pump dead end problem

[ks789]

Ah, just when you think everythings going fine. pump etc has been great for ages, then im at this job, and the pump/water flow keeps stopping for a few seconds, then starting/flowing again. Took pole to van and watched, it kept dead ending (blue light) and then coming back on a few seconds later. havent a clue what this might be. i know the battery was charged, and its a fairly new battery anyway. Not at all like the old airlock problems used to get. Wonder if anyone come across this before. Be great to hear, many thanks, kev.

 

[The window God]

Iv had a brand new 1 do this to me before it just kept coming up DE I ended up buying a new pump and haven't had a problem since... Touch wood 

 

[Nudel]

You might have to recalibrate your controller because the temperature have changed?

Could be a kink in a hose somewhere?

 

[ks789]

You might have to recalibrate your controller because the temperature have changed?

Could be a kink in a hose somewhere?

Yes will try, but ive noticed in the 2 years been going have never had to recalibrate as yet. i wonder, after how many hours of use do people suggest to recharge their leisure batteries? I think it had been going no more than 3 hours of actual use since last charge, but even then, it still says low on the smart charger.

 

[Jango]

Low on the charger after 3 hours, something isn’t right there. I charge mine every two days, so I get 16 hours out of it, I could get more but I don’t want to let battery get too low. It’s on a split charge relay, but I don’t do enough miles, so I manually charge it. 

 

[ks789]

Low on the charger after 3 hours, something isn’t right there. I charge mine every two days, so I get 16 hours out of it, I could get more but I don’t want to let battery get too low. It’s on a split charge relay, but I don’t do enough miles, so I manually charge it. 

yes i was surprised. i only bought the battery this year, maybe the charger always says low even after not much use? ive got it on charge now and it takes ages before it actually makes the noise like its charging. Im sure the issue isnt the battery though. if it is then i want a free replacement off them. 

yes its a proper pain though. its easy with a vehicle, just take to mechanic, but these set ups, no one really knows. even some of my mates who are very practical and good at electrics/plumbing etc but are stumped with these van wfp issues lol

 

[ks789]

yes i was surprised. i only bought the battery this year, maybe the charger always says low even after not much use? ive got it on charge now and it takes ages before it actually makes the noise like its charging. Im sure the issue isnt the battery though. if it is then i want a free replacement off them. 

yes its a proper pain though. its easy with a vehicle, just take to mechanic, but these set ups, no one really knows. even some of my mates who are very practical and good at electrics/plumbing etc but are stumped with these van wfp issues lol

Ah yeh, I think the charger always says that when first plug in, as its on 90% already after an hour, so must've been not far off full. Aint got a clue then. Will clean out the pump strainer in the morning but bet thats not the issue. And I will try callibrating it but like i say, never had to do that before as yet but will be chuffed if thats the problem.

 

[Lennie]

Ah, just when you think everythings going fine. pump etc has been great for ages, then im at this job, and the pump/water flow keeps stopping for a few seconds, then starting/flowing again. Took pole to van and watched, it kept dead ending (blue light) and then coming back on a few seconds later. havent a clue what this might be. i know the battery was charged, and its a fairly new battery anyway. Not at all like the old airlock problems used to get. Wonder if anyone come across this before. Be great to hear, many thanks, kev.

I had what seems like a similar problem a few months back.

Re calibrated quite a few times, didn’t sort it,

Tried a new univalve, didn’t sort it, 

turned out to be a faulty female ez snap connector. Took it out and don’t use them anymore and all is fine. 

You may not even use them, but if you do, worth a look. 

 

[ks789]

I had what seems like a similar problem a few months back.

Re calibrated quite a few times, didn’t sort it,

Tried a new univalve, didn’t sort it, 

turned out to be a faulty female ez snap connector. Took it out and don’t use them anymore and all is fine. 

You may not even use them, but if you do, worth a look. 

I changed from ez snap to slick connect but good advise, will check over any possibilities.

I changed from ez snap to slick connect but good advise, will check over any possibilities.

Funny enough I fitted the univalve not long back, and i did wonder if that could be an issue. I just have the standard gardiner pole hose which seems to work ok. Dont use it much as prefer to click on the one stop remote.

 

[ks789]

Just tried to callibrate it. flowed for a few seconds, same thing, then blue light (dead ended). so couldnt get to callibrate it. now is just red light, and nothing. Not even trying to pump. Cant see theres anything else to try. batterys fully charged etc, no kinks or leeks. Cleaned out the pump strainer, not many bits in it, few tiny specks of grit. Sucked on the hose. I dunno, really strange.

 

[Iron Giant]

How old is your controller and what make is it 

 

[ks789]

How old is your controller and what make is it 

its 2 years old, its from wintecs, analogue one, says easy on the casing but I presume its the same as the spring ones.

its 2 years old, its from wintecs, analogue one, says easy on the casing but I presume its the same as the spring ones.

Not heavy use mind, usually 2 days a week at present. shurflo pump the same.

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Hi KS the Red light showing means that the pump pressure switch has activated due to high pressure in the system.

This video link covers the analogue

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Th initial issue of the controller dead ending the pump as suggested above may be down to calibration. the Pump being cycled on and off suggests Cal may need to be adjusted. Also Miss aligned hose connectors, Valves not fully opening could be an issue.

Agree with above comment a good condition fully charged battery should last more than 3 hours. Low battery voltage would effect the pump as the battery is not able to maintain a constant current. Ideally the battery should not fall below 11.5, 11V at a push before being recharged. below 11V the battery is 60 to 70% discharged and will take a long time to recover. How often is it bench charged

This is a video showing Calibration for the analogue

 

[ks789]

2 hours ago, Ian Sheppard said:

Th initial issue of the controller dead ending the pump as suggested above may be down to calibration. the Pump being cycled on and off suggests Cal may need to be adjusted. Also Miss aligned hose connectors, Valves not fully opening could be an issue.

Agree with above comment a good condition fully charged battery should last more than 3 hours. Low battery voltage would effect the pump as the battery is not able to maintain a constant current. Ideally the battery should not fall below 11.5, 11V at a push before being recharged. below 11V the battery is 60 to 70% discharged and will take a long time to recover. How often is it bench charged

This is a video showing Calibration for the analogue

 battery is fine, just for some reason it says low on the charger when you initially put it on charge, I charge it about every day and halfs work. Am pretty carefuil with that.

Managed to get pump working in the end. took the diaphram bit off, but it was clean in there, seems like the connector going into the pressure switch bit isnt great. Surprised it started working again really, but dont trust it to keep ok. i looked at this utube video, Gillies i think his name was, and he says to avoid pressure swith trouble, dont use it, as long as youve got a decent controller. Just connect to that and forget the switch. Does that seem ok to do?

Much appreciation for all help

kev.

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Hi KS. A loose connection on the pump pressure switch means the pump drops out of circuit and the PS LED will light to show an electrical fault. Replacing the pump PS will also solve the issue longer term.

The controller will work ok with the pump pressure switch bypassed if you decide t do that

Cheers

Ian