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First Clean Methods

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One of the things we forget as window cleaners is that it takes time to build a business and as others have said, that is built on customer trust @BWC.

We charge extra for the initial clean for 2 reasons;

1. Its takes longer.

2. The customer may only want a one off clean but disguising it as a regular clean request..

So when that very nice lady says after the clean that she will phone you when she wants them cleaned again, then you can walk away knowing that she hasn't totally caught you for a sucker. You were prepared for this.

We take our time on the first clean and ensure that the job is right (no streaks left on any windows). We also explain that window frame restoration isn't what we do but we clean frames as part of the service.

If you see black streaks down the frames from weathered window seals then you need to ensure the customer understands that this isn't something you can fix.

This house you are going to clean tomorrow has sash windows. My advice is start at the top. Do the top half of the window and frame first. I would also clean under the center meeting rail.and let them drip down. Work around the house and then come back and do the bottom glass, frame, inner sliders and cill. Then do the lower windows the same way.

As @Pjj says, speed will come later. IMHO first cleans aren't the time to show off your cleaning speed skills. That customer needs to see they are getting value for money. For some strange reason, a customer sees value and price as the same thing.
Thank you for this brilliant information @spruce I haven’t come across this sort of window before and you’ve probably just saved me hours! 

 
Hi everyone. 

I’m wondering what the best method would be to do a first clean. 

My current method is -

I jet rinse the windows, frames, sills with a garden hose to get rid of any dirt, webs etc. I then use UBIK in a spray bottle on the ground floor frames and sills, spraying it onto the brush for the first floor windows. I then rinse that off with the hose pipe and finish them all off with pure water.

For the application and agitation of the UBIK I use a different brush - usually a Gardiner universal sill brush (not on leaded) and keep my regular sill brush for the pure water after. 

This takes quite a bit of time, but the end results are perfect. 

The reason I use the garden hose is pure water is at a premium, I use a Gardiner backpack and carry 25l drums in the 4x4 so I don’t want to waste it. I don’t produce my own, I have to travel to a spotless water site. 

I also change brushes so I don’t get the pure water brush covered in UBIK and leave spots.

Any suggestions or advice on a quicker/better method? 
Why don’t you connect the garden hose to your pole? Agitate and pre rinse in one go? It’s looks a bit more professional using your pole to clean rather than standing there spraying the windows with a garden hose. 

 
That's the sign of experience, only problems you will encounter is from vents.
I don't have an issue with vents, give them a good rinse out on a first clean till the water run's clear job done and maintain the cleanliness moving forward, as I have mentioned a few times in the past a lot of my work has been and still is on developing new build estates, were regular cleans are or can be like first cleans quite often, like everything it all comes with practice and experience 

 
I use a Gardiner backpack and carry 25l drums in the 4x4 so I don’t want to waste it. I don’t produce my own, I have to travel to a spotless water site. 
If you are using a pick-up it would be very easy moving forward to put a 400ltr flat tank in and pump-box, the pic below is how I used to work, when I had L200's 

20160917_085658.jpg

 
You can smell the enthusiasm of a newbie ? Just wait until you've been doing it for 5 years, your shoulders aching, it's freezing cold and you've got a minging first clean to do ?
Oops! I'm nearly six years in.?

I still smell! Mostly of enthusiasm I hope.?

Funny enough, I quite like working in the cold generally, less so when it's really bitter or wet of course. 

Theres two smells of a newby : enthusiasm and fear, or there were in my case. If you can work in a friendly two man team it makes such a difference to moral. It does for me and my son anyway. I know of two other two man teams, unrelated buddies  who are very happy and successful.

I mostly look forward to going to work, though I'm not a lover of getting up in the morning. ☺️

 
One of the things we forget as window cleaners is that it takes time to build a business and as others have said, that is built on customer trust @BWC.

We charge extra for the initial clean for 2 reasons;

1. Its takes longer.

2. The customer may only want a one off clean but disguising it as a regular clean request..

So when that very nice lady says after the clean that she will phone you when she wants them cleaned again, then you can walk away knowing that she hasn't totally caught you for a sucker. You were prepared for this.

We take our time on the first clean and ensure that the job is right (no streaks left on any windows). We also explain that window frame restoration isn't what we do but we clean frames as part of the service.

If you see black streaks down the frames from weathered window seals then you need to ensure the customer understands that this isn't something you can fix.

This house you are going to clean tomorrow has sash windows. My advice is start at the top. Do the top half of the window and frame first. I would also clean under the center meeting rail.and let them drip down. Work around the house and then come back and do the bottom glass, frame, inner sliders and cill. Then do the lower windows the same way.

As @Pjj says, speed will come later. IMHO first cleans aren't the time to show off your cleaning speed skills. That customer needs to see they are getting value for money. For some strange reason, a customer sees value and price as the same thing.
Very well put, all of it. ?

 
My glass has some Hardwater (Limescale) marks running down them. I am going to try Viakal on it to see how it comes up. Ordered 10 litres of white vinegar from Amazon for a tenner to try that also.

 
My glass has some Hardwater (Limescale) marks running down them. I am going to try Viakal on it to see how it comes up. Ordered 10 litres of white vinegar from Amazon for a tenner to try that also.
I've used Viakal for limescale before. It shifted it. I sprayed it on, rubbed it in with the brush and left it while I did the other windows. It makes a bit of a mess on the brush but it soon washes out while you're working. You might need to do it a couple of times to get all the limescale out. 

 
I've used Viakal for limescale before. It shifted it. I sprayed it on, rubbed it in with the brush and left it while I did the other windows. It makes a bit of a mess on the brush but it soon washes out while you're working. You might need to do it a couple of times to get all the limescale out. 
Aye, had to do it twice on mine and still some bits and pieces. I was wondering if white vinegar is better so I bought some to try it out. If it works then i will do my whole house.

 
My glass has some Hardwater (Limescale) marks running down them. I am going to try Viakal on it to see how it comes up. Ordered 10 litres of white vinegar from Amazon for a tenner to try that also.
Ive got a customer where limescale water has baked on, (tap 530 tds) They keep watering their plants near the glass there  and it splashes on the glass and bakes on in the sun, so I just leave it there. If they want it to stay clear i told them no tap water on glass.

 
We did try and forewarn you, those sash windows can be a nightmare.
I trad nearly all my wooden sash windows because I think the pure adds to the rotting process. My customers have paid a grand each for them because its a listed building. I have to use the ladder anyway to reach some parts and clear the gutter outlets because of the trees that surround it.

 
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