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Finger block paving

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I was on a short training course for reinstating (making good) block paving years ago when we were fitting water meters. We were told to use kiln-dried sand brushed into the joints and vibrated in, if I remember correctly. Things might well be different now.
That was certainly the case years ago, but not the case now I am guessing it's an extra no one wants to bother with but surely this would ensure that the sand gets right down

 
That was the purpose. But of course the reality was more often than not less than ideal.

It's one thing to have kiln~dried sand which is very free running. But of course it's not always dry working conditions so the sand would get damp from the pavier blocks or weather. The slightest bit of which would make the sand much less free~running. We were always under time pressures to get to the next job.

 
I used the gravel from b&q  £5 a bag potting gravel worked a treat and looks spot on now customer happy with it my battery leaf blower blew off the excess no trouble at all i recken ide have used 4 bags of sand on that if i sanded it so saved a few quid there 

 
I went to the garden centre today looking for horticultural grit. This what I came up with. Both were of the 2-6mm size range. Pretty cheap too.

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To be clear. Grit is not for use with ordinary block paving, where kiln dried sand should be used, but for blocks with spacer nibs that help create wider-than-normal joints for the water to pass through.

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