Strange fualt pump cant calibrate cant be air.

[Quickwindowclean]

Has anybody heard of a possible faulty switch ? everything been working fine for a very long time

Its is the kind which is digital so two arrows and an enter button.

Basically cant calibrate it and it comes up with an ERR code if you try to auto calibrate start and stops. If you try to manually calibrate and set it higher to make sure it flows it will still start and stop after a while.

Even running from the valve seems to be a problem it will also stop.

It cannot be air there is a valve just after the pump which you can turn and suck out any potential air so you can prime the pump.

I had an issue not long ago on the other pump it just literally stopped it was doing nothing apart from showing dead-end I replace the pump and it was fine.

I didn't think anything of it as that pump was old but it turns out I am using a 5 mil hose so that's the one less then the 6m everyone usually uses is it possible either that the controller is faulty on the side which is currently dodgy? the pump does actually work so I'm not totally sure however on the other side it completely stopped is it possible that the 5m small small tube is causing a problem and putting pressure on the pump and breaking them?

That hose is so easy to use but if its causing a problem with pumps will need to change..

Battery is fully charged the pump does work intermittently it's not an airlock I'm almost certain I'll be absolutely shocked if it was.

Is basically refusing to calibrate showing error codes

Cheers.

 

[Deleted member 7446]

Has anybody heard of a possible faulty switch ? everything been working fine for a very long time

Its is the kind which is digital so two arrows and an enter button.

Basically cant calibrate it and it comes up with an ERR code if you try to auto calibrate start and stops. If you try to manually calibrate and set it higher to make sure it flows it will still start and stop after a while.

Even running from the valve seems to be a problem it will also stop.

It cannot be air there is a valve just after the pump which you can turn and suck out any potential air so you can prime the pump.

I had an issue not long ago on the other pump it just literally stopped it was doing nothing apart from showing dead-end I replace the pump and it was fine.

I didn't think anything of it as that pump was old but it turns out I am using a 5 mil hose so that's the one less then the 6m everyone usually uses is it possible either that the controller is faulty on the side which is currently dodgy? the pump does actually work so I'm not totally sure however on the other side it completely stopped is it possible that the 5m small small tube is causing a problem and putting pressure on the pump and breaking them?

That hose is so easy to use but if its causing a problem with pumps will need to change..

Battery is fully charged the pump does work intermittently it's not an airlock I'm almost certain I'll be absolutely shocked if it was.

Is basically refusing to calibrate showing error codes

Cheers.

What system are you using.

Is it factory built or DIY

Check all connections are air tight

are you using hoselock connections on your pump

Without a hosereel connected to your pump allow the water to flow at 99 and run it for a few minutes to ensure that any trapped air in the pump is expelled.

Then reconnect your hosereel and do the same step for a few minutes

Then update this post for further help

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Has anybody heard of a possible faulty switch ? everything been working fine for a very long time

Its is the kind which is digital so two arrows and an enter button.

Basically cant calibrate it and it comes up with an ERR code if you try to auto calibrate start and stops. If you try to manually calibrate and set it higher to make sure it flows it will still start and stop after a while.

Even running from the valve seems to be a problem it will also stop.

It cannot be air there is a valve just after the pump which you can turn and suck out any potential air so you can prime the pump.

I had an issue not long ago on the other pump it just literally stopped it was doing nothing apart from showing dead-end I replace the pump and it was fine.

I didn't think anything of it as that pump was old but it turns out I am using a 5 mil hose so that's the one less then the 6m everyone usually uses is it possible either that the controller is faulty on the side which is currently dodgy? the pump does actually work so I'm not totally sure however on the other side it completely stopped is it possible that the 5m small small tube is causing a problem and putting pressure on the pump and breaking them?

That hose is so easy to use but if its causing a problem with pumps will need to change..

Battery is fully charged the pump does work intermittently it's not an airlock I'm almost certain I'll be absolutely shocked if it was.

Is basically refusing to calibrate showing error codes

Cheers.

