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After weeks of using the liquidator...

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Exactly how much shorter are you cutting it? like, picture?
Because yeah, I watched that polz video before I even got a liquidator. I cut mine ever so slightly shorter, but I don't have it hanging over. I suppose I've been reluctant to cut it too short, because you can't put it back on again, once it's cut, and I'm frightened of wasting a perfectly good blades...
The 14 inch when it arrived was just showing the blue if you looked from underneath, but I did realise afterward that the blue ends were scraping the frames sometimes, so I adopted Level cutting.

 
Exactly how much shorter are you cutting it? like, picture?
Because yeah, I watched that polz video before I even got a liquidator. I cut mine ever so slightly shorter, but I don't have it hanging over. I suppose I've been reluctant to cut it too short, because you can't put it back on again, once it's cut, and I'm frightened of wasting a perfectly good blades...
The point polzn bladz makes is that if you pull the rubber into the channel, position it and cut, it will shrink a little because it is held by the blue ends, as I discovered, so measure it out next to it, then cut. If you find that you have cut it too long when you've put it in, then it's easy enough to chop a bit off while it's still in (provided it has had time to shrink to normal size), then just cut it exactly to size.

 
I cut it in the channel but i also wet the rubber first and then push it in at both ends so it is not stretched

Not had any shrinkage problems

 
see when you been using the liquidator for few weeks and the blue clips get worn are you still getting zerro

detailing

you can see them wearing and i,m not using it a lot

 
I cut it in the channel but i also wet the rubber first and then push it in at both ends so it is not stretchedNot had any shrinkage problems
Yep, that's fair comment, mine were dry at the time. I haven't got round to trying hard rubbers yet, I imagine they won't shrink.

 
The blue clips don't wear on mine as the rubber is touching the frames

The only wear i have is where i have dropped it so many times lol

 
The point polzn bladz makes is that if you pull the rubber into the channel, position it and cut, it will shrink a little because it is held by the blue ends, as I discovered, so measure it out next to it, then cut. If you find that you have cut it too long when you've put it in, then it's easy enough to chop a bit off while it's still in (provided it has had time to shrink to normal size), then just cut it exactly to size.
Yeah, I've already had it exactly to size.

It was just that I have never had it shorter, or at least significantly shorter.

Having tried it today, it actually works just as well if not better when shorter (think 2 or 3mm each side). The only issue is wear on the clips really. It protects the rubber from damage from wooden frames. And it also makes it work better at divebombing type angles, if you know what I mean. It also makes it so that you could have the clips bent further back, since the overhanging plastic acts as a spacer/stopper guide (which traces the edge of the frames) so that the squeegee rubber doesn't jump over the window rubber seal. Oh, apart from the really 90 degree type seals of course (which even the merest of dog ear can do without issues)

Honestly though, I just can't get the liquidator channels to work as well as my home made dog eared. Even with the clips bent back, I'm still getting these lines at times

 
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I find on the fixed handles I get lines if I get sloppy and drop the angle. As soon as I see them I rip back over with the angle back where it should be. No issues. You really do need to be precise at all times on fixed handle. It is not forgiving. The good news is that it's just technique. Not a fault.

 
What, you mean with the squeegee held closer to the window?
Yes, I find with the 40° handles they need to line up almost perfectly parallel to the glass surface. The Unger Ergotech is 30° and I dislike using it with the Liquidator because it has to be higher than parallel and after a few windows the wrist and arm start mildly complaining.

 
Yes, I find with the 40° handles they need to line up almost perfectly parallel to the glass surface. The Unger Ergotech is 30° and I dislike using it with the Liquidator because it has to be higher than parallel and after a few windows the wrist and arm start mildly complaining.
But I'm not using a 40 degree angle handle at the moment. With the 40 degree, the lines are worse. When I hold closer to the window, it's better. With a 0 degree angle, I get no lines...

Weird...

Edit - hang on I think we're talking about the same thing. Sorry, can I just confirm: you think holding closer to the window = better?

 
But I'm not using a 40 degree angle handle at the moment. With the 40 degree, the lines are worse. When I hold closer to the window, it's better. With a 0 degree angle, I get no lines...
Weird...

Edit - hang on I think we're talking about the same thing. Sorry, can I just confirm: you think holding closer to the window = better?
Actually no. I find the opposite. How strange. ...and to add to the confusion my Wagtail handle at 20° is fine and I haven't had to alter my normal technique with that at all.

 
Actually no. I find the opposite. How strange. ...and to add to the confusion my Wagtail handle at 20° is fine and I haven't had to alter my normal technique with that at all.
20 degrees would be a perfect squeegee handle for me. I just has to be our different technique...

Does anyone know if you can get one which isn't a wagtail? I've already modded my contico hi-rise handle, by putting it in boiling water for a few minutes then bending, but they have an awful grip

 
20 degrees would be a perfect squeegee handle for me. I just has to be our different technique...
Does anyone know if you can get one which isn't a wagtail? I've already modded my contico hi-rise handle, by putting it in boiling water for a few minutes then bending, but they have an awful grip
whats a contico hi-rise look like? its a cool sounding name thats for sure

 
I find it better with handle close to the window & less pressure.

Takes some getting used to but I'm not there yet.

I still think my modded unger is just as good if not better.

 
I like my modded ones too but the good thing with the liquidator is a lot of people can't make a mod work like James when he had trouble doing it so they can buy an off the shelf channel to get the same effect

I can't comment on lines etc as i haven't had those problems but i think people who are used to modded tools will have less of an issue picking up the technique

 
Yes I had a few problem's getting my modded one right so I just waited for the liquidator to come out and I am fine with it . After a few days seeing what it liked and didn't know I am just trying a few different rubbers out on it .

Tried pulex and it works great

Now trying facelift red rubber and seems it needs to be broken in as it seems a very tough rubber

 
I find on the fixed handles I get lines if I get sloppy and drop the angle. As soon as I see them I rip back over with the angle back where it should be. No issues. You really do need to be precise at all times on fixed handle. It is not forgiving. The good news is that it's just technique. Not a fault.
Do you mean the angle of the squeegee rubber as it starts cutting down the water or the handle angle from the window. I have problems leaving lines but found if I have the rubber going across the window at 45° with front end up it cuts down the lines.......now I leave residue on window.

 
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