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Probably not the best pic, another one attached showing more - there's a fair amount of algae on there (and potentially the black lichen as @scottish cleaning service suggests.Why do they want them cleaning what’s on them ???
Makes sense, so the likelihood of getting them back to the red / brown look is pretty slim? I'm seeing a few photos online of wooden cladding cleaned and looking almost new.. but a lot of them mention they steam clean them, which obviously we can't do. Wondering if I just offer a patch test and go from there to be honestCedar cladding looks great when it is first put on. Even sealing with an outside varnish doesn't last long up here in Scotland. It always turns black and ghastly looking. Better to replace with rosewood PVC which will last well and look well. I'm a joiner to trade and always like working with cedar but only if its fitted inside a building because I know the outcome when it is fitted outside where the weather will effect its appearance.
Going by the colour of them I think they would need to be bleached. I think only solution is removal and replace with PVC. fwiwI would try experimenting with a hypo mix at different strengths on an area that’s out of the way , Ime not saying they will come up like new but sure they would look a lot better than they do I would try a 10-1 mix first see what happens ,then depending on results 6-1 mix .
@kevinc250 maybe able to offer some advice , maybe a bio mix could do something???
I would try a hypo mix it will bring them up a lot better than they look at the moment, not sure if bio would also clean them up over timeGoing by the colour of them I think they would need to be bleached. I think only solution is removal and replace with PVC. fwiw
Suggested we patch test it with hypo and see what happens, then if they want to go ahead at least they’ll have seen what they’re getting.I would try a hypo mix it will bring them up a lot better than they look at the moment, not sure if bio would also clean them up over time
Evan if they are going to paint them the mould and algae will need killing off first or it will grow through the paintSuggested we patch test it with hypo and see what happens, then if they want to go ahead at least they’ll have seen what they’re getting.
For context this is one building on a school site that we’re also looking to get the windows on and they had mentioned maybe next year they’ll paint them so I guess anything better than nothing.
Bloody love school season we’ve got them seemingly coming out of our ears ?
This the one?For your info I remember reading a post on the Benz website about the same kind of job they'd just done with before and after pics. They used a combination of Lightning Cleanze and Bio Cleanze and the post goes into the dilution rates used and process etc. You should look it up as guidance.
Yes I agree it is a bit confusing, hypochlorite comes under the chemical heading of biocides , although it’s a bleach , Ime sure @Dave B or @kevinc250 will be able it explain why ,both have a very good knowledge on this subject.This the one?
How to soft wash timber decking & wooden buildings
These guidelines enable the effective application of Benz Bio Cleanze / Perma Cleanze and Lightning Cleanze when treating wooden buildings, timber decking, wood fences, wood sheds, wood wall cladding and wood garden furniture.www.benzsoftwash.com
Looks exactly like the job. So bio cleanze is their biocide and lightning cleanze is their hypo? This is where I start to get confused with the Benz site as I was always under the impression bio and hypo were two very different processes, yet lightning cleanze says it’s hypochlorite biocide ?
I’ve been looking at other companies as well and the cynic in me always wonders if some of these (not saying Benz are at all) products are just hypo by another name?!
I read/heard something the other day that suggested a company can register 'their' hypo as a biocide and basically they have to provide chemical formula and usage instructions. Then as a Biocide, legally you are not allowed to add anything to it unless it's approved by the supplier!! So no adding a surfactant from a 3rd party seller. Again if something is registered as a biocide I think you need PA1 and PA6 to be paid to treat things!Yes I agree it is a bit confusing, hypochlorite comes under the chemical heading of biocides , although it’s a bleach , Ime sure @Dave B or @kevinc250 will be able it explain why ,both have a very good knowledge on this subject.
Annoyingly had to use pure for the test because no other water supply at the time, but set water supply as a condition on the quote to do the full jobWet it down with tap water first get it nice and wet then apply the hypo mix so that it will stay on the surface and not sink in , I wouldn’t use pure for rinsing just use garden hose