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Changing resin/TDS

WCF

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I do yeah, I’ve got an old ionics system in the van. I changed my resin around 5-6 weeks ago but noticed the TDS creeping back up now. 
i flush the system every week. The guy I bought the van off said the filters were changed under a year ago I think
Pre-filters last weeks to months depending on how bad or good quality they are so that's your first issue second is that if the pre-filters have been used for 6 months plus then they will be knackered and the membrane will be effected, so pre-filters needing changing asap and most likely the membrane as well, I just have a standard R/O not a 40/40 which I guess yours will be, I flush my system for a few minutes everyday after production.

On your system you should have 2 pre-filters 1st is a sediment filter and the 2nd is a carbon filter then that feeds to your membrane in the silver housing.

 
Pre-filters last weeks to months depending on how bad or good quality they are so that's your first issue second is that if the pre-filters have been used for 6 months plus then they will be knackered and the membrane will be effected, so pre-filters needing changing asap and most likely the membrane as well, I just have a standard R/O not a 40/40 which I guess yours will be, I flush my system for a few minutes everyday after production.

On your system you should have 2 pre-filters 1st is a sediment filter and the 2nd is a carbon filter then that feeds to your membrane in the silver housing.
Thanks for that. I’m going to test the pre di Tds today but sounds like the filters are knackered. I believe the previous owner got them from ionics so hopefully decent quality. 
what’s the rough cost for some filters and membrane?

 
Have you checked the riser pick up tube is seated correctly and you've got a clean rubber neck seal on your DI 
Looking at the photo and other posts later he has an Ionics system. They use those very expensive resin cartridges that lock into the side of the tank frame.

Its not the DI vessel that us plebs use. ?

 
Looking at the photo and other posts later he has an Ionics system. They use those very expensive resin cartridges that lock into the side of the tank frame.

Its not the DI vessel that us plebs use. ?
I hope not. This is a pretty old pure 2o system which I think is ionics budget range. So I’m hoping it falls within pleb pricing!

5C195B5E-114F-4C4F-819D-7EF67659AEA5.jpeg

 
I hope not. This is a pretty old pure 2o system which I think is ionics budget range. So I’m hoping it falls within pleb pricing!

View attachment 22533
I class myself as a pleb. ? And thankfully you haven't got those Ionics resin tubes.

You will need to replace those prefilters anyway but as @Part Timersays you need to see how your membrane is performing as you might have to replace that as well.

We have your tap tds as 240 so you need the tds after membrane but before di.

Best places for filters. Grippatank, GAPS Water, Daqua.

Personally I use Fiberdyne carbon block and Spectrum sediment filters. Fiberdyne are more expensive but do last long.

 
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Thanks Chaps, I ran out of time today thanks to the wife nagging me to do other jobs. I'll check the pre DI TDS in the morning and report back here for your advise. thanks for the help so far.

I wonder what's going on with he filters then..have I abused them or are they just knackered.

I've emailed ionics for the user guide but as mentioned my process is open the waste valve (black stop **** type wheel) a tiny bit on each fill and then once a week open it fully 20 mins for a flush. Is this the correct procedure?

 
waste valve (black stop **** type wheel) a tiny bit on each fill and then once a week open it fully 20 mins for a flush
The waste valve should be set so you have about 40% pure to 60% waste water. The flush - tap fully open should be say 5 mins each time you start processing. That way the membrane shouldn't clog too quickly.

 
Thanks Chaps, I ran out of time today thanks to the wife nagging me to do other jobs. I'll check the pre DI TDS in the morning and report back here for your advise. thanks for the help so far.

I wonder what's going on with he filters then..have I abused them or are they just knackered.

I've emailed ionics for the user guide but as mentioned my process is open the waste valve (black stop **** type wheel) a tiny bit on each fill and then once a week open it fully 20 mins for a flush. Is this the correct procedure?
The prefilters only have a limited life span.

The sediment filter will slowly become clogged with sediment it filters from the water. I might last a day, it might last a month, it all depends on the state of your water. These days my sediment filter is changed at the same time my carbon block filter is changed. At one time our water was terrible and I was replacing a sediment filter every month. The sediment filter's job is to protect the membrane.

We've mentioned this many times on the forum. Some agree and others don't. I doesn't mean either are wrong.

I prefer 20" prefilters because they last longer. It looks from that you have 10" housings. If the filters are 10" then that's what you have.

A carbon block filter removes chlorine from the water. Chlorine destroys membranes. This is why its important to replace this filter regularly. The manufacturers of the carbon filter will usually give a service life of the filter they sell. Some have a service life of 6000 liters, others 10,000 liters and a Fiberdyne some 38,000 liters. This quoted service life is waste and pure water combined - the total amount of water going through your r/o.

For me, my 20" Fiberdyne filter needs replacing everyday 3 to 4 months (about 76,000 liters), depending on our water usage. Sticking to this schedule means my membrane is still removing 97% of the dissolved solids in my water even although its 7 years old. I have a water meter on my r/o inlet pipe to measure the amount of water my r/o is processing.

What is the service life of the filter based on? This is from the Fiberdyne spec sheet. "Estimated capacity using 2 ppm free available chlorine at 0.5 ppm breakthrough." I have no idea what that means with regard to my water. One of the suppliers stated recently that days could go past where household tap water contained no free chlorine at all. If that applies to my tap water then maybe my filters will last longer, I don't know. But what I do know is that the first r/o I purchased was a used one which was a year old. The first owner changed the prefilters for me; the first change since he first got the r/o. Not long afterwards I had to replace the membranes. I replaced the prefilters every 3 months with that r/o and the replacement membranes lasted 6 years. Read into that what you may.

 
Thanks for all the help so far. My pre resin TDS is 34. Does this suggest my filters need changing? How do I know if I should change the membrane too?

heres a better look at the filters too

thanks 

D4AD0D91-7868-4A3D-B1C6-9F33304FF590.jpeg

 
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Your first pre-filter could be just a cheap carbon filter and to me it looks fouled up, the sediment filter needs changing as they start off as white in colour, always best to change both pre-filters at the same time, I would recommend these Pentek CFB-PLUS10 Fibredyne and Sediment Filter from https://daqua.co.uk/combofilter.htm @Part Timer or @spruce will advise on the performance of your membrane and if it requires changing as well

 
@Cris78 important thing to know is tap pressure from your tap if you aren't using a booster pump, it may be that you have sufficient pressure this will be needed to know more so if Doug is to advise you accordingly on the best membrane, you can get a water pressure gauge from ScrewFix

 

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