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bigred

Pressure washing prices



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bigred

how you doing guys,

 

I live in Worcestershire area and was thinking of what would be exceptable to charge per 2m for cleaning block paving, paths and drives. I've seen people charge roughly £2.50 per 2m + £1 per 2m for sanding after. I've started getting some work in and just want to make sure I'm charging correctly!

 

Any thoughts

 

Joe.

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adamangler

I would probably take your pressure washer and clean an area and grab a stop watch. if you have somewhere at home you can clean that would be good.

measure the area, work at a steady pace and see how long it takes. Decide how much you want to make per hour and then work it out per square meter. factor in setup time and pack away time and you have a rough idea. On top of each quote factor in travel time then get out there and quote. You can always tweak it as you g along.

 

What anyone else charges isnt really relevant, you have to charge what you want per hour then if you start getting 100% of quotes up your prices, if no takers drop prices.

 

Also set a minimum charge.

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K in Kent

Alright Joe,

This may be of some help and their prices are about right for my part of the world - Kent/SE London...Driveway Cleaning and Sealing Costs

 

With the greatest respect to Adam I'd say what others charge is entirely relevant because if customers are getting more than 1 quote,as they often will,then they will be making their decision based on that. So you need to be sure you are competitive but not too cheap or too expensive. On that basis you have to know what the competition is doing to be sure you get the work and are paid appropriately. If you know the going rates you can price with confidence.

I think you are underselling yourself slightly. £2-£2.50 per sq m is generally regarded as a reasonable price for cleaning only,definitely for first 50sq m at least,then perhaps drop to £1.50 sq m for remaining area in excess of 50/sq m ,

 

What are u doing to stabilise sand or are u offering re-sanding only? I know some experienced contractors stay away from sealing ,but bear in mind if you're just going to fill the joints with standard kiln dried sand and leave it at that then after the next heavy rain that sand is going to be washed out of the joints and a sludgey mess all over their drive. You need to to stabilise - or harden - either by sealing or using the right kind of sand product - - Sika Setting Sand 20kg - Buff

 

I've sealed 100s of drives/patios especially block paving but also lots of sandstone,PIC and limestone as well as using colour enhancers when requested and never had a problem. It's just a case of understanding what to use on what surface and explaining to the customers what to expect.

Don't make unreasonable claims and guarantee no weeds.That isn't a guarantee u can make because whatever product u use will , if dirt is allowed to accumulate , attract weeds which will grow into that dirt. As u have no control over a customer's future maintenance , or lack of , then u can't guarantee what might happen. I just tell them that if they regularly sweep and wash down with soapy water or better still Jeyes or fungiciadal wash it should stay weed free. But if dirt/soil etc is allowed to build up weeds will inevitably follow.

Also u need to know what effects sealers may have and what the customer is looking for. If they want a matt/gloss effect = damp or wet look so be it. Use the right products and explain the costs involved.

But for a clear/invisible finish that stabilises sand and gives some protection my fave is Resiblock Trade RESIBLOCK Trade - Buy Trade All-Purpose Paving Sealer Direct Now. View RESIBLOCK Trade Product Details & Purchase Trade

 

Resiblock are the industry leaders,sell quality products,it dries clear,easy to apply with sprayer (or roller if u prefer but sprayer is easier),hardens sand very well and it is relatively cheap.It is also a ONE COAT system so not too time consuming. If u apply for Approved Contractor status u get 25% discount on all products.

I find sealing to be a service customers expect and are willing to pay for - within reason of course - and it's a great earner for me.

Just manage their expectations of what to expect and research best products for the surface...but u need to stabilise that sand one way or another.

Hope this helps.

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The window cleaning kid

Just brush in kiln dried if you don't want to get in too sealing, that's exactly what is used when the drive is laid so good enough there after.

When washing make sure you have the lance at an angle rather than pointing strate down between the joints.

Price for time sand travel and fuel for machine..

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K in Kent

Yes that's true,but it's now recognised that that in fact is not good enough.

a) at time of construction a vibrating plate is used which compacts the sand much more tightly/densely and so won't wash out quite so easily. Whereas brushing in means it's loose and more susceptible to movement.

b) despite compaction KDS will be displaced by water flow.weathering,cleaning etc and in recognition of this all modern commercial block paving construction always involves use of a sealant to 'glue' jointing sand together and prolong the life of the paving and its overall strength and effectiveness,i.e. is an integral part of the construction and maintaining its load bearing capabilities.

