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Static Ro in Van queery

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johnny bravo

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Is it worth it installing a static 4040 Ro system    Benefits  are

My TDS out of water tap around 148.       I know lots use static ro systems due to  dificulties producing from a home Ro system .

My worry would be having to use more Resin  than i would  to get it down to 000.

Anyone got same water TDS or Similar  do you go through much resin 

 
Is it worth it installing a static 4040 Ro system    Benefits  are

My TDS out of water tap around 148.       I know lots use static ro systems due to  dificulties producing from a home Ro system .

My worry would be having to use more Resin  than i would  to get it down to 000.

Anyone got same water TDS or Similar  do you go through much resin 
@spruce @ched999uk @doug atkinson are the RO masters 

 
Van mount or Home system both have their +ve and -ve. 

With a home system you may be able to have a larger capacity than in your van. So you always have a reserve of pure just in case. If using a van system and something goes wrong with the over night production you have no pure for the next day!!!!

Having a van mount would enable you to process at a customers property if it's a big job?

While you say your tds 148 you don't mention pressure. ie. if you have low pressure (less than 80 psi) then you need a booster pump. It might be easier to have a booster pump with a home based system as you have complications with having to have 230vac installed in your van.

The 4040 system for a van vs home is the same system so costs are no different. That said a van mount system might need a bit more securing as vibrations can loosen things.

If you want to find about resin there is a calculator here: https://www.grippatank.co.uk/resin_calculator that might help give you an idea on usage if you use a typical membranes efficiency figure to calculate how much tds reduction you should get and have a rough idea how much pure you use a month.

 
Is it worth it installing a static 4040 Ro system    Benefits  are

My TDS out of water tap around 148.       I know lots use static ro systems due to  dificulties producing from a home Ro system .

My worry would be having to use more Resin  than i would  to get it down to 000.

Anyone got same water TDS or Similar  do you go through much resin 
I have similar water tds as you do Johnny. My 4040 r/o has an HF5 Axeon membrane fitted. Our water pressure atm is 55psi, 5 psi higher than it was in the summer months. As you know, I don't have a booster pump.  I checked the tds from the r/o yesterday, and it was 3ppm, which is usual.  Tap water tds is 120 to 125ppm. I produce around 2 litres of pure per minute. As I have my static system on a float level switch with solenoid valve, the tap water to the r/o turns off automatically when the IBC tank is full.

It's the same membrane I fitted back in July 2012 as is still performing at 97% rejection rate. I hardly ever flush the membrane. When I do, it's just for a couple of minutes at the most.

I have a 6 litre DI vessel which I refill approx once a year when the tds climbs to 1ppm. A bag of resin lasts me 4 years. Obviously you should use more water than I do as I don't do as much work as I did a few years ago. I doubt you will use double the amount of water I do, but that will give you an idea.

I don't bother with the tds creep when the r/o starts up. I just let the resin absorb that extra tds while it's settling down.

Again, 50 psi is at the bottom of an HF5's efficiency. I notice that if the water pressure drops to 40 psi, my pure tds rises to 4 or 5ppm. If someone flushes the toilet, the water pressure drops below 40psi while the toilet tank refills. If the wife wants to water the garden that day, I switch the r/o off and switch is back at night before I go to bed. The IBC tank is full in the morning.

I have also set my float switch up to only activate after I draw around 250 litres from my IBC tank. If I only draw 200 litres to just top up my tank, the r/o will not switch on until I draw more water the following day. I didn't want my r/o to run to top up my IBC tank if I drew just 50 litres, as the r/o wouldn't run efficiently.

The other important factor regarding a 4040 is how much water your tap delivers. My r/o uses a little over 4 LPM. When I checked years ago, our tap delivered 13 LPM. I seem to remember one of the suppliers saying a 4040 needs around 9 litres per minute, but I expect that pure to waste ratio has something to do with that as well as using a booster pump.

The water regulations restrict you from drawing more than 12 LPM of water from the water mains if you have low delivery. (With 13 LPM, I'm not allowed to draw more than 13 LPM, if that makes sense.) This is why you should never flush your membrane with the booster pump switched on.

Back in the day, I was really confused about which membrane to buy. PureFreedom did tell me that an HF4 membrane will perform as well as an HF5 with 50psi. My 'gut' wasn't happy with that advice thb. I'm honestly glad I decided to go the HF5 route. It has outperformed my expectations. 

A fellow windie on the same water as myself ran a Merlin. His pure before DI was 10, and he filled his similar sized DI vessel once every 3 months with the amount of water he used, which, back then, was similar to the amount of water I used.

