Lines with liquidator

[Dave B]

I could do with a vid on how to mod a standard channel as i was thinking the same, wonder why people don't have issues on a modded standard.

This is how i dogear also

First cut 45° angles on the ends with a vice or workmate and hacksaw

Then file edges smooth

I also file the underneath of the channel where it is cut a couple of mm shorter to avoid scraping

Then dogear like this

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuWbfKzFog0[/media]

Then cut rubber like liquidators

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uC9DXeVYP0Q[/media]

I'm showing Bobs vids as i can't be arsed to do my own

 

[keefo]

Does anyone find at the start of a day the rubber isn't as good until it's been used for an hour or so.........even if the rubber had been used the previous day? The slick, trails etc

 

[keefo]

Anyone

 

[fenderjaguar]

Does anyone find at the start of a day the rubber isn't as good until it's been used for an hour or so.........even if the rubber had been used the previous day? The slick, trails etc

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWEvy_9OhEM[/media]

 

[keefo]

Yeah seen this one before cheers. I've had hand further from glass and rubbers dont rest down on anything overnight, it's almost like the rubbers just need to warm up 1st thing.

 

[Eric Gilliand]

Yeah seen this one before cheers. I've had hand further from glass and rubbers dont rest down on anything overnight, it's almost like the rubbers just need to warm up 1st thing.

I have had these issues especially on colder days. I find sometimes just swapping out for softer rubber helps although having said that Razer Red seems to be pretty much on the money all year round.

 

[rugbywolf]

I wouldn't use an Unger rubber with the liquidator, it might be ok, but it's too short imo. And the guy that helped design it said so himself. I know the Moerman, razrblade and pulex are all the right size.
As for the lines, that's why I stopped using the liquidator. At first I thought it was because the clips push the rubber proud. But it even does it with the clips bent back. And other custom springy dog eared aluminium channels don't do it, even with the rubber pushed proud.

Now I think it's maybe because the clips make contact with the rubber further down, where it doesn't make contact with the window, not just at the tip (like most home made dog ear channels do). I think this might be squeezing water back up to the end of the blade and dragging a line across the window for your next sideways pull, sometimes....

Oh, also, you may notice, if you look at the end of the blade under the dog ear, as you turn the squeegee, it almost pushes the end of the rubber underneath the dog ear. What this could be is that it's making the top of the blade make contact with the window as you turn, and swiping some water off it as you do so. I find the bigger the squeegee angle, the worse the lines are. So for example, 40 degree angle, lines everywhere. 30 degree angle, not too bad as long as I held my hand closer to the window. 0 Degree angle, no lines at all. The lower the angle, the less chance the rubber has of being pushed under the dog ear.

I dunno, it's hard to pinpoint this issue, but there's enough people talking about it for me to know it's not just me. btw, I'm not saying others don't have a technique that stops this. But I've tried everything, and it still does it.

Heavy detergent/clean water may diminish the appearance of the line and make it dry up quicker etc, but I think it's always going to be visible from inside, especially in direct low sunlight.

It's very annoying, but I've abandoned the liquidator for a modified s-channel which is perfect for me now. It works nearly as well at doing the edges and it's much better for blading across open glass. It isn't hard to turn like the liquidator, since it doesn't push the rubber proud and it doesn't leave lines

Well that's interesting, because I have the opposite opinion. When I started dog-earing I found Unger rubbers worked better because they were slightly less wide, and also only the hard ones too. Now I've gone on to Wagtails and Liquidators, I am still finding the Ungers best (for me).

 

[keefo]

Just done a little test on our window between a broken in Ettore rubber and a new one in a liquidator. The broken in one had better results just pressing lightly and left less water trail and the new one pressing lightly left a lot from the middle using same angle & technique. I did find if i pressed harder with the new rubber it was ok.

 

[keefo]

I wouldn't use an Unger rubber with the liquidator, it might be ok, but it's too short imo. And the guy that helped design it said so himself. I know the Moerman, razrblade and pulex are all the right size.
As for the lines, that's why I stopped using the liquidator. At first I thought it was because the clips push the rubber proud. But it even does it with the clips bent back. And other custom springy dog eared aluminium channels don't do it, even with the rubber pushed proud.

Now I think it's maybe because the clips make contact with the rubber further down, where it doesn't make contact with the window, not just at the tip (like most home made dog ear channels do). I think this might be squeezing water back up to the end of the blade and dragging a line across the window for your next sideways pull, sometimes....