 

So just brushing it in would never be considered good enough for a commercial job because unless stabilised some way it just won't remain there very long. It's a statement of the obvious. ...brush in sand and then spray gently with a hose and see what happens

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windowsurfer
Alright Joe,

This may be of some help and their prices are about right for my part of the world - Kent/SE London...Driveway Cleaning and Sealing Costs

 

With the greatest respect to Adam I'd say what others charge is entirely relevant because if customers are getting more than 1 quote,as they often will,then they will be making their decision based on that. So you need to be sure you are competitive but not too cheap or too expensive. On that basis you have to know what the competition is doing to be sure you get the work and are paid appropriately. If you know the going rates you can price with confidence.

I think you are underselling yourself slightly. £2-£2.50 per sq m is generally regarded as a reasonable price for cleaning only,definitely for first 50sq m at least,then perhaps drop to £1.50 sq m for remaining area in excess of 50/sq m ,

 

What are u doing to stabilise sand or are u offering re-sanding only? I know some experienced contractors stay away from sealing ,but bear in mind if you're just going to fill the joints with standard kiln dried sand and leave it at that then after the next heavy rain that sand is going to be washed out of the joints and a sludgey mess all over their drive. You need to to stabilise - or harden - either by sealing or using the right kind of sand product - - Sika Setting Sand 20kg - Buff

 

I've sealed 100s of drives/patios especially block paving but also lots of sandstone,PIC and limestone as well as using colour enhancers when requested and never had a problem. It's just a case of understanding what to use on what surface and explaining to the customers what to expect.

Don't make unreasonable claims and guarantee no weeds.That isn't a guarantee u can make because whatever product u use will , if dirt is allowed to accumulate , attract weeds which will grow into that dirt. As u have no control over a customer's future maintenance , or lack of , then u can't guarantee what might happen. I just tell them that if they regularly sweep and wash down with soapy water or better still Jeyes or fungiciadal wash it should stay weed free. But if dirt/soil etc is allowed to build up weeds will inevitably follow.

Also u need to know what effects sealers may have and what the customer is looking for. If they want a matt/gloss effect = damp or wet look so be it. Use the right products and explain the costs involved.

But for a clear/invisible finish that stabilises sand and gives some protection my fave is Resiblock Trade RESIBLOCK Trade - Buy Trade All-Purpose Paving Sealer Direct Now. View RESIBLOCK Trade Product Details & Purchase Trade

 

Resiblock are the industry leaders,sell quality products,it dries clear,easy to apply with sprayer (or roller if u prefer but sprayer is easier),hardens sand very well and it is relatively cheap.It is also a ONE COAT system so not too time consuming. If u apply for Approved Contractor status u get 25% discount on all products.

I find sealing to be a service customers expect and are willing to pay for - within reason of course - and it's a great earner for me.

Just manage their expectations of what to expect and research best products for the surface...but u need to stabilise that sand one way or another.

Hope this helps.

Good info. I've been asked to clean small driveway, n didn't know about the jousting sand. Thank you.

 

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

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K in Kent
Good info. I've been asked to clean small driveway, n didn't know about the jousting sand. Thank you.

 

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

Thank you for saying so cos nice to know it's been of use.

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The window cleaning kid
Yes that's true,but it's now recognised that that in fact is not good enough.

a) at time of construction a vibrating plate is used which compacts the sand much more tightly/densely and so won't wash out quite so easily. Whereas brushing in means it's loose and more susceptible to movement.

b) despite compaction KDS will be displaced by water flow.weathering,cleaning etc and in recognition of this all modern commercial block paving construction always involves use of a sealant to 'glue' jointing sand together and prolong the life of the paving and its overall strength and effectiveness,i.e. is an integral part of the construction and maintaining its load bearing capabilities.

 

So just brushing it in would never be considered good enough for a commercial job because unless stabilised some way it just won't remain there very long. It's a statement of the obvious. ...brush in sand and then spray gently with a hose and see what happens

 

Over kill, your not blowing all the sand out are you, just the very top layer.

