Booster/RO issue

[Daniel Mc]

Hi all,

Sorry - me again.

I’ve previously written in this topic - tried the fixes that were suggested - no joy. Been so busy I’ve just put up with the problem with my system - but it’s annoying me that I can’t get to the bottom of it.

So here goes.

I have a boosted 4040 system, 1 20in sediment prefilter and 1 20in fiberdyne prefilter. My membrane is 1 year old (this problem has been occurring since Dec though!)
I always rinse start and end and periodically through water production. My base tap pressure is 45-50psi
Boosted my water production was consistently around 200lph and I use around 2000l per week.
My RO is bringing water tds down from 370-380 down to 3.
The problem I’m having is that the booster pump cycles on and off after start up and continues at this 30sec on and off throughout production. This has reduced water production in half.

I’ve checked and redone every connections - reseated the membrane, all to no avail.

When running purely to waste with the booster on (just to test) the pump won’t switch off. Within a few seconds of pushing it through RO it cycling on and off.

I’ve also noticed that when I isolate the pure water feed, it surges and drops,
I’m struggling to see that it’s an issue with the pump as it’s fine when all going to waste, I’m struggling to see a problem with the membrane as it’s bringing tds down to 3 from 380 (99%)

I’ve also rechanged prefilters just to be safe.
I’m honestly baffled!

Over to you dear gurus!

 

[ched999uk]

Does your pump have some sort of pressure switch built in? Maybe a picture of the pump might help?
Seems like when the pump has to work hard (pushing water through the RO) it struggles and shuts it's self down. So maybe there is a pressure switch, thermal cut out etc that's causing the pulsating.
Do you have the pump before or after the pre filters?

 

[Daniel Mc]

Does your pump have some sort of pressure switch built in? Maybe a picture of the pump might help?
Seems like when the pump has to work hard (pushing water through the RO) it struggles and shuts it's self down. So maybe there is a pressure switch, thermal cut out etc that's causing the pulsating.
Do you have the pump before or after the pre filters?

Not sure Re pressure switch - I would assume yes. Booster is before prefilters.

 

[ched999uk]

The pump look same as mine. (mine says Artikel 50757 Jet1100s-1). This appears to be the manufacturer: Stainless Steel portable Electric Garden Pump Waterworks 1100W 46
The manual does suggest there is a thermal cut off inside the switch box: https://service.wiltec.de/manuals/50/50753/EN/50753-doc-en.pdf

Reading bottom of page 6 'Thermo switch switches off pump' Cause: Engine overloaded – excessive friction due to foreign particles. Solution: Dismantle and clean pump, prevent sucking-in of foreign particles (filter).

I have taken the stainless pump body off to rotate it a little to fit in my box. It's about 8 allen key bolts then it slides off. Might be worth taking it off to see if there is any obstructions. Alternatively it might be worth contacting the manufacturers to see if they sell a replacement thermo switch.

 

[Daniel Mc]

The pump look same as mine. (mine says Artikel 50757 Jet1100s-1). This appears to be the manufacturer: Stainless Steel portable Electric Garden Pump Waterworks 1100W 46
The manual does suggest there is a thermal cut off inside the switch box: https://service.wiltec.de/manuals/50/50753/EN/50753-doc-en.pdf

Reading bottom of page 6 'Thermo switch switches off pump' Cause: Engine overloaded – excessive friction due to foreign particles. Solution: Dismantle and clean pump, prevent sucking-in of foreign particles (filter).

I have taken the stainless pump body off to rotate it a little to fit in my box. It's about 8 allen key bolts then it slides off. Might be worth taking it off to see if there is any obstructions. Alternatively it might be worth contacting the manufacturers to see if they sell a replacement thermo switch.

Thanks - Will try that. ?

 

[Pjj]

Hi all,

Sorry - me again.

I’ve previously written in this topic - tried the fixes that were suggested - no joy. Been so busy I’ve just put up with the problem with my system - but it’s annoying me that I can’t get to the bottom of it.

So here goes.

I have a boosted 4040 system, 1 20in sediment prefilter and 1 20in fiberdyne prefilter. My membrane is 1 year old (this problem has been occurring since Dec though!)
I always rinse start and end and periodically through water production. My base tap pressure is 45-50psi
Boosted my water production was consistently around 200lph and I use around 2000l per week.
My RO is bringing water tds down from 370-380 down to 3.
The problem I’m having is that the booster pump cycles on and off after start up and continues at this 30sec on and off throughout production. This has reduced water production in half.

I’ve checked and redone every connections - reseated the membrane, all to no avail.

When running purely to waste with the booster on (just to test) the pump won’t switch off. Within a few seconds of pushing it through RO it cycling on and off.

I’ve also noticed that when I isolate the pure water feed, it surges and drops,
I’m struggling to see that it’s an issue with the pump as it’s fine when all going to waste, I’m struggling to see a problem with the membrane as it’s bringing tds down to 3 from 380 (99%)

I’ve also rechanged prefilters just to be safe.
I’m honestly baffled!

Over to you dear gurus!

When the waist is open there is no resistance so the pump will keep pumping , once you start to close the waist to produce pure Ime guessing the pump is getting up to maximum pressure and then cutting out until the water has gone through the ro filter then the pressure drops and the pump starts again . Do you have a booster pump that looks like a WFP pump ?? Or is it a specialist booster pump like the one in the picture below ? My pump runs all the time until the tanks full .

