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First Bash at WFP a success

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As you are using a Gardiners brush search for Clarkes 1mm welding tips on http://ww.ebay.co.uk these fit easily and repalce the fitted jets and will give a more powerful rinse at a lower flow rate I have my backpack on less than half. A higher a flow rate will  have a adverse affect in some cases its about finding the right balance .


I use a 3.2lpm sprayer (same internals as Gardiner's V3 but only 12ltr capacity) for doing curtain small jobs and up until recently wouldn't have wanted to use it for anything else as it takes too long to achieve a good result.  Maybe this has been the reason.  The standard 2mm jets are too big.

I have also just discovered that Gardiner's new 100 degree wide fan jets work really well on lower flow as well.  I only use fans now and they work really well with the sprayer/backpack.

I take your point as well that sometimes too high a flow can have an adverse effect on a rinse as the water can bounce off the glass rather than run down it, especially on hydrophobic glass, and you have to find the right balance.  I'd add that the right balance will probably vary from kit to kit.

 
So been at it again today.  Slightly better results but still getting runs.  Am going to experiment on previous advice to try and get the right balance.  Just wondered on regular cleans, can you just run the damp brush over the frames without using any water? Would that not reduce the risk of a run down?

 
I use a 3.2lpm sprayer (same internals as Gardiner's V3 but only 12ltr capacity) for doing curtain small jobs and up until recently wouldn't have wanted to use it for anything else as it takes too long to achieve a good result.  Maybe this has been the reason.  The standard 2mm jets are too big.

I have also just discovered that Gardiner's new 100 degree wide fan jets work really well on lower flow as well.  I only use fans now and they work really well with the sprayer/backpack.

I take your point as well that sometimes too high a flow can have an adverse effect on a rinse as the water can bounce off the glass rather than run down it, especially on hydrophobic glass, and you have to find the right balance.  I'd add that the right balance will probably vary from kit to kit.
I switched to welding tips over 7 years ago whilst using a PF trolley and have sinced tried normal jets and slow flow rate is appalling.I can't work out how anyone can use them.

 
So been at it again today.  Slightly better results but still getting runs.  Am going to experiment on previous advice to try and get the right balance.  Just wondered on regular cleans, can you just run the damp brush over the frames without using any water? Would that not reduce the risk of a run down?
Yes you could but all depends on what type of service you want to offer damp brush is only half a job, And by not giving frames a thorough clean you could get dirty runs every time if you were to squirt water onto the top of the dirty frames whilst doing a regular clean. 

You are no doubt feeling a bit deflated and surprised and just how much water certain jobs can take I think most assume we use very little water on regular cleans as us longterm wfper's appear quick but as with all things its time and experience and problem windows take some sussing out and quite a bit of water.

I clean across a number of developing housing estates and on main roads in my area so know about the pitfalls of a non thorough clean and no doubt use a lot more water than some lads cleaning 20-25 jobs a day and using over 300ltrs of water a day. 

 
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So been at it again today.  Slightly better results but still getting runs.  Am going to experiment on previous advice to try and get the right balance.  Just wondered on regular cleans, can you just run the damp brush over the frames without using any water? Would that not reduce the risk of a run down?
try doing top of frames, then sides, bottom & sill 1st, then do the glass. After 1st clean wfp you won't have 90% of the issues you have now as they won't really be that dirty, and you will have built confidence with it. 1st cleans after conversions are basically the same as a first clean, as you get bits you may have unintentionally missed tradding, and your stripping off the thin film of soap that gets left behind by the squeegee.

 
Been at it again today and much better results.  Cleaned all the upstairs frames first then went and did trad downstairs then went back later and cleaned glass wfp. Came up spotless so am well chuffed and the customer was happy.  Thanks for all the advice, its been invaluable.

Just a question that's come up from today.  I don't seem to get the upstairs sill completely clean.  There's bita left over.  The water is splashing bits out from that recess in the sill i think.  Whats the best way to get a clean swipe?  Turn off the water and as the last action on a window, wipe the sill with the damp brush?

 
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Been at it again today and much better results.  Cleaned all the upstairs frames first then went and did trad downstairs then went back later and cleaned glass wfp. Came up spotless so am well chuffed and the customer was happy.  Thanks for all the advice, its been invaluable.

Just a question that's come up from today.  I don't seem to get the upstairs sill completely clean.  There's bita left over.  The water is splashing bits out from that recess in the sill i think.  Whats the best way to get a clean swipe?  Turn off the water and as the last action on a window, wipe the sill with the damp brush?
You could, but tbh after 1-2 cleans its all gone, if anyone says anything just explain it occasionally happens but its only temporary

 
The best thing to do is on a first clean flush all the **** out properly. Then on a maintenance clean yes scrub twice with water on. Lift brush off click it dry then once across. Upstairs sills will always be a bit of a guess as you can really see what you are doing. 

What you have experienced with first cleans and runs is normal. First cleans take twice as long. You really need to dry the top frames off before hoping to the glass.