And yes I have laid Block drives for years, It's sand mate. Yes it will compress with a wacker plate but it's not concrete and yes the rain will wash it out but not to the point off destruction, next time your at the beach grab your self a bucket and spade, fill that bucket with sand compresse it down nice and tight, now drop a tiny little bit of water in that bucket and Wow look the sand has moved, it will happen any way.

Unless you live in the monsoon then would not worry.

 

If your doing a commercial job then what ever you have to do, but don't roll up and start quoting for special sand and crap to joe blogs who just wants his one space car port cleaned.

 

Think some one may have shares in certain sand and sealers what not.

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K in Kent

Oh dear oh dear....KID is about right. Are u not capable of being civil if u have a different opinion? And really throw your toys out of the pram by giving it a dislike too haha. No wonder u like the bucket and spade analogy. Did someone spoil your rusks this morning?

Let me make it clear: I was trying to help the guy and added the links for the sand and sealer as examples of the kind of things he should consider. The sand in particular was intended to show an easy to use alternative to sealing. I wasn't being rude to anyone or trying to score points,I was just trying to make him aware of other things to consider and ways to improve his service and maximise his profits. It doesn't matter to me what he does but he asked a question and I was trying to give him some useful information with examples.Is that so terrible?

 

I can't say as I've done any one space car ports,nor would I bother. But to use your example 1 20kg bag of Silka Sand would be more than enough and would add a massive extra TWELVE POUNDS - YES £12 !! to the bill,on top of price of KDS. And it'd be enough to do another one so works out even cheaper. Or use 5litres of Resiblock Trade and add £21 or works out about £16 if you're a Resiblock Approved Contractor as I am. Are u?

Thought not. And using a sprayer it would take 15 mins for that sort of size of area. It is excellent value for money and being a one coat system saves money and time as vast majority of sealers need 2 coats. I wasn't recommending their top of the range products which are nearly 3 times the price and use twice as much.That's serious money

So it's not about "rolling up and start quoting for special sand..." and if u know what you're talking about and explain the benefits then 99 times out of 100 customers would rather pay such a minimal amount extra if the joints stay full and it helps prevent weeds . That's what they want !

Or use sealer and provide some protection in case engine oil leaks and it can be cleaned away instead of spoiling the appearance of his gorgeous little car port.

In my experience customers want this additional service as they want to protect their investment and I find it very profitable and get more jobs because of it. As far as customers are concerned they are getting a proper,professional service

I was only trying to make Joe aware of this option.

 

I apologise to people reading this petty squabble but got to challenge few more bits.

When I mentioned commercial jobs I was referring to the industry in general. But on that subject I cleaned,re-sanded and sealed over 1,500 sq m of block paving last year in commercial and at least as much residential so do have some knowledge/experience.

Point I was making is that it is accepted FACT that KDS is lost if not sealed...or stabilised some way. So same applies to residential work. Simple as that.

I didn't say to the 'point of destruction' but ultimately that may happen. At first the visible KDS will go,the gap fills with dirt = weeds. As more rainwater falls it will seep through and wash away remainder and also can waterlog sand bed. In both cases if subject to vehicle traffic blocks will work loose. KDS creates friction which spreads weight over whole surface. No KDS means weight is concentrated onto individual blocks and works them loose or breaks them cos they are not designed to withstand that amount of weight. Then adjoining blocks are affected and if not remedied = failure of the structure or part of it. Fact.

 

Also KDS is totally different to the beach sand u make your sandcastles with. It is extremely fine and easily washed away. It bears no resemblance to sharp/builders/beach sand .

Finally, if experienced,knowledgeable professionals such as Green Pro Clean found my post informative and others, plus positive comments and likes then that's good enough for me.

I posted with the best will in the world . It's a pity u can't do the same.

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The window cleaning kid
Oh dear oh dear....KID is about right. Are u not capable of being civil if u have a different opinion? And really throw your toys out of the pram by giving it a dislike too haha. No wonder u like the bucket and spade analogy. Did someone spoil your rusks this morning?

Let me make it clear: I was trying to help the guy and added the links for the sand and sealer as examples of the kind of things he should consider. The sand in particular was intended to show an easy to use alternative to sealing. I wasn't being rude to anyone or trying to score points,I was just trying to make him aware of other things to consider and ways to improve his service and maximise his profits. It doesn't matter to me what he does but he asked a question and I was trying to give him some useful information with examples.Is that so terrible?

