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RO Filter missing attachment

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Thanks all , really appreciated . 

Im all up and running now and have pure water ready to use tomorrow for my first WFP job. 

I will monitor the water and i will probably invest in a bigger vessel soon , how much am i looking at spending? 

any tips for the first time using my pole? I have an SLX 30 and i have a medium hard brush with pencil jets and a flocked sill brush with fan jets. 

thanks again  


Most would say to practice on your own house windows and those of your relatives first. This is the best way of putting the theory you have learnt into practice. You then let the windows dry and see what the problems are. Just guiding a brush at height is a skill in itself. Vertical strokes are easier to manage than horizontal ones are.

As you have your first clean to do tomorrow then you just have to put on a subtle air of confidence that you know what you are doing as this is old hat to you.

Firstly, lets hope you have UPVC windows rather than a house with painted wooden frames that are in terrible condition. Then you need to give the window frames, top, bottom and sides a good scrub along with the glass. Run the brush along the top of the glass. along the bottom and then the sides. Then clean the glass inside the 'box' you have created. Rinse very well. More onto the next window and repeat. Then start at the bottom windows and do them as well. Obviously include the cills which you do last with every window. Between windows it might be worth your while running your fingers across the brush head with the water running to remove any muck and spider webs.

You might have to wait a while and go back and reclean the glass only starting from the first window you cleaned. My advise is to tell the customer you will be back to check if the windows are all ok once they have dried. Once you are happy with the result, then ask for payment.

We have been doing wfp 12 years and we still use this same procedure if we are doing a new clean.

Here's Alex's video that will also help you.






 
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Thank you very much mate , that helps me a great deal , luckily the customer today is a friend of a family member so will understand when I explain that it may take longer as I want to make sure I've completed the job to a high standard then I am going to run round a few family members houses and give them a go . 

What flow do you use from your pump? and will it be different for pencil / fan jets? 

 
Thank you very much mate , that helps me a great deal , luckily the customer today is a friend of a family member so will understand when I explain that it may take longer as I want to make sure I've completed the job to a high standard then I am going to run round a few family members houses and give them a go . 

What flow do you use from your pump? and will it be different for pencil / fan jets? 


We have Varistream controllers. I usually work on a flow setting of 4 but for new cleans I will often push up one to 5 which is more than enough using 2mm pencils.

I prefer pencils as you can target your rinse which helps to flush the bits off the glass. But that's my preference - others will tell you fans are better.

We have a brush that has both fans and pencils fitted. I do prefer to use the fan jets when doing houses with wooden window frames or those old lead windows as they tend to leak less. When I use fan jets on old leaded windows I usually use 3 and used 4 on some wooden window frames yesterday. 5 seems to create much more overspray if rinsing off the glass which is the way I have always done it.

 
Great thank you , job went well , absolutely filthy conservatory roof , jumped in at the deep end but took my time and it felt nice being able to clean the windows above the conservatory lol. 

What filters do you have? and where do you buy your resin? 

Thanks 

 
Great thank you , job went well , absolutely filthy conservatory roof , jumped in at the deep end but took my time and it felt nice being able to clean the windows above the conservatory lol. 

What filters do you have? and where do you buy your resin? 

Thanks 




For me I prefer Fiberdyne carbon block filters and I buy the sediment filter from Gardiners as well. (sediment is the first and carbon block is the second.) Daqua also sell a quality carbon block filter. Yours is a 10" filter.

My recommendation is one that is 5 micron. There are 1 micron on the market with a longer service life but they tend to block up early if your water has sediment in it which ours does. The sediment filters are 5 micron, so what passes through that will also pass through your c/b filter and not block it up.

Tulsion MB115 resin comes from Daqua and Gardiners also can be relied on the sell a quality product, Tulsion again.

There are other resin suppliers in the market selling other brands, but I have only used Tulsion and its given me excellent service.

 
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Sorry to sound stupid but is the micron filter a DI filter? 

my water is coming out of the RO Filter at 10ppm and coming out of the DI filter at 7ppm , it was 0 when I first had water through and I've only filtered about 250 litres of water. 

few questions 

Would they mean I need to replace the Resin? 

Can I clean windows at 7ppm? 

Is there a filter I can buy which holds more resin? 

How do I change the Resin , is it as easy as throwing away the Resin inside and pouring more In? is there a particular amount I need to put it. 

Can you use any resin with my 10" DI filter? 

Thanks mate 

 
Sorry to sound stupid but is the micron filter a DI filter? 
 
my water is coming out of the RO Filter at 10ppm and coming out of the DI filter at 7ppm , it was 0 when I first had water through and I've only filtered about 250 litres of water. 
few questions 
Would they mean I need to replace the Resin? 
Can I clean windows at 7ppm? 
Is there a filter I can buy which holds more resin? 
How do I change the Resin , is it as easy as throwing away the Resin inside and pouring more In? is there a particular amount I need to put it. 
Can you use any resin with my 10" DI filter? 
Thanks mate 
Micron filter is your paper filter (clear pot) micron being the size of particle it will filter.
Your Di filter is the pot that holds your resin cartridge.
When you refill ur resin cartridge simply empty the spent resin (i personally clean the cartridge out with pure before i refill it)
Dont fill it right to the top leave about an inch clearence so you can get the lid on easily.
Try and make sure you dont have any resin grains in the lid thread.
Did you apply silicon jelly when you 1st assembled your ro as you shouldnt be at 7ppm after 250 litres.
Yescyou can get a bigger Di vessel but i would get your ro running right before you get a bigger vessel as you wont know your eating rhrough it unless you had an inline tds tester.



