4040 RO/Booster Pump Issues

[Daniel Mc]

Evening all! I bought a ready made 4040 RO system with booster pump last year to replace my old Brodex Portapower Trolley.  All been fine around 200l per hour pure.  Around a month or so ago I noticed that the booster pump would switch off for around 30 sec every few minutes - couldn’t identify why.  This has now increased in frequency to 30 sec on then 30 sec off.  There are no leaks in the system that I can find,  no issue with power and the prefilters were changed last week incase fouling was causing the issue.  I tried running the pump last weekend for 1hr with the waste fully open as a test and it ran no prob - as soon as I adjusted the gate valve to allow for 60/40 split the pump switched off and is back to cycling again.  I’m absolutely stuck for ideas and unfortunately not getting much help from other avenues - so thought I’d try your collective experience.

 

[spruce]

Evening all! I bought a ready made 4040 RO system with booster pump last year to replace my old Brodex Portapower Trolley.  All been fine around 200l per hour pure.  Around a month or so ago I noticed that the booster pump would switch off for around 30 sec every few minutes - couldn’t identify why.  This has now increased in frequency to 30 sec on then 30 sec off.  There are no leaks in the system that I can find,  no issue with power and the prefilters were changed last week incase fouling was causing the issue.  I tried running the pump last weekend for 1hr with the waste fully open as a test and it ran no prob - as soon as I adjusted the gate valve to allow for 60/40 split the pump switched off and is back to cycling again.  I’m absolutely stuck for ideas and unfortunately not getting much help from other avenues - so thought I’d try your collective experience.

Please can you put some photos of your booster pump on the thread so we can see it.

I've have never taken one apart, but would imagine that they must have some sort of over heat or thermal overload/cut-out protection. 

For example, a Clarke CBM240E has thermal cut-out protection, although I can't find it as a part.

Problem; pump does not run.

Cause; thermal protection has been activated.

Solution; If the motor has over-heated, wait for it to cool down before trying again.

If the issue starts as soon as the pump is switched on, I wouldn't have thought it would be a heat issue. If the motor isn't hot when the fault occurs then I would focus on the thermal cutout protection as a probable cause.

You still can't rule out a loose connection somewhere.

Intermittent faults are usually caused by heat, vibration or both.

@Apw1210maybe able to advise.

 

[Daniel Mc]

Here is a photo.  The reason I’m thinking that it isn’t an issue with the pump as such is that when all the water is going to waste it’s fine (although not on as much load as it’s only pushing through the prefilters)

 

[AW Services]

Please can you put some photos of your booster pump on the thread so we can see it.

I've have never taken one apart, but would imagine that they must have some sort of over heat or thermal overload/cut-out protection. 

For example, a Clarke CBM240E has thermal cut-out protection, although I can't find it as a part.

Problem; pump does not run.

Cause; thermal protection has been activated.

Solution; If the motor has over-heated, wait for it to cool down before trying again.

If the issue starts as soon as the pump is switched on, I wouldn't have thought it would be a heat issue. If the motor isn't hot when the fault occurs then I would focus on the thermal cutout protection as a probable cause.

You still can't rule out a loose connection somewhere.

Intermittent faults are usually caused by heat, vibration or both.

@Apw1210maybe able to advise.

Most pumps are pretty basic, the Stainless steel Clarke I use has a power switch, capacitor and thermal cutout and can run dry continuously without issues 

Does it have an additional flow switch which is a hall affect sensor or electromagnetic 

 

[AW Services]

Here is a photo.  The reason I’m thinking that it isn’t an issue with the pump as such is that when all the water is going to waste it’s fine (although not on as much load as it’s only pushing through the prefilters)

View attachment 26384

Any humming sound from the pump or click when power is added to it? 

 

[Daniel Mc]

Hi!

Ill be running tomorrow for work Monday so will have a listen out for a click - off the top of my head it clicks when it switches on and off.  The light stays on when the pump stops so thinking that it’s some kind of pump protection related to pressure as the heat isn’t a problem.  It’s just odd that this is only happening when water is going through the RO when producing pure.  When the pump is on and all going to waste there is no issue

 

[AW Services]

Hi!

Ill be running tomorrow for work Monday so will have a listen out for a click - off the top of my head it clicks when it switches on and off.  The light stays on when the pump stops so thinking that it’s some kind of pump protection related to pressure as the heat isn’t a problem.  It’s just odd that this is only happening when water is going through the RO when producing pure.  When the pump is on and all going to waste there is no issue

Heat is generated by the motor frame and stator not water temperature.

When a motor runs under demand the steel, Iron and copper parts heat up. The small rear shaft fan isn't able to lower the temperature and the motor cuts out due to the bi metal thermal cut out. 

You either have a faulty thermal cut out or flow switch. Also the mains cable to the controller and pump may be worn 

 

[Daniel Mc]

Thanks for your help.  Will have a look- I do have a friend with the same setup so may try swapping in his pump and see if it makes a difference - at least that will isolate the issue. 

 

[doug atkinson]

I think you have sent us a few emails and I’ve replied back.

It probably could be that your membrane is blocked.

Would be good to try your friends pump and if that does the same then you know your membrane is blocked.

 

[Baldmonkey]

I don't know if they have carbon brushes on this type of motor, if they do check them, other than that remove the hose/connector from the membrane as near to the pump as you can and see if the flow is good, if the flow is good and it doesn't cut out I'd check further down the line. 

Sometimes the motor windings will go on motors and basically its more cost effective to replace the motor than the windings. 

Process of elimination I'm afraid

 

[Daniel Mc]

I think you have sent us a few emails and I’ve replied back.

It probably could be that your membrane is blocked.

Would be good to try your friends pump and if that does the same then you know your membrane is blocked.

Hi Doug,

This is what I was wondering - though it’s getting the water down from 370 to 3… haven’t received an email though?!

 

[doug atkinson]

Hi Doug,

This is what I was wondering - though it’s getting the water down from 370 to 3… haven’t received an email though?!

3 after  RO or after DI!

 

[Daniel Mc]

3 after  RO or after DI!

3 after RO

Ran the water today -same issue.  Was fine for first 10min then 30sec on 30sec off.  Will try friends booster pump later in the week.