 

I can't say as I've done any one space car ports,nor would I bother. But to use your example 1 20kg bag of Silka Sand would be more than enough and would add a massive extra TWELVE POUNDS - YES £12 !! to the bill,on top of price of KDS. And it'd be enough to do another one so works out even cheaper. Or use 5litres of Resiblock Trade and add £21 or works out about £16 if you're a Resiblock Approved Contractor as I am. Are u?

Thought not. And using a sprayer it would take 15 mins for that sort of size of area. It is excellent value for money and being a one coat system saves money and time as vast majority of sealers need 2 coats. I wasn't recommending their top of the range products which are nearly 3 times the price and use twice as much.That's serious money

So it's not about "rolling up and start quoting for special sand..." and if u know what you're talking about and explain the benefits then 99 times out of 100 customers would rather pay such a minimal amount extra if the joints stay full and it helps prevent weeds . That's what they want !

Or use sealer and provide some protection in case engine oil leaks and it can be cleaned away instead of spoiling the appearance of his gorgeous little car port.

In my experience customers want this additional service as they want to protect their investment and I find it very profitable and get more jobs because of it. As far as customers are concerned they are getting a proper,professional service

I was only trying to make Joe aware of this option.

 

I apologise to people reading this petty squabble but got to challenge few more bits.

When I mentioned commercial jobs I was referring to the industry in general. But on that subject I cleaned,re-sanded and sealed over 1,500 sq m of block paving last year in commercial and at least as much residential so do have some knowledge/experience.

Point I was making is that it is accepted FACT that KDS is lost if not sealed...or stabilised some way. So same applies to residential work. Simple as that.

I didn't say to the 'point of destruction' but ultimately that may happen. At first the visible KDS will go,the gap fills with dirt = weeds. As more rainwater falls it will seep through and wash away remainder and also can waterlog sand bed. In both cases if subject to vehicle traffic blocks will work loose. KDS creates friction which spreads weight over whole surface. No KDS means weight is concentrated onto individual blocks and works them loose or breaks them cos they are not designed to withstand that amount of weight. Then adjoining blocks are affected and if not remedied = failure of the structure or part of it. Fact.

 

Also KDS is totally different to the beach sand u make your sandcastles with. It is extremely fine and easily washed away. It bears no resemblance to sharp/builders/beach sand .

Finally, if experienced,knowledgeable professionals such as Green Pro Clean found my post informative and others, plus positive comments and likes then that's good enough for me.

I posted with the best will in the world . It's a pity u can't do the same.

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The window cleaning kid

I do apologize if I upset you, this was not my intention :thumbsup: all the best

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johnny bravo

k in kent,

would you say a wacker plate will be better if just applying kiln sand, ebay usually have some , usually nicked

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bigred
k in kent,

would you say a wacker plate will be better if just applying kiln sand, ebay usually have some , usually nicked

Thanks a lot for all the replys, all very useful! Hope you all ha e plenty of work on

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Sefton window

what kind of price do you charge for sealing per sqm

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andy@alt
Alright Joe,

This may be of some help and their prices are about right for my part of the world - Kent/SE London...Driveway Cleaning and Sealing Costs

 

With the greatest respect to Adam I'd say what others charge is entirely relevant because if customers are getting more than 1 quote,as they often will,then they will be making their decision based on that. So you need to be sure you are competitive but not too cheap or too expensive. On that basis you have to know what the competition is doing to be sure you get the work and are paid appropriately. If you know the going rates you can price with confidence.

I think you are underselling yourself slightly. £2-£2.50 per sq m is generally regarded as a reasonable price for cleaning only,definitely for first 50sq m at least,then perhaps drop to £1.50 sq m for remaining area in excess of 50/sq m ,

 

What are u doing to stabilise sand or are u offering re-sanding only? I know some experienced contractors stay away from sealing ,but bear in mind if you're just going to fill the joints with standard kiln dried sand and leave it at that then after the next heavy rain that sand is going to be washed out of the joints and a sludgey mess all over their drive. You need to to stabilise - or harden - either by sealing or using the right kind of sand product - - Sika Setting Sand 20kg - Buff

 

I've sealed 100s of drives/patios especially block paving but also lots of sandstone,PIC and limestone as well as using colour enhancers when requested and never had a problem. It's just a case of understanding what to use on what surface and explaining to the customers what to expect.