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Micron filter is your paper filter (clear pot) micron being the size of particle it will filter.
Your Di filter is the pot that holds your resin cartridge.
When you refill ur resin cartridge simply empty the spent resin (i personally clean the cartridge out with pure before i refill it)
Dont fill it right to the top leave about an inch clearence so you can get the lid on easily.
Try and make sure you dont have any resin grains in the lid thread.
Did you apply silicon jelly when you 1st assembled your ro as you shouldnt be at 7ppm after 250 litres.
Yescyou can get a bigger Di vessel but i would get your ro running right before you get a bigger vessel as you wont know your eating rhrough it unless you had an inline tds tester.



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Well the water is coming out of the RO Filter at 10 , the water from the tap is 290.  Originally the water was coming out of the DI filter at 0 but it's

 now at 7 :| , is this ok to clean windows? 

So the RO Filter includes a Micron filter and what else? 

No I didn't apply Jelly , where and how should I have done that? 

I really appreciate all your help and thanks for your patience , I done a lot of research before I bought it and still feel clueless! 

I have bought a garden keter unit and want to insulate the filter it in that but not sure how to start with that either lol , winter is coming , hopefully doesn't freeze tonight! 

Would this be ok to use? 

Screenshot_20171116-181753.png

 
1stly if your kits is outside and not protected thats your 1st priority pal.. if we do get a frost and its enough to freeze your ro it will bugger it. Either bring it indoors bit failing that somehow try and cover it with old towels. sheets or anything that will protect it from the frost.
007 ppm in my opinion is too high to clean with but have heard of windys doing this without realising it was that high and getting away with it so its upto you really.
Bare in mind your trying to convert custys from trad to wfp and the last thing you want is complaints about the windows not being right.

On your original pic at the start of the thread going from right to left is
Paper filter
Carbon filter
Carbon filter
Then x3 membraines above then into your resin pot (di vessel)

My resin looks darker bit not much when its about exhausted

Sent using the http://Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

 
1stly if your kits is outside and not protected thats your 1st priority pal.. if we do get a frost and its enough to freeze your ro it will bugger it. Either bring it indoors bit failing that somehow try and cover it with old towels. sheets or anything that will protect it from the frost.
007 ppm in my opinion is too high to clean with but have heard of windys doing this without realising it was that high and getting away with it so its upto you really.
Bare in mind your trying to convert custys from trad to wfp and the last thing you want is complaints about the windows not being right.

On your original pic at the start of the thread going from right to left is
Paper filter
Carbon filter
Carbon filter
Then x3 membraines above then into your resin pot (di vessel)

My resin looks darker bit not much when its about exhausted

Sent using the http://Window Cleaning Forums mobile app
 


It's currently in the Keter covered by sheets and tarpurlin , I am trying to get a housing cupboard built by a carpenter friend and I will insulate it and get an 80w heater , what's the best insulation to use in your opinion?

Yes that's a very good point , I have 100L of pure water ( 0 ) and a couple hundred going up from 1- 7 and I have a couple of pubs to clean tomorrow so I should get away with it but for my domestic customers I would definately want it to be as close to perfect as possible. 

Ahh got ya , so are the 2 Carbon filters the same thing just doubled up ? 

Cheers

 
Yep 2 carbon (using fibredyne i have 2 paper and 1 carbon but only if using fyberdyne) amd 1 paper.
Were are you based cos if your localish you can pinch 500litres of my pure until you get yourself sorted.

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2 hours ago, Kelsey Smith said:

Sorry to sound stupid but is the micron filter a DI filter?

No, it the size of the 'holes' that let the water through in the sediment and carbon block filters. Talking of replacement components PF want £9.02 for a 10" sediment filter where Gardiners are selling a similar product for £2.05.

http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/sediment-carbon-filters/sediment-pre-filter-10.html

here is the Fiberdyne carbon block filter.

http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/sediment-carbon-filters/fibredyne-cfb-plus-sediment-carbon-pre-filter-10.html

Yes the Fiberdyne is more expensive but will service 3 times more water.

my water is coming out of the RO Filter at 10ppm and coming out of the DI filter at 7ppm , it was 0 when I first had water through and I've only filtered about 250 litres of water.

This is why you need a bigger di vessel. The resin is quickly spent having to remove those last few impurities from the water. That's why you started at 0ppm out of your r/o and now its 7ppm. ATM your r/o is running at just less than 97% efficiency. That should improve slightly with time provided they have fitted your r/o with the same membranes they sell as parts.
 

few questions 

Would they mean I need to replace the Resin? Yes. You will have to remove the housing by unscrewing it and you will probably see an inner cartridge. You should be able to pry off the push fit cap, remove the sponge gasket and shake the resin out into a plastic bag for binning. Replace with new resin and reassemble.

Can I clean windows at 7ppm? I can't but you will find windies that say you can clean window with water at 10ppm. With our water I can see tiny white spots on the lounge windows in the low level morning sun at 4ppm. Your customer probably won't notice, especially in winter, but a poor quality clean reflects badly on your reputation. When new to wfp and window cleaning, I don't believe you can take that chance. This is why practicing on your own windows is a good learning curve.

Is there a filter I can buy which holds more resin? 

Here is an example of a 7 liter DI vessel. If you buy a 25 liter bag of resin, it will do 4 resin changes if you fill it to the bend with resin.

then fill it with pure water which makes it easier to replace the riser tube and baskets. I like this size as its easier to handle when emptying the old resin.

http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/de-ionisation/7-litre-resin-bead-pressure-vessel-canister-1812.html

How do I change the Resin , is it as easy as throwing away the Resin inside and pouring more In? is there a particular amount I need to put it. Shake out as much as you can into a plastic bag and resin the rest under the hose.



 
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