Hi

The Controller will display Err during auto calibration when A. The pump pressure switch has activated Or B because Enter has been pressed while the controller is running through auto cal. The post above mentions that the pump is cycling ( start/stopping ) when this happens does the controller show PS ( pressure switch ) or DE (dead end) If the controller is showing PS then this is the controller indicating that the pump pressure switch has activated due to high pressure in the system, The controller does not activate the pressure switch

IF PS is displayed then there is need to find what is causing the pressure switch to activate. As Austin has mentioned this could be a loose hose connection, or blockage in the hose. Brush jets or any pump pre filter. Also check that the tank breather hole is not blocked. In some cases running a High Flow rate and High calibration ( 90,s +) can cause high pressure in the system in this instance turning the flow rate down can help. Driving the pump to hard can create back pressure with the pump effectively working against itself

As the attached document the controller will also show PS if there is a loose wiring connection or wiring fault. Check for any damaged cable or Cable connectors including the fuse and fuse holder and replace any that are corroded. Also check cables to the pump and to the Battery negative terminal. Avoid using choc blocks for cable connections as these have exposed cable connections https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-v5MsRC3EDs

As above the controller will not auto cal while the pump pump pressure switch has activated this is because the pump has switched off to protect itself from hi pressure. You can drive the controller out of Err by using the up or down buttons then pressing enter to manually set cal.

As a final note check any pole valves/ Univalve are fully opening as if these are only partly opening they can create pressure in the system and activate the pump pressure switch

PS Message .doc

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Secondly if Calibration is to low for the flow rate being used ( for example) Flow 60 and Cal 10 the pump will be cycled on/off. The answer here is usually to increase the calibration value. As a suggestion it is best to auto calibrate using your preferred flow rate so if you normally run a flow of 55 its best to auto cal at that flow rate to ensure the cal value is accurate. The reason foe calibrating is so the controller knows what the current draw of the pump is when in open flow.

An example is at a flow of 50 the pump could be drawing 3amps and this is what the controller expects to see. Turning off the pole valve means the pump will push against the closed valve. The pump draws more current and its this change the controller uses to know when to dead end the pump. 

In my first example if calibration is 10 the control expects current to be lower and will DE the pump, Current drops and the pump restarts, Current spikes again and the controller dead ends the pump and so on. Increasing the cal value so the controller is less sensitive ( expects a higher current) solves this one

 

[Quickwindowclean]

Thank you very much ian.

Do you know about using 5m internal hose?

I have a feeling that might be something broken in the pump because of the previous pump.

I'm going to swap it over and let you know if it's fixed the problem that means I've eliminated the pump?

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Thank you very much ian.

Do you know about using 5m internal hose?

I have a feeling that might be something broken in the pump because of the previous pump.

I'm going to swap it over and let you know if it's fixed the problem that means I've eliminated the pump?

The smaller the ID of the hose the less water it can carry. Some systems will use 8mm between the tank and pump as this gives better flow to the pump inlet. Then from the pump to the reel  with 6cm or 5cm on the reel and pole. 

Using 5mm from the tank to pump would reduce the water flow to the pump slightly and it may have to work a little harder to compensate. But the difference would not be great.

 

[Deleted member 7446]

Thank you very much ian.

Do you know about using 5m internal hose?

I have a feeling that might be something broken in the pump because of the previous pump.

I'm going to swap it over and let you know if it's fixed the problem that means I've eliminated the pump?

For my own built systems from tank to pump i always use 12mm braided PVC hose which enables the pump to have a great flow in and the same to my hosereel.

I use streamline 6mm hi viz hose if that helps

 

[Quickwindowclean]

The smaller the ID of the hose the less water it can carry. Some systems will use 8mm between the tank and pump as this gives better flow to the pump inlet. Then from the pump to the reel  with 6cm or 5cm on the reel and pole. 

Using 5mm from the tank to pump would reduce the water flow to the pump slightly and it may have to work a little harder to compensate. But the difference would not be great.

Yes it's quite thick from The Tank to the pump from the pump to the reel. Then its 50m of 6m and 50m of 5m tubing. It might just be my perception thinking it's ruining pumps?

The 5 mil tubing of 50 m is really easy to work with I'm just wondering why nobody else really use it and was thinking maybe that is why

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Yes it's quite thick from The Tank to the pump from the pump to the reel. Then its 50m of 6m and 50m of 5m tubing. It might just be my perception thinking it's ruining pumps?

The 5 mil tubing of 50 m is really easy to work with I'm just wondering why nobody else really use it and was thinking maybe that is why

This set up is widely used so its unlikely to be an issue with the hose ID. More likely it will be down to a loose hose fitting or the Pump pressure switch cycling on/off if pressure is high. Could also just be DE was a little low for the flow rate used. Be interesting to know what flow rate and the Cal settings are