Oh, also, you may notice, if you look at the end of the blade under the dog ear, as you turn the squeegee, it almost pushes the end of the rubber underneath the dog ear. What this could be is that it's making the top of the blade make contact with the window as you turn, and swiping some water off it as you do so. I find the bigger the squeegee angle, the worse the lines are. So for example, 40 degree angle, lines everywhere. 30 degree angle, not too bad as long as I held my hand closer to the window. 0 Degree angle, no lines at all. The lower the angle, the less chance the rubber has of being pushed under the dog ear.

I dunno, it's hard to pinpoint this issue, but there's enough people talking about it for me to know it's not just me. btw, I'm not saying others don't have a technique that stops this. But I've tried everything, and it still does it.

Heavy detergent/clean water may diminish the appearance of the line and make it dry up quicker etc, but I think it's always going to be visible from inside, especially in direct low sunlight.

It's very annoying, but I've abandoned the liquidator for a modified s-channel which is perfect for me now. It works nearly as well at doing the edges and it's much better for blading across open glass. It isn't hard to turn like the liquidator, since it doesn't push the rubber proud and it doesn't leave lines

When you say 40 degrees etc do you mean like this

and 30 degrees like this

or do you mean the handle 30 & 40° from the glass. If you mean like the photo's I've found the same.

 

[fenderjaguar]

Yes, I meant the angle of the head from the glass. If you set that moerman swivel handle to 0 degree, the lines probably won't occur as much. There's very little chance of the rubber being pulled under the dog ear at that angle. I've always disliked 40 degrees, in any case. I prefer 30 degrees, and wish they would make 20 degrees. Also 0 degree give you a repetitive strain injury, using it by hand, so it isn't really a solution to the liquidators lines problem.

 


I should also make it clear that people like me and the original poster are talking about lines at the end of the blade, not in the middle of the channel

 

[mark2788]

Yh just occasionally when you turn the liquidator the lines happen, I might try different rubber at some point too, determined to make it work

 

[keefo]

I've just done another test and it makes me wonder why people say put a new rubber in if you're getting lines etc. Just done a window a couple of times this morning with a bedded in Ettore rubber then went inside on both occasions and i couldn't see any lines or one not worth talking about. I then put new Ettore rubber in and there are arched lines all over and had to press hard to get rid of the film/residue. How long does it take to bed a new rubber in for others and in middle of a job you need to change rubbers and this happens is pretty bad.

 

[Eric Gilliand]

I've just done another test and it makes me wonder why people say put a new rubber in if you're getting lines etc. Just done a window a couple of times this morning with a bedded in Ettore rubber then went inside on both occasions and i couldn't see any lines or one not worth talking about. I then put new Ettore rubber in and there are arched lines all over and had to press hard to get rid of the film/residue. How long does it take to bed a new rubber in for others and in middle of a job you need to change rubbers and this happens is pretty bad.

Maybe it's worth looking at how we as window cleaners carry our squeegees. I don't use a BOAB. big Ettore oblong bucket with soapy water and my squeegees and mop and Wag sit submerged the whole time. I don't seem to get the issues you guys are having. The reason I raise this is, is it possible that clips/rubber are being adversely affected by the Boab, or, belt holster or whatever other method you guys use to carry them? Just throwing it out there....e.g. I've found if I jam the handle in my back pocket (yeh yeh, old school I know) and the blade drys out I can have issues similar to this. Generally cured by giving the blade a quick wipe with a damp cloth.

 

[keefo]

I specifically had this rubber sat on a shelf then just on seat in vehicle then straight into channel so it never pressed against anything. Don't you find a new rubber takes time to bed in, apparently the razr red takes longer and have to press harder the first few days, is this correct.

 

[Dave B]

Not for me..razr is fine straight away

I do think after a while it seems to glide better but is perfectly useable

 

[keefo]

I only say that Davey as I've seen on a site that sells it that you can get sway marks and have to press harder & also Polzn said it on one of his vids

 

[Eric Gilliand]

I only say that Davey as I've seen on a site that sells it that you can get sway marks and have to press harder & also Polzn said it on one of his vids

Pssst! IPA.

 

[keefo]

After you told me Eric I've looked online in oz for 5l quantities of this but apparently it's harder to come by because of it's use in drugs over here!!

 

[Eric Gilliand]

After you told me Eric I've looked online in oz for 5l quantities of this but apparently it's harder to come by because of it's use in drugs over here!!

Right. I know in some cities over here you have to sign a register. All good down here though.

 

[keefo]

Just found this in Masters diy though and it says for window cleaning ....what u reckon

 

[Eric Gilliand]

Just found this in Masters diy though and it says for window cleaning ....what u reckon

Nope. That's the old housewives newspaper and maths tale. No slip.

http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/isopropyl-alcohol