maybe a dodgy connection. My controller once started turning itself off randomly and turned out it was a weak connection between the controller and the battery. Best bet is to check all your connections before writing it off as you should be getting a lot more than three years out of it as AW said.

 

[Jonnyavfc]

Maybe a dodgy connection. My controller once started turning itself off randomly and turned out it was a weak connection between the controller and the battery. Best bet is to check all your connections before writing it off as you should be getting a lot more than three years out of it as AW said.

Looked at all the connections and can't see anything untoward !! Strange as was fine 1st thing then turned water off with univalve and nothing when I turned it back on and controller had gone off in van. When I turned it back on it was flashing between flow cal and batt all the battery voltage is fine running from split charge

 

[AW Services]

Looked at all the connections and can't see anything untoward !! Strange as was fine 1st thing then turned water off with univalve and nothing when I turned it back on and controller had gone off in van. When I turned it back on it was flashing between flow cal and batt all the battery voltage is fine running from split charge

Is it a streamline badged V11 or V16?

 

[ched999uk]

When I turned it back on it was flashing between flow cal and batt all the battery voltage is fine running from split charge

I believe that the spring controllers have a low voltage cut off. If your battery is failing it can show an ok voltage (above 12v) but when under load it can dip quite low.
A visual inspection of the connections might not show up something like a corroded fuse holder.
If you are just using a split charge relay then unless you are doing lots of miles you need to bench charge (mains charger) at least every other day if not every day.

 

[Jonnyavfc]

Is it a streamline badged V11 or V16?

Just the normal v11 one. One thing I did notice on the leisure battery in back of van was all connections looked fine no corrosion on terminals but there was just a bit of black wire from one terminal like just an inch of it ? I can't seem to find the rest of it anywhere or if it goes anywhere unless it should go to the vehicles earth ? Seems strange as the battery is in a proper plastic battery box and I'm the lid is never taken off apart from earlier it's not been touched since having it all fitted 3 years ago

 

[AW Services]

Just the normal v11 one. One thing I did notice on the leisure battery in back of van was all connections looked fine no corrosion on terminals but there was just a bit of black wire from one terminal like just an inch of it ? I can't seem to find the rest of it anywhere or if it goes anywhere unless it should go to the vehicles earth ? Seems strange as the battery is in a proper plastic battery box and I'm the lid is never taken off apart from earlier it's not been touched since having it all fitted 3 years ago

By your detailed breakdown you've not disconnected it or had any previous issues with your controller or battery?

The V11 is a well made controller by Spring Europe Ltd but unlike the newer releases V16 it doesn't have reverse polarity protection so any mishaps with terminals or changes to the battery and wiring will deem the controller faulty and will not switch on.

I've seen and repaired a few window cleaning vans electronics as most do not use fuse boxes or enclosures and all terminals are all tied directly to the battery

The piece of black wire you've mentioned could be the route cause to your system fault

 

[spruce]

If you run the engine, does you controller work as it should? If it does, then suspect the battery.

Btw, split charge relays and b2b chargers aren't the solution to inboard battery charging for the best majority of us. You need to 'bench charge' your leisure battery at least every couple of days.

A local plumber has the same van I do. He had to put a battery charger on his van starter battery every so often as he doesn't do the mileage around town to replenish the charge of his battery.

Even I have to do that as well will my starter battery and I do more miles than he does.

 

[AW Services]

If you run the engine, does you controller work as it should? If it does, then suspect the battery.

Btw, split charge relays and b2b chargers aren't the solution to inboard battery charging for the best majority of us. You need to 'bench charge' your leisure battery at least every couple of days.

A local plumber has the same van I do. He had to put a battery charger on his van starter battery every so often as he doesn't do the mileage around town to replenish the charge of his battery.

Even I have to do that as well will my starter battery and I do more miles than he does.

I agree with bench charging. Regardless of how much on-board technology and redundancy systems my van has nothing beats plugging my 15amp charger in overnight

Short local commute journeys kill batteries

 

[Jonnyavfc]

By your detailed breakdown you've not disconnected it or had any previous issues with your controller or battery?

The V11 is a well made controller by Spring Europe Ltd but unlike the newer releases V16 it doesn't have reverse polarity protection so any mishaps with terminals or changes to the battery and wiring will deem the controller faulty and will not switch on.

I've seen and repaired a few window cleaning vans electronics as most do not use fuse boxes or enclosures and all terminals are all tied directly to the battery

The piece of black wire you've mentioned could be the route cause to your system fault

Would you know if the black wire should run to the vehicle as an earth from the battery as I can't trace it to anywhere else and can't see any other black wire where it may have came of from ? I've looked at a wiring diagram and does look like a wire should go to vehicle earth ?

