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DansClearView

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Hi Everyone
I'd like to get some opinion on what folk would do on my situation.
I've just started establishing a round. WFP & a little bit of trad but I've already hit a bit of a crossroads in terms of how I move forward. I've been using the unger hydro power & big boy backpack only to discover resin didn't last very long at all. Since discovered my tap water is around 214ppm - that'll be why.
My issue is, I'm not really in a position to by a 2nd vehicle, never mind a van & I don't have a garage for tank/ro system.
My plan is to pick up a baffle tank & ro system (probably 2nd hand as I've already spent a lot on new kit, uniform, insurance etc) & keep outside for the time being.

Does anybody have experience keeping the tank outside & any suggestions?

Last one, but of a thicky question to be fair. I've watched a lot of YouTube & read quite a bit but with the ro system, just to purify, not pump, does it just work of the tap pressure like the hydro power or does it need any form of electricity? Couldn't for the life of me see a definite answer.

Thank you all so much in advance. Hope the sun is shining with you
 
Hi Everyone
I'd like to get some opinion on what folk would do on my situation.
I've just started establishing a round. WFP & a little bit of trad but I've already hit a bit of a crossroads in terms of how I move forward. I've been using the unger hydro power & big boy backpack only to discover resin didn't last very long at all. Since discovered my tap water is around 214ppm - that'll be why.
My issue is, I'm not really in a position to by a 2nd vehicle, never mind a van & I don't have a garage for tank/ro system.
My plan is to pick up a baffle tank & ro system (probably 2nd hand as I've already spent a lot on new kit, uniform, insurance etc) & keep outside for the time being.

Does anybody have experience keeping the tank outside & any suggestions?

Last one, but of a thicky question to be fair. I've watched a lot of YouTube & read quite a bit but with the ro system, just to purify, not pump, does it just work of the tap pressure like the hydro power or does it need any form of electricity? Couldn't for the life of me see a definite answer.

Thank you all so much in advance. Hope the sun is shining with you
I should have added, I plan to get a tank transferable to a vehicle when the time comes.
 
I started with a little 150gpd (us gallons per day) ro with a small booster pump as my tap pressure is less than 30psi. I stored the pure in 2 water butts outside. Then I used a small pump to transfer to barrels in my car.
 
Cheers everyone. Yea, live on the England Wales border. Given that I can only fill 100litres at this time, the diesel costs to get to a spotless water supplier would far outweigh any game at the moment.
 
Hi everyone. Still haven't sorted out my ro system (more resin bags ordered to keep me going ?).

Given my lack of electrical/mechanical knowledge, I might have to bite the bullet and buy a new system and pay off monthly.

Anybody any suggestions which to go for? Geographically window cleaning warehouse are my closest suppliers.

Thanks
 

I was looking at this one but you don't need the volume so take a look at their website.
 

I was looking at this one but you don't need the volume so take a look at their website.
fairplay to you for looking for him
 
The first thing you need to do is go to Screwfix or Toolstation and buy a water pressure gauge and check your water pressure.


Sorry, these have double in price since I last looked a year or two ago.

You will then be able to see whether you need to add a booster pump to your r/o.

A couple of water butts as @ched999uk suggests will do fine to begin with. You need them black to stop light getting in and turning the water you have purified green.

Then there is this option.

I would personally consider this as it will give you a big 'reservoir' of water. In the future, you will need to consider a bigger storage tank, unless you decide to process water directly into your van's tank. I still believe I would store water as it's a backup. If you run out of water, then you can't work. (I first started to produce water into my trailer tanks. On a couple of occasions, I forgot to switch the r/o on at night before going to bed = no water in the morning.)

A small 150gpd r/o will do fine to begin with, although I would opt for a 450gpd. A 450gpd will do you for years to come when you have a van, and it will give you enough water to operate as a single operator. (You can always expand a 150gpd to a 450gpd by adding a couple of extra housings and membranes.)