 

[Pjj]

The pump look same as mine. (mine says Artikel 50757 Jet1100s-1). This appears to be the manufacturer: Stainless Steel portable Electric Garden Pump Waterworks 1100W 46
The manual does suggest there is a thermal cut off inside the switch box: https://service.wiltec.de/manuals/50/50753/EN/50753-doc-en.pdf

Reading bottom of page 6 'Thermo switch switches off pump' Cause: Engine overloaded – excessive friction due to foreign particles. Solution: Dismantle and clean pump, prevent sucking-in of foreign particles (filter).

I have taken the stainless pump body off to rotate it a little to fit in my box. It's about 8 allen key bolts then it slides off. Might be worth taking it off to see if there is any obstructions. Alternatively it might be worth contacting the manufacturers to see if they sell a replacement thermo switch.

Usually the booster pump is after the pre filters and straight into the ros

 

[spruce]

The pump look same as mine. (mine says Artikel 50757 Jet1100s-1). This appears to be the manufacturer: Stainless Steel portable Electric Garden Pump Waterworks 1100W 46
The manual does suggest there is a thermal cut off inside the switch box: https://service.wiltec.de/manuals/50/50753/EN/50753-doc-en.pdf

Reading bottom of page 6 'Thermo switch switches off pump' Cause: Engine overloaded – excessive friction due to foreign particles. Solution: Dismantle and clean pump, prevent sucking-in of foreign particles (filter).

I have taken the stainless pump body off to rotate it a little to fit in my box. It's about 8 allen key bolts then it slides off. Might be worth taking it off to see if there is any obstructions. Alternatively it might be worth contacting the manufacturers to see if they sell a replacement thermo switch.

I think this is the best solution @Daniel Mc . I had dealings with the owner of Wiltec in Germany many years ago. Nice German guy who speaks very good English and is extremely helpful and knowledgeable. I can't for the love of me remember his name, I'm afraid.

A thermal cutout is usually activated after the pump has been in operation for some time, as it relies on heat to activate it. That heat could be coming from a short somewhere (faulty stator winding coil) but this doesn't make sense. It could also be a faulty thermal cutout - more likely.

I had a feeling that Jet pumps are made in Italy.

 

[Daniel Mc]

When the waist is open there is no resistance so the pump will keep pumping , once you start to close the waist to produce pure Ime guessing the pump is getting up to maximum pressure and then cutting out until the water has gone through the ro filter then the pressure drops and the pump starts again . Do you have a booster pump that looks like a WFP pump ?? Or is it a specialist booster pump like the one in the picture below ? My pump runs all the time until the tanks full .

It’s a specialist booster pump - for 9 months it ran absolutely fine - just the last 3 months been a problem.

 

[Daniel Mc]

I think this is the best solution @Daniel Mc . I had dealings with the owner of Wiltec in Germany many years ago. Nice German guy who speaks very good English and is extremely helpful and knowledgeable. I can't for the love of me remember his name, I'm afraid.

A thermal cutout is usually activated after the pump has been in operation for some time, as it relies on heat to activate it. That heat could be coming from a short somewhere (faulty stator winding coil) but this doesn't make sense. It could also be a faulty thermal cutout - more likely.

I had a feeling that Jet pumps are made in Italy.

Thanks - this is looking like the next thing to try. Is this a warranty thing or is it a wear and tear part?

 

[spruce]

Thanks - this is looking like the next thing to try. Is this a warranty thing or is it a wear and tear part?

I have no idea. We don't even know what the problem is. It needs to be investigated by someone who can identify the fault and make a decision based on that fault analysis.

There is no item made that is made that will last forever that won't develop a fault at sometime in its life. The company that has made an indestructible item is no longer in business. Components are made in different factories and brought together to be assembled somewhere else.

At Bosch, we offered a 6 month guarantee on Power Tools against faulty components and/or workmanship. Faults happen. That's why all suppliers/manufacturers offer a warranty. (We knew how to tell if a failed power tool was due to a genuine fault or due to operator abuse. The warranty on an abused power tool was null and void.)

Now there is a chance that a fault could become a common fault and be known by the manufacturer and/or supplier. The lady next door owns a newish Fiat 500. The engine management light came on and the car went into 'limp' mode. The mechanic she uses to service the car put it on a code reader, and the fault code identified faulty ignition coil packs. The fault came back a few miles later with the same code, so the mechanic replaced the coil packs, but the same thing happened. He then replaced the spark plugs. £200 later, the same thing. The code then pointed to a failed catalytic convertor.

She asked me what I thought. I suggested she book the car in at an independent Fiat authorized workshop. It has a good name. (The Fiat agents are absolutely useless in the Middlesbrough area.) She drove some 15 miles at 20 miles an hour to this workshop. The Fiat specialist came out to the car with a couple of litres of oil, lifted the hood (bonnet) checked the oil level, topped it up and cleared the codes. Took less than 10 minutes. She drove home and has had no issues since. That specialist knew exactly what the problem was before he even saw the car.

The problem with your pump could be a known issue, so you need to report back to where you bought the pump from.