Don't make unreasonable claims and guarantee no weeds.That isn't a guarantee u can make because whatever product u use will , if dirt is allowed to accumulate , attract weeds which will grow into that dirt. As u have no control over a customer's future maintenance , or lack of , then u can't guarantee what might happen. I just tell them that if they regularly sweep and wash down with soapy water or better still Jeyes or fungiciadal wash it should stay weed free. But if dirt/soil etc is allowed to build up weeds will inevitably follow.

Also u need to know what effects sealers may have and what the customer is looking for. If they want a matt/gloss effect = damp or wet look so be it. Use the right products and explain the costs involved.

But for a clear/invisible finish that stabilises sand and gives some protection my fave is Resiblock Trade RESIBLOCK Trade - Buy Trade All-Purpose Paving Sealer Direct Now. View RESIBLOCK Trade Product Details & Purchase Trade

 

Resiblock are the industry leaders,sell quality products,it dries clear,easy to apply with sprayer (or roller if u prefer but sprayer is easier),hardens sand very well and it is relatively cheap.It is also a ONE COAT system so not too time consuming. If u apply for Approved Contractor status u get 25% discount on all products.

I find sealing to be a service customers expect and are willing to pay for - within reason of course - and it's a great earner for me.

Just manage their expectations of what to expect and research best products for the surface...but u need to stabilise that sand one way or another.

Hope this helps.

 

K in Kent, would you advise the silka sand sealed with resiblock trade or would kiln dried sand and resiblock be ok? I have just added the pressure washing service to my company so I am doing as much research as I can before I undertake the first Job. Thanks in advance, Andy.

 

 

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Cristian

Maybe K in Kent could chime in, but I would recon around 50p per sqm for sealing?

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Green Pro Clean Ltd
Maybe K in Kent could chime in, but I would recon around 50p per sqm for sealing?

 

If you look at the post 'Imprinted concrete revival' the drive and patio in there were just shy of 200 sqm combined.

 

The sealers and everything else needed to do a decent job of sealing it came in at £243.00 (and I get trade discounts)

 

At 200sqm that's £1.21 per sqm

 

Took 3 hours of my time to pressure wash it. Took 8 hours to apply three coats of sealer.

 

I made a very healthy profit on the job (you all know I am not the cheapest around)

 

For a quality sealer you'd be lucky to find one that's less than £1 per sqm just for product.

 

Lastly, never assume that a drive will need just one coat of sealer, some will need 2 or 3 and sometimes more depending on condition and finish required. Only experience will teach you which.

 

Good luck.

 

BTW for block paving, cleaning and sealing I charge £6.50 per sqm. All my services are always priced by the meter or sqM. I have prices for worst case scenario and that's the price, if it's a real minger I have priced right, if it's not too bad then happy days for me. I have this pricing system now so all customers pay the same, I feel that's fairer. Regardless of postcode or car on the drive the price is the price so they always know what they can expect.

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Cristian

Thanks very much Mr Green for the very informative reply, I take it your all in price for block paving includes re sanding also?

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Green Pro Clean Ltd

Imprint prices include all cracks repaired. Flag stone, crazy paving etc prices, includes re-pointing. Not interested in doing part of the job. If they don't want it done right I aint interested in doing it.

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K in Kent
K in Kent, would you advise the silka sand sealed with resiblock trade or would kiln dried sand and resiblock be ok? I have just added the pressure washing service to my company so I am doing as much research as I can before I undertake the first Job. Thanks in advance, Andy.

 

 

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

 

Hello Andy,

Sorry only just seen your post. There's no need to seal products like silka because they set in situ with adding water.

The purpose of sealing block paving or using products like silka is to stabilise (harden) the jointing sand and protect it from erosion by rain / wind etc.

The sand itself is necessary to maintain paving strength and friction between blocks to spread weight of traffic. Without it blocks becone lose and/or break under weight of vehicles etc.

So it's a choice between self setting sand which can also have weed inbitors added to it like Dansand or sealing normal kiln dried sand with product like Resiblock Trade. There are obviously other brands and additional effects like wet look / gloss sheen but much more expensive and 2 coat systems - that's recommended by manufacturers anyway.

