I recently bought a new 4 stage ro unit, noticed a couple days ago that the ppm was coming in at 18 (was 9 when I first bought it), changed the resin and bought a booster pump and am now getting 10 ppm. Without the Di resin I’m getting 20 ppm after RO and the tap water is PPM before reverse osmosis. I’m not sure why it’s not better than before with the new resin and pressure boost. Another question I have my old 3 stage system and want to combine both would I bought both sediment filters than both carbon filters or sediment-carbon-sediment-carbon
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Can’t seem to get 0ppm
- Thread starter Braders
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Photos would may be help and tell us exactly what R/O you have and what your tap tds is.
I can take some pictures later. But it’s a 4 state finest filter system. The tds going in from Tap Is high at 450, after RO it’s 20 then after the Di resin it’s 10
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Just my opinion but you need a 40/40 R/O not a standard R/O https://daqua.co.uk/ro_systems.htm the 2nd one on this page, the one at the bottom of the page is a standard R/O I have one of these but my tap tds is around 075ppm
Also you say Di but is it one of those 10 inch chambers on the R/O or a proper full size vessel one like on here https://daqua.co.uk/divessels.htm as I have a feeling my assumptions are correct
It also very much depends on where he bought the r/o as well. If he bought cheap then the supplier probably used cheap Chinese sourced membranes.
We used a 450GPD r/o (originally purchased from Peter Fogwill and upgraded using 150GPD membranes) for 6 years. Those 150gpd Filmtec (USA manufactured) membranes reduced 250ppm tap water to 4ppm pure before they started to 'fail' after 6 years. That r/o supplied water for 2 of us back then. We did need to plan usage though and that r/o ran for most of the week. (24/7.) It only really stopped on a Monday afternoon when we filled both van's over the weekend ready for Monday.
A 4040 was the best upgrade I did. I didn't really understand how 'rationing' our water with the 450gpd r/o restricted our growth rate.
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I assume it's one of these my good man https://www.finest-filters.co.uk/ro-filters/ro-units/ so not good at all for window cleaning
Yes it is one of them, so these are no good for window cleaning. Is that because of the quality or the amount of water it produces
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To be blunt my good man they are cheap chinese ? and aren't at all suitable for our needs, you really need one from a reputable supplier such as in the links I provided, You can even ring @doug atkinson he will best advise you on what you need, he ain't no salesman and will be honest with you when you tell him your tap tds and requirements
I have a tap tds of around 75ppm and fluctuating tap pressure, I run my 450gpd R/O overnight and it takes around 9 hours to produce 350ltrs of pure, my sediment levels also fluctuate this can also slow down production sometimes I need to change the sediment filter every 2 weeks, so I asked Doug for a clear housing for my sediment filter despite only moving 100m from our last house this was a later buy and more expensive but worth it to monitor sediment and know at a glance when the filter is done.
That’s okay bluntness is needed, I’ll look into the 4040 systems. One more thing I have an older ro unit that I no longer use with a carbon filter and sediment filter, is it worth adding these onto my current ro unit so I have 2 carbon filters and 2 sediment filters
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Personally, I would opt for 20" prefilters. The first filter is a sediment filter and it does protect against sediment blocking up the carbon filter and the membrane. The carbon filter is most important as it removes chlorine from the water. Chlorine destroys membranes. But the carbon block filter only has a finite life, called it's service life.
I use Fiberdyne C/B filters as a 20" will process 76,000 litres of water; waste plus pure; all the water your r/o uses. A 10"'s service life is half that, and I hate changing prefilters.
My 4040 runs at around 55% waste to 45% pure. We replace prefilters approx every 3 months. I have my r/o on a water meter so I know when to replace prefilters.
ched999uk
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There are far far more experienced people on here but your RO is running at about 95.5% efficiency which isn't great but not a disaster. I would say optimal setup would run at 98%. So 98% is from 450tds down to about 9tds.
If you are OK with the production rate then I would look at your DI. Going in at 20ppm and coming out at 10ppm suggests that either the volume of the DI vessel is too small for the flow rate or your resin is on it's last legs. How big is your resin tank?
ched999uk
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If you look at a resin calculator here: https://www.grippatank.co.uk/resin_calculator and put in 20ppm on a 1.5litre vessel using 2000litres a month (100l x 20 days - very low usage) then you need to refill with fresh resin about every 3.5 weeks.
How frequently are you changing resin and how much water are you using a month?
doug atkinson
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Looking at their website it may be a Vontron membrane. I have a few sat in the unit where customers have brought them in as they have not performed as advertised.
I have to say though they may be fakes as Vontron, Pentair are being hit with fakes coming from China entering the UK.
The performance when I tested them was not good and when replaced with Axeon membranes customers were happy.
Your other issue is 10” DI Housing that is too small for your input going in.
I have to say though they may be fakes as Vontron, Pentair are being hit with fakes coming from China entering the UK.
The performance when I tested them was not good and when replaced with Axeon membranes customers were happy.
Your other issue is 10” DI Housing that is too small for your input going in.
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I'd never considered upgrading to 20" pre-filters I'll have to wait as just spent over £200 on pre-filters they might last while
Jaygti
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I don’t know what stage your at at the moment with window cleaning, but It doesn’t really matter.
What matters is where you want to end up.
If your making it a full time career, where your using 1000s of ltrs a week , you really need to splash the cash and get a proper, fit for purpose set up, that’s simple ,with minimal fannying about in the evenings and weekends , as it’s really just unpaid work , which you should avoid. ????
What matters is where you want to end up.
If your making it a full time career, where your using 1000s of ltrs a week , you really need to splash the cash and get a proper, fit for purpose set up, that’s simple ,with minimal fannying about in the evenings and weekends , as it’s really just unpaid work , which you should avoid. ????
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- Durham
