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Moerman Liquidator

WCF

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Yeah agreed. But the rubbers only £2.45. Another £7 on top just to get it. I'm not tight but to me tats taking the mick a bit. My 1 bit of unger can last me up to 4 weeks. That's £4.95 all in & I get 3 strips out of it plus 1 for my 6 inch. That's 3 months worth of rubber & if I buy 2 lots its same price as the facelift & will last me 6 months. Don't think I could save much more then that.

 
Yeah agreed. But the rubbers only £2.45. Another £7 on top just to get it. I'm not tight but to me tats taking the mick a bit. My 1 bit of unger can last me up to 4 weeks. That's £4.95 all in & I get 3 strips out of it plus 1 for my 6 inch. That's 3 months worth of rubber & if I buy 2 lots its same price as the facelift & will last me 6 months. Don't think I could save much more then that.
10 to 12 inch rubbers work out at about 90p if you use the 36 inch ones and cut them down. That's 45p a side, I change mine almost every day, sometimes sooner, so the expense (per day) works out OK. having said all that, I'm just starting with the Liquidator, so that might make a difference, we'll see.

 
Bought the 14" liquidator and have fitted it with facelift rubber, that I use in modded unger channels. I like the channel, but im really struggling to use the squeegee, I have one fitted in the new moermann handle and also tried it in the unger ergotec handle.

My problem is the angle of holding the squeegee handle, it seems to be very specific, very flat(horizontal) on the window and not much room for error, when trying to finish and lifting the handle away (not by much in my eyes) from frame there is a soap trail in the curvature of the end clip. My modded channels have a lot of forgiveness compared to it. I feel the rubber is jumping a bit with fanning as well even when im taking it easy compared to modded channel. I want it to work, im missing something obviously:oops:, what is it?

My wife, sister and other window cleaner have tried it and all get same results, so I know its not just me, should have sold it with instructions for dummies:).

 
i lost one of the end tips yesterday. couldnt carry on working till it was found- which meant retracing my steps to the previous job where it was found near a back gate. im now going to glue it on .

might be an idea to buy a spare small channel just so ive spare tips to hand

 
Bought the 14" liquidator and have fitted it with facelift rubber, that I use in modded unger channels. I like the channel, but im really struggling to use the squeegee, I have one fitted in the new moermann handle and also tried it in the unger ergotec handle.
My problem is the angle of holding the squeegee handle, it seems to be very specific, very flat(horizontal) on the window and not much room for error, when trying to finish and lifting the handle away (not by much in my eyes) from frame there is a soap trail in the curvature of the end clip. My modded channels have a lot of forgiveness compared to it. I feel the rubber is jumping a bit with fanning as well even when im taking it easy compared to modded channel. I want it to work, im missing something obviously:oops:, what is it?

My wife, sister and other window cleaner have tried it and all get same results, so I know its not just me, should have sold it with instructions for dummies:).
the same problem here

 
Bought the 14" liquidator and have fitted it with facelift rubber, that I use in modded unger channels. I like the channel, but im really struggling to use the squeegee, I have one fitted in the new moermann handle and also tried it in the unger ergotec handle.
My problem is the angle of holding the squeegee handle, it seems to be very specific, very flat(horizontal) on the window and not much room for error, when trying to finish and lifting the handle away (not by much in my eyes) from frame there is a soap trail in the curvature of the end clip. My modded channels have a lot of forgiveness compared to it. I feel the rubber is jumping a bit with fanning as well even when im taking it easy compared to modded channel. I want it to work, im missing something obviously:oops:, what is it?

My wife, sister and other window cleaner have tried it and all get same results, so I know its not just me, should have sold it with instructions for dummies:).
Make sure the rubber is cut absolutely flush with the end clips. The Facelift rubber is a touch thicker than Moerman so make sure that the clips aren't holding the rubber too loose OR too tight. You just want it to be snug. I found with my clips and the Facelift rubber that I had to heat and actually prise the back of the clip a touch wider because it was distorting the rubber. Also, yep you have to be pedantic with the angle, it is not forgiving...

 
i lost one of the end tips yesterday. couldnt carry on working till it was found- which meant retracing my steps to the previous job where it was found near a back gate. im now going to glue it on .might be an idea to buy a spare small channel just so ive spare tips to hand
Hi boarcity, I was thinking that you and your workers all use the wagtail with liquidator, so wondering if the wagtail handle actually holds the squeegee on the window at the proper angle better. You guys use ladders, so you may be working at full stretch sometimes, which with the wagtail, you dont have to use such an exact angle when closing out, without leaving a soap trail, in the curve( not at end) of endclip?

 
Hi boarcity, I was thinking that you and your workers all use the wagtail with liquidator, so wondering if the wagtail handle actually holds the squeegee on the window at the proper angle better. You guys use ladders, so you may be working at full stretch sometimes, which with the wagtail, you dont have to use such an exact angle when closing out, without leaving a soap trail, in the curve( not at end) of endclip?
iv not had any lines or soap trail left - i took great care getting the angle of the channel in the wagtail set at exact angle [ after fookin up my first effort] . the only way it works is having the angle of channel rubber blade set Exactly as it was in the original channel. As it happens only 2 of us are using this set up,we both love it - the other 2 havnt even tried their brand spankin new Moermans out ! very suspicious of change are country boys !!!

 
Been playing again, still getting a soap trail within the curve of the endclip with moerman handle set at 40o angle, when trying to finish off(close out), but no issue using it in the zero degree angle, but not the best angle to work with(wheres my pole), will carry on trying to work it out:confused:

 
iv not had any lines or soap trail left - i took great care getting the angle of the channel in the wagtail set at exact angle [ after fookin up my first effort] . the only way it works is having the angle of channel rubber blade set Exactly as it was in the original channel. As it happens only 2 of us are using this set up,we both love it - the other 2 havnt even tried their brand spankin new Moermans out ! very suspicious of change are country boys !!!
Hi boar

Which wagtail are you using slimline or pivot as I am looking to get one

 
View attachment 4336

Nice one cheers do you have to drill the channel ?
yes. i think its a 3mm drill bit i used . to find the spot to drill slide channel in and tilt it up as far as you can . i actually sliced a little bit[1 or 2 mm] off the plastic top edge so i could tilt channel up a tad more- to be exact same angle as original was set at

 
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I have read you don't need to drill the channel as the clips hold the rubber in

Just screw up tight to channel

 
id think if you dont drill itd be difficult to get the channel to hold at correct angle.

 
I have been using a 10inch and 14 inch and l am getting on ok with it. Rather than my usual fanning l have made a slight change to my technique. Although I do feel like l am watching every move l make with it. Every now and then l leave the odd smear when closing out. I think this is due to my angle. I have used the same technique for years now and every now and then I forget about adjusting my angle. I only purchased channels and l am currently using them in old steel handles. From your experiences does the new Liquidator handle make a difference getting the angle correct. Thanks all... Richard

 
I would try a moerman handle

Is more like a 40° angle on it

Also easier to close out with

Plus the fact it adjusts to 0° if needed

 
The photo is of a handle and disc that started out as a slimline PC. I actually straightened the handle to 20° and with the liquidator channels it works superbly. I have a feeling that handle angle isn't so critical with the Wag although bear in mind that the standard Wag handle is 40°. This effectively becomes 35° because of the slight tilt back of the Wag channels. I hate the screw so I gently heat the disc jaws and close up the lower one a touch. You can also bend the lower tips in a little. By doing this the disc is really firm on the channel. No movement. No screw required.View attachment 4339

 
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