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Installing a diesel heater (Doblo/Combo LWB)

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con95a

Well-known member
Messages
130
Location
Midlands
I've tried to take pictures as I've gone through the process so that it may be useful to someone else with the same van. I am a novice at this so I've learnt a lot I would do differently as I've gone.

Due to the limited space in the back of the van and also the limited space underneath that's free of chassis rails and other obstructions, the only space I could find to work for me was what would be the passenger footwell. In the cargo version the load area goes straight across so cutting out a section of the load area reveals a decent cavity where the heater will fit.

Remove the plastic trim (approx 10 screws)
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Remove the plastic support underneath (4 screws)
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You'll now see a hole which you can see the cavity space through
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This is the cavity / footwell space. Taking out the rubber grommet helps you locate precisely where underneath the van.

to be continued...
 
I cut out a section of the load area, which I will board over when completed
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The diesel heaters are often mounted on a turret which simplifies installation, the turret would just about fit underneath between the van fuel lines and some body rail / moulding
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It's probably worth buying the correct size hole saw (127mm) I wish I had, instead I struggled with a multi tool.
When fitting the turret I read it's good to seal it with a heat resistant silicone. This ensures any exhaust gasses that leak don't find there way back in the vehicle.

To be continued...
 
Next thing was fuel supply. I wanted to be connected to the main van fuel tank so that I didn't have to have a secondary fuel tank that needed filling.

In the combo/doblo there's an access hatch above the fuel tank so that the tank doesn't need to be dropped. It was directly under my water tank so that first had to be unbolted and moved. Two of the nuts had rusted solid on the bolts so they had to be chopped off with a grinder. (I've learnt the need to do something to prevent that problem in future so tank removal is more straightforward)

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It's worth cleaning the top of the fuel sender so that there's as little as possible that could find it's way into the fuel tank on removal.
A picture to make sure everything goes back as it should is a good idea, though I don't think the two connections would be interchangeable.

To be continued...
 
There's a locking ring around the fuel sender. There is a tool that can be bought to use with a ratchet, however a flathead screwdriver and some gentle knocks with a hammer can do the trick. Knock it counter clockwise to loosen.

Blue sealing washer stayed in place for me, but it may come off with the fuel sender.
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With a fuel standpipe kit you can now add the feed for the diesel heater.
Drill a hole the correct size for the standpipe you have, making sure it's location doesn't affect anything else.
With mine the washer stayed on top and it's secured with a locknut underneath.
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Make sure the standpipe is cut so that it doesn't reach the bottom of the fuel tank. This will prevent it sucking up any debris and also not allow the diesel heater to run the tank empty.

Reassemble as it was found, making sure the fuel pipes face the correct direction. It's worth cleaning the threads on the locking ring and lubricating them with some silicone to make it easier to reassemble. The threads are plastic so don't force it otherwise they could cross thread.

Finished ready to supply the heater
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To be continued...
 
Then the combustion intake, exhaust pipe/silencer and fuel supply need to be installed. There's lots of videos on YouTube covering this so I won't detail it step by step, but here are the pictures of what I was able to come up with. I can't promise it's the ideal set up as I've not done it before and I found there wasn't a lot of space to work with.

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Combustion intake
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Exhaust run
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Fuel from tank to fuel filter to fuel pump (I followed the path of the van fuel lines)
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That's where I'm up to for now. I've tested and it's all working happily. Now need to run the cables and the ducting.

Hope that's of help or just some interest. Any questions and I'll do my best to answer πŸ‘πŸΌ
 
i have mine in the footwell too, it was the only viable "out of the way" place to install one.
things i have observed over the years, remove that tatty paper air intake and fit a suitable rubber coolant hose, that won't go soggy and fall away when the roads get wet, do away with the silencer as these heaters are so quiet anyway, if you do keep the silencer then drill a couple of holes in the bottom section to drain the moisture/water away.
if you don't and that hose or silencer freezes up it will not start and you'll be fault finding for days until it warms up.
point the exhaust hose downwards all the way and keep every intake and exhaust hose as short as possible to remove water-as above comment, forget thinking about ducting,-don't even go there, that's for camper vans not a work van that needs to be kept above freezing overnight.
if you have time research newtons law on cooling whilst, its not exact- it is over 200 years old after all,it will give an understanding how heat and/or lack of it works and then, work it back to how it works with a little bit of heat, the lightbulb moments should then hit???????.
hope this helps.
 
That's where I'm up to for now. I've tested and it's all working happily. Now need to run the cables and the ducting.

Hope that's of help or just some interest. Any questions and I'll do my best to answer πŸ‘πŸΌ
You don’t want the pick up pipe to the bottom of tank only 3/4 of the way down or you run the risk of running out of fuel for the engine whilst working
 
i have mine in the footwell too, it was the only viable "out of the way" place to install one.
things i have observed over the years, remove that tatty paper air intake and fit a suitable rubber coolant hose, that won't go soggy and fall away when the roads get wet, do away with the silencer as these heaters are so quiet anyway, if you do keep the silencer then drill a couple of holes in the bottom section to drain the moisture/water away.
if you don't and that hose or silencer freezes up it will not start and you'll be fault finding for days until it warms up.
point the exhaust hose downwards all the way and keep every intake and exhaust hose as short as possible to remove water-as above comment, forget thinking about ducting,-don't even go there, that's for camper vans not a work van that needs to be kept above freezing overnight.
if you have time research newtons law on cooling whilst, its not exact- it is over 200 years old after all,it will give an understanding how heat and/or lack of it works and then, work it back to how it works with a little bit of heat, the lightbulb moments should then hit???????.
hope this helps.
Thanks some good tips πŸ‘πŸ» I want ducting to split the heat into the cab area as well, as the heating on these vans is naff. Will also de-ice the windscreen on those frosty mornings
 
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