 

[AW Services]

Would you know if the black wire should run to the vehicle as an earth from the battery as I can't trace it to anywhere else and can't see any other black wire where it may have came of from ? I've looked at a wiring diagram and does look like a wire should go to vehicle earth ?

Reference the black wire:
Am I correct in thinking you have a split charge system installed?

The only black wire that it could possibly be is a negative earth wire tieing the battery negative to the vehicles chassis However, that wire / cable shouldn't in theory be any smaller than 16mm² (the thickness of a sharpie pen) although you have a suspect wire that shouldn't affect your controller as that should be connected to your battery positive via an inline fuse and negative direct to the battery and that wire alone from experience should only cause an issue with spilt charging

A leisure battery shouldn't need to be tied to the vehicle chassis as spilt charging is better direct to battery

Just to clarify, you do have an intact red and black wires from your battery directly to your controller? And you not burnt out and missing the negative size


Austin

 

[AW Services]

Reference the black wire:
Am I correct in thinking you have a split charge system installed?

The only black wire that it could possibly be is a negative earth wire tieing the battery negative to the vehicles chassis However, that wire / cable shouldn't in theory be any smaller than 16mm² (the thickness of a sharpie pen) although you have a suspect wire that shouldn't affect your controller as that should be connected to your battery positive via an inline fuse and negative direct to the battery and that wire alone from experience should only cause an issue with spilt charging

A leisure battery shouldn't need to be tied to the vehicle chassis as spilt charging is better direct to battery


Austin

Here how any controller should be wired
:Credit Spring Europe Ltd

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Good morning Jonny.

Many thanks gents for you advice and i would agree that the first step is to check wiring and connectors particularly as the system has been in place for 3 years, Connectors can pull apart form vibration over time. Also check the wiring for any visible damage to the PVC outer. I agree with checking the battery volts are 12V + with a volt meter again at 3 years its has done sterling service.

Also remember to check fuses and fuse holders between the battery and controller over tine the blade fuses can corrode

Once the above are eliminated we are left with the possibility of a short to the controller power circuit as its a V11 it is unfortunately out of warranty at 3 = years old and replacing it with a V16 would be a suggestion. But before you go down that route check wiring, connections, fuses and battery 1st

Cheers

 

[Jonnyavfc]

Reference the black wire:
Am I correct in thinking you have a split charge system installed?

The only black wire that it could possibly be is a negative earth wire tieing the battery negative to the vehicles chassis However, that wire / cable shouldn't in theory be any smaller than 16mm² (the thickness of a sharpie pen) although you have a suspect wire that shouldn't affect your controller as that should be connected to your battery positive via an inline fuse and negative direct to the battery and that wire alone from experience should only cause an issue with spilt charging

A leisure battery shouldn't need to be tied to the vehicle chassis as spilt charging is better direct to battery

Just to clarify, you do have an intact red and black wires from your battery directly to your controller? And you not burnt out and missing the negative size


Austin

 

[Jonnyavfc]

The black wire that's is attached to nothing is on the pics I've attached its connected to the positive terminal but no trace of where it goes ? Can't even see where it's broke from as there's no other wires near it

 

[AW Services]

The black wire that's is attached to nothing is on the pics I've attached its connected to the positive terminal but no trace of where it goes ? Can't even see where it's broke from as there's no other wires near it

I don't wish to cause offence but I'd recommend giving the wiring a good tidy up and possibly treat the battery to some new clamps

 

[Jonnyavfc]

I don't wish to cause offence but I'd recommend giving the wiring a good tidy up and possibly treat the battery to some new clamps

No offence taken buddy I'm clueless on these sort of things but I'll like you say

 

[AW Services]

No offence taken buddy I'm clueless on these sort of things but I'll like you say

The clamps look don't give me much confidence that your connections are of the best quality for your system overall

You can get clamps easily at halfords. Do check those crimp ring terminals as well.

Important note: because your streamline controller is a V11 do not put the positive on the negative terminals and vice versa as its not polarity protected and it will let out the magic smoke

 

[Jonnyavfc]

The clamps look don't give me much confidence that your connections are of the best quality for your system overall

You can get clamps easily at halfords. Do check those crimp ring terminals as well.

Important note: because your streamline controller is a V11 do not put the positive on the negative terminals and vice versa as its not polarity protected and it will let out the magic smoke

I'll get some new ones I think and re check everything the weekend. I'm still bemused as to what and where that single black wire is though ! Thanks for all your input I appreciate it