However,quality and effectiveness vary greatly. But for stabilising jointing sand I don't think there is anything better value for money than Resiblock Trade

If using sealant rather than silka the earning potential is greater as are its selling points i.e. the protective barrier it provides against stains,oil etc.

 

But yeah it is silka/dansand & co. on their own OR

kiln dried sand with sealer

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Cristian

Excellent info K in Kent ,,, if I could take ye out for a pint I would :D:thumbsup:

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K in Kent
Maybe K in Kent could chime in, but I would recon around 50p per sqm for sealing?

 

 

I agree completely with Pro Green who is spot on.

 

RE block paving as I've already mentioned I use Resiblock Trade which is a no frills,budget milti purpose paving sealer made by Europe's leading manufacturer. May sound like an advertisement but it's true. Look at their client list....Disneyland paris,Man Utd stadium,Waterloo Station,ports and airports worldwide etc etc.

True,they won't be using Trade on these jobs but shows their experise and reputation.

Cost of Trade for block paving,one coat = £1 per sq m approx.

Put another way one x 5 litres = £20-£25 (incl p+p) and covers approx 20 sq m at recommended application rate of approx 4 sqm /litre.

It is a one coat system and sprayable which is much MUCH easier and faster to apply than roller.

Spraying also leaves neater finish and no risk of picking up the sand and spreading over surface of the blocks as with roller.

 

I have never found a more effective stabilising product for that sort of cost.

A more well known alternative available in B&Q and Homebase etc is Thompsons (one coat) for about £28-30 ish. It is rubbish in comparison.

The only other product I know of that does a decent job for similar price to Trade is Screwfix No Nonsense Sealer which is about £12/5 litres but needs 2 coats so takes longer to apply. But as with many Screwfix products it does the job at very reasonable price and easy to get hold of.

 

I charge £6/sqm upto about 100 sqm and happy to knock it down for anything over that. That is actually pretty cheap compared to some local companies where £8-£9/sqm is commonplace - particularly the other top ranking sites on page 1 of Google. But invariably where customer is getting several quotes,specially bigger jobs, I will end up with it.

For me block paving is a fantastic earner eg 100 sqm = £600. I get 25% discount with Resiblock so sand and sealer = £100 max.

So 1 day cleaning and couple of hours the next day to sand /seal = £500 and time for another job that day.

£400-500 as a day rate I'm well happy with and don't consider myself cheap,just more competitive,very busy and earning good money..

 

I don't flatter myself into thinking it's my salesmanship or product knowledge that gets me the job.Yes u got to show the customer u know what u are talking about but ultimately their overriding concern is price.Simple as that.

I ONLY offer fixed price for block paving,re-sand,seal and clearly state that is with 1 coat of Trade.That way I know what the costs are time needed to do the work.

With other products and paving surfaces all that goes out of the window and u MUST use the correct product and explain costs to the customer and let them know what they are getting for the money.

Many products require 2 coats and have to be applied by roller or squeegee (don't even bother with that method). I did a 70-80 sqm block paving drive + 36sqm Indian Sandstone patio last week. The guy wanted Resiblock Superior Wet Look for blocks at £210 / 25 litres and 2 coats by roller and Resiblock Invisible sandstone Sealer at £99/5 litres. Everything had to be cut in round the edges by brush,then applied with rollers 1 per coat and 2 coats of the superior - I was there all day. Using Trade and including re-sanding I could've had it done in 2 to 2.5 hrs.

And even with my discount it cost him over £400 just for the sealants + sand and rollers= 450. Trade would've cost 100 max.

 

So the differences between products,prices and labour are considerable. As a general rule anything that involves 2 coats and rollers I charge £5 per sqm PLUS cost of sealer for clean/seal.

So that job worked out about 450 profit for 2 full days. But that's still decent money as far as I'm concerned.

I live in the real world and charge on that basis too and think 1000 / week is good money and anything above that is a bonus.

Forget a "I wouldn't get out of bed for less than ?" attitude cos u won't get the work. It's all well and good wanting a tenner a sq metre. We all want that...but we're not going to be very busy. It's about earning a decent living and pricing sensibly and doing a decent job.

 

But u need to understand the products available and what they can do and cost. I've used many different sealers at request of cistomers looking to save money and Resiblock really are in the premier league and their stuff lasts -but apart from Trade- it is pricey.

