New Van System Advise Please

[gladtay]

Hi looking to upgrade my window cleaning van from using backpacks to a full van mounted system I live in Scotland and soft water area , I have the opportunity at purchasing a nearly new x line 500 van mounted two man system with booster pump and automatic shut of full RO system
My main concerns with this is with being in soft water area I dont need Ro just Di would this system be suitable for me as concerned with filters being changed and extra costs etc.
hope this makes sense many thanks

 

[Pjj]

Hi looking to upgrade my window cleaning van from using backpacks to a full van mounted system I live in Scotland and soft water area , I have the opportunity at purchasing a nearly new x line 500 van mounted two man system with booster pump and automatic shut of full RO system
My main concerns with this is with being in soft water area I dont need Ro just Di would this system be suitable for me as concerned with filters being changed and extra costs etc.
hope this makes sense many thanks

What is your tap TDS reading ? Anything over 100 RO is better you could always just use pre filters and a di vessel instead of using the ro very easy to alter it if you don’t need it .

 

[gladtay]

What is your tap TDS reading ? Anything over 100 RO is better you could always just use pre filters and a di vessel instead of using the ro very easy to alter it if you don’t need it .

many thanks 56 RO from tap so would the filters just last forever and if wanting to change as you said how would I go about it

 

[scottish cleaning service]

I think anyone in Scotland should always go down the RO route no matter what the tds is. The main reason is because we don't have water meters. Resin is getting more expensive and I have never bought any because It gets replaced in my annual service. My tds is 70 and the RO's takes it down to 2 or 3 and then goes through the resin to ooo. I don't need to put waste RO water back through my membranes so it keeps them healthy. Just my opinion fwiw.

 

[Pjj]

56 from the tap is low you could get away with di only I would use the pree filters and maybe a carbon filter and di , you could use the filter system in the van and disconnect the inlet hose to the ro and connect that to a resin vessel and then put that into the tank , that will save any waist water and you won’t need tires,ace the ro membrane. Just change the resin when needed .

 

[ched999uk]

You just need to go from your tap through the DI vessel into the tank.

 

[Pjj]

You just need to go from your tap through the DI vessel into the tank.

Pre filters for sediment should be used , and possibly a 5 micron after that as a catch all then the di , from my limited experience with Scottish water it’s quite peaty and brown so filter changes might be needed more frequently.

 

[scottish cleaning service]

Pre filters for sediment should be used , and possibly a 5 micron after that as a catch all then the di , from my limited experience with Scottish water it’s quite peaty and brown so filter changes might be needed more frequently.

Yes, seems to be a lot of dirt in it, maybe from old clay pipes.

 

[gladtay]

many thanks all

 

[Part Timer]

Going back to your original post, don't buy an Xline as all filters are very expensive. Have a word with @doug atkinson he's in the Kingdom Of Fife so not far away. He'll sort you out.

 

[spruce]

Going back to your original post, don't buy an Xline as all filters are very expensive. Have a word with @doug atkinson he's in the Kingdom Of Fife so not far away. He'll sort you out.

Definitely follow this advice @gladtay Xline use standard size prefilters and membranes that are available from other suppliers.

Even although your water is very soft, you still need to replace the carbon block regularly. My 20" Fiberdyne carbon block has a service life of approx 76,000 litres, which includes waste and pure. (Some manufacturers, for example, give a service life of 6000 litres and others 12,000 litres of their carbon block prefilter offerings. Whilst they may cost less initially, they will cost more over the long term if I replaced them to their service life calculations.) The carbon block removes chlorine from the water. Chlorine and membranes aren't good bedfellows. And yes, the argument is that we don't know how much chlorine is in our tap water at any given time, but I have found that sticking to this schedule has meant my membrane is still working at a 97% rejection rate at 10 years of age. I change my prefilters every 3 to 4 months. I know when the time to change my prefilters is, as I have my r/o connected to a water meter.

My first r/o was second hand when I purchased it. It was a year old. The first owner, who was local, never changed his prefilters in the year he owned it. Those membranes were on their way out. I didn't know that. So I know I can't replace my prefilters once a year. Now I could possibly change my prefilters once every 6 months and save money on replacement prefilters. My membrane may not have lasted as long as it has, but I would have had money in the proverbial kitty to replace my membrane early, according to the 'economies of scale' principle.
I recently purchased 4 prefilter sets from Daqua @doug atkinson (sediment and carbon block) and paid £146 for them. That will last me for just over a year. Interesting cost figures, those. Replacing prefilters every 6 months would save me £70 a year. That means I will save enough money to buy a new membrane in 51/2 years. (HF5 Axeon.) But would the membrane still last longer than 51/2 years? If it does, I've saved money, but if it lasts less than 51/2 years, then it's cost me money.

A 25 litre sack of resin lasts me 4 years.

 

[doug atkinson]

Are you based in Dunfermline!