On regular clean I don't really clean top frames and seals everytime. Only when required.

 
uni valve on wfp whilst connected to hise reel all good..but I also have a Gardiner back pack and the motor in it does not sound good when you shut water off with uni valve..doesnt seem to like it .back packs virtually brand new but prolonged use with uni valve id be bit concerned it would pack the motor up.

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uni valve on wfp whilst connected to hise reel all good..but I also have a Gardiner back pack and the motor in it does not sound good when you shut water off with uni valve..doesnt seem to like it .back packs virtually brand new but prolonged use with uni valve id be bit concerned it would pack the motor up.

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Id like to know if this can cause a problem too. Anyone out there know?

 
if it sounds like a stuttering when you turn the univalve then that is perfectly normal.

the power is still switched on, the pump is still trying to work but is then hitting the univalve that is then sending the pressure back to the pump.

 
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That is the whole point of the pressure switch on the pump

Perfectly fine with a univalve

 
When I changed to WFP on the first clean I did every house twice....front, backs, next house fronts, backs, then back to first house and same again and good rinse both times...seemed to work for me no spotting or anything...was a balls ache though.

 
I used to mess about cleaning twice etc

Now i have it sussed

Get some thick bleach from sainsbury for a quid @Adams0211 will agree with me on this one as i showed him and now he uses it too

Put an inch or so in a spray bottle with a tiny spot of dish soap and fill with pure

Don't make it any stronger as no need and once you start using it 50:50 with water it will stain upvc like hypo does (will turn back white within a short while anyway)

Spray the brush and rub it all over the top windows and spray the bottoms all over while you are at it

Scrub the top frames and above and rinse until all the black muck stops and the water runs off pure

Scrub the window and rest of the frame really well only turning the water on long enough to keep the glass wet and foamy

Turn the water on and clean just like a maintenance clean and rinse well

Job done

No 2nd clean for each window

All soap and dirt etc off the frames and rubber seals

Then give the sill a good scrub which will be easier as it has had the bleachy water sitting on it

Then same with bottoms which have had a good soak by then

An average 3 bed house i will probably take around 5 minutes longer than a maintenance clean

 
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Thats the concoction i now use for all Upvc

Bit of bleach, bit of washing up liquid and a bit of all purpose cleaner and water in a spray bottle

 
I started using it with just enough soap to make bubbles as i find it rinses easier than anything else added

Rinses off with a normal rinse unlike ubik etc which you have to make sure you rinse extra thourougly or have the risk of spotting

I know that i could scrub the whole lot (opener and window beneath etc) and it will be that clean i could rinse it all in 1 go and not worry about spots on the window from the opener above as there is no dirt whatsoever to drip only pure water

 
I started using it with just enough soap to make bubbles as i find it rinses easier than anything else added

Rinses off with a normal rinse unlike ubik etc which you have to make sure you rinse extra thourougly or have the risk of spotting

I know that i could scrub the whole lot (opener and window beneath etc) and it will be that clean i could rinse it all in 1 go and not worry about spots on the window from the opener above as there is no dirt whatsoever to drip only pure water
Just don’t do what I did today and go into a day dream and overdo it on the soap. I ended up spending more time rinsing the soap off than I did actually cleaning a glass roof. 

 
 Just one point from earlier about open windows. Be careful with windows that tilt back opening inwards. There's no way to shut them from the ground. They have a drain in the channel beneath the window so it doesn't fill up with rain water and come inside. It usually can't handle the amount of water that runs into it while cleaning it with wfp and may overflow inside. If I have to do them, I'm very fast with water turned down.

 
 Just one point from earlier about open windows. Be careful with windows that tilt back opening inwards. There's no way to shut them from the ground. They have a drain in the channel beneath the window so it doesn't fill up with rain water and come inside. It usually can't handle the amount of water that runs into it while cleaning it with wfp and may overflow inside. If I have to do them, I'm very fast with water turned down.
Thanks for the tip mate, that's noted.   :1f44d:

 
I used to mess about cleaning twice etc

Now i have it sussed

Get some thick bleach from sainsbury for a quid @Adams0211 will agree with me on this one as i showed him and now he uses it too

Put an inch or so in a spray bottle with a tiny spot of dish soap and fill with pure

Don't make it any stronger as no need and once you start using it 50:50 with water it will stain upvc like hypo does (will turn back white within a short while anyway)

Spray the brush and rub it all over the top windows and spray the bottoms all over while you are at it

Scrub the top frames and above and rinse until all the black muck stops and the water runs off pure

Scrub the window and rest of the frame really well only turning the water on long enough to keep the glass wet and foamy

Turn the water on and clean just like a maintenance clean and rinse well

Job done

No 2nd clean for each window

All soap and dirt etc off the frames and rubber seals

Then give the sill a good scrub which will be easier as it has had the bleachy water sitting on it

Then same with bottoms which have had a good soak by then

An average 3 bed house i will probably take around 5 minutes longer than a maintenance clean
Like to see a vid on that if you had time?

 
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