Other brands are cheaper but less effective or resiliant/long lasting. I've also never needed more than 2 coats of any Resiblock product for any paving type including PIC,limestone,sandstone and other natural stone,clay/concrete blocks.

But it's a decision for the cistomer.You can advise/recommend but I'll apply whatever they choose. I'm quite happy to pass on my 25% discount cos if I'm being paid fairly for applying it there's no need to rip people off....well the odd one deserves it maybe tbh.

But ultimately I don't actually care what product they want. It's not my problem. If they want me to use something new I'll research it first and use it. BUT I ensure I've either emailed them a proper written quote specifying products and application methods or just an email to that effect and that the products are THEIR choice.

I ask for confirmation email confirming agreement with that and have never had any grief or comeback, and don't leave them opportunity to try and get out of it or complain. I have had couple of customers moaning that one coat of Trade dries clear and they wanted a sheen (2 coats can achieve that but they didn't want to pay for it)...."oh it's invisible.I wanted bit of a damp look"...."Yes that is why quote says Resiblock Trade dries clear / invisible and does not affect the colour or sheen in any way unless using multiple coats".

The odd one will try it on so cover yourself.

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Cristian

I was well off with my 50p a sqm, hit me with a smelly fish:oops: but K in Kent you are a star! That is one informative post my friend thanks very much for sharing you knowledge with me and other forum members ,, very much appreciated,, :thumbsup: :D

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K in Kent
I was well off with my 50p a sqm, hit me with a smelly fish:oops: but K in Kent you are a star! That is one informative post my friend thanks very much for sharing you knowledge with me and other forum members ,, very much appreciated,, :thumbsup: :D

 

Thank you Cristian , that is very kind of u to say so. I'm only too happy to help - as are some of the other contributors on this forum.

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andy@alt
Hello Andy,

Sorry only just seen your post. There's no need to seal products like silka because they set in situ with adding water.

The purpose of sealing block paving or using products like silka is to stabilise (harden) the jointing sand and protect it from erosion by rain / wind etc.

The sand itself is necessary to maintain paving strength and friction between blocks to spread weight of traffic. Without it blocks becone lose and/or break under weight of vehicles etc.

So it's a choice between self setting sand which can also have weed inbitors added to it like Dansand or sealing normal kiln dried sand with product like Resiblock Trade. There are obviously other brands and additional effects like wet look / gloss sheen but much more expensive and 2 coat systems - that's recommended by manufacturers anyway.

However,quality and effectiveness vary greatly. But for stabilising jointing sand I don't think there is anything better value for money than Resiblock Trade

If using sealant rather than silka the earning potential is greater as are its selling points i.e. the protective barrier it provides against stains,oil etc.

 

But yeah it is silka/dansand & co. on their own OR

kiln dried sand with sealer

 

Thank you K in Kent, I have given the customer a quote for both options and explained the pros/cons of having the drives sealed or not. I noticed in another of your comments you prefer to apply the resiblock trade by sparaying, how best would you go about this? Can you get away with a watering can or do you need to use a pressure spraying bottle? Thanks again, Andy.

 

 

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K in Kent
Thank you K in Kent, I have given the customer a quote for both options and explained the pros/cons of having the drives sealed or not. I noticed in another of your comments you prefer to apply the resiblock trade by sparaying, how best would you go about this? Can you get away with a watering can or do you need to use a pressure spraying bottle? Thanks again, Andy.

 

 

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

No don't use a watering can. The coverage isn't so consistent and the drops hit the ground with more of a splat and you don't want to disturb the sand - and last thing u need is the sprinkler falling off!

Use a pump sprayer wirh viton seals like this Hozelock although you can get cheaper ones with larger capacity if u look around and Amazon is your best bet.This just meant as an example for you.... Hozelock Viton 7 Litre Industrial Sprayer (max fill* 5L): Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

These are meant for heavy duty chemicals and last longer. However,if it's just a one-off u will get away using a basic pump srayer for a tenner from Homebase etc. There have been times when I've forgotten my sprayer and realised on way to a job and if easier for me I've stopped and bought a cheap one rather than going home and they work fine - but won't last long cos they can't withstand the corrosive effect of sealers. But worth considering to start with and just clean it and pump through fresh water afterwards and u might get more use out of it.

Longer term though once the expense is justified get a decent one cos a cheap sprayer will pack up without warning

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