Before I had a 4040, I used a 450gpd r/o. That used to perform with a similar rejection rate using Filmtec membranes. My belief is that you buy the best membranes made in the USA. Chinese membranes are cheaper but will not last as long, and as they are less efficient, will end up costing you more in resin. In winter that 450 gpd r/o took around 36 hours to fill my 1000 litre IBC tank. I was always rationing water.

Those Filmtec membranes lasted me 6 years. I put that down to not being that fastidious with regard to prefilter changing. I now have my r/o on a water meter, so I know exactly when the prefilters need replacing.

My r/o is in my garage. It's in a cabinet with a 120 watt tube heater on a temperature switch. When the temperature inside the cabinet drops to 6 degrees C, the thermostat kicks on and switches off at around 9 degrees. It keeps the r/o from freezing up.

 
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Cheers Spruce,   120 water tube heater  just seen on Amazon   i like the idea of that .   thinking of getting the Baileys 4040 Ro   Portable to go in the out house.   . Heater tube would be easy to keep from damage on Frosty nights .

Im using around 1500 / 2000 litres a week .

Keep trying to cut down but just cant stop getting new customers .  Too many new build estates getting built around by me .  

 
Cheers Spruce,   120 water tube heater  just seen on Amazon   i like the idea of that .   thinking of getting the Baileys 4040 Ro   Portable to go in the out house.   . Heater tube would be easy to keep from damage on Frosty nights .

Im using around 1500 / 2000 litres a week .

Keep trying to cut down but just cant stop getting new customers .  Too many new build estates getting built around by me .  
Quote higher. You can afford to now as you have an established customer base.

Ro 1.jpg

ro2.jpg

 
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Quote higher. You can afford to now as you have an established customer base.

View attachment 25999

View attachment 26000
Very good informative posts never knew not to run booster when flushing 

i assume that your the filter box has a cover to go over it? 
looks so simple yet you have everything included so that it’s pretty much self operating 

would like to add all the extras like shut off and heaters etc but moving house shortly and don’t want to make anything permanent atm!

 
Very good informative posts never knew not to run booster when flushing 

I assume that your filter box has a cover to go over it? 
looks so simple yet you have everything included so that it’s pretty much self operating 

would like to add all the extras like shut off and heaters etc but moving house shortly and don’t want to make anything permanent atm!
Yes I have.

Regarding booster pumps and flushing; if you dig into the specs for shower booster pumps you will find that they only boost the water flow and pressure enough to be within the 12lpm water draw regulations. 

We're I to move, I would uncouple the water supply at the inlet at the bottom of the cabinet, unplug the electric at the top, unbolt the cabinet from the wall and take it all to the next house. The hoses to waste and my pure IBC tank are on Hozeloks so just unplug.

My IBC tank is on the other side of the garage in the far corner. I would have to remove the electric cable from the rafters that supply the solenoid valve from the float switch inside the tank.

Even although I have tried to make it 'plug and play', moving the whole system to another house would still be a major undertaking.

4040 ro 051b.jpg

 
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Keep trying to cut down but just cant stop getting new customers .  Too many new build estates getting built around by me . 
Drop the jobs you really don't want or that are less profitable than others, all my new jobs are quoted higher and I still get them, but like you I can't say no either but, I dropped 10 jobs the other night and more are to go as I won't manage through the winter with over 430 jobs to clean 

 
Yes I have.

Regarding booster pumps and flushing; if you dig into the specs for shower booster pumps you will find that they only boost the water flow and pressure enough to be within the 12lpm water draw regulations. 

We're I to move, I would uncouple the water supply at the inlet at the bottom of the cabinet, unplug the electric at the top, unbolt the cabinet from the wall and take it all to the next house. The hoses to waste and my pure IBC tank are on Hozeloks so just unplug.

My IBC tank is on the other side of the garage in the far corner. I would have to remove the electric cable from the rafters that supply the solenoid valve from the float switch inside the tank.

Even although I have tried to make it 'plug and play', moving the whole system to another house would still be a major undertaking.

View attachment 26004
I think @doug atkinson recommends flushing with booster pump on?

 
I wonder if the difference of opinion re flushing pump on or off is due to the possibility that their pumps could pull more than 12L/min and therefore break water bylaws. 

The interesting question would be does pump on flushing lengthen the lifespan of the membrane? Assuming it didn't break any bylaws ?

 
I wonder if the difference of opinion re flushing pump on or off is due to the possibility that their pumps could pull more than 12L/min and therefore break water bylaws. 

The interesting question would be does pump on flushing lengthen the lifespan of the membrane? Assuming it didn't break any bylaws ?
I think the quality of the water has far bigger part in the lifespan of a membrane, no matter how many times, booster on or off, you flush 

 
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