Buy an r/o from a recognized window cleaning supplier. It will cost more but will have quality membranes installed rather than cheap Chinese manufactured ones that aren't as efficient. The less efficient a membrane is, the more resin you will need to polish that water off.
 
The first thing you need to do is go to Screwfix or Toolstation and buy a water pressure gauge and check your water pressure.


Sorry, these have double in price since I last looked a year or two ago.

You will then be able to see whether you need to add a booster pump to your r/o.

A couple of water butts as @ched999uk suggests will do fine to begin with. You need them black to stop light getting in and turning the water you have purified green.

Then there is this option.

I would personally consider this as it will give you a big 'reservoir' of water. In the future, you will need to consider a bigger storage tank, unless you decide to process water directly into your van's tank. I still believe I would store water as it's a backup. If you run out of water, then you can't work. (I first started to produce water into my trailer tanks. On a couple of occasions, I forgot to switch the r/o on at night before going to bed = no water in the morning.)

A small 150gpd r/o will do fine to begin with, although I would opt for a 450gpd. A 450gpd will do you for years to come when you have a van, and it will give you enough water to operate as a single operator. (You can always expand a 150gpd to a 450gpd by adding a couple of extra housings and membranes.)


Buy an r/o from a recognized window cleaning supplier. It will cost more but will have quality membranes installed rather than cheap Chinese manufactured ones that aren't as efficient. The less efficient a membrane is, the more resin you will need to polish that water off.
Quality
 
Thanks all. Somewhere to start. I will locate a pressure gauge but can't say I've ever had any water pressure issues, it blast out the tap as it is and from memory my stop **** isn't even fully open.
Would it ever be a case of too much pressure?
 
Thanks all. Somewhere to start. I will locate a pressure gauge but can't say I've ever had any water pressure issues, it blast out the tap as it is and from memory my stop **** isn't even fully open.
Would it ever be a case of too much pressure?
The only way to find out is to measure it. Water gushes out of our tap, but our water pressure is 55psi atm.

Water pressure and water flow are different things, although related to each other.

 
I worked for years with a 450gpd r/o on 50psi of water pressure. I didn't need to add a booster pump. These were Filmtec membranes, and 50 psi was about the lowest pressure they would work at efficiently, if memory serves me.

I have a 4040 now and still produce water without a booster pump. But I'm using an HF5 membrane, which is the only membrane capable of producing water efficiently at our water pressure.

Our water pressure is 55psi and we get 13 litres a minute of water through the back tap.
 
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Picked a guage up this morning and have a reading off my hose pipe splitter of about 44psi. Couldn't connect directly to the outside tap as the hose has been attached for years and would have caused more problems to try and take it off.

Looks like I'll need a bit of a boost from tap to tank.
 
Picked a guage up this morning and have a reading off my hose pipe splitter of about 44psi. Couldn't connect directly to the outside tap as the hose has been attached for years and would have caused more problems to try and take it off.

Looks like I'll need a bit of a boost from tap to tank.
I would speak to Doug at Daqua and see if there is something he can set you up with. You have your di filter already, so you wouldn't need that. Maybe at 44psi the membranes he sells will work. Instead of a rejection rate of 98%, it might be 97% without a boost. I don't know. It's just a thought.

My membrane on my 4040 is now 11 years old in July and still producing at a rejection rate of 97%. A 6 litre DI vessel of resin last me a year, although I don't do as much work these days as I used to.
 
Right. Got myself a 450gpd from daqua, there is a 1000ltre black IBC on the way, as I said before, tap TDS is around 230, pressure 44. Set the 450gpd up correctly I think, see pic. Flushed it first then started producing pure - seems to be coming out between 5 & 10 tds so not really any need to di?
My main question is, how far should I be turning the flow up? I know with the unger hydro the faster the flow, the quicker it are the resin.
I've a mind if it reads high in the tank, I can pump it through the hydro